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Buying a used Tesla from an independent dealer

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I’ll try the laptop. Just got frustrated with all the scrolling around the screen I had to do to find stuff.

How can you access Tesla SA lists?

I made a tweak and it might be better in a mobile in landscape but there’s still lots on.

I spent several years doing forensic data investigations, it helps find them without accessing anything more than public web pages and some guess work.
 
Current thinking is to buy a new one - I’m in no hurry and it would sort of guarantee the finance rate, £750 discount and referral supercharging.

My concern is future value. As more and more mainstream car manufacturers start to introduce EVs where will that leave Tesla? A new 75D will still leave me with £35k owned in 4 years time. What if that value bombs??

The other option is to put a deposit on an i-Pace instead..... is that like swearing on here???

Buy the car on PCP. That way if the value bombs you hand the car back and walk away. As long as you have a deposit for another one and can afford the monthly payments you start again. If the car happens to be worth more than the GFV there’s some or all of your deposit. Personally I tend to agree with you, competition and improvements in tech and (in Tesla’s case) build quality suggest to me that the value will depreciate faster than built in to the finance.
 
I was told buying from a dealer was not a good idea. Of course directly from Tesla.

Sorry. Do you mean Tesla advised you not to buy from an independent dealer??

Buy the car on PCP. That way if the value bombs you hand the car back and walk away. As long as you have a deposit for another one and can afford the monthly payments you start again. If the car happens to be worth more than the GFV there’s some or all of your deposit. Personally I tend to agree with you, competition and improvements in tech and (in Tesla’s case) build quality suggest to me that the value will depreciate faster than built in to the finance.

My only concern is the excess mileage charge. I always finance PCP at the lowest semi-realistic mileage figure as generally, I’ve sold the car privately when it’s come to change it and always done OK. I’m als planning on putting in the max deposit to keep the monthly’s down. I’m really concerned what a 2017 MS with about 60-70k miles on it would be worth in 2021
 
My only concern is the excess mileage charge. I always finance PCP at the lowest semi-realistic mileage figure as generally, I’ve sold the car privately when it’s come to change it and always done OK. I’m als planning on putting in the max deposit to keep the monthly’s down. I’m really concerned what a 2017 MS with about 60-70k miles on it would be worth in 2021

The warranty on the drive unit, battery, etc. goes for 8 years, so no worries there. The warranty for the car itself though only runs to 50k, so your last 10-20k mileage will all be out of warranty, and as a private sale, it'd have to be a good price to entice in that case.

Purchased via PCP you get to return it at the end if you want; granted you're unlikely to make any money back, but given the uncertainty in the used EV market and the current changes, you should at least ensure you don't lose too much.
 
I’ve just worked out that the excess mileage charge would cost me £3388 based on potential projected commuting mileage’s. I’ll PCP 10000 miles a year but may well do 22100 miles a year. The finance difference on the higher mileage PCP of 20000 per year over the same period is £4704 plus £588 excess mileage charges. No brainer to stick with the lowest mileage saving £1904.

I’ve decided to lower the deposit too. Keeping more cash in savings.

Looks like a new car order is looking more likely.
 
A new 75D will still leave me with £35k owned in 4 years time. What if that value bombs??

Not convinced about that. So in 4 years time a much better EV is available (better price, and quality, let's say). But at that time there are no second hand vehicles, so yours is the only one available to the second hand market. I can't see the price "tanking". In my case the Pound has fallen so much pretty much all my depreciation has been taken care of ... currency movement may be a bigger factor, particular if the pound strengthens
 
I’ve just worked out that the excess mileage charge would cost me £3388 based on potential projected commuting mileage’s. I’ll PCP 10000 miles a year but may well do 22100 miles a year. The finance difference on the higher mileage PCP of 20000 per year over the same period is £4704 plus £588 excess mileage charges. No brainer to stick with the lowest mileage saving £1904.

