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It was a total judgment call -- just my sense as I studied all of them. I was surprised that I chose the Glare but then I thought that maybe my sensibility was pretty good after all. Remember, the difference in the gloss readings was not that great. So I think the durability question will be paramount.
I now have the test results for the 22PLE VX1 Pro Signature Glass Coat. They're not good. In terms of gloss it produced the lowest gains of any of the products tested. Perhaps because it's a protectorant it will perform better over time. But in terms of gloss it's the worse of the pack. I've added the data to the spreadsheet.
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Artsci, Regarding the 22PLE, did you spot check the others today as well? I noticed reading about the Glare Polish that it said to let it cure 24 hours as well. Just wondering if all the others maintained their gloss at least for the first 24 hours?
Have to say Glare is looking good as is OptiCoat 2.0. (OC has years of verification by guys like you doing real world tests)
Pluses and minuses but with our very soft paint I like the idea of the Glare being buffed *into* the paint and left to harden both.
Have to say Glare is looking good as is OptiCoat 2.0. (OC has years of verification by guys like you doing real world tests)
Pluses and minuses but with our very soft paint I like the idea of the Glare being buffed *into* the paint and left to harden both.
I'm surprised Opti Coat 2.0 scored as high as it did. My entire car and wheels are Opti-Coated and honestly didn't seem like any real increase in gloss to my eyes. I opti-coated not for looks but to have a sacrificial layer for the factory clear. If anything, it makes it easier to wash and hope it will reduce wash-induced marring and swirls.
Babylonfive
Power12
PattyChuck
Model S P100D, Model X P90D
I'm a neophyte when it comes to all the above-and-beyond car care stuff. $10 every few weeks (months) at my local automatic car wash was about the extent of my car care. I want to, because I feel compelled to, take care of my Tesla. If I use one of these products, like Glare Professional Polish, do I use it in lieu of wax? In addition to wax? What's this business about a clay bar? Should I use a clay bar on my car before applying something like Glare Professional Polish?
Polish comes before wax. The general flow is wash, polish, then wax.
Clay bars are used to remove surface impurities from the paint (paint overspray, rail dust, surface contaminants). A simple test to determine if you need a clay bar is to put your hand in a ziploc bag and run it over the paint. If it doesn't feel super smooth, then it's time for a clay bar job. I'm not sure how much the MS would need a claybar job right away as it just came from the factory, but the sandwich bag trick should give you an answer. Regardless, I plan to claybar my car once I get it later this month.
Claybars take some time and patience to go through. Think of the claybar as an eraser. You are going to erase away contaminants from the surface of the paint. However, in order for the claybar to glide across the paint, you'll need to spray a lubricant on the paint to help the claybar pick up contaminants. Best to work in small sections at a time, maybe 2'x2' patches over the entire car.
Yes, and it's inside for that duration. I'll retest at that time. I don't think it will make a difference but we'll see.
Al Sherman
It's about THIS car.
PattyChuck
Model S P100D, Model X P90D
The only thing I've been able to find that compares the two is a posting on a Corvette forum (here) where he says "Apparently Honda is re-labeling it for their dealerships."
YMMV, but it appears they're the same thing.
Al Sherman
It's about THIS car.
Yes I think I remember artsci telling me this a few weeks ago but I couldn't remember for sure. This is the stuff my selected detailer uses exclusively.
Yes, that's the stuff I'm testing. I'd never heard of it so I was very suspicious of all of the claims the manufacturer made about the product. So far so good. They also claim high durability, so we'll see. The panels went through some nasty weather today and that's good.
What's the difference between the two other than price?
Amazon.com: Glare 37411-glr-001 GLARE® Professional Polish - 12 oz. Bottle: Home Improvement
Pro Honda Glare Professional Polish 12 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
Amazon.com: Glare 37411-glr-001 GLARE® Professional Polish - 12 oz. Bottle: Home Improvement
Pro Honda Glare Professional Polish 12 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
EarlyAdopter
Active Member
I had my wheels coated with Opti-Guard, the pro version of Opti-Coat, and think it looks remarkably glossy. More depth than my past attempts at Zaino on my previous car. Surprisingly deep gloss. Also, it sheds brake dust with a simple spray of water.
Even if you prefer to use something else for you paint, I'd highly recommend opti-coating your wheels. Makes cleaning them 10x easier. Even though I don't use the brakes a lot, there's a ton of brake dust still. Cleans up easily, even on the inside rim they are clean. I don't even use a dedicated wheel cleaner anymore.
smorgasbord
Active Member
Let's say the durability test shows Glare Professional (or any other contestant) is the one to get. I already have a finish (3M professional) on my car. Do I need to completely remove it so that the new stuff can bond to the paint, as opposed to bonding to the previous finish?
Assuming yes, it needs to be removed, what's the best and safest way to remove it?
Assuming yes, it needs to be removed, what's the best and safest way to remove it?
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