Car Unable to Charge

[Zuikkis]

Sorry for my late reply, but no - i did not get any information that gives me more clarity if an EU charger is facing the same issue and fuse replacement is as simple as shown in this thread. Though i am one of the few dutch private owners of a model s, so most others will just pay the 2500-3000euro for the charger when it fails. I am not willing to do this before checking the fuse. The EU charger looks different than the US version, and it is based on 3-phase charging, so i can imagine that internals are different. I am planning to open up the charger soon, so far i am charging at 66% of charging speed at 2 phases, which is good enough for home charging. Though i miss the ability to use the single phase 220V socket, which is not working since the problem occured. Apparently the blown fuse is from the phase connected to the single-phase household plug adapter, which i rarely used at hotels to charge.

Replying to old post, but do you have more information now?

I have a 2013 P85+, EU model with twin chargers. Single phase charging is working fine, but three phase charging is using only two phases!

I have so far only tried the included UMC, so it's entirely possible the problem is there and not the car charger.

If fixing is too expensive or difficult, I might keep it as is because even two phase charging is reasonably fast..

In your case, it might be a good idea to swap phase wires around inside the connector that plugs into the car? That should fix the single phase charging for you.

 

[BoMS0914]

Charging issues
I just drove home my used 2017 MS. I had a Tesla certified electrician install my 15-40 outlet which has power. I try charging but I only get the dark blue light at the charging port. The mobile charger only shows a single green light which means it’s ready to charge. Everything is plug made in nice and tight. The Gen 1 Mobile charger is what came with the car. I’m I doing something wrong? Why won’t my car charge?

 

[SSedan]

Is scheduled charging on? What do the dash and app say?

 

[Zuikkis]

I have a 2013 P85+, EU model with twin chargers. Single phase charging is working fine, but three phase charging is using only two phases!

I have so far only tried the included UMC, so it's entirely possible the problem is there and not the car charger.

Replying to my own post..

This is UMC issue. Tried with another UMC and car charged fine with 3 phases. Also with type2 Mennekes cable I'm able to charge at 22kW, or 100km/h..

Sucks that the UMC is so difficult to open. The cable looks like it might have been stretched.. But it seems impossible to replace.

 

[pschubert61]

I woke up this morning and the car hadn’t charged… the charge port had a red-ring when plugged in to my home HPWC. I had thought perhaps I had just not plugged in fully.


I also tried with my UMC once I got to work, and got an “Unable to charge, please close charge port, press brake pedal, and try again”, message. That didn’t solve it.


I rebooted the MCU and tried again. No dice. I can hear the MCU contactors close, and the voltage on the IC starts to ramp up, and then 2 seconds later the contacts open again and the voltage drops to zero. It tries this 3 times and then gives up.


Seeing as how it happens with both my HPWC and UMC on different circuits, I suspect the issue is in the car, not with the external equipment.

Probably charge unit . There are in newer models 2 x 24 amp chargers that allow 48 amps it will cost about 2100$ That was what I paid post warranty.

 

[scaesare]

Probably charge unit . There are in newer models 2 x 24 amp chargers that allow 48 amps it will cost about 2100$ That was what I paid post warranty.

Hehe... you responded to a 4-1/2 yr old post.. but thanks!

Read on and you'll see how it turned out...

 

[terofin]

Hi, my masterchargel HVIL loop is cut. If a put a master to slave, does the charging work up to 40A?
if I remove slave to master, and get the broken one off, it needs reprogramming?

 

[scaesare]

Looks like I get to do this again. Car red-ringed over the weekend. This after only 2 years since the last go-round. And I replaced both fuses last time, not just the bad one.

Well, I suspect it will take me far less time this go-round...

 

[Electric700]

Looks like I get to do this again. Car red-ringed over the weekend. This after only 2 years since the last go-round. And I replaced both fuses last time, not just the bad one.

Well, I suspect it will take me far less time this go-round...

Could it be because of a surge? I've never had the issue you're describing. You may want to try restarting your WC and install a whole-house surge protector like this one:

GE Whole Home Surge Protection Unit-Panel Mount-THQLSURGE - The Home Depot

 

[scaesare]

Sure enough. Lower fuse blown.

Got it knocked out in about 2.5 hrs, including the 10 mins I spent looking for my T20 Torx bit (which I never found). I also spent a few mins re-torqueing all the high power connection points in the HVJB.

So about 1/2 the time it took me last time.

 

[scaesare]

Could it be because of a surge? I've never had the issue you're describing. You may want to try restarting your WC and install a whole-house surge protector like this one:

GE Whole Home Surge Protection Unit-Panel Mount-THQLSURGE - The Home Depot

Yeah, I'm really not sure what the deal is. My line voltage is admittedly on the high side at 246-248 volts. But that's well within the rating of the fuse.

I'm going to keep the current dialed back to 30A for the foreseeable future and see if that makes a difference. That's nearly half the resistive losses due to heat, so perhaps the lessened thermal stresses on the fuses over many cycles will help.

