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DC - DC converter / AC compressor repair

Discussion in 'Model S' started by biotour, Jan 17, 2019.

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  1. sledom

    sledom Member

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    The symbol is on the fuse itself, but I tried with a new meter with the diode checker, no matter how you slice it the fuses are bad. I just ordered a set for 35$, Im pretty excited to find out if this is gonna work I thought this was gonna be an expensive fix, but 35$ and now I know how to do it, Im stoked.
     
  2. sledom

    sledom Member

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    I dont see anything, but yeah Im concerned that the battery is getting too cold without the heater working and now I know the dc-dc wasnt working, the battery heater isnt on. Hopefully it doesnt damage the batteries, my garage has no heat and its been in the low 30's and snowy round here
     
  3. Lasttoy

    Lasttoy Member

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    Hit wrong key
     

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  4. Lasttoy

    Lasttoy Member

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  5. swegman

    swegman Active Member

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    Do a search on TMC for HVAC issues and fuse replacement. I seem to recall the person mentioning that the fuses had s diode indication on them and he made a point if noting their orientation before putting in the replacement fuse.
     
  6. swegman

    swegman Active Member

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    See Check your AC . Start at post number 42. Hope this helps you.
     
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  7. sledom

    sledom Member

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    IMG_2527.jpg IMG_2528.jpg IMG_2527.jpg IMG_2528.jpg IMG_2527.jpg IMG_2528.jpg IMG_2530.jpg
    great thank you!

    I have a few images to share.
     

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  8. sledom

    sledom Member

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    Im going to replace the fuses with a fuse that has a 10Amp higher rating from 40amp to 50amp. Not sure if its a great idea but Im hoping that I wont have this problem again. :)
     

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  9. brkaus

    brkaus Well-Known Member

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    This approach is probably why they sealed it.
     
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  10. PWlakewood

    PWlakewood Member

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    Probably not a good idea since the system was designed to operate using 40amp. Would you replace a 40 amp with a 50 amp in your house without using larger wires? If so then have fun but might want to invest in a fire extinguisher or 3
     
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  11. sledom

    sledom Member

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    If a breaker keeps popping in the house its either to high a load or the breaker is under rated. From what Ive read these seem to pop for no reason, pretty common. Worst case scenario I replace the dc-dc. Best case I dont have to touch it again.

    Im not sure that I am going to go with the higher rated fuse, I ordered both the regular and the next step up which was a 50amp fuse, but I have a hard time thinking that it will lead to a fire, as anything that pulls over 50amps will still pop the fuse. My thinking is that when there is a fluctuation, the fuse will stay intact, all is good.

    Maybe its just asking for trouble?
     
  12. PWlakewood

    PWlakewood Member

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    yes you could be but we wont know until YOU do it! I wonder what gauge wire they used and if it can actually handle the higher loads? Hopefully Tesla overbuilt all the wiring just in case.
     
  13. mongo

    mongo Well-Known Member

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    It could be thermal fatigue versus an actual fault, but if it is a fault, the peak current will be 25% higher with a 50 Amp fuse and/or the fault will last longer.

    Since you were able to get to it once, I'd recommend sticking with the stock value. Also, be sure to put all the insulating paper back intact.
     
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  14. sledom

    sledom Member

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    Good point on the fault lasting longer. THere wasnt any paper other than the far side, which is attached and I didnt want to reomve anything I didnt have to.
     
  15. sledom

    sledom Member

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    HA!
     
  16. swegman

    swegman Active Member

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    Under NO circumstances should you insert a 50 Amp fuse in place of the 40 Amp fuse. Not only could the dc-dc converter be damaged if a fault occurs, it could also result in damage to the compressor and other components.
     
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  17. sledom

    sledom Member

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    ALright so I guess that settles it im gonna use the 40amp fuse and just fix again if it fails. Id rather have the fuse fail than a much more expensive part
     
  18. rooter

    rooter Member

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    First of all, what an ancient looking DC-DC.

    Please don't do this. I understand your PoV but look for the same rating but in a slow-blow fuse. These are common for inductive loads. Slow-blow uses an alloy block rather than a thin wire. It's possible the original fuses are slow-blow and if you replace with regular you'll have constant headaches opening it all up again.

    If a normal breaker keeps popping yes. But these days more breakers have built-in arc-fault and GFI functionality, and those -do- more often pop for no reason. If that happens replace the breaker under warranty.
     
  19. swegman

    swegman Active Member

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    Did the replacement of the fuse fix your problem?
     
  20. sledom

    sledom Member

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    Im still waiting for the fuse in the mail. I dont have anywhere around here that I could find what I needed, they should be here tomorrow, I will know tomrrow. I will be surprised if it doesnt fix the issues.
     

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