Car Care: Controlled experiment - test gloss and durability of the top paint finishes

[Cirion]

Let's say the durability test shows Glare Professional (or any other contestant) is the one to get. I already have a finish (3M professional) on my car. Do I need to completely remove it so that the new stuff can bond to the paint, as opposed to bonding to the previous finish?

Assuming yes, it needs to be removed, what's the best and safest way to remove it?

Use Glare Knockout to remove any old stuff and to remove swirls and scratches.
It will leave the care shiny and many will think you have used the Polish at this stage...
Then use Glare Micro-Finish to make the paint get a mirror effect...
Then Polish it with Glare Professional.

I polished my 2000 Honda Accord in 2006, and only hand washed it with Glare Ultrawash since.
It's time to polish it again, since I'm way over the 5 year duration on this product.

Every time I wash it, it shines like it was as new car (13 years now).
Well, I do use Glare Sahara every spring to get an extra finish.
The Sahara migth be the one extending the life of the polish (and of course the Glare Ultrawash).

I did my sailboat in 2010, I still dont feel the need to polish it again. And I still get comments on how often I must be polishing it.
It spends all year in saltwater...

Glare will be the only thing protecting my Model S.

To anyone wanting to try this, every product is to be used twice... Read the instructions.
First rub in till it's gone
Then apply like a wax, then polish off.

And one more thing, after 24h you can apply Proffesional polish again for a even deeper gloss.
Try it with the gloss meeter...


On a new car, I would not use Knockout. But the Micro-Finish is nice.

 

[smorgasbord]

Use Glare Knockout to remove any old stuff and to remove swirls and scratches.

Thanks, but I'll pass. I don't want to use anything abrasive on my paint - it's still in too good a shape.

 

[artsci]

Try Dawn. I works great -- i've used it in your situation several times on other cars.

 

[strider]

Try Dawn. I works great -- i've used it in your situation several time on other cars.

Yep, old school blue Dawn is the soap of choice for removing old wax and polish. If something is stubborn use lighter fluid (naptha). I have a can of "3M General Adhesive Remover" which after looking at the ingredients it's lighter fluid in an aerosol can. So even the professionals use it.

 

[Chas F]

Just a little off topic: Whatever the results of this experiment, how do these products play with a protectant like paint armor or XPEL? Do you apply the products to the protected areas just like the exposed painted surfaces of the car? I'm planning on XPEL for the entire hood and doors of my Model S.

 

[artsci]

I let the 22PLE cure for the recommended 5 days but it resulted in no change in the gloss. Will take new measurements for all the products in another week. By then they all will have been outside for two weeks in snow, rain, and some generally awful weather here in the northeast.

 

[artsci]

My next report will be on Sunday, February 24.

 

[UMD86]

I let the 22PLE cure for the recommended 5 days but it resulted in no change in the gloss. Will take new measurements for all the products in another week. By then they all will have been outside for two weeks in snow, rain, and some generally awful weather here in the northeast.

I am really bummed with your results on the 22PLE. I was psyched to use it buy now will rethink that decision. Awaiting more of your findings.
Thanks for your efforts.

 

[artsci]

I am really bummed with your results on the 22PLE. I was psyched to use it buy now will rethink that decision. Awaiting more of your findings.
Thanks for your efforts.

Don't give up just yet. I think the longer term results are what will count. Could be that the 22PLE starts low but ends up higher long term because of durability.

 

[smorgasbord]

Try Dawn. I works great -- i've used it in your situation several times on other cars.

Does it have to be the Dawn brand? Or most any hand dishwashing soap?

 

[William13]

Remember the Dawn and other dish washing liquids will take off the wax. Only use if this is your purpose.

 

[pete8314]

I used Dawn blue to clean down my paintwork, then a 15% IPA solution before applying the Opti-coat. I would have waited for the results of this test, and I'm still looking forward to seeing the long term results, but so far I've been very impressed by Opti-Coat on my wife's car, so didn't want to delay getting it on the S.

I'd imagine any washing liquid will do the job, the cheaper the better, strip away the branding and the various enhancements (anti bacterial, moisturizing etc) and there basically the same.

 

[SByer]

Wow, people still use wax on their cars?

