Thank you android04, have investigated 'cos the creak IS from the ball-joint. Am unsure if grease can get under the metal capping before it separates the plastic coating above so have drilled a tiny second hole to relieve pressure. A zerk may only be useful as a reservoir of grease to gradually seep into the ball area (or not) if I can safely penetrate the steel cap. Not sure if jacking up the car body will release ball joint from cap enough for useful lubrication. Could well order spares and fit them after careful investigation.
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Creaking sound from left front suspension
- Thread starter timk225
- Start date
I wanted to provide another data point from Montreal, Canada. (Perhaps one of the saltiest roads in the world)
2019 M3 SR+.
At about 30,000kms (August 2020) I was hearing creaking from the left front. Tesla said the FUCA bushing was seized and replaced the left (1044321-98-G). They did not replace the right but had added grease or something as a preventative measure.
The “G” revision FUCA only lasted 40,000 kms.
I’m at 70,000 kms now; as soon as sub-0degC weather hit us I head the same creaking again.
Tesla replaced both FUCAs and they were revision “J” parts. (1044321-00-J &
1044326-00-J)
They also had to replace the rear fore links (1044427-00-C).
Re-alignment was required, everything covered under warranty.
I’m hoping the “J” revision parts can handle our white roads for a long while, but not confident.
If I hear a creak off-warranty, definitely buying replacements from MPP instead of Tesla.
EDIT: Also, I have been living with heavy plastic rattles coming from the steering column for about a year and a half. Tesla tried to resolve it a while back but I lost hope and put a strap around the plastic steering wheel column covers.
During my last visit, I think it depressed Tesla seeing a big ugly orange strap there and they found the cause.
The wrong bolt was used in the factory so swapping the bolts for the correct one fixed the issue.
I also had some intermittent rattling from the rear. I didn’t say anything during my SC visit but it seems they looked over the entire suspension and interior. They replaced a rear seat latching clip and I haven’t heard the noise since.
My visit at the Montreal Ferrier Street SC this time was quite surprising. I’ve never had a bad experience with them but this time it seems they went above and beyond. Did not have the same experience at the Laval SC last summer.
2019 M3 SR+.
At about 30,000kms (August 2020) I was hearing creaking from the left front. Tesla said the FUCA bushing was seized and replaced the left (1044321-98-G). They did not replace the right but had added grease or something as a preventative measure.
The “G” revision FUCA only lasted 40,000 kms.
I’m at 70,000 kms now; as soon as sub-0degC weather hit us I head the same creaking again.
Tesla replaced both FUCAs and they were revision “J” parts. (1044321-00-J &
1044326-00-J)
They also had to replace the rear fore links (1044427-00-C).
Re-alignment was required, everything covered under warranty.
I’m hoping the “J” revision parts can handle our white roads for a long while, but not confident.
If I hear a creak off-warranty, definitely buying replacements from MPP instead of Tesla.
EDIT: Also, I have been living with heavy plastic rattles coming from the steering column for about a year and a half. Tesla tried to resolve it a while back but I lost hope and put a strap around the plastic steering wheel column covers.
During my last visit, I think it depressed Tesla seeing a big ugly orange strap there and they found the cause.
The wrong bolt was used in the factory so swapping the bolts for the correct one fixed the issue.
I also had some intermittent rattling from the rear. I didn’t say anything during my SC visit but it seems they looked over the entire suspension and interior. They replaced a rear seat latching clip and I haven’t heard the noise since.
My visit at the Montreal Ferrier Street SC this time was quite surprising. I’ve never had a bad experience with them but this time it seems they went above and beyond. Did not have the same experience at the Laval SC last summer.
Last edited:
android04
Active Member
From what I could tell in installing the zerks, your 2nd comment seems to be more accurate: "A zerk may only be useful as a reservoir of grease to gradually seep into the ball area". When you drill into the black top cap, you eventually hit a thin, white plastic liner followed by the steel of the ball joint. I think the joint and liner are tight enough that much grease doesn't get pumped in there (it didn't take much pumping on the grease gun to get to where you feel resistance). But as you drive and the ball joint moves slightly, I'm sure that the grease gets spread around. I did this with the car on the ground and am not sure if jacking up the front end would relieve some pressure on the ball joint + liner and allow more grease to flow in. But if you install the zerks, try having the front wheels off the ground and see.
