What’s not working for you currently?
If you haven’t already, copy the usb-ids file to var:
Code:
mkdir -p /var/lib/usbutils && cp /usr/deploy/cid-var-files/lib/usbutils/usb.ids /var/lib/usbutils/usb.ids
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What’s not working for you currently?
If you haven’t already, copy the usb-ids file to var:
All; I've been in touch with a local law firm that's been looking at filing a class action case against Telsa to get them to start issuing recalls for this eMMC failure. I've built a small page to start compiling qualified class litigants (Tesla owners) that have paid out of pocket to have this repaired or replaced.
Please visit BRICKED TESLA - Is your Tesla Model X or S not working? If your main 17" screen is dead, you may have a case. to add your name to the list when the lawsuit gets filed. It's in investigative stages now with a Nashville firm that specializes in consumer class actions. I love my Tesla and wished it still worked but my MS is dead as a doornail and Tesla refuses to put in a new MCU on their dime.
Please visit BRICKED TESLA - Is your Tesla Model X or S not working? If your main 17" screen is dead, you may have a case. to add your name to the list when the lawsuit gets filed. It's in investigative stages now with a Nashville firm that specializes in consumer class actions. I love my Tesla and wished it still worked but my MS is dead as a doornail and Tesla refuses to put in a new MCU on their dime.
rxlawdude
Active Member
New member with first post soliciting for a lawsuit. Res ipsa loquitur.
I would rather have NHTSA investigate and issue a recall vs class action. I feel class action is just a scam by lawyers who collect 95% of millions that they win, giving the litigants a measly amount. See the other class action result for FSD issue, where the lawyers kept multiple millions and the owners were left with $27 or so each. I support Tesla despite having this issue myself and believe that this is part of the learning curve. The repair is $500 for an aftermarket fix / $1300 by Tesla. With a class action, you might expect to get a couple of $$, and Tesla set to losing millions to the lawyers, whereas recall will just set back tesla the amount to fix/reimburse a much smaller number of vehicles, costing far less. I know there is some exaggeration above, but it should make my feelings clear on where I stand on this. Due to this, I will not be joining this. But I wish you the best and hope it really helps provide a solution that works for all, not just the lawyers.
Hi, i m french and i just do the same thing for my Tms P85d, 2015, 181000 kms. The prestation was excellent, for approximatelly 350E. Just one problem, my old emmc was so borcken that they can't recuperate Tesla certificate... so i haven't Vpn now. And we try to recuperate ot with multi.com prestation.
Good luck at all, and do it in preventive!
dark cloud
Active Member
Check out this thread for information to restore the corrupt files. I believe it said the fellow who fixed it was from Poland.
Oui i'm doing exactly that. My old emmc is in Multi.com enterprise, now waiting for 2 to 4 weeks
amiral_sub
Member
Tegra board sent monday, received tuesday by the super guys of consolepro Eindhoven. They backed up the emmc before unsoldering it, restored the data on the 16 GB swissbit emmc, replaced the emmc, sent it back a few hours later. They wrote me that they worked on 7 tesla emmc the same day !!! Tegra board received wednesday, installed in the mcu, and everything on place after ~2 hours of work. MCU works flawlessly now!
DO THE REPLACEMENT OF THE HYNIX EMMC BEFORE ITS END OF LIFE !
Yeah, so here is how that's going to work: They will file on our behalf, the judge will rule in our favor, the lawyers will make about 3 million dollars, and we'll each get a check for 34 cents.....
If anyone in the Boston area needs help with theirs, let me know! Am not doing these full time, but happy to help out on weekends/etc.
Credit to you for replacing my eMMC. It's working out great
No. Typically a settlement is reached and all affected owners are eligivble to get a replacement MCU and an extended warranty period. That's the goal. Get Telsa to start a recall and offer replacement MCU's
I'm not a lawyer and thus, not soliciting. I am however interested in getting a CA going to get Telsa to settle and start replacing these MCU's on their dime plus extend a new warranty covering future failures.
I think you are confusing Class Action with a NHTSA Recall. Class Action does NOT mandate a fix. In some cases, the court 'can' order the defendant to take a certain action, or stop certain conduct. But usually it is limited to monetary compensation -- an award of money damages (usually minimal) to each class member, for example. These are known as "common fund" cases. NHTSA recall will force the manufacturer to fix the issue, or if you have already repaired on your own dime, issue a reimbursement. This is what I would prefer, not a Class Action.
