I had a custom system put in, ~$6k including a forward-facing Blackvue 650 dashcam, here's a picture:
Instagram photo by @long_live_tesla • Feb 12, 2016 at 10:45pm UTC
The box is a custom birch ply (sounds better than MDF or HDF) sealed enclosure. As you can see in the above picture the sub enclosure is a single unit that also acts as a platform to mount all electronics which can be easily uninstalled by removing four bolts and two electrical quick-disconnects (one high and one low voltage). System sounds insane and low end frequency response down to ~25hz.
The biggest hurdle when installing and tuning this system (and any car audio system) is getting the "tuning" part of the process right. If you have generally good quality components, you can make great sound and don't need a lot of hardware. Getting crossover, gain, equalization, and delay settings right for each set of drivers is key to getting coherence, snap, and musicality in a car environment and making the walls of your Tesla come off so the system sounds like you're in a concert hall.
Lastly, the tuning process can be supplemented with a laptop, microphone, and RTA (frequency analysis) application but it won't make the system sound good, you have to use your ears. Most car audio shops will send you home with a sparkly system that has too much treble, crappy midrange / midbass impact, and a thumpy bottom end. Cymbals should sound like cymbals, not a tweeter. A kick drum should sound like a kick drum, not a muddy thumpy subwoofer coming from the trunk of your car.
Gear:
Amp: Arc Audio XDIv2 Class D 5-channel amp:
XDi 1100.5
Sub: 12" Arc Audio:
Subwoofers, ARC Series, ARC 12 | Arc Audio
DSP: Mosconi 4to6:
GLADEN DSP 4to6 / DSP 4to6 SP-DIF
Front doors: Morel 6.5in midrange and tweeter:
HYBRID 2-WAY - Morel
Rear doors: Standard Tesla drivers, audio mostly faded forward anyway.
PS: Beware of getting the basics wrong too, e.g. are all drivers functioning and are they all in phase?