Have drilled with small carefully angled bit through the steel cap, taking swarf off with a magnet. Application of lithium grease a few days ago is having a very gradual effect on the noise especially when I move wheel from straight. The blob of grease on capping of ball-joint assembly stays in place at road speeds but have just added a little more and put a piece of Gladwrap on top. Chichi is much quieter; still has the occasional creak but not the intrusive noise of old. The ball has a tiny indent and this hopefully picks up a new dot of grease as it passes the hole during manouvres which will move it round. Don't have a jack; sold 'em all when I downsized some years ago. Expected to remain in the clean-hand gang!
Me again; Have considered the suspension and all, and why some creak and many don't. Could it be either; that the rougher side of the road keeps enough lubricant moving around to reduce tendency on driver's side; or; the uca carries no suspension load, rather it maintains the alignment of the vertical axle post (actual title??) on a small 'equatorial' band around the ball. If the camber adjustment of the suspension throws the ball hard inward, that small part of the ball will be being heavily loaded and robbed of lubricant. We are allowed up to a degree of negative camber but mine is only 0.3 both sides. What setting may relieve point pressure on the upper ball-joint and allow any clearance to have an effect? Or will a useful setting tear our tyres out? Just asking.
Now then; a good solid way to end ball-joint creaking. Total time for both sides, well under the hour.
Method;
1. Jack up front of car.
2. Remove wheels.
3. Remove bolt securing each king-pin assembly. Released, the hubs will safely hang.)
4. Unclip antilock signal wires at clips to prevent damage. )Reverse 3 for 4 perhaps.
5. Remove and discard spring rings for boot upper ends.
6. Peel down boots and add as much lithium grease as they and the sockets will hold.
7. Swivel ball-joint in all directions until free and smoothly turning by hand.
8. Refit rubber boots as originally made. Wipe clean.
9. Tie each upper end of boots in position with a plastic slip-tie. (Easily removable if a repeat is needed.)
10 Reverse points 1 to 4, lower car and test drive. Silence guaranteed!
Six months later, 10000km and still quiet! (Thank you Jacko.)
I took my model 3 in for creaking and they are quoting me 1100 to replace all four links. They are saying the ball joints are not the problem. Below is what tesla is telling me. I raised the car myself and just moved around the ball joint to try and get the grease to move around in the ball joint. It worked for. Awhile but creaking came back. I never added any grease to the ball joints. Do you think what tesla is telling me is true?
Attachments
Yesterday, was in slow traffic and took a phone call so the music stopped, that was when I heard a weird creek coming from the front passenger side.
Found this thread, and the video posted on the first page sounds like my problem.
2020 M3LR with just over 20,000 miles. I'm a new owner, bought it with 11.6k miles in Feb.
Put in a service request and will see what happens.
Found this thread, and the video posted on the first page sounds like my problem.
2020 M3LR with just over 20,000 miles. I'm a new owner, bought it with 11.6k miles in Feb.
Put in a service request and will see what happens.
superflyrolla
Member
Sounds like they're willing to put your car on the lift and show you, so have a look and take some pics. Can you be more specific? What part numbers did they quote you?
Tesla calls their control arms "links" in the parts catalog so I think they're using those terms interchangeably. They're not going to replace just the ball joint or bushings for you because it's easier for the technician to replace the whole arm which has new ball joints and bushings pressed into it. $1100 to replace 4 of those is probably fair because they're going to be $200-$400 a piece. Less likely, they're referring to sway bar end links, you could get those for $20 each on Rock Auto.
No they did not replace the control arms. They replaced lateral links. Said my control arms were fine. When I stopped by the shop they had replaced the part already and never gave me a chance to take pics.
Attachments
They replaced the rear traction arms which are prone to the bushing separating from the arm, and the front lateral links, which commonly have torn bushing problems. The front bushings being torn wouldn't really make any noise, but the rear traction arms would definitely creak over bumps if the bushing has separated.
When I first noticed the creaking noise I removed the wheel on the right front and separated the control arm to access the ball joint. I just moved the ball joint in a circular motion to spread the grease. It worked and most of the noise was gone for a couple of weeks then the sound returned but not as bad. That's why i took it in. I told them that but we're insisting it was the links.
It sounds like you'll probably end up back there for the front upper control arms if the sound comes back then
I agree. That's when I will raise hell.It sounds like you'll probably end up back there for the front upper control arms if the sound comes back then
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