Door release loose?

[tvuolo]

Hi guys,

My roadster developed a squeak whenever I opened or closed the driver door. It's been getting worse, so this weekend I went to go lubricate whatever it was. As it turns out, I don't think it's the hinge, I think something holding the rubber door release is slowly coming undone. The driver door release seems pushed into the body on one side. When I shake the door, something is definitely rattling and squeaking right there. Has anyone experienced this? Is this a simple fix I can do by pulling off the door panel and tightening some screws or bolts? Or is this a service center thing?

 

[ML Auto]

It's probably not the release button. There is a thin metal backing plate that gets bent after repeated use, but unless it is loose the rattle is probably something else. I'm not sure there is anything other than the hinge that would squeak, and it takes awhile for the oil to penetrate the hinge. There are a lot of plastic clips inside the door that can break, causing rattles from the cables and wires. Its not that hard to remove the door panel to inspect everything. There was a thread on how to do it when replacing the door speakers.

 

[tvuolo]

I took the door apart -- easy with the instructions in the door speaker thread. The squeak is because the top of the window track is not attached to anything and is rubbing on the inside of the door. The bottom of the track is attached with 2 screws and connects to the window adjustment screw. I don't think I can get to the top of the track with the window in place. I ran out of time to take the passenger door apart. So does anyone know:
1) how does the top of the window track attach?
2) how do you remove the window glass?
3) Is it possible to bend the backing plate back, or should it be replaced.

I might be in over my head.

 

[ML Auto]

There is a small phillips head screw in the center of the track a couple of inches from the top. You can see the hole and install the screw with the window in place. Try to find the old screw loose in the bottom of the door, as it is easier than trying to find a new one.

The window comes out by removing the three locking nuts on the channel bonded to the bottom of the window. Remove the top weatherstripping, tip the front of the glass down slide the window up and out.

The backing plate can be bent back, but removing the door button to do so is really a pain in the a**. You might not want to attempt that one.

 

[tvuolo]

In case someone happens along this thread in the future:

I took both doors apart last night. There is a bolt in the top of the track attaching it to a stand off bracket. The bracket has a non-slip pad attached to the other side and merely rests against the inside of the car door. It's held in place with pressure by the window. What had happened in my door is that the 2 plastic clips holding the window to the track had popped off the track.

I removed the inside half of the rubber seal around the window. I didn't need to remove the outside half since that gave me enough play and I really only needed to lift the window slightly higher than the the rubber allows it to go.

I lowered the window about an inch so the all 3 bolts attaching the window to the lift mechanism were accessible. The front bolt is accessible through a hole, so you have to lower the window a bit to align the bolt with the access hole.

With the window free, I lifted it up a few inches, and wedged it temporarily. It looked like the plastic was wearing on the track, so I applied a very tiny bit of synthetic garage door grease along the track. I lowered the window back onto the track making sure the slot in the clips grabbed the track.

I reattached the window and tested... perfect. I put everything back together. I drove 30 miles this morning with the window in various up/down states and everything seems fine. No rattles or squeaks. If you are hesitant to take your door apart, I can assure you... this is one of the easiest doors I've ever had to work on.

I decided not to worry about the door release being bent at this time since that wasn't the source of the rattle or squeak.

 

[ML Auto]

The bracket that the track bolts to is actually supposed to be bonded to the door. The non slip pad you refer to is probably whats left of the bonding adhesive. With the bracket loose, the window can pop off the track.

 

[tvuolo]

The bracket that the track bolts to is actually supposed to be bonded to the door. The non slip pad you refer to is probably whats left of the bonding adhesive. With the bracket loose, the window can pop off the track.

You are absolutely correct. I shut the door last night - not hard - and heard the window pop off the track. Any idea what I can use to bond the bracket back to the car?

 

[dhrivnak]

There are special carbon fiber glues so be sure to try and get one of those

 

[ML Auto]

Use a urethane adhesive. Most auto parts store will carry some for windshield and side glass installation. Its works just as good as the Betaseal 1701 ($$$) that Lotus used to assemble the car originally.

