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Best wireless game controller for Tesla games

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do you know if this one will work, its black, and I'd spend the extra 7 bucks just to have it more stealth looking than the grey one.

https://www.amazon.com/MAGIC-S-Wire...keywords=Mayflash+Magic&qid=1570138986&sr=8-3

I'm really not sure but the link you posted seems to be designed for the PS4 (it could still work) but it is $7 more expensive. I tried a bunch of wireless adapters before I found a working combination. If you look at my previous post, you'll see I bought a 90 degree USB cable that I can use to completely hide the adapter by fishing it underneath the rubber mat. You can also hide the adapter by keeping the compartment closed, as that's what I do. I hate seeing wires and things dangling as well. For less than the $7 you save, you can just buy black tape as well and even cover the lights once you get it working! :p

I know for sure the MayFlash Magic-NS controller works with the Tesla games and a wireless XBox controller.
 
I made a small change to tidy things up a bit. My previous setup did not allow the compartment with the USB outlets to be closed because the MayFlash adapters stuck out of the compartment a bit and it also blocked the 12V outlet which I need to use because I use it to power the phone dock.

I wanted to set something up so that everything can be connected and "always on" all the time but being able to close the compartment door so that no unsightly wires or cables can be seen (my original reason to look for a wireless game controller in the first place!).

The key part I needed is a short USB 3.0 extension cable with a 90-dgree left angle connector so that I can plug that into a USB port without blocking the other USB port used by TeslaCam/Sentry while also not blocking the 12V outlet that is used to power the phone dock plus one additional USB device.

The width of the compartment is so perfect that it fits everything snugly with the USB cord wrapped in a loop. At a future time. I'm going to try and fish the USB extension cord underneath the rubber mat, just like the phone connection dock cable but not sure if the wire guide is wide enough to do that but for now the following setup allows me to connect everything so that everything is always online while still leaving one USB port free up front for powering an additional USB device.

Short USB 3.0 Extension Cable, 90 Degree USB 3.0 Adapter
https://amzn.to/2olSxB9

Two USB drives (one for TeslaCam/Sentry and the other for USB audio). I wanted the TeslaCam drive to be plugged directly into the USB port with no hub so it has a direct connection to the car, as that's the most important USB component. The USB drive used for USB audio is connected to the car through the 3 port mini hub.
https://amzn.to/2osV0tK

3 port mini hub connects to 2 MayFlash adapters to be used with 2 wireless XBox controllers plus a USB drive for music.
https://amzn.to/2nNC0Wk

Two MayFlash adapters to connect two wireless XBox controllers:
https://amzn.to/2nOGCeM

And of course the 2 XBox controllers
https://amzn.to/2mXZCrf

Low profile 12V dual USB outlet for powering phone dock
https://amzn.to/2ouKMJp

And finally Tesla sells the cable that allows you to blind holster your phone for charging.
Model S/X Quick Connection Phone Dock

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Excellent post, thank you pal ! Just one thing that I did for myself and thought it might be useful for you and others ... instead of using two flash drives ( and needing 2 ports ), I got a large drive and then created 2 partitions on it. This works great for dashcam and usb music and it’s all on one physical device.

just in case you want to try that ...
 
Excellent post, thank you pal ! Just one thing that I did for myself and thought it might be useful for you and others ... instead of using two flash drives ( and needing 2 ports ), I got a large drive and then created 2 partitions on it. This works great for dashcam and usb music and it’s all on one physical device.

just in case you want to try that ...

I used to use one drive too but I now have two separate drives on purpose :)

In case one drive goes "bad" I didn't want it to take down both my music and TeslaCam. Also I have the TeslaCam drive connected directly to the USB port of the car while the USB music drive is plugged in via the 3 port USB hub so that the TeslaCam drive always has a direct connection to the car, as I want the best possible data connection for the TeslaCam drive.

I also keep a couple of "spare" USB drives already formatted with FAT32 with the TeslaCam folder so that if there is data corruption or other issue with the TeslaCam drive, I have a backup that I can plug right in without affecting my music.

Lastly, I keep a small capacity USB Flash drive so that if I am ever a witness to an accident, I can simply the copy the TeslaCam videos to the small capacity USB Flash Drive with my phone and give it to the police or someone else affected if I was just a witness.
 