Is there a summary page of this somewhere? I think would be ideal to add to the wiki somewhere. I've been using Zaino, but find it takes me at least 3 coats to get the gloss somewhere reasonable. I can only manage the time once a year.

 

[strider]

Does it have to be the Dawn brand? Or most any hand dishwashing soap?

Well, some soaps have "rinse agents" to help prevent water spots. That can leave residue which could affect how the wax/polish adheres to the paint and you're locking that residue which can affect the finish. Everyone I know recommends Dawn blue as it's known to not have anything else in it. You could try others, just avoid any that have additional "features".

 

[shokunin]

Lot will depend on whats already on the car. For instance, I had put 2 coats of Collinite 845 wax on my parents car. I washed it twice with Dawn and the wax was still beading in many areas. I took 20% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) mixture and that seemed to work, but I didn't use enough towels as I must have "re-wiped" some residual wax back onto the car.

You can test by using a bare hose and pour the water over the paint. It should sheet uniformly, in areas where there are oils and wax, the water will sheet around it. Had to go over it several times to ensure all the wax was gone. If anything that was a testimonial to Collinite 845 wax. Once it was all gone, I put 2 layers of Opti-Coat 2.0. There are also commercial paint cleaners as well as CarPro Eraser to remove oils and wax better than 15-20% IPA.

 

[nleggatt]

Call me crazy, but, what do I do, or is there anything I should do, about small hair line scratches that appear on the car. Like 5 parallel to each other (as though a tiny bit of residue gently scratched the clear coat) or one single line here and there maybe 2 inches long? I know you can polish/wax the car which makes the car really shiny.. but even then if you look close on the car, you can still see the scratch. Can/should this be corrected or should I just stop being so OCD about the car? Is it possible without a crap load of work, to get rid of these micro scratches.

Also, add this to the list of delivery defects, My car has 6 or 7 marks on the roof and read side panels that look like "breath" marks. IE, if you breath on the blue car and get a round moisture spot (fades out after a second or so). They say they are going to try and buff them out.... not so sure about this or if a new paint job is required. Theres actually a bunch of paint marks on my car...

 

[pete8314]

Call me crazy, but, what do I do, or is there anything I should do, about small hair line scratches that appear on the car. Like 5 parallel to each other (as though a tiny bit of residue gently scratched the clear coat) or one single line here and there maybe 2 inches long? I know you can polish/wax the car which makes the car really shiny.. but even then if you look close on the car, you can still see the scratch. Can/should this be corrected or should I just stop being so OCD about the car? Is it possible without a crap load of work, to get rid of these micro scratches.

Also, add this to the list of delivery defects, My car has 6 or 7 marks on the roof and read side panels that look like "breath" marks. IE, if you breath on the blue car and get a round moisture spot (fades out after a second or so). They say they are going to try and buff them out.... not so sure about this or if a new paint job is required. Theres actually a bunch of paint marks on my car...

I have one of those 'breath' marks on my hood, or a smudge, as I've been calling it. Mine is grey, and it just looks like a drip of paint spread on the hood after the main coat was applied...it's still metallic, and almost the same color, just not quite. Initially I'd assumed it was a greasy paw print from closing the hood since its in the right spot for that. Anyway, no amount of buffing will get it out, it's under the clear coat, so is sealed in. I don't think it's worth the pain of a respray, the rest of the bodywork is immaculate.

 

[nleggatt]

I have one of those 'breath' marks on my hood, or a smudge, as I've been calling it. Mine is grey, and it just looks like a drip of paint spread on the hood after the main coat was applied...it's still metallic, and almost the same color, just not quite. Initially I'd assumed it was a greasy paw print from closing the hood since its in the right spot for that. Anyway, no amount of buffing will get it out, it's under the clear coat, so is sealed in. I don't think it's worth the pain of a respray, the rest of the bodywork is immaculate.

Ya, looks like it is under the clear coat. I have 5 or 6 of them, so I think it might be worth a re-spray... not sure what the SOP (Standard Operating Procedure/Protocol) is on that one though

 

[JoshG]

My next report will be on Sunday, February 24.

Eager to hear the latest...
Thanks Artsci

 

[artsci]

Wan't able to take the measurements yesterday but will tonight. Spent most of the day working on my new Model S curbside charging station and owner's manual/document case (more on those later...).