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This happened last quarter too. I booked a test drive at the end of June and they texted me letting me know they sold all their demos. I ended up realizing I should just place an order and test drive later if I wanted this thing. I didn’t test drive until more than a month after ordering 😅
That’s what I did, too!
 
Delivery is set for Friday at 11a in Mt Kisco. Uploaded updated insurance info yesterday and reviewed the MVPA today so I’m all set. 4 more shopping days left!

question: I am not yet convinced that I will not use plaid but if I use ACH, how does that work on delivery day? After I inspect the car, I trigger the ACH? It could take hours before the credit hits Tesla‘s bank.
There's 6 pages for me to catch up on so I don't know if this has been answered or not but I didn't use plaid and we paid on delivery day after inspecting the car. You just need to have your account number and routing number. You still have to "go through plaid" but you choose the option that you can't find your bank and then it says to manually enter details then it gives you the fields to enter your details.
The SA will bug you to make final payment before that day. I just ignored them.
 
There's 6 pages for me to catch up on so I don't know if this has been answered or not but I didn't use plaid and we paid on delivery day after inspecting the car. You just need to have your account number and routing number. You still have to "go through plaid" but you choose the option that you can't find your bank and then it says to manually enter details then it gives you the fields to enter your details.
The SA will bug you to make final payment before that day. I just ignored them.
Perfect. Thank you. I don’t have a problem adding my creds to debit my account. All the money management systems do it the same way so it’s nothing new. I only don’t want to pay Tesla until I’m ready to accept the car.
 
Someone here posted a couple weeks ago about buying their Model 3 at the end of the lease. It’s not straightforward but certainly possible. I can‘t recall the all the steps, but I believe a 3rd party dealer first has to buy out the lease directly.

If someone has previously done this, feel free to chime in.
@Forensic it’s a pretty simple process to buy out your lease. I was leasing a 2019 M3 and sold it a week or so ago to a 3rd party dealer. You have two options with a M3 lease: transfer lease to an individual, or sell to a 3rd party dealer. If you want to pull out equity go 3rd party dealer route obviously.
Logon to your Tesla account and click “manage lease” . It will then give you several options, one of them being “3rd party dealer buyout”. Click that and it will generate a buyout quote.
You will fill out a simple 3 or 4 page transfer package with 3rd party dealer info, mileage disclosure etc.
Then, dealer will wire buyout quote/funds to Tesla. (At this point I left my car with the dealer). Once Tesla recieves buyout funds and the signed buyout package, they will overnight the title to the dealership. Once the dealer received the title, I went back to pickup my “equity check”- basically the amount over the buyout quote. They wouldn’t give me the equity portion until they had title in hand.
Overall it was a very simple process that took about 10 days start to finish. Here is the phone number to call if you’d like to speak with an agent to help you : 844-837-5285, option 1
 
Will be 7 years old in December; crossed 100k miles yesterday. It charges to nearly the same rated range as it did new (265 new to now 250s at full but I never "rebalance" and know that number is simply an algorithm and not an indication of capacity.)

The issue therefor isn't the range, it's the charge speeds. I seem to get about 50kw, 1/3 the potential capacity of V2 chargers, while charging on V2. Might be faster by nearly double on a V3 but even then, only at a low state of charge and only for a few minutes. It's an original "A" battery. My 2018 3 charges at lightening speeds in comparison.
Damn! An A pack. That's absolutely amazing! And 100k miles. Wow. Simply wow. The irksome issue is the nerfed supercharger speeds. I imagine even the newest 82 kWh Model Y will also get nerfed over time or after a certain number of DCFC sessions, but hopefully it's has longer lifespan with regards to fast charging capability. I know there are limitations to the physics and chemistry of the batteries themselves, so Tesla needs to play it safe to keep them from exploding or killing themselves, but still.

My basic understanding of measuring battery capacity degradation is that the rated range display is not to be trusted, since some degradation is always hidden via reduced bottom buffer and top buffer. Even with balanced cells and a calibrated BMS. Only way to determine is to painfully drive the car slowly from 100% to below 0% until the car's internal connectors go *clunk* and vehicle stops moving, all the while avoiding high speed and avoiding regen. Then look at actual kWh expended and calculate from there.
 
@Forensic it’s a pretty simple process to buy out your lease. I was leasing a 2019 M3 and sold it a week or so ago to a 3rd party dealer. You have two options with a M3 lease: transfer lease to an individual, or sell to a 3rd party dealer. If you want to pull out equity go 3rd party dealer route obviously.
Logon to your Tesla account and click “manage lease” . It will then give you several options, one of them being “3rd party dealer buyout”. Click that and it will generate a buyout quote.
You will fill out a simple 3 or 4 page transfer package with 3rd party dealer info, mileage disclosure etc.
Then, dealer will wire buyout quote/funds to Tesla. (At this point I left my car with the dealer). Once Tesla recieves buyout funds and the signed buyout package, they will overnight the title to the dealership. Once the dealer received the title, I went back to pickup my “equity check”- basically the amount over the buyout quote. They wouldn’t give me the equity portion until they had title in hand.
Overall it was a very simple process that took about 10 days start to finish. Here is the phone number to call if you’d like to speak with an agent to help you : 844-837-5285, option 1
Thank you really appreciate the info, going to look into doing this.
 
