I installed a Cellink Battery B, which seems to be thicker (D) but has a smaller footprint (LxW) than the B124, in the space under the center console. Access is gained by removing the carpeted side panel in the passenger footwell, and the install area is roughly directly below the phone dock area. I can't guarantee that the B124 will fit here. It's thinner, so it might be easier, and the length is plenty fine, but the width might be too much.
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Hi @K-MTG, I'm thinking about putting my B-124 under the center console as well and adding a relay switch to toggle the dashcam on and off, do you have some more pics or instructions on removing the paneling around the center console to get to that bottom area?
I'm on day 3 of my hotspot being on and connected directly to the TKQA battery. Since midnight last night, it was showing 10% left, and its 1pm right now and it still shows 10%. Not sure if the battery isnt calibrated or what, but it seems like the last 10% is lasting the longest. I'll probably end this unscientific test tonight so it doesnt discharge fully. The hotspot being able to stay on for 72 straight hours is good enough for me
Would love this information too! I don't want to lose storage space and finding easy places to hide the b124 battery would be great.
Unfortunately I don't...should have taken more photos! But it is pretty straightforward...just pull the panel from the lower dash area (straight out).
Oh ok, I assume you need to remove some of the trim around the center console before removing that panel? Also are there any retention clips that I need to be aware of?
Thanks again.
They are some clips so just pull straight out. Probably best to remove the trim around the center console first but not needed
Thanks for all the info, hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to give a shot at this
Took the battery apart yesterday. It did not yield easily.
The top and bottom have essentially a thick sticker which comes off easy enough. then there are 4 tiny phillips screwps on each. The bottom has a metal plate that comes off after unscrewing them. The top is glued on so even after the screws you need to pry and crack out the electronic module. Up to here only took 5 min and can probably be done without destroying anything.
That left just the metal tube with the 4 cells in it. Unfortunately, they really glued those suckers in there. I tried everything to scrape as much glue off as I could but the glue was pretty deep in the tube. In the end, the only way I could get the cells out was to use a dremel to cut the thing in half.
Got the cells out unharmed, but that was quite a process and not for the faint of heart.
Do you have a set of plastic panel pullers? I have set kinda like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Sunplustra...F8&qid=1530050414&sr=8-14&keywords=panel+tool
I got the A pillar off by running one of the panel tools along the gap at the windshield. That will pop the rivets loose. Force required would be directly away from the pillar. There is a strap in there for the airbag, so it won’t come off completely. I can’t remember if ther were two or three rivets on that one.
bollar
Disgruntled Member
zkmusa
Member
Has anyone had issues with windshield glare? I had my 750s installed recently, and unless it's dark outside, the picture that's recorded is essentially white. I've tried to lower the brightness to 1 without any issue. Nighttime or indoors (ie parking garages) has no problem.
It shouldn't be that bad. I have the DR900S and the forward cam has some reflection that's improved with an aftermarket polarizing filter. But even without it, the image is satisfactory and not all white.
zkmusa
Member
Thanks for the response. I was considering a polarizing filter, but considering the amount of glare I seem to be getting, I'm not sure if a polarizing filter would make a difference. Here's a video of the front and the back on the same drive.
Front:
Back:
This car is white, so I'm wondering if that's contributing to the glare. The front windshield does not have any tint on it, but the back has Spectra Photosync 55%. Also, I thoroughly cleaned the front and back of the windshield with glass cleaner and cleaned the front camera lens with a microfiber cloth.
Something is wrong with your front cam. The video is way overexposed which shouldn't have anything to do with reflections, even with a white hood. You said the brightness is turned all the way down to 1, right? You should contact the store you where bought it and show them those videos. That should be covered under warranty if they can't find a way to correct it in the cam's firmware settings.
I attached a couple of images from my front cam without a polarizing filter installed.
(I'm aware the darker screenshot looks like a filter is on, but there really isn't. The difference between the two images are time of day, direction of travel, and internal brightness setting on the cam--much higher in the brighter, much lower in the darker.)
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For anyone else interested in the polarizing filters, don't bother with one for the rear BlackVue cam, at least not the one sold by The Dashcam Store. The angle of the windshield and thickness of the filter attachment it forces the rear cam to angle downward more than ideal so a quarter of the view is the rear deck. It also causes the video to have a rainbow effect in the rear windshield most obvious against blue sky.
The combination that works best for me is a polarizing filter in the front and no filter in the rear. I have no tint.
The combination that works best for me is a polarizing filter in the front and no filter in the rear. I have no tint.
zkmusa
Member
Thanks for your help. I went ahead and contacted the store after I posted the videos, and the friendly folks at The Dashcam Store told me there was an issue with the initial 1.007 firmware that was released. They asked me to reinstall the new 1.007 (6/14/18) firmware. After I did that, the problem vanished, and the front video looks great!
