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Dead 2020 Model 3 - outside of warranty
- Thread starter bradknit
- Start date
davewill
Active Member
At this point, I see little purpose in trying any harder to get inside the car or release the charge handle. Even if you succeed, you will still have to wait for a mobile tech or a tow to a service center as the car is almost certainly not drivable. If the Tesla tech breaks something trying to get in, it's on them, but if you do it, it's on you.
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You know what you might want to consider in the future?
SE3XY buttons.
The interface is inside the car on the CAN bus, and you can program a button to unlock the doors or roll down all of the windows - oe a ton of other things. You can leave that button(s) somewhere in your garage.
I don't know - just a thought.
At least you know your CAN bus is alive and that one of the VC's is alive and functioning.
Let's see, let me look up which VC controls the window venting function.
SE3XY buttons.
The interface is inside the car on the CAN bus, and you can program a button to unlock the doors or roll down all of the windows - oe a ton of other things. You can leave that button(s) somewhere in your garage.
I don't know - just a thought.
At least you know your CAN bus is alive and that one of the VC's is alive and functioning.
Let's see, let me look up which VC controls the window venting function.
Gauss Guzzler
Safety Score = 42
The service manual warns that the new battery must be *over 12.6V* at the moment it is installed. Perhaps your battery was a little low and VCLeft is refusing to acknowledge it? Step 1 would be to hit both old and new batteries with a volt meter.
P.S. Did you try opening the passenger side doors after unlocking thru the app? Did you try "starting" the car thru the app? And finally, it may be worth trying to poke the passenger door release button after an unlock or start command, that'd be much easier than pulling the emergency handle.
P.S. Did you try opening the passenger side doors after unlocking thru the app? Did you try "starting" the car thru the app? And finally, it may be worth trying to poke the passenger door release button after an unlock or start command, that'd be much easier than pulling the emergency handle.
When my S's DC DC converter failed, it drained the battery quickly but also many systems would not boot even with a new battery in place because I believe the converter was supplying power beyond what the battery supplied. I worked around the failed converter by connecting a fast battery charger to my 12v battery supplying additional amps to get all the systems operational. I'm not sure this is a great idea for a 3 but for my S:
1. Check old battery and new battery voltage. If low charge, the new battery and try again.
2. If the new battery voltage drops very quickly, suspect PCS / DC DC converter failure. Charge the battery again, disconnect for 1 minute and reconnect. Once you reconnect, connect a fast 12v charger that can provide some amperage. Don't jump the car or use a starter feature, just the fast charge amps ideally in a fairly smart charger.
3. Retry the doors and systems. If this works, I'd guess you DC DC converter / PCS needs service or replacement.
1. Check old battery and new battery voltage. If low charge, the new battery and try again.
2. If the new battery voltage drops very quickly, suspect PCS / DC DC converter failure. Charge the battery again, disconnect for 1 minute and reconnect. Once you reconnect, connect a fast 12v charger that can provide some amperage. Don't jump the car or use a starter feature, just the fast charge amps ideally in a fairly smart charger.
3. Retry the doors and systems. If this works, I'd guess you DC DC converter / PCS needs service or replacement.
SOLUTION - OK. My Telsa is fixed. This is what took place. The point was getting into the Tesla. I had no access so when I changed the 12v battery I couldn't follow all of the steps. The steps missed was disconnecting the HV logic connector located under the back seat because the car wasn't accessible. Telsa could not get out to my location until 3 days later which was today. Once they arrived I explained in detail the problem and what I've done thus far to try to resolve. Tech did say this was a first for this kind of issue which didn't make me feel too good. He started with trying another 12V battery. Nothing. Then we were able to access the car, by going into the app and going under Controls, Vent. This cracked only the passenger windows. I was then able to slid in a slim jim and tap the open button on the inside of the door. The door opened. Then the Tech disconnected the 12v battery and then disconnected the HV logic connector under the back seat and let the car sit for 30 minutes. Then connected both batteries back up and BAM, Tesla came to life. He explained that usually just changing the 12v battery does the trick but with the car sitting over the weekend this may have sent the logic boards for a spin and a total shutdown was required. The key to the repair was the Vent access & slim jim. Without that, the inside of the vehicle couldn't be access to resolve the problem and a window would have had to be busted out.
brainhouston
Active Member
sounds like ur car created just the right conditions to discover a bug n u should be rewarded by Tesla
software update incoming...
Keep in mind that you could have installed s3xy buttons and assigned one to open the door and kept that button in your garage or house. Or a button that pops the trunk or frunk or just about anything else.
No guarantee that would have worked. Of course there are other reasons to justify the buttons, but this one is silly imho.
I dont use them, but understand why some people do. with that being said, I agree with you that this particular stated use case is pretty out of bounds (enough to sound like someone pushing them with a vested interest in selling them).
No idea if thats the case, but this particular use case feels very forced.
Thats true.
I use them for any situation where there is an option I want to use while driving where the option I want to use is at least under 2 layers of menus on the screen.
For example, when I go to the car wash - I use one button to adjust the regen to 0%. I don't like fiddling with the menu while driving. A button allows me to toggle that option without looking at the screen.
I also adjust autopilot settings without having to look at the screen with another button.
I can also do other things (pop the frunk, turn on headlights for lighting my garage, etc.) in the garage without having to have my phone and I don't have a key fob.
