ODWms
Member
Just re read my post. I thought I had corrected this, but I made a mistake on the wh/m I posted. It’s actually 267, over almost 44k miles on my original, 20” PS4s.
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Dialing up to 50 PSI for improved efficiency
- Thread starter Dolemite
- Start date
TomT
Technical Maven
Sorry, but unless you were running extremely low non-stock pressures, going to 50 will produce only a slight increase in efficiency. It is nothing that is even remotely dramatic. I suspect a problem with your methodology...
Yet another vote for a plug kit.
I've posted my tire plug diatribe so many times on this forum, that I don't dare post it again.
I will post one piece of advice, though... keep a tube of rubber cement in your car, too. You use it to lubricate the plug; it makes the tire plug slip into place so easily that the last time my wife found herself with a flat, she just plugged the thing herself rather than have me come do it for her. She said she'd rather plug the tire than put on the spare (in her Sequoia) and knew that I'd just plug the tire when she got home, so she saved us both some effort.
If my tiny 5'0" wife can plug a Sequoia tire...
I've posted my tire plug diatribe so many times on this forum, that I don't dare post it again.
I will post one piece of advice, though... keep a tube of rubber cement in your car, too. You use it to lubricate the plug; it makes the tire plug slip into place so easily that the last time my wife found herself with a flat, she just plugged the thing herself rather than have me come do it for her. She said she'd rather plug the tire than put on the spare (in her Sequoia) and knew that I'd just plug the tire when she got home, so she saved us both some effort.
If my tiny 5'0" wife can plug a Sequoia tire...
adayley
Member
any recommendations on a good kit? there's tons of them on amazon, not sure if any one is better or worse than another.
This thread convinced me to get a plug kit + 12v tire inflator. Figured if I get a flat at night, or out of town, it's a worthwhile form of insurance. This is the plug kit and inflator that I picked. I haven't used either (hopefully never will) - but I picked them based on reviews, price, and size.
Plug kit: (removed by mod)
12v inflator: (removed by mod)
Total came to $42. Just using them once will make it worth it.
=================
(moderator note: affiliate links are not allowed, so were removed. Feel free to re-post the links to the products without affiliate links)
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I bought this plug kit. Same price as above, but with a few more tools & spares, like pliers. Someone else on these forums recommended carrying angled pliers for added leverage.
Boulder Tools - Compact Tire Repair kit with Molle Storage Pouch. Heavy Duty Universal Tire Plug Kit, Easily Stores Inside Your UTV, ATV, Truck, Motorcycle, Overlanding Gear or RV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SBFGMDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CJ0P56W58J13KWYNYP06?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It took me a couple attempts to find a portable inflator that didn’t blow the cigarette lighter e-fuse. I ended up with a 10A 12VDC Kobalt inflator that can also plug into 120VAC.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-DC-...Inflator-Power-Source-Car-Electric/1000092575
Sorry about the giant URLs!
Boulder Tools - Compact Tire Repair kit with Molle Storage Pouch. Heavy Duty Universal Tire Plug Kit, Easily Stores Inside Your UTV, ATV, Truck, Motorcycle, Overlanding Gear or RV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SBFGMDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CJ0P56W58J13KWYNYP06?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It took me a couple attempts to find a portable inflator that didn’t blow the cigarette lighter e-fuse. I ended up with a 10A 12VDC Kobalt inflator that can also plug into 120VAC.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-DC-...Inflator-Power-Source-Car-Electric/1000092575
Sorry about the giant URLs!
I have this one from Amazon.
Extra plugs if needed.
I have the Milwaukee M12 inflator because I have other M12 tools.
Good grief at that URL!
I cannot find out what an affiliate link is. Anyone care to explain? And why is it a bad thing?
Extra plugs if needed.
I have the Milwaukee M12 inflator because I have other M12 tools.
Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Electric Portable Inflator (Tool-Only) 2475-20 - The Home Depot
FASTEST CORDLESS TIRE INFLATOR. The MILWAUKEE® M12™ Compact Inflator delivers fast, accurate, easy inflation with the portability to take anywhere. With the capability to complete demanding applications
www.homedepot.com
I cannot find out what an affiliate link is. Anyone care to explain? And why is it a bad thing?
Candleflame
Active Member
Anyone can become an Amazon Affiliate. After you do so, you link to products on Amazon using a URL that embeds your Affiliate account information. You then receive between 5%-10% commission on any purchases made by people who use your affiliate link for the purchase.
Any URL that has "amzn.to" in it is an affiliate link. Also links that have a "?tag=xxx" where xxx is either the referring site or the affiliate account. If the link has "?tag=tmc064-20" in it, it is NOT an affiliate link; it's just a way for Amazon to keep track of the site that referred the user to Amazon.
7k @ 300 wh/m here. I drive 80/90mph and have plenty of quick pulls throughout my day.
Take advantage of downhill-regen-braking and don't accelerate uphill or go fast off the line.
With a steep enough downhill you can keep your speed constant and ride on regen green bar until the road flattens out.