PS - I am not a lawyer. This is based on what I have read and understood about class Actions in general and being part of them in the past.
No, a settlement can be reached via a class action, and the terms of the settlement can include Telsa replacing all affected MCU's and also granting extended warranties on the new parts. I've had a MINI Cooper that was included in a class action and the settlement included a new warranty period and free repairs to the engine.
Correct, as you said, it 'CAN' be reached and it 'CAN' include stuff. A class action can also result in product recall. But there is a way to file a defect petition yourself with NHTSA to get them to investigate and issue a recall. A recall from NHTSA 'WILL' force a fix / reimbursement. That should be the 1st step. Class action can come in if it fails.
That's fine and you should do that too. I've seen different outcomes but the government usually takes MUCH LONGER as it's a giant bureaucracy that moves very slowly.
Hey @jarredjohnson , it is TESLA. Named after Nikola TESLA, an electrical engineering pioneer and inventor who passed away about 80 years ago. Not Telsa....
They are individual. I checked using a loaner car a few months ago, and comparing.
They also don’t expire every 24 hours. It varies by how lazy Tesla is or isn’t, at that particular point in time.
dark cloud
Active Member
Just received my Tegra back a few days ago after getting Tony @EV-Fixme to repair my eMMC. I just didn’t want to wait until it got corrupted and getting it fixed by a third party lost some of the app features permanently, and obviously would prefer not to pay $3000 CDN to Tesla plus another $500 for a probable tow bill.
I have had one Spotify connecting error once since getting it back with a fresh 32GB Swissbit installed but other than that Spotify has never worked better. Arcade games don’t glitch, and all mcu operations appear to be quicker.
I will confirm the speedometer displayed mph instead of km, and my car would not charge to the 75% level set before Tegra removal. I tried supercharging and it gave a message stating level set too low, and via a/c you can see the picture below.
I assume my car had a maximum soc level of 21% like some others have claimed; I don’t know as I only drove it once and didn’t allow it to get lower than 46%
What I have not has seen reported is the fact that there were no turn signals. Not just no sounds, or no indication in the cluster, but no signals at all. Given that and the fact that driving in freezing weather with no hvac fogged up the windows it was undrivable. YMMV.
Lastly, if you do this make sure you connect the charger to the battery before mcu removal or just after removal, before you start taking apart the mcu. I removed the mcu at 7 am and by 11 am the car was dead. ( the battery will not charge without the mcu in). I put a meter on the battery terminals and it showed 5.7 V. I thought the car was a 6v system for a minute! My “smart “ charger would not charge it either. It would go for 2 minutes then give an error stating sulfated battery. I had to manually crank it up to 8amps to bring the car back to life and charge the battery. I thought for sure the 12v finally died but Surprisingly the 12v seems to be fine.
MCU should be good for the next 10 years.
I have had one Spotify connecting error once since getting it back with a fresh 32GB Swissbit installed but other than that Spotify has never worked better. Arcade games don’t glitch, and all mcu operations appear to be quicker.
I will confirm the speedometer displayed mph instead of km, and my car would not charge to the 75% level set before Tegra removal. I tried supercharging and it gave a message stating level set too low, and via a/c you can see the picture below.
What I have not has seen reported is the fact that there were no turn signals. Not just no sounds, or no indication in the cluster, but no signals at all. Given that and the fact that driving in freezing weather with no hvac fogged up the windows it was undrivable. YMMV.
Lastly, if you do this make sure you connect the charger to the battery before mcu removal or just after removal, before you start taking apart the mcu. I removed the mcu at 7 am and by 11 am the car was dead. ( the battery will not charge without the mcu in). I put a meter on the battery terminals and it showed 5.7 V. I thought the car was a 6v system for a minute! My “smart “ charger would not charge it either. It would go for 2 minutes then give an error stating sulfated battery. I had to manually crank it up to 8amps to bring the car back to life and charge the battery. I thought for sure the 12v finally died but Surprisingly the 12v seems to be fine.
MCU should be good for the next 10 years.
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