Best Way To Hardwire Tesla Wall Connector with Existing Wires?

[ghsnick!]

I have a 50A GFCI Breaker and a Junction Box with some #6 NMB Wires capped off (Black, White, Red, Bare Copper Ground).

I plan to remove the junction box and mount the Wall Charger exactly where the wires are coming in and feed them through here.

Now, I assume up until I get all the wires into the Wall Charger, I need to leave the big wire jacket on all the wires, right?

Then I remove the big wire jacket and feed the black, red and bare copper ground into their respective sections, right?

Do I simply leave the neutral capped off by itself inside the wall charger?

I plan to remove the 50A GFCI and make it a 50A Breaker now that it’s hardwired.

Can anyone give advice on my plan or if I need to do anything differently?

 

[Sophias_dad]

You should really get an electrician.

You have no hope whatsoever of following the instructions regarding routing given the wire you have available, you need something north of a FOOT of wiring inside the base.

NMB wiring is a sheath enclosing individual insulated(black, red, white) and bare wires. Ideally the sheath is removed just inside the wall connector base.

The black and red wires are already stripped, just remove the cap and jam the stripped section into the appropriate spot on the wall charger base.

Yes, leave the neutral capped off inside the wall charger.

 

[Cosmacelf]

You’re not likely to have enough wire length to reach inside the Wall Connector even after removing the surface mount box. At some point, you’ll have to wire nut those 8 gauge red and black and bare ground wires to longer 8 gauge wires. Yes, leave the white neutral capped.

 

[ghsnick!]

You should really get an electrician.

You have no hope whatsoever of following the instructions regarding routing given the wire you have available, you need something north of a FOOT of wiring inside the base.

NMB wiring is a sheath enclosing individual insulated(black, red, white) and bare wires. Ideally the sheath is removed just inside the wall connector base.

The black and red wires are already stripped, just remove the cap and jam the stripped section into the appropriate spot on the wall charger base.

Yes, leave the neutral capped off inside the wall charger.

You’re not likely to have enough wire length to reach inside the Wall Connector even after removing the surface mount box. At some point, you’ll have to wire nut those 8 gauge red and black and bare ground wires to longer 8 gauge wires. Yes, leave the white neutral capped.

What if I mount where the red star is, remove the wires from the receptacle, and feed the wires through the back around the top? You think I have enough slack?

Also, what happens if I enter the bottom and plug them directly in? Is it required to wrap them all the way around the side once inside the charger?

 

[QtownTaxiGreg]

Dude, this is one of those times if you need to ask you shouldn't be doing the job.

You don't want to get dead.
If you burn the place down you might wish you were.

Get the electrician.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Your picture with the red star is clearly not of the same box as the picture you started with.

Indeed, thanks to google image search, I've found you asked basically all the same questions almost exactly a year ago in Gen 3 Wall Connector Installation Advice

and we already answered them in great detail, and you already (in that thread) had extended the wires up to the new location via a conduit on the outside of your wall!

This is ridiculous.

 

[ghsnick!]

Your picture with the red star is clearly not of the same box as the picture you started with.

Indeed, thanks to google image search, I've found you asked basically all the same questions almost exactly a year ago in Gen 3 Wall Connector Installation Advice

and we already answered them in great detail, and you already (in that thread) had extended the wires up to the new location via a conduit on the outside of your wall!

This is ridiculous.

Sorry, I don’t have enough pictures of the inside outlet, but you’re right, I already had outside done last year. I was simply providing those pictures as I have more images.

The inside location (here) is exactly the same as the outside.

I’m wondering if there’s enough slack to do this without a junction box. I’m also wondering if connecting the bare ground copper from the #6 NMB to the Tesla would be sufficient? I thought it needed to be a thicker ground wire.

 

[Sophias_dad]

I thought it needed to be a thicker ground wire.

Ground wire for #6 conductors actually only needs to be #10, MUCH smaller than #6.

 

[ghsnick!]

I currently have this plastic receptacle box and wires in wall. I removed the outlet and plan to hardwire the Tesla Wall Charger.

Here are the existing wires and plastic box…

Here’s how I’d like to hardwire the charger with a bit of additional wire spliced (in the box) and running a bit of conduit to the charger.

I purchase additional #8 THHN since it’s only on 50A and being charged at 40A. Here’s how I plan to splice and run the additional wire and conduit.

I will connect the wire inside the plastic box with these wire nuts. I plan to drill a hole in this faceplate to cover and connect this conduit/connector. I will secure the flexible conduit in the middle with this and up into the Tesla Wall Connector.

Any concerns or red flags with my plan? I also got a 50A Breaker (without GFCI) to install in place of the GFCI Breaker now that it’s hardwired.

Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jjrandorin]

I currently have this plastic receptacle box and wires in wall. I removed the outlet and plan to hardwire an EV Charger.

Here are the existing wires and plastic box…

View attachment 1040089View attachment 1040090

Here’s how I’d like to hardwire the charger with a bit of additional wire spliced (in the box) and running a bit of conduit to the charger.

