Charging Adaptors 101

[dronus]

If you're looking to be neat and tidy and wish to mount the UMC to the wall I'd suggest the longer cable (90cm on the link I provided US$95), or $230 on evchargers.com.au because as you can see from mine (30cm) it won't reach the wall with a protruding 5 pin socket. I don't mind mine just hanging there but each to their own.

View attachment 1045568




That is correct.

Can always 3d print (or buy) a base that the UmC cradle (also a separate print/purchase) can sit on to hold it proud of the wall at a similar elevation to the socket and then either clip the flexible cable back or leave it hanging.
A pole mount stirrup might work too, or print something similar


Or extend the cable (get a sparky to do it)

Or, I did see one install where they recessed the socket enclosure into the wall so that the socket plate was just proud of the wall, which gave the UMC enough angle on the dangle to be held in the cradle.
The only bad thing I noticed with that was that, ergonomically it was a PITA to install and awkward to unhook the socket and UMC to put in the boot. But I think it was a semipermanent installation (or ended up being) in the end

I am waaaaay too lazy when I use the umc in the shed and it looks like yours

 

[dronus]

Like this (but different dimensions)

https://www.bunnings.com.au/pryda-post-anchor-full-stirrup-65-x-90mm-m10_p1070039

I could probably weld up something like that custom and produce them…. Hmmm might be a job for this weekend.

 

[Vostok]

I'll just now have to buy a 32A tail for the Tesla UMC - so it'll be something like this :

That’s one weird looking tail with a connector in the middle - I would not want to be using that. It should have one continuous piece of cable no intermediate connectors.

A poster pointed out that the ones made locally can be made with different cable lengths.

 

[MelbMY24]

That’s one weird looking tail with a connector in the middle - I would not want to be using that. It should have one continuous piece of cable no intermediate connectors.

A poster pointed out that the ones made locally can be made with different cable lengths.

It was just an example photo.

The actual 32A tail unit which I will buy and connect to the UMC is the below:

5 Pin | 32 Amp | Single Phase | Tesla Adapter for Tesla Gen 2 UMC Univ

It should look like the below:

 

[MelbMY24]

If you're looking to be neat and tidy and wish to mount the UMC to the wall I'd suggest the longer cable (90cm on the link I provided US$95), or $230 on evchargers.com.au because as you can see from mine (30cm) it won't reach the wall with a protruding 5 pin socket. I don't mind mine just hanging there but each to their own.

The 32A tail I bought is 40cm long, but I won't yet buy a mount for the UMC until it's actually installed, just in case it ends up like yours pictured.

I will however just get a hook to loosely coil the cable.

 

[DeXie]

You're right, Goodwe has a 3 phase charger.

HCA Series

The GoodWe HCA Series AC Chargers for indoor and outdoor use provide various communication options and are integrated with the free SEMS monitoring platform.

www.goodwe.com.au

However its smart/solar charging is via Goodwe cloud (SEMS) which feels gross, compared to local control and/or ct-clamps.

Hi,

I was hoping to find out if anyone has this setup i.e. Goodwe inverter and charger and how are they finding it with the solar only charging option. Any issues or glitches? There are not many reviews that I could find.

 

[gm12]

I've often wondered why Tesla's recommend not to use extension cords when charging using the UMC. Firstly. It's not because extension cords can't handle 10a or 15a continuously. They can.

I figured it out by accident. I'm staying at a Airbnb trickle charging off the 10amp socket in the car port. Last night I noticed on my Tesla app it changed to show 5/5. 5amp draw, from a max of 5 amps! I then charged again tonight and set it to 7 amps before it kicked down to 5. At 7 amps the wall socket was getting warm. So the reason Tesla don't want you using extension cords is because the tail has a temperature sensor at the plug, and can detect if an outlet is getting too hot, and downgrade the amps if it's is. With an extension cord, it won't know the temperature of the socket. Clever.

 

[dronus]

I've often wondered why Tesla's recommend not to use extension cords when charging using the UMC. Firstly. It's not because extension cords can't handle 10a or 15a continuously. They can.

