The symbol is on the fuse itself, but I tried with a new meter with the diode checker, no matter how you slice it the fuses are bad. I just ordered a set for 35$, Im pretty excited to find out if this is gonna work I thought this was gonna be an expensive fix, but 35$ and now I know how to do it, Im stoked.
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I dont see anything, but yeah Im concerned that the battery is getting too cold without the heater working and now I know the dc-dc wasnt working, the battery heater isnt on. Hopefully it doesnt damage the batteries, my garage has no heat and its been in the low 30's and snowy round here
Lasttoy
Active Member
Lasttoy
Active Member
This approach is probably why they sealed it.Im going to replace the fuses with a fuse that has a 10Amp higher rating from 40amp to 50amp. Not sure if its a great idea but Im hoping that I wont have this problem again.
PWlakewood
Active Member
Im going to replace the fuses with a fuse that has a 10Amp higher rating from 40amp to 50amp. Not sure if its a great idea but Im hoping that I wont have this problem again.
Probably not a good idea since the system was designed to operate using 40amp. Would you replace a 40 amp with a 50 amp in your house without using larger wires? If so then have fun but might want to invest in a fire extinguisher or 3
If a breaker keeps popping in the house its either to high a load or the breaker is under rated. From what Ive read these seem to pop for no reason, pretty common. Worst case scenario I replace the dc-dc. Best case I dont have to touch it again.
Im not sure that I am going to go with the higher rated fuse, I ordered both the regular and the next step up which was a 50amp fuse, but I have a hard time thinking that it will lead to a fire, as anything that pulls over 50amps will still pop the fuse. My thinking is that when there is a fluctuation, the fuse will stay intact, all is good.
Maybe its just asking for trouble?
PWlakewood
Active Member
yes you could be but we wont know until YOU do it! I wonder what gauge wire they used and if it can actually handle the higher loads? Hopefully Tesla overbuilt all the wiring just in case.
It could be thermal fatigue versus an actual fault, but if it is a fault, the peak current will be 25% higher with a 50 Amp fuse and/or the fault will last longer.
Since you were able to get to it once, I'd recommend sticking with the stock value. Also, be sure to put all the insulating paper back intact.
Since you were able to get to it once, I'd recommend sticking with the stock value. Also, be sure to put all the insulating paper back intact.
Under NO circumstances should you insert a 50 Amp fuse in place of the 40 Amp fuse. Not only could the dc-dc converter be damaged if a fault occurs, it could also result in damage to the compressor and other components.
First of all, what an ancient looking DC-DC.
Please don't do this. I understand your PoV but look for the same rating but in a slow-blow fuse. These are common for inductive loads. Slow-blow uses an alloy block rather than a thin wire. It's possible the original fuses are slow-blow and if you replace with regular you'll have constant headaches opening it all up again.Im going to replace the fuses with a fuse that has a 10Amp higher rating from 40amp to 50amp. Not sure if its a great idea but Im hoping that I wont have this problem again.
If a normal breaker keeps popping yes. But these days more breakers have built-in arc-fault and GFI functionality, and those -do- more often pop for no reason. If that happens replace the breaker under warranty.
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