I went and saw SA my car was leaving the factory today, so I hope for my VIN tonight..
I dont get it... i guess it depends on the state... No Sales Advisor can give any info about my car...
I asked on different places and all I received is the same answer. They see the same I see on my page account... so its no way for them to give me any other info...
 
@PhillyGal What is rebalancing??
There's some science behind driving your car to at or near zero (carefully of course) then charging to 100% (which shouldn't be done often) and repeat to "rebalance" the charge across cells. I would advise new owners not to get caught up in this idea because 1 - Tesla's batteries have changed over time and the old wisdom may no longer apply and 2 - Tesla's software manages the battery in very smart ways and user-intervention isn't necessary beyond keeping good charging habits.
Damn! An A pack. That's absolutely amazing! And 100k miles. Wow. Simply wow. The irksome issue is the nerfed supercharger speeds. I imagine even the newest 82 kWh Model Y will also get nerfed over time or after a certain number of DCFC sessions, but hopefully it's has longer lifespan with regards to fast charging capability. I know there are limitations to the physics and chemistry of the batteries themselves, so Tesla needs to play it safe to keep them from exploding or killing themselves, but still.

My basic understanding of measuring battery capacity degradation is that the rated range display is not to be trusted, since some degradation is always hidden via reduced bottom buffer and top buffer. Even with balanced cells and a calibrated BMS. Only way to determine is to painfully drive the car slowly from 100% to below 0% until the car's internal connectors go *clunk* and vehicle stops moving, all the while avoiding high speed and avoiding regen. Then look at actual kWh expended and calculate from there.
Yep, good ole A-pack. The nerfed charging speeds really hurts me for a few reasons: Tesla didn't communicate about it, didn't give us a choice in the matter, and not all of us original owners were millionaires buying the car as a toy (in other words, some of us are STILL paying a damn near mortgage payment for the privilege of a car we expected would continue to operate like it always did.) There have been reports of the throttling being reversed but I'm skeptical. I can't prove anything since I never bothered to study/memorize charge rates in my earlier years of ownership and then stopped traveling as much once I had a kiddo but when we attempt to supercharge the S now, it's painfully slow. Even on a V3 yesterday with a low state of charge.

You nailed it about the rated range display not being able to be trusted. It's simply a calculation of how far the car could theoretically drive on a theoretical road in theoretically perfect conditions. It'll never happen anyway so we needn't concern ourselves with a car that "could go" 265 miles when we bought it new but "only 255" now. Never have and never will drive exactly 265 (or 255 or 245) miles in perfect conditions without a charger. You charge when and where you can, if and when you need a restroom. You might arrive at one charger with 50 miles of rated range left, and another with 150 depending on your trip. It's not something we need to worry about.
 
@PhillyGal What is rebalancing??
Balancing = bring up the voltage (state of charge) of all the individual cells to roughly the same range. Usually cells become imbalanced and voltage deltas occur when the battery is frequently fast charged, or always charged to 80%, or some number below 100%. Basically to balance them you charge to 100%, and let it sit on the charger for another couple hours or overnight. Some say you should never do this unless you're getting an error and trying to troubleshoot a malfunction, since it's kinda bad for the battery.

I think if you get ScanMyTesla and an OBD-II adapter and plug it in to the rear OBD-II port (not the front one under the dash), you can see individual cell voltage readouts, and see individual cell voltage.
 
Hi guys! Been super busy with work and home improvement project for the past few weeks😅.
I can’t go through probably 400 pages and congratulate each and everyone of you who got vins and MY’s delivered. Congrats to all!

My wait hopefully almost over - delivery date set for 9/22. Spoke to SA and he told me that my Y will be off tracks on 9/21.
My plan is to do a full “colonoscopy” before I accept/sign and hand cashiers check. I’ll update afterwards.
You would need an exhaust pipe to do a "colonoscopy" on a vehicle, wouldn't you?? lol. Hopefully that comes across as funny as it did in my head, lol.
 
Yep, good ole A-pack. The nerfed charging speeds really hurts me for a few reasons: Tesla didn't communicate about it, didn't give us a choice in the matter, and not all of us original owners were millionaires buying the car as a toy (in other words, some of us are STILL paying a damn near mortgage payment for the privilege of a car we expected would continue to operate like it always did.) There have been reports of the throttling being reversed but I'm skeptical. I can't prove anything since I never bothered to study/memorize charge rates in my earlier years of ownership and then stopped traveling as much once I had a kiddo but when we attempt to supercharge the S now, it's painfully slow. Even on a V3 yesterday with a low state of charge.
Yeah, this is very interesting. Makes me think that in a five years time, our soon-to-be Model Y could eventually become a putz around-town car, which by then I'll look at replacing my current Prius with a long-range EV, Tesla or otherwise. Some high-mileage Model 3 packs are supposedly getting throttled as well, but those stories seem to be pretty rare still, not statistically significant. Like you said, it can be hard to tell and hard to prove, especially because superchargers speeds are dependent on so many variables. Car shouldn't be too hot. Nor too cold. Can't charge next to someone. Cable handle can't be too hot (use the wet towel trick, learned that one recently).

Have you ever considered just brutally torturing your Model S to push the pack to an early death, and get a warranty replacement? Full disclosure, I just think it's fun thought experiment, but horrible idea in practice.