I figured it out by accident. I'm staying at a Airbnb trickle charging off the 10amp socket in the car port. Last night I noticed on my Tesla app it changed to show 5/5. 5amp draw, from a max of 5 amps! I then charged again tonight and set it to 7 amps before it kicked down to 5. At 7 amps the wall socket was getting warm. So the reason Tesla don't want you using extension cords is because the tail has a temperature sensor at the plug, and can detect if an outlet is getting too hot, and downgrade the amps if it's is. With an extension cord, it won't know the temperature of the socket. Clever.

I think you’ll find it has more to do with this.

 

[gm12]

No, an average extension cord won't offer enough resistance to cause a drop in voltage that would effect the UMC. It's the temperature sensor

 

[dronus]

No, an average extension cord won't offer enough resistance to cause a drop in voltage that would affect the UMC. It's the temperature sensor

Short story:
If the wall socket is getting hot when you are plugging your car into it I’d suggest finding a wall socket closer to the distribution board. Especially at an AirBnB.

Using an extension cord to circumvent thermal protection may lead to a fire. It sounds like there is something wrong with that socket or circuit.

Longer story:
A long dedicated 6mm tpi cable run in a house causes voltage drop in a house due to resistance.

An extension cord which has core conductors less than 2.5mm (basically all of them) will offer even more resistance on top of the connections and then the fixed cable run it is plugged into. Putting a sustained 10a load on it will not help the original problem.

I believe the “temperature sensor” is in the UMC end of the adapter any way (my 32a clear adapter has a temperature sensor and it is clearly not in the wall plug end)

The problem isn’t the thermal sensor, that is the thing that’s trying to protect you by telling the UMC to reduce the current It is the symptom, not the cause.

Circumventing electrical safety generally isn’t advisable.

 

[JonDarian]

Excellent summary, @dronus . To be fair, I don't think @gm12 was suggesting the use of extension cords to circumvent safety.

I read it as "Extension cords are capable of carrying the current*. My car was lowering it's charge rate because of heat in the plug. An extension cord would have prevented the UMC detecting heat in the plug, which would be unsafe, that's why Tesla don't want us to use them. That was clever of Tesla."

*You have subsequently explained why this isn't necessarily true.

 

[aceon]

I was surprised at how hard it was to find 1.5 sq mm conductor 10m extension cords! The word “heavy duty” is misused for extension cords too - I think it may refer to the casing not the conductors. Anyway, I wanted an extension cord for the just in case situation but it was not easy to find one with thicker conductors.

I found the brand Ultra Charge have some 10m 1.5mm sq ones eg https://www.totaltools.com.au/10302...-lead-10a-plug-tradesman-xheavy-duty-ur24010t

 

[dronus]

I was surprised at how hard it was to find 1.5 sq mm conductor 10m extension cords! The word “heavy duty” is misused for extension cords too - I think it may refer to the casing not the conductors. Anyway, I wanted an extension cord for the just in case situation but it was not easy to find one with thicker conductors.

I found the brand Ultra Charge have some 10m 1.5mm sq ones eg https://www.totaltools.com.au/10302...-lead-10a-plug-tradesman-xheavy-duty-ur24010t

Correct. Most of the “heavy duty” reference seems to be to do with mechanical protection.
Some caravan spare parts places stock 15A leads with decent conductors. They are not cheap, but cheaper than insurance.

A sparkie could also make up a lead using decent cable.

Just have to remember.. if putting a long lead on an already long cable run inside the house … you get the idea…

I agree. It’s handy to have, but if something is getting hot and the charger is de-rating itself, it’s not really something I’d leave unattended overnight.

 

[Vostok]

Extension leads are not recommended for UMCs because frankly most people aren’t aware of the risks or what’s required so its simpler and less risk to just tell everyone to not do it.

