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Sounds like everyone one who’s had fancy cars has had this happened to them. I only owned Toyota’s and Honda’s before my 3 so it never happened to me lol
Tesla quietly (?) reneged on Creating the World’s Best Service and Warranty Program years ago.The lack of a loaner or any rental car replacement is a little disappointing.
This is one thing the Infiniti dealer we go to always does well. I can usually get a loaner for maintenance work, even with my old 07 G35. With my wife’s 17 QX60, it’s guaranteed to be put in a loaner or rental car for warranty work (a few items have come up, nothing major).
Overall this wouldn’t change the car I buy, and I love my model 3, but the additional level of service is great when something does go wrong.
Why do you keep telling people this?I've had my S for 97000 miles now, my old S for 82000, and my 3 for 14000 miles with never any maintenance, never an oil change, never, oh, wait. I did put some new wipers on this winter, nearly a hundred thousand miles. I've had the S in for service ONCE, for a new 12 volt battery, and no Tesla of mine has ever been towed or flat bedded. Tell me about your gas car.
Why do you keep telling people this?
As far as I know, as I pointed out at 2017 Model 3 Reliability you've had at least 3 door handles replaced, something done w/your contactor that someone at Proactive Contactor Replacement characterized as "extensive work" + some other issues, in addition to for awhile taking it in for service "once a month" (per Model s at 40,000 Miles). You got a new inverter and had a clunked fixed per NOOB, Can anyone give an earful on my Tesla S 60 purchase. And, per Is Tesla trying to become the absolute worst service organization?. you paid $2300 for an MCU. Wouldn't be surprised if the eMMC wore out due to excessive writing to flash.
For other maintenance, you've never had the tires rotated or changed?
Hopefully @toolman335 and @M109Rider see the above.
I do find it semi-amusing that people here on TMC will point to problems w/brands that don't have very good reliability (e.g. BMW, Mercedes and Audi) to begin with.
Oof! -_-Why do you keep telling people this?
As far as I know, as I pointed out at 2017 Model 3 Reliability you've had at least 3 door handles replaced, something done w/your contactor that someone at Proactive Contactor Replacement characterized as "extensive work" + some other issues, in addition to for awhile taking it in for service "once a month" (per Model s at 40,000 Miles). You got a new inverter and had a clunked fixed per NOOB, Can anyone give an earful on my Tesla S 60 purchase. And, per Is Tesla trying to become the absolute worst service organization?. you paid $2300 for an MCU. Wouldn't be surprised if the eMMC wore out due to excessive writing to flash.
For other maintenance, you've never had the tires rotated or changed?
Hopefully @toolman335 and @M109Rider see the above.
I do find it semi-amusing that people here on TMC will point to problems w/brands that don't have very good reliability (e.g. BMW, Mercedes and Audi) to begin with.
The lack of a loaner or any rental car replacement is a little disappointing.
This is one thing the Infiniti dealer we go to always does well. I can usually get a loaner for maintenance work, even with my old 07 G35. With my wife’s 17 QX60, it’s guaranteed to be put in a loaner or rental car for warranty work (a few items have come up, nothing major).
Overall this wouldn’t change the car I buy, and I love my model 3, but the additional level of service is great when something does go wrong.
I'm a car guy too and I subscribed to C&D for a long time. I stopped though due to the obvious bias against Tesla. Maybe that is changing but I doubt it. I picked up the last Lightning Lap issue at the Y a while back and the P3D was nowhere to be seen. The best car to come out in the last decade and C&D leaves it out of the LL? I don't trust anything they say about Tesla at this point.
Coincidentally, my 12V battery failed yesterday. I drove into work yesterday morning with no issues, no warnings, nothing out of the ordinary, etc... As I was about to leave, when I opened the driver door, I noticed the window "scraped" as it opened, and I realized it didn't partially roll down like it normally does when entering the car. I thought it was strange but figured it was a fluke.
When I got into the car, I noticed the screen wouldn't turn on, and because the driver door window was ALL the way up, it was literally impossible to close the door. I tried to roll the window down with no luck and no power seemingly going through the button. I then noticed the headlights were flickering on and off, in an uneven pattern.
As I investigated further, I found that I WAS able to mostly roll down all other windows in the car, using their window buttons - but the windows SLUGGISHLY rolled down with obvious electrical issues. What I found strange is every window button worked except the driver's side.
Opening my app, I saw that Xena Warrior Princess would not wake up from sleep mode. I also tried holding the brake and scroll buttons in numerous times to try to force a reboot - no luck.
At this point, I called Tesla Roadside Assistance. They had me try everything I had already tried and then conceded that they needed to have a tow truck pick me up. At that point, I started to notice the smell of rotten eggs/sulfur, and I knew it was battery related (I was just hoping it wasn't my MAIN battery). The sulfur smell continued to get so bad that you could smell it from outside the car, 5+ feet away.
The tow truck arrived in about an hour, got me loaded up onto a flat bed, and took me to the nearest Tesla service center, thankfully 3 miles away. From all the research I had done on my phone while waiting for the tow truck, I had self-diagnosed the issue as my 12v battery going bad.
When I got to the service center, I explained the issues and explained I thought it was the 12v battery. I got to the service center about 1 hour before they were closing. I was certain I would need a loaner and would not get my car back that same night. The service tech told me to go chill in the waiting area as they would see if they could get me my car back the same night.
30 minutes later, he came back with the news that I was good to go! I was honestly shocked. Sure enough, my 12v battery had failed, and they had to swap it out. He also said the battery coolant was low, so they refilled that as well. He noted the low coolant didn't have anything to do with the 12v failing. The tech also noted that more and more Model 3 Teslas have been coming in with the issue, usually between the 12 and 18 month period. I got my car on September 11, 2018 - right in his timeline.
He noted that some people see warnings to get service before the 12v fails, but I had no such warnings. The tech said Tesla is aware that warnings are sporadic and Tesla is working on an update across all models to try to have better early detection of the 12v battery failing so that an owner can get it serviced in time before failure.
I was definitely shocked to learn that a car that runs solely on battery power still relied on a 12v battery that was a single point of failure - but at least I know it now. I figure sharing this might help any of you that might unfortunately - and it sounds like inevitably - will run into this issue at some point.
Other quirks I noticed when the 12v went bad:
-Headlights flickering on and off, sporadically
-Windows rolled down very sluggishly, with the driver side not being consistent
-After 10+ minutes, the driver side window DID finally roll down, as if remembering I had tried to roll it down 10 minutes before
-Yay, I could close the door!
-The stench of sulfur/rotten eggs grew steadily worse
-When I would hold the brake down, it would pump back and forth, almost clicking against my foot, but no respnse
-The car wouldn't wake up in the Tesla app
-The screen would flash the Tesla T for 1 second, as if trying to turn on, but then immediately shut off before repeating about every 10 minutes
My car: Tesla AWD Long Range September, 2018
Interesting about removing the 12v. Would the car just use the big batter or would they add something else?Thanks for providing the warning signs.
Apparently Tesla is looking into removing the 12V from the car. It is small and drives a number of systems and needs to be recharged from the main battery and is a failure point.
Bias?I'm a car guy too and I subscribed to C&D for a long time. I stopped though due to the obvious bias against Tesla. Maybe that is changing but I doubt it. I picked up the last Lightning Lap issue at the Y a while back and the P3D was nowhere to be seen. The best car to come out in the last decade and C&D leaves it out of the LL? I don't trust anything they say about Tesla at this point.
Interesting about removing the 12v. Would the car just use the big batter or would they add something else?