Accelerating uphill will consume more watts than needed.
Fast from a stand still probably drains the most watts, car is heavy.
Most of my days end at 270-280wh/m, I drive 50-110 miles daily.
I've noticed using autopilot consumed way more wh/m than if I were driving myself.
I've started to gradually accelerate rather than stomping on the pedal, car is still fast and my neck appreciates it. Fudge, am I getting old?
So accelerating fast or slow does not make a difference because the car is heavy. Energy put into the car's motion is returned (mostly) when decelerating regardless of how fast you accelerate or decelerate.. But when you accelerate hard, more Amps is drawn increasing heating losses from the battery, wiring, invertor and motor. Similarly there are more losses when using max regen. I've not seen a rigorous analysis but intuition says that accelerating slowly and decelerating slowly (while staying with the traffic flow as much as possible) will produce the most efficiency.
I wouldn't use rubber cement on your wife's plug. I'm sure there are better ways to get the plug in.Yet another vote for a plug kit.
I've posted my tire plug diatribe so many times on this forum, that I don't dare post it again.
I will post one piece of advice, though... keep a tube of rubber cement in your car, too. You use it to lubricate the plug; it makes the tire plug slip into place so easily that the last time my wife found herself with a flat, she just plugged the thing herself rather than have me come do it for her. She said she'd rather plug the tire than put on the spare (in her Sequoia) and knew that I'd just plug the tire when she got home, so she saved us both some effort.
If my tiny 5'0" wife can plug a Sequoia tire...
Wouldn't the rubber cement dry up if you don't use it after awhile?
Just to expand on the rubber cement with plugs a bit...
Back in the '70's (and I'm sure before that, too), plug kits often came with a tube of rubber cement. Now it most likely wasn't the same as what you think of when you think about today's rubber cement. It's VOC content was *huge*, and it partially melted the tire plug and the rubber surrounding the tire, too, once it was placed. You needed to wait ten minutes after plugging a tire with a plug and the included cement for the rubber cement to chemically melt the plug a little bit, and also to melt the surrounding tire rubber a little bit. After the solvents flashed off, the rubbers would be literally fused together; they were chemically "welded". In these kits, the plugs were literally little strings of tire material. And I do mean little... they were very, very thin strings that you just bunched together in a size big enough to be a tight fit in the hole you were plugging. The included "cement" welded the whole bundle together into a solid blob of rubber after it was placed in the tire.
Sometime in the 80's, that particular rubber cement product was no longer included in plug kits. Plugs morphed into what you get today... Self adhesive plugs that are larger in diameter, and aren't nearly as good at plugging large holes like their predecessors were. And they became *much* harder to place, as they're inserted dry.
As you can probably imagine, patch kits are a farmer's best friend, and I learned the rubber cement trick from a farmer friend when the kits changed over in the '80's. Been using it ever since, with zero problems. The amount of residual rubber cement left in the interface between the tire and the plug is so little that it doesn't cause any problems with the plug's built in adhesive. The majority of the rubber cement ends up on the outside of the tire, and makes a nice little extra seal around the plug/tire interface. It's not uncommon for that blob of rubber cement to eventually come off, but it isn't a necessary component anyway, and your plug will stay nice and sound after the blob of rubber cement comes off.
Back in the '70's (and I'm sure before that, too), plug kits often came with a tube of rubber cement. Now it most likely wasn't the same as what you think of when you think about today's rubber cement. It's VOC content was *huge*, and it partially melted the tire plug and the rubber surrounding the tire, too, once it was placed. You needed to wait ten minutes after plugging a tire with a plug and the included cement for the rubber cement to chemically melt the plug a little bit, and also to melt the surrounding tire rubber a little bit. After the solvents flashed off, the rubbers would be literally fused together; they were chemically "welded". In these kits, the plugs were literally little strings of tire material. And I do mean little... they were very, very thin strings that you just bunched together in a size big enough to be a tight fit in the hole you were plugging. The included "cement" welded the whole bundle together into a solid blob of rubber after it was placed in the tire.
Sometime in the 80's, that particular rubber cement product was no longer included in plug kits. Plugs morphed into what you get today... Self adhesive plugs that are larger in diameter, and aren't nearly as good at plugging large holes like their predecessors were. And they became *much* harder to place, as they're inserted dry.
As you can probably imagine, patch kits are a farmer's best friend, and I learned the rubber cement trick from a farmer friend when the kits changed over in the '80's. Been using it ever since, with zero problems. The amount of residual rubber cement left in the interface between the tire and the plug is so little that it doesn't cause any problems with the plug's built in adhesive. The majority of the rubber cement ends up on the outside of the tire, and makes a nice little extra seal around the plug/tire interface. It's not uncommon for that blob of rubber cement to eventually come off, but it isn't a necessary component anyway, and your plug will stay nice and sound after the blob of rubber cement comes off.
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Plugs are considered a permanent repair, but many tire shops like to try and persuade people that they aren't so that they can make the income of patching the (already fixed) tire.
I can't speak to the road hazard warranty, as I never bother with them.
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