No. Watch ilovecoffee's video. Just don't put the butyl where it'll get in the way of putting your subwoofer back.I want to do this rear wheel wells soundproofing. Do the rear seats have to be removed to get to those wells? Thanks!
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No. Watch ilovecoffee's video. Just don't put the butyl where it'll get in the way of putting your subwoofer back.I want to do this rear wheel wells soundproofing. Do the rear seats have to be removed to get to those wells? Thanks!
You do not need to remove the rear seats. I removed the trim in the rear sub-trunk and then the two side trim panels to gain access to the wheel well areas.I want to do this rear wheel wells soundproofing. Do the rear seats have to be removed to get to those wells? Thanks!
Thanks for your reply. I ordered the weather seal kit, it couldn't hurt. and I'll try adjusting the hatch stops. Where would I get the vinyl tubing ? As a side note, the dog also constantly yawns like she's tying to clear her ears. I'll post the results in case anyone else runs into this issue.If you don't want to do any modifications then first check your hatch stops are calibrated with the envelope test. All the stoppers should hold the paper without being able to remove it.
If that's already the case, do vinyl tubing and re-adjust hatch stops after.
I'm not a dog owner so I'm not sure if there could be any other reason for this, but it's a reasonable assumption. Although interesting to note dogs can't hear as low as humans (64hz for dogs vs 31hz for humans).
Today the weather was in the low 50s (in order for the glue of butyl to stick well per instruction), so I tried to do the surgery .You do not need to remove the rear seats. I removed the trim in the rear sub-trunk and then the two side trim panels to gain access to the wheel well areas.
This.My spidey-sense tells me the boom originates at the rear and follows the domed roof to the heads of the front passengers. I've never had complaints from rear-seat passengers.
I want to do this rear wheel wells soundproofing. Do the rear seats have to be removed to get to those wells? Thanks!
Yup gotta remove the subwoofer! Its just 3 bolts or something like that. You don't have to unplug it, just move it to the side.Today the weather was in the low 50s (in order for the glue of butyl to stick well per instruction), so I tried to do the surgery .
A couple of questions if you have the same situation:
(*j. I was only able to put the insulation on the top part of the left wheel well to the rear, and not on the side (next to the vertical panel) as there is no clearance.
(*) On the right side, the woofer box gets in the way, and I didn’t try to remove it so there is only a short part of the exposed wheel well that I can put some insulation on.
I did have some noise measurements (using my iphone) before the surgery, so I will try to measure the noise again tomorrow on the same roads. Thanks!
This.
30hz to 40hz is so physically long, like over 30 to 40 feet, that it bounces around the cabin making identifying the source by hearing in stereo in that small cabin quite difficult.
I preface this with I am not a scientist, but this is my understanding.
Nope. You don't need to take off the whole plastic trim either (you won't want to, too much effort). I forget the socket size but there are a few bolts you have to remove
Yup gotta remove the subwoofer! Its just 3 bolts or something like that. You don't have to unplug it, just move it to the side.
To get butyl further down in the wheel well requires nimbleness. My back wasn't happy the next day with all the weird bending and reaching
Welcome, new tires will not help unfortunately. I did the same when I first got my Y and replaced it with Michelin A/S 4. The best thing you can do next is use the rigid hatch stops by using pvc end caps, bore the inner circle out to fit over the rubber stops (top two only).New member here, but wanted to join as we have a 2022 MY from TX and this issue has been driving me nuts. Thankfully I had some success yesterday thanks to this thread! A few weeks ago I did the sound proofing inside the wheel arches, this helped, but not a major improvement.
Yesterday I ran 5/16" tubing in the hatch gasket, and the good news is this made a major improvement. Not perfect, but livable now. I think the next steps are to better align the match with the stops, and, get new tires.
Big shout-out to ilovecoffe! Thank you for all the time you put into help solving this issue.
I'm thinking about trying the 5/16" vinyl tubing. Any issues with the trunk closing or water leakage? Thanks for your video!If you don't want to do any modifications then first check your hatch stops are calibrated with the envelope test. All the stoppers should hold the paper without being able to remove it.
If that's already the case, do vinyl tubing and re-adjust hatch stops after.
I'm not a dog owner so I'm not sure if there could be any other reason for this, but it's a reasonable assumption. Although interesting to note dogs can't hear as low as humans (64hz for dogs vs 31hz for humans).
Any issues with closing your trunk or water leakage after putting in the vinyl tubing?New member here, but wanted to join as we have a 2022 MY from TX and this issue has been driving me nuts. Thankfully I had some success yesterday thanks to this thread! A few weeks ago I did the sound proofing inside the wheel arches, this helped, but not a major improvement.
Yesterday I ran 5/16" tubing in the hatch gasket, and the good news is this made a major improvement. Not perfect, but livable now. I think the next steps are to better align the match with the stops, and, get new tires.
Big shout-out to ilovecoffe! Thank you for all the time you put into help solving this issue.
I'm thinking about trying the 5/16" vinyl tubing. Any issues with the trunk closing or water leakage? Thanks for your video!
Any issues with closing your trunk or water leakage after putting in the vinyl tubing?
The vinyl tubing did not reduce any booming for me. I did not like the created gap when closed or pop when opening. When I removed the tubing there was some water in it from the high-pressure car wash. I admit I likely made the weatherstripping holes too big.Nope! Nor anyone that I've heard that has done this.
Seems like just a modest improvement for me. I'm going to use rubber glue to patch up those holes.The vinyl tubing did not reduce any booming for me. I did not like the created gap when closed or pop when opening. When I removed the tubing there was some water in it from the high-pressure car wash. I admit I likely made the weatherstripping holes too big.
Seems like just a modest improvement for me. I'm going to use rubber glue to patch up those holes.
After further driving this morning, I did notice more than a modest improvement. Less echo/booming and more solid thuds over bumps. I'm glad I did it now. Thanks again.If you feel like you can't move your hatch door at all with it closed with your body weight, then you're probably good. Pay attention to movement of the gap as you push down on it. Just make sure the hatch stops are calibrated well after doing that tubing mod.
I'd probably do sound deadening above the rear wheel well if you still notice noise.
Easier solutions, but ones that still focus on the hatch door being the source are the trunk cover and rigid hatch stops.
None. I used 5/16” not 3/8”. It is a very tight close now, and I image the 3/8 would be too much.Any issues with closing your trunk or water leakage after putting in the vinyl tubing?
The key area here is the curved steel right above the wheel. You need to pull up the dark grey foam that is alresdy there and apply the butyl. Did you treat that area?I totally removed the subwoofer. I was that far into it and figured I should go ahead and unplug it to make the butyl install easier for myself. I struggled to find the third bolt! Really struggled! But, it is there.
I only did one layer behind the subwoofer, but I may go back in the springtime and add more on the wheel well of both fenders. I did add the acoustic foam on top of the butyl, so will have to tear this off. I do have plenty of extra.
And I actually started on the "outside" of the wheel wells. Pulled the wheel and then removed the shield to get in there. I did butyl and the acoustic foam. Not sure how much it helped.
Yes, I did that area. I only put on one layer of butyl then put the Tesla foam pad back. Should I add more in the springtime?The key area here is the curved steel right above the wheel. You need to pull up the dark grey foam that is alresdy there and apply the butyl. Did you treat that area?