However, getting a lead with appropriate conductor size (e.g. 1.5mm for 10m/10A) is OK… check your AS3008 conductor size calculator

Cable Size Calculator AS/NZS 3008

Cable size calculator for current rating, voltage drop, loop impedance, earth cable and short circuit, based on Australia and New Zealand standard AS/NZS 3008.

www.jcalc.net

But extension lead or not, it is advisable to check whether the GPO the UMC is plugged into is getting warm after 30 mins or so of use, just to make sure.

If every socket in the country was terminated correctly using correct gauge conductors then no GPO should ever get warm. They are rated for continuous draw, unlike in the USA.

But stuff does happen, like nicked, cut, or under- or over-crimped conductors at the terminal connection point, leading to lower cross-section and hence hotpots. That’s what you need to check if you are at someone else’s property before going off to noddy land.

 

[aceon]

Correct. Most of the “heavy duty” reference seems to be to do with mechanical protection.
Some caravan spare parts places stock 15A leads with decent conductors. They are not cheap, but cheaper than insurance.

A sparkie could also make up a lead using decent cable.

Just have to remember.. if putting a long lead on an already long cable run inside the house … you get the idea…

I agree. It’s handy to have, but if something is getting hot and the charger is de-rating itself, it’s not really something I’d leave unattended overnight.

Yes I’ve never actually used the extension cord, and I only got a 10m one, but I’d rather have it sitting in the sub floor for the just in case when away from the city.

 

[gm12]

Short story:
If the wall socket is getting hot when you are plugging your car into it I’d suggest finding a wall socket closer to the distribution board. Especially at an AirBnB.

Using an extension cord to circumvent thermal protection may lead to a fire. It sounds like there is something wrong with that socket or circuit.

Longer story:
A long dedicated 6mm tpi cable run in a house causes voltage drop in a house due to resistance.

An extension cord which has core conductors less than 2.5mm (basically all of them) will offer even more resistance on top of the connections and then the fixed cable run it is plugged into. Putting a sustained 10a load on it will not help the original problem.

I believe the “temperature sensor” is in the UMC end of the adapter any way (my 32a clear adapter has a temperature sensor and it is clearly not in the wall plug end)

The problem isn’t the thermal sensor, that is the thing that’s trying to protect you by telling the UMC to reduce the current It is the symptom, not the cause.

Circumventing electrical safety generally isn’t advisable.

You couldn't have missed the point of my post more.

I'm not circumventing anything.

 

[Vostok]

Yes I’ve never actually used the extension cord, and I only got a 10m one, but I’d rather have it sitting in the sub floor for the just in case when away from the city.

I’ve used my 10m extension lead a few times when on holidays. It is quite handy to have in the sub-boot. Because when you need one, there is no alternative.

 

[gm12]

The UMC, with supplied 10a and 15a tails has a number of protections:

Temperature sensor in the plug to detect poor connections at the socket which lead to overheating at the socket (as explained above).

Low voltage detection in which case it will shut off, which can be caused by resistive loads on the cabling combination (installed and extension cables)

I've used extension cables before. Mainly at caravan parks where you can't park next to the outlet. 10m max. Heavy duty, and avoid leaving it coiled up.

And occasionally at 10a outlets but I always set the draw to 7 or 8 amps at the car.

Common sense. Just remember that if you are using an extension cord you are bypassing thermal protection at the socket, so worth while checking for heat with your hand.

 

[elddum]

But stuff does happen

Like I found at a place I was staying… the socket had corroded and was arcing to the pins of my UMC inside the socket!
Turns out the socket hadn’t been used in about 10 years and the house was by the sea… so plenty of salt corrosion.
Found another socket that was more regularly used and after cleaning the pins on my UMC it worked a treat (no heat or de-rating).
As @Vostok and others have said… for a new location/socket check the socket and UMC after 20-30mins(visual and touch for warmth) and if too warm don’t leave unattended, or better still don’t use!

 

[elddum]

avoid leaving it coiled up.

That is a must!
Should never use an extension lead coiled anyway, let alone with a constant high draw. The EM will create heat and cause other problems