Where did you get the sizing for the fronts? I thought they were 175-55-R16.
Unfortunately TireRack only shows the Advan AD07s.
There are a lot more options for the rears though in the stock size.
Also, what about plus sizing the fronts to 17s?
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Where did you get the sizing for the fronts? I thought they were 175-55-R16.
Unfortunately TireRack only shows the Advan AD07s.
There are a lot more options for the rears though in the stock size.
Also, what about plus sizing the fronts to 17s?
The sport model has those wider front tires...
http://www2.yokohama-online.com/gb/files/Downloads/10_PCR_engl_finaleAnsicht.pdf
http://www2.yokohama-online.com/gb/tyre-products.php?g=475
http://www2.yokohama-online.com/gb/files/Downloads/10_PCR_engl_finaleAnsicht.pdf
http://www2.yokohama-online.com/gb/tyre-products.php?g=475
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Ah thanks TEG, I stand corrected yet again!:redface:
I guess going up to 17s in the front isn't the best idea too unless you want to order another pair from Tesla or go aftermarket. A set of OZ Ultraleggeras or Enkei RPF1s sound tempting in reducing unsprung weight. Of course this goes back to the original dilemma of calling to question Tesla's motives and research.
On that note:
- Does anyone know the current bolt pattern and offsets for the front and rears?
- For fun, anyone try to weigh the wheel and tire together?
I guess going up to 17s in the front isn't the best idea too unless you want to order another pair from Tesla or go aftermarket. A set of OZ Ultraleggeras or Enkei RPF1s sound tempting in reducing unsprung weight. Of course this goes back to the original dilemma of calling to question Tesla's motives and research.
On that note:
- Does anyone know the current bolt pattern and offsets for the front and rears?
- For fun, anyone try to weigh the wheel and tire together?
Yes you are right, but I was trying to elude to the notion of reducing unsprung weight as much as possible. Asides from a less smooth ride are there any negatives to opting for light weight wheels? The Ultraleggera and RPF1s are some of the lightest wheels available via the aftermarket, I just wonder why automakers never opt for them more often.
The reason why I asked about stock wheel weight on the Roadster was since part of Tesla's priority was efficiency and range, assuming that the tires are in the low to mid 20s (in pounds), can we expect the wheels to be around 13 to 17 lbs (which is the case for both alloys above)?
OZ Ultraleggera:
Enkei RPF1:
The reason why I asked about stock wheel weight on the Roadster was since part of Tesla's priority was efficiency and range, assuming that the tires are in the low to mid 20s (in pounds), can we expect the wheels to be around 13 to 17 lbs (which is the case for both alloys above)?
OZ Ultraleggera:
Enkei RPF1:
I think the main ones are more cost and (in some cases) less strength.
Considering the range of costs and weights...
You could go exotic with carbon fiber wheels.
Forged aluminum wheels are desirable.
Cast aluminum is common, less expensive than forged but tends to weigh more.
Then there are the old cheap steel wheels that some low cost and trucks cars still use...
Roger Reid
Old but effective
I put the 205/50 16" (Hoosier A6) on the front of my Sport model for autocross purposes. That along with adjusting the sway bars and shocks reduced the understeer in corners. The "new Tires" setup in the main console was neccessary to get back my regen braking and worked flawlessly for this tire. I don't know how far off in diameter you can go and have the new tires setup work.
Typically cars are set up from the factory with understeer. Understeer is where the front of the car resists turning even when you are trying to steer the car sharply. Oversteer is where the rear end spins out and can cause total loss of control. For the average driver understeer is safer and will result in less accidents.
Are the 205 wide tires neccessary for a street application? In my opinion, no. Just drive the speed limit and there are no problems. On the other hand if you are "playing" with the speed limit around a high speed turn with a cliff on the outside and the front end pushes, your only choice is to slow down or get lucky.
Typically cars are set up from the factory with understeer. Understeer is where the front of the car resists turning even when you are trying to steer the car sharply. Oversteer is where the rear end spins out and can cause total loss of control. For the average driver understeer is safer and will result in less accidents.
Are the 205 wide tires neccessary for a street application? In my opinion, no. Just drive the speed limit and there are no problems. On the other hand if you are "playing" with the speed limit around a high speed turn with a cliff on the outside and the front end pushes, your only choice is to slow down or get lucky.