View attachment 1040088

I purchase additional #8 THHN since it’s only on 50A and being charged at 40A. Here’s how I plan to splice and run the additional wire and conduit.

I will connect the wire inside the plastic box with these wire nuts. I plan to drill a hole in this faceplate to cover and connect this conduit/connector. I will secure the flexible conduit in the middle with this and up into the Tesla Wall Connector.

Any concerns or red flags with my plan? I also got a 50A Breaker (without GFCI) to install in place of the GFCI Breaker now that it’s hardwired.

Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I merged your new thread you just created today back with this topic since its the same topic.

 

[ucmndd]

Also, what happens if I enter the bottom and plug them directly in? Is it required to wrap them all the way around the side once inside the charger?

What you’re describing works just fine. Ask me how I know.

 

[Sophias_dad]

I will connect the wire inside the plastic box with these wire nuts. I plan to drill a hole in this faceplate to cover and connect this conduit/connector. I will secure the flexible conduit in the middle with this and up into the Tesla Wall Connector.

Any concerns or red flags with my plan? I also got a 50A Breaker (without GFCI) to install in place of the GFCI Breaker now that it’s hardwired.

Drilling a hole in the faceplate may not be approved. I betcha someone makes a prebuilt for that.

That whip doodad is 6 feet long, unless it can be cut down to something like a foot, it's gonna look ridiculous.

Not a big fan of wire nuts for wires this big, but its probably okay. Get enough #8 to do the whole loop-de-doop around the inside of the HPWC base.

 

[ghsnick!]

What you’re describing works just fine. Ask me how I know.

Drilling a hole in the faceplate may not be approved. I betcha someone makes a prebuilt for that.

That whip doodad is 6 feet long, unless it can be cut down to something like a foot, it's gonna look ridiculous.

Not a big fan of wire nuts for wires this big, but its probably okay. Get enough #8 to do the whole loop-de-doop around the inside of the HPWC base.

Ok…I think I have it. Found these threads where people were able to mount it directly onto the receptacle.

Tesla Wall Connector fits over 2-gang US electrical box

TL;DR: Tesla Wall Connector screw holes line up with the holes on a 2-gang electrical box. I recently purchased a new construction townhouse in Seattle. The house had been pre-wired for an electric car charger. The 60 amp circuit was terminated in a 2-gang electrical box. I was considering how...

teslamotorsclub.com

https://www.doityourself.com/forum/electrical-ac-dc/644703-tesla-wall-charger-box-cover.html

Looks like I can use two of the holes on the receptacle and then use to anchors below it. Only issue is I’m entering the box at the top back side here and the instructions don’t have that as an option. I’d also have to go directly to the terminals and could loop around.

Any concerns here?

 

[Sophias_dad]

Ok…I think I have it. Found these threads where people were able to mount it directly onto the receptacle.

Tesla Wall Connector fits over 2-gang US electrical box

TL;DR: Tesla Wall Connector screw holes line up with the holes on a 2-gang electrical box. I recently purchased a new construction townhouse in Seattle. The house had been pre-wired for an electric car charger. The 60 amp circuit was terminated in a 2-gang electrical box. I was considering how...

teslamotorsclub.com

https://www.doityourself.com/forum/electrical-ac-dc/644703-tesla-wall-charger-box-cover.html

Looks like I can use two of the holes on the receptacle and then use to anchors below it. Only issue is I’m entering the box at the top back side here and the instructions don’t have that as an option. I’d also have to go directly to the terminals and could loop around.

View attachment 1040128

Any concerns here?

I think this question has been asked and answered before in this very thread. There should be no problem going directly to the terminals, but don't make the wires any shorter than they are. Leave whatever excess there is(or you can get) in the base of the HPWC. I'm pretty sure the intent of that big loop is to avoid odd stresses and angle changes at the terminal block as the wire temperature regularly swings from 0F(lets say outside, not in your garage) to 160F(in the sunlight after charging at the max allowable current for your conductors for three hours).

If the prior pictures are correct, you should be able to pull another 3+ inches of wire out of the wall without moving the box at all thanks to the electrician putting the proper slack in there. This would allow you to put a proper cable clamp in the back of the HPWC. You could also just remove the box(and fix the drywall) and mount the HPWC up above the current box space.

Another hacky solution is to not have a clamp in the back of the HPWC and still extend the wires as you had described before, which would allow you to get the whole loop in place. I doubt this would be kosher, but whatever.

 

[fholbert]

Seems like a lot of unnecessary work. If it was me, I’d simply pull some new wire.

A pathway has been established, attach some mule tape to the old wire and pull it out. Then pull the new wire making sure it’s long enough to put the wall charger where you want it.

 

[Sophias_dad]

A pathway has been established, attach some mule tape to the old wire and pull it out.

I've never used it, but I'd wager that mule tape won't deal with wire staples all that well and 6 gauge NMB doesn't bend all that well even when you have your hands on it.