So I've been trying to follow this thread, and the other one here. I have a few questions. Is the Mayflash (or the 8bitdo) able to work with a PS4 adapter or Xbox 360 adapter via regular bluetooth on the former or using the PC wireless adapter plugged into the Mayflash for the latter? It sounds like some have had success with the PS4 or a regular Xbox 360 wireless controller in some situations, but I can't tell for sure. I haven't been able to get my PS4 dualshock (new version) to work iwth the Mayflash I have, and I have to us the PC adapter plugged into the Mayflash to use the Xbox 360 controller wirelessly, which is a little bulkier than i'd like. I hear some Mayflash Magic-NS adapters work better than others. (And I have the latest firmware).

Someone also posted a 2.5GHz wireless controller that worked as well. Does this mean it works with just the USB RF receiver plugged into the Tesla or do you still need a Mayflash even in this case?

Thanks for any info.
 
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I read several posts stating that this controller worked in the Model 3. It does not. I'm on software 2020.4.1. What I don't get is, how in the flying hell does it work on some Teslas and not others??

As soon as a game loads the coin button (asteroids, centipede, missle command, etc.) automatically presses repeatedly until maxed out. Then after hitting start, in asteroids for example, your ship spins endlessly on its own. In Centipede your character drifts to the left and doesn't stop drifting. Do not buy this one:



https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X6FMNSV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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I read several posts stating that this controller worked in the Model 3. It does not. I'm on software 2020.4.1. What I don't get is, how in the flying hell does it work on some Teslas and not others??

As soon as a game loads the coin button (asteroids, centipede, missle command, etc.) automatically presses repeatedly until maxed out. Then after hitting start, in asteroids for example, your ship spins endlessly on its own. In Centipede your character drifts to the left and doesn't stop drifting. Do not buy this one:



https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X6FMNSV

It sounds like your steering wheel isn't exactly centered.
 
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I suspect that was the case. But, I swapped that controller for the Logitec F310 and it's working perfectly. My only gripe with the F310 is that it's a bit awkward if you have bigger hands. Feels like it was designed for an 8-year old. :/

I had the same problem. The F310 didn't feel good in the hands. I like the PS3 remotes as well as the XBOX's. PS3 wins for me because they are rechargeable via the car's USB ports and can also be plugged in for wired use.
 
I started with the Logitech F310 but switched to the wireless F710 and couldn't be happier. The dongle it so tiny and it still works with a splitter for for TapTes wireless charger.

Interesting that the dongle works right out of the box on the Tesla but requires drivers for a PC. I love the idea of wireless, but I'd be scared that a Tesla software update could break the wireless connection. Maybe I'm being too whiskers about it.
 
That's a personal choice but if something works over wired then it should also work over wireless. The bit between the dongle and the joystick is just the communication standard. IE IR, RF and then frequency, etc. The coding for the joystick is done in the joystick, not the dongle.

There are exceptions though are things like the Magic and the 8BitDo. The reason those dongles have firmware though is so that it can be programs to convert a joystick of one standard into another standard.

If you're using a regular joystick be it wired or wireless and it works. Then it should never break unless Tesla removes support that standard of joystick.

In my case I didn't want to buy a $50 dongle that just converts formats not support by Tesla into one supported by Tesla. Then pay another $50 for the joystick. Then double it for two. Personally I thought the $50 I spent for two F710 was silly considering how little I'll be playing games in the car. I really can't understand people spending $200 for two dongles and two PS or XBOX controllers.

Plus I wanted a known brand; or at least if these Amazon knock offs were $15-20 and I could get the Logitech for $20-25. And the rubble included on the F710 (absent on the wired F310) along with the obvious wireless it was kind of a no brainer.

If you search far and wide for Tesla joystick reviews there are quite a few people that have the F710.
 
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Hi Folks, new to the club and a quick note.
I purchased my new Model 3 in Feb and it arrived end 3/21.
1. Thank for sharing you’re experiences. I’ve learned a lot here.
2. After reading this thread I tried the following and it worked!
I have an XBox one wireless controller and was able to use it to play all the games in the car using a thicker USB cable. It’s the cable that came with my Samsung Galaxy 5 cell phone. So I suspect you can use any game controller that has a mini USB port but you need the thicker data cable.

Please let me know if that works.