 

[tvuolo]

Thanks guys, you are a wealth of info! I have a few more questions, though.

Do you think I can put the adhesive on the pad, re-assemble everything, and let the force of the window in the track hold it in place while it cures? Or should I rig up some sort of foam to wedge in there to hold the bracket in place while it cures?

What about JB Quick? The auto parts guys suggested that over the urethane.

 

[ML Auto]

If you can get the bracket to have pressure against the door, you should be OK, but the window doesn't really apply any pressure to the track, so you should probably get something to wedge it in place. JB Weld might work if you remove all the old urethane. I doubt it would last for very long if you didn't, as the cured urethane is still somewhat flexible.

 

[tvuolo]

I realized I never came back and finished this thread, so here's the result (should someone else have this problem).

I cleaned the old glue off, and tried using JB Quick Weld. That held for a few days, then broke loose. I cleaned the JB Weld off (not an easy task) and used 3M Window Weld. But I glued it in the wrong spot and the window wouldn't close.

I cleaned all of that off, re-glued, put the window in the track, put the window about 2/3 up (which seemed to hold it in place the best), and wedged some old socks along the track to hold the bracket in place. After about 16 hours, I re-assembled and it's been great ever since.

I saw on the Lotus forums that several people had drilled holes and attached the top bracket with screws. If it breaks free again, I'll probably go this route. If I used similar screw to the ones that hold the track at the bottom, they wouldn't be very noticeable.

Finally, if anyone tells you they didn't make a mess with 3M Window Weld... they are a <bleeping> liar. ;-)

 

[IirisSeveri]

Remove the inside doorknob by locating the button (like our model), metal tab or wire clip on the side of the knob that acts as a release. Using an awl or small screwdriver, push the button in all the way—and at the same time—pull off the handle. Remove the door rose by inserting a small screwdriver into the small notch in the rose and twisting the tool to pop it off. Be careful so you don't chip any door paint.

 

[IirisSeveri]

• Small hinge for exterior shutters or doors.
• "Lift-off" feature allows shutter or door to be easily removed after installation.
• Hinge is made to be surface mounted.
• Hinge is non-handed. Will work on either left hand or right hand shutters.
• Hinge measures 2-5/16" tall by 1-7/8" wide in the open position as shown in the photo.
• Made from steel and zinc chromate plated.
• Wood screws are included.
• Sold by the pair. A pair is two complete hinges which is normally what is needed to hang one shutter.

 

[Carl W]

There is a small phillips head screw in the center of the track a couple of inches from the top. You can see the hole and install the screw with the window in place. Try to find the old screw loose in the bottom of the door, as it is easier than trying to find a new one.

The window comes out by removing the three locking nuts on the channel bonded to the bottom of the window. Remove the top weatherstripping, tip the front of the glass down slide the window up and out.

The backing plate can be bent back, but removing the door button to do so is really a pain in the a**. You might not want to attempt that one.

This is slightly off topic, but in the last few weeks, my driver door doesn't open on the first push of the exterior door button. I always hear the "click" sound, but it usually now takes 2 and sometimes 3 pushes of the button to actually release the latch to open the door. Any advice?

 

[ML Auto]

It sounds like the latch is just dirty and needs to be lubed. Try some WD40 and soak it real good. If that doesn't work you will probably have to remove the latch to clean it.

 

[Carl W]

It sounds like the latch is just dirty and needs to be lubed. Try some WD40 and soak it real good. If that doesn't work you will probably have to remove the latch to clean it.

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a shot and let you know if it worked.

 

[Carl W]

It sounds like the latch is just dirty and needs to be lubed. Try some WD40 and soak it real good. If that doesn't work you will probably have to remove the latch to clean it.

Seems to have worked! You're a genius! A couple quick sprays of WD40 and it opens on first push.