 

[ghsnick!]

I think this question has been asked and answered before in this very thread. There should be no problem going directly to the terminals, but don't make the wires any shorter than they are. Leave whatever excess there is(or you can get) in the base of the HPWC. I'm pretty sure the intent of that big loop is to avoid odd stresses and angle changes at the terminal block as the wire temperature regularly swings from 0F(lets say outside, not in your garage) to 160F(in the sunlight after charging at the max allowable current for your conductors for three hours).

If the prior pictures are correct, you should be able to pull another 3+ inches of wire out of the wall without moving the box at all thanks to the electrician putting the proper slack in there. This would allow you to put a proper cable clamp in the back of the HPWC. You could also just remove the box(and fix the drywall) and mount the HPWC up above the current box space.

Another hacky solution is to not have a clamp in the back of the HPWC and still extend the wires as you had described before, which would allow you to get the whole loop in place. I doubt this would be kosher, but whatever.

Seems like a lot of unnecessary work. If it was me, I’d simply pull some new wire.

A pathway has been established, attach some mule tape to the old wire and pull it out. Then pull the new wire making sure it’s long enough to put the wall charger where you want it.

Couldn’t pull out excess wire…it wouldn’t budge.

I finally did it, let me know your thoughts!

Step 1 - Power Off

Step 2 - Remove old NEMA 14-50 Receptacle and start feeding wires through back of Tesla Wall Charger on top of receptacle.

Step 3 - Mount Tesla Wall Charger to wall (bottom two holes to receptacle) and the holes at top with anchor and screws…confirmed wires behind wall were not anywhere near anchor/screws.

Step 4 - Use torque wrench to torque to 50in lbs. Went slightly higher at 55 in lbs. Cap off Neutral by itself.

Step 5 - Remove 50A GFCI Breaker and install a regular 50A Non GFCI Breaker.

Final Installation

Thoughts? My only complaint is there wasn’t enough slack to feed the wires around the right side of the charger how Tesla recommends…but they call it a service loop, so it doesn’t appear to be a safety concern.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Couldn’t pull out excess wire…it wouldn’t budge.

I finally did it, let me know your thoughts!

Step 1 - Power Off

Step 2 - Remove old NEMA 14-50 Receptacle and start feeding wires through back of Tesla Wall Charger on top of receptacle.

View attachment 1041808View attachment 1041809View attachment 1041810

Step 3 - Mount Tesla Wall Charger to wall (bottom two holes to receptacle) and the holes at top with anchor and screws…confirmed wires behind wall were not anywhere near anchor/screws.

View attachment 1041811

Step 4 - Use torque wrench to torque to 50in lbs. Went slightly higher at 55 in lbs. Cap off Neutral by itself.

View attachment 1041814
View attachment 1041812View attachment 1041813

Step 5 - Remove 50A GFCI Breaker and install a regular 50A Non GFCI Breaker.

Final Installation

View attachment 1041815

Thoughts? My only complaint is there wasn’t enough slack to feed the wires around the right side of the charger how Tesla recommends…but they call it a service loop, so it doesn’t appear to be a safety concern.

Looks fine, I wouldn't have bothered to get the white wire into the HPWC at all.

Technically there's supposed to be a cable clamp instead of the conduit terminator in the back of the HPWC(unless you are using conduit to get to it), but you are also supposed to run the cable(not individual conductors) through the clamp so you can clamp the cable in place. I gotta say that the conduit terminator is better than nothing, since nothing would have a good chance of cutting wire insulation over time.

Did you drill your own hole in the back of the HPWC? I see you have screws in both of the intended knockout locations.

 

[ghsnick!]

Looks fine, I wouldn't have bothered to get the white wire into the HPWC at all.

Technically there's supposed to be a cable clamp instead of the conduit terminator in the back of the HPWC(unless you are using conduit to get to it), but you are also supposed to run the cable(not individual conductors) through the clamp so you can clamp the cable in place. I gotta say that the conduit terminator is better than nothing, since nothing would have a good chance of cutting wire insulation over time.

Did you drill your own hole in the back of the HPWC? I see you have screws in both of the intended knockout locations.

Thanks! I left the neutral capped off inside so it was accessible if needed. Didn’t want to leave it in the wall with the only way to retrieve being to unmount the entire charger. Is that okay what I did?

The NM Cable jacket is clamped down in the receptacle box here.

I wanted to pull out more NM Cable so I could feed it through and put a clamp on the back of the Tesla Wall Charger…but I couldn’t get the wire to budge…so I assumed it was better to use the conduit terminal since it was the individual wires being fed through.

I did drill a hole here (instead of the preferred knockouts) to feed the wires through. I needed the bottom two holes in the preferred knockout locations to align the screws with the screw holes on the receptacle box.

All in all do you think everything is safe and legit? I can’t see anything really that sticks out against code…but let me know your thoughts

 

[father_of_6]

I think you did a great job. I'm not an electrician though, so my opinion is worth about 2 cents.