I’ve decided to lower the deposit too. Keeping more cash in savings.

Looks like a new car order is looking more likely.

I’ve read of a few others who have done the same calc as you and reached the same conclusion. The numbers stack up but I don’t understand why the finance house would price it they way they have. I would have thought at the very least the excess mileage cost would mean the total cost over the period is the same as if you’d gone for the higher mileage in the first place, and paid the higher monthly repayment.
 
Not convinced about that. So in 4 years time a much better EV is available (better price, and quality, let's say). But at that time there are no second hand vehicles, so yours is the only one available to the second hand market. I can't see the price "tanking". In my case the Pound has fallen so much pretty much all my depreciation has been taken care of ... currency movement may be a bigger factor, particular if the pound strengthens

Lots of variables, and for me that’s where PCP is worth the cost. I view the interest as an insurance risk premium, and either way I’m happy. If Tesla bomb I hand it back, if they are flying I’ll have equity towards the next. Apart from loving every minute I’m driving, the only other thing I need to be sure of is that I have sufficient funds allocated for the next deposit.
 
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OTOH, when I purchased my CPO, the premium I would have paid for the PCP (your insurance premium) meant that in 3 years I would need to sell the CPO for just £18K to come out ahead. That, together with fully functional AP1/auto wipers, larger frunk, free supercharging and data for life, together with the full warranty made to CPO a better deal for me.
 
OTOH, when I purchased my CPO, the premium I would have paid for the PCP (your insurance premium) meant that in 3 years I would need to sell the CPO for just £18K to come out ahead. That, together with fully functional AP1/auto wipers, larger frunk, free supercharging and data for life, together with the full warranty made to CPO a better deal for me.

Its what I did too, but I've never heard free data for life, for the last 2 years to my knowledge its been free data for 7 years from first registration.
 
Wanted to respond to the original question of whether to buy from Tesla or an independent dealer...

Personally I think that the most important factor is whether you can find the car you want with the spec you want at a price you are willing to pay. The best way to gauge what's available is to use this website: Tesla MS and MX cars for sale in the UK

That site is fantastic and will show you what's available, price changes and the cars to avoid based on ridiculous pricing.

I originally purchased a CPO car from Tesla but was so disappointed by its preparation on collection that I declined to take delivery of the car. At that point I nearly stopped considering buying a Tesla at all...

However soon after, I located an alternate Model S through an independent dealer which tuned out to be a newer and much better spec'd car for little more than that CPO car I had intended to buy. I am very happy with my Model S! In fact I absolutely love it and will never buy an ICE car again.

Things to note are that the free supercharging and warranty are transferrable so you shouldn't have any concerns over this point. Also at 50,000 miles it is possible to purchase the same extended warranty for around £1500 (I believe) that you get with the CPO cars. So if the car you intend to purchase is below 50k miles and 4 years old, you always have that option for the future.

If you can find a CPO car at the spec and price you are OK with then buy from Tesla. If you find an alternate from someone who specialises in Tesla's then I would be OK purchasing from them too. Personally I would also be OK buying from a private seller too provided you take the usual precautions when buying any car from anybody.

My advice would be to avoid pre 2015 cars, cars without autopilot, and to ideally choose a dual motor car over the single motor ones and the largest battery you can afford. Avoid high mileage cars because of possible warranty issues. The other options are really up to you. Always buy the best spec'd car that you can afford as it will always be easier to sell in the future.
 
Wanted to respond to the original question of whether to buy from Tesla or an independent dealer...

Personally I think that the most important factor is whether you can find the car you want with the spec you want at a price you are willing to pay. The best way to gauge what's available is to use this website: Tesla MS and MX cars for sale in the UK

That site is fantastic and will show you what's available, price changes and the cars to avoid based on ridiculous pricing.

I originally purchased a CPO car from Tesla but was so disappointed by its preparation on collection that I declined to take delivery of the car. At that point I nearly stopped considering buying a Tesla at all...