 

[dark cloud]

Could it be because of a surge? I've never had the issue you're describing. You may want to try restarting your WC and install a whole-house surge protector like this one:

GE Whole Home Surge Protection Unit-Panel Mount-THQLSURGE - The Home Depot

I actually just got a power outage yesterday. Car hit a power pole and took the power out for the area for a couple hours. It flickered a few times before going out for good. The car was charging at 48 amps at the time, and it threw the 60 amp ev breaker. The whole time the power was out I couldn’t connect to the car. It never went from wifi to LTE. I turned wifi off in the car and it still wouldn’t connect. I thought maybe something blew in the MCU, but upon rebooting LTE came back. Plugged it back in, threw the fuse back and all works fine, but yeah, I just ordered one of these: Leviton 120/240-Volt Surge Protection Panel-130-51120-001 - The Home Depot
Not sure what safeguards are built into these cars, but Might not be as lucky next time.

 

[Black96z]

So, I’ve replaced the fuse 3 times and it’s blown again. It seems to happen after a heavy rain storm, whether I am charging or not. Don’t know if the rain is actually playing a part or coincidental.

Has anyone looked further into the chargers to see what could be the root cause? I’m thinking about adding a 50 amp breaker and running it outside the charger so I can just click it back on if it blows, but it not sure if it’s running AC or DC through those fuses. They are getting more expensive every time I get one though. This time I am cutting the side of the charger case off so I’ll just have to disconnect the 12v and HV cutoff, lift the seat and remove the fuse.

 

[PWlakewood]

So, I’ve replaced the fuse 3 times and it’s blown again. It seems to happen after a heavy rain storm, whether I am charging or not. Don’t know if the rain is actually playing a part or coincidental.

Has anyone looked further into the chargers to see what could be the root cause? I’m thinking about adding a 50 amp breaker and running it outside the charger so I can just click it back on if it blows, but it not sure if it’s running AC or DC through those fuses. They are getting more expensive every time I get one though. This time I am cutting the side of the charger case off so I’ll just have to disconnect the 12v and HV cutoff, lift the seat and remove the fuse.

Might consider just getting a used charger off eBay and try that before you go adding extra breaker or fuses.

 

[Seagee]

Anyone know if the fuse replacement is possible to do with a Gen 2 charger?

And if so, where I might find similar great how-to instructs?

Cheers and thanks for all the helpful info here.

 

[Temour100]

Hey guys! So I took apart my 2013 Model S P85 with 67,000 miles yesterday (dual chargers) and checked all four fuses in the chargers and they were getting continuity, and I also checked the two more fuses in the high voltage box in the center, and they were also getting continuity. So all my fuses are good?!!! But when I’m charging and idk if it’s me but I’ve noticed that when the temperature is colder out and the battery is cool, the car charges fine and there’s usually no problem (level 2 charging with about 30-32A) but if it’s a hot day it will click on a few times like the video says and then I’ll get a message that says “charging interrupted” on my phone and the red light on the car will come up. This never happens at superchargers and only happens when I use 10-30 charging or level 2 chargers. Never when I use slow regular outlet charging either. Anyone know what the problem could be?? I’ve taken the car apart 2 times now but have still found the fuses to be intact…

Please do let me know!!!!
THANK YOU GUYS!!

 

[Electric700]

Temour, you already have some responses in the other thread here:

Onboard charger’s fuse NOT blown

Hey guys! So I took apart my 2013 Model S P85 with 67,000 miles yesterday (dual chargers) and checked all four fuses in the chargers and they were getting continuity, and I also checked the two more fuses in the high voltage box in the center, and they were also getting continuity. So all my...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[timalpipo]

Hi Guys,
I have a p85+ from late 2014, and it seems that they are on Gen @ chargers.
I have ordered 2 fuses, but I can't see where they are located on the Gen 2? anyone has a clue?
Alternatively I found a pair of used chargers but I'm unsure which one is dead, should I buy both?
Car is charging on Tesla Destination chargers ( despite showing an error) and on superchargers, but not picking on anything else , showing a faulty grid error.
Any help would be appreciated.thanks from Down under.

 

[PWlakewood]

Hi Guys,
I have a p85+ from late 2014, and it seems that they are on Gen @ chargers.
I have ordered 2 fuses, but I can't see where they are located on the Gen 2? anyone has a clue?
Alternatively I found a pair of used chargers but I'm unsure which one is dead, should I buy both?
Car is charging on Tesla Destination chargers ( despite showing an error) and on superchargers, but not picking on anything else , showing a faulty grid error.
Any help would be appreciated.thanks from Down under.

If your car is still charging on destination chargers it’s not a blown fuse since a destination charger is the same as a home HPWC.

 

[timalpipo]

If your car is still charging on destination chargers it’s not a blown fuse since a destination charger is the same as a home HPWC.

my P85+ has 2 chargers, and at the destination, it is charging at 16 amps instead of the 32 amps usually, and showing an error message.
At home, i'm limited to 16 amps, single phase, hence why it is not starting and displaying a message like "faulty grid.." so i suppose that the main charger is not working, problem is , it is not the same model as the one shown in the thread, it is a gen2, hence why i was wondering where the fuses are hidden on this one? Any clues much appreciated.
regrds mates