I finally got a call back from someone at product planning at Yokohama Tires about getting the front tires for the Roadster in the new AD08s (175/55 R16). He called HQ in Japan and basically they said it's not going to happen so stick with the AD07s. Oh well. They did say some people use the AD08s in wider sizes though.
Tdave
Member
Anyone consider buying another pair of the stock rear wheels and putting them on the front? The 17x7.5 wheel would fit a 205/45 R17 tire, which should indeed fit within the wheel well in the front. This arrangement would open up a bunch more tire options that are available in both 205/45 R17 (front) and 225/45 R17 (rear).
Anyone know the offset of the stock rear and front wheels? That's the only part I'm unsure of with the above arrangement. Will the offset of the rear wheel work when mounted on the front?
Anyone know the offset of the stock rear and front wheels? That's the only part I'm unsure of with the above arrangement. Will the offset of the rear wheel work when mounted on the front?
Those big mud flaps seem to be on some Roadsters delivered to Scandanavia. I wonder if the local rep worked out something special for that Market.
Here were similar on EuroSig250#30:
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Oh, and unrelated, but related to this thread topic, here is a photo of Brabus package wheels:
Here were similar on EuroSig250#30:
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Oh, and unrelated, but related to this thread topic, here is a photo of Brabus package wheels:
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At the risk of being slightly off topic, I often feel if my Roadster could accelerate faster with more grip from the back. Most cars with sub 4 sec 0 to 60 have much wider tires at the back.
I saw today that the (wonderful) McLaren 12C has two options for tires, the super sticky ones drop the 0 to 60 down from 3.3sec to 3.1 sec. I wonder if part of the roadster sport / vs non sport acceleration difference is due to the different tires?
I saw today that the (wonderful) McLaren 12C has two options for tires, the super sticky ones drop the 0 to 60 down from 3.3sec to 3.1 sec. I wonder if part of the roadster sport / vs non sport acceleration difference is due to the different tires?
I pondered the same thing. Some rambling ideas:
I think some Roadster sports were delivered with the AD07 instead of A048, so I am guessing that the 0-60 difference can't be that great.
Having 900lb of batteries over the rear wheels likely helps a lot with traction even if the tires are relatively skinny.
It is my understanding that turning traction control 'off' doesn't actually fully disable it. I would think the Roadster drive-train with firmware changes could easily "lite up the tires" and do smoking burnouts, but they probably programmed it not to do that. Considering its' performance capability, the Roadster is very 'docile' to drive.
I think some Roadster sports were delivered with the AD07 instead of A048, so I am guessing that the 0-60 difference can't be that great.
Having 900lb of batteries over the rear wheels likely helps a lot with traction even if the tires are relatively skinny.
It is my understanding that turning traction control 'off' doesn't actually fully disable it. I would think the Roadster drive-train with firmware changes could easily "lite up the tires" and do smoking burnouts, but they probably programmed it not to do that. Considering its' performance capability, the Roadster is very 'docile' to drive.
I think the stickies are necessary to make use of the increased torque. As the mathematicians would say, stickies are "a necessary but not sufficient criterion".
Wider tires do not necessarily grip better. Surface friction is proportional to the normal force (e.g. weight of the car on the wheels) times the coefficient of friction between the two surfaces (an empirical constant determined based on the materials used). You'll note that surface area is not a factor in that equation. The reason is that spreading the weight around more area reduces the normal force, so it's a wash.
At least that's what physics has to say on the matter; I don't know if there are some second-order effects due to uneven surfaces, etc.
Thanks TEG. To summarize, if you want to make a softer tire, you have to make it wider in order for the tire to support the weight of the car.
So wider tires don't grip better. SOFTER tires grip better. But due to the limitations of the materials, softer materials may require you to make the tire wider.
Therefore tire width limitations may have an impact on how soft a tire you can install.
That makes plenty of sense.
So wider tires don't grip better. SOFTER tires grip better. But due to the limitations of the materials, softer materials may require you to make the tire wider.
Therefore tire width limitations may have an impact on how soft a tire you can install.
That makes plenty of sense.
shark2k
Member
He seemed to easily light up the tires in this video: http://www.oncars.com/video/268/Tesla-Roadster-Directors-Cut
-Shark2k
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