However soon after, I located an alternate Model S through an independent dealer which tuned out to be a newer and much better spec'd car for little more than that CPO car I had intended to buy. I am very happy with my Model S! In fact I absolutely love it and will never buy an ICE car again.

Things to note are that the free supercharging and warranty are transferrable so you shouldn't have any concerns over this point. Also at 50,000 miles it is possible to purchase the same extended warranty for around £1500 (I believe) that you get with the CPO cars. So if the car you intend to purchase is below 50k miles and 4 years old, you always have that option for the future.

If you can find a CPO car at the spec and price you are OK with then buy from Tesla. If you find an alternate from someone who specialises in Tesla's then I would be OK purchasing from them too. Personally I would also be OK buying from a private seller too provided you take the usual precautions when buying any car from anybody.

My advice would be to avoid pre 2015 cars, cars without autopilot, and to ideally choose a dual motor car over the single motor ones and the largest battery you can afford. Avoid high mileage cars because of possible warranty issues. The other options are really up to you. Always buy the best spec'd car that you can afford as it will always be easier to sell in the future.

Thanks for the website endorsement and glad its helping folk. One small tweak is that cars delivered after April this year, even if they currently have unlimited super charging, may not have when ownership changes hand. You could buy privately in the hope to get round this, but I dare say as soon as you register it with Tesla to get the app working etc, they'll clobber you.

My moto is below 18 months and 20k miles, buy on price, above that then outside Tesla they need to be a few grand cheaper to be worthwhile, increasing to 5k cheaper as the miles climb.
 
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Thanks for all the replies.

I’ve ordered new today to lock in the 1.5% finance apr.

I’m still a little unsure but have 7 days to cancel if I want to. A new one is right on my sensible budget but I felt this was probably the way forward to get the extras I wanted (air suspension being a big one) and the best warranty coverage as I will be an above average mileage user.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I’ve ordered new today to lock in the 1.5% finance apr.

I’m still a little unsure but have 7 days to cancel if I want to. A new one is right on my sensible budget but I felt this was probably the way forward to get the extras I wanted (air suspension being a big one) and the best warranty coverage as I will be an above average mileage user.

You honestly won’t regret it. Congratulations and enjoy the Long Wait :)
 
I’ve just worked out that the excess mileage charge would cost me £3388 based on potential projected commuting mileage’s. I’ll PCP 10000 miles a year but may well do 22100 miles a year. The finance difference on the higher mileage PCP of 20000 per year over the same period is £4704 plus £588 excess mileage charges. No brainer to stick with the lowest mileage saving £1904.

Thanks for posting this, I do similar miles/yr and went for the 20000 option. It never occured to me to check; normaly the excess mileage is something to avoid. Now, it may be too late for me as my finance agreement has been drawn up and I'm due to pick up in less than 2 weeks, but I might have to email Tesla just to check.

Does anyone have the 7p/mile written in their contract? The only place I can find it is the finance example on the website (which seems to have incorrect info sometimes). And do we know if there is a cap on the 7p/mile, sometimes it increases when you reach a certain mileage.
 
Thanks for posting this, I do similar miles/yr and went for the 20000 option. It never occured to me to check; normaly the excess mileage is something to avoid. Now, it may be too late for me as my finance agreement has been drawn up and I'm due to pick up in less than 2 weeks, but I might have to email Tesla just to check.

Does anyone have the 7p/mile written in their contract? The only place I can find it is the finance example on the website (which seems to have incorrect info sometimes). And do we know if there is a cap on the 7p/mile, sometimes it increases when you reach a certain mileage.

I did read on the FB group (I think) that the 7p is limited and it goes up after X miles. I didn't get a copy of the full contract until handover, which isn't ideal, especially if you aren't happy with something. I'm not on the current deal so can't help you by looking at mine. If I were you I'd get on to Tesla, it's an important decision and you should have all the relevant info to hand before making a decision.