Final Decision: Is Going from AWD to P Worth $9,946-$12,946?

[Apprunner]

Have a look at the actual acceleration times and trap speeds in a 1/4 mile run and you'll see how worthless fixed-point dyno numbers are for EVs

Again consider the difference in times to get to 60 is about 0.8-0.9 seconds between the cars.

And the P gets to the end of the 1/4 mile (nearly double that speed) roughly... 0.8-.9 seconds sooner than the AWD.

That extra acceleration is almost entirely front-loaded in the 0-60

(see also the fact the trap speeds are so close- which is usually an excellent proxy for net power)




Quite a lot of 70 mph highways here.... which means realistically most folks are going 75-85.

But if you review my description of my drive, the only time I need acceleration from 0 is...virtually never, and never in any way where 4 vs 3.2 would matter as I'd be the only car doing it either way.








In terms of acceleration? Nope. Not even the P is traction limited- in fact the lighter 18s make the car (very slightly) quicker than with those boat-anchor 20" wheels.

Certainly I'd expect the PS4s (in any size) to brake and corner under power better than the MXM4s- but that's tires not car- and easily swapped while retaining the lighter, more durable, 18" wheels.

Even if I'd gone P it would've been a P3D- to avoid the 20s, which are all show and no go.

I was referring to handling of course and brake feel. I didn’t like the stock tires on the 18s and liked the 20s way more especially in so cal.

Also, punching the throttle around 40 mph in the Performance feels way more aggressive. Anything below 80mph and the feel is pretty noticeable. And let’s be honest, running away from those pesky bmw M3s in a Performance feels way better than barely edging one out in a Dual Motor version. Haha.

 

[hydro 481]

Back when I was younger in my early 20s, I was in the exact same position as you. I had just purchased a Chrysler 300C. I think cost was around 30K. A few weeks later I was debating whether I wanted to trade it in for the upgraded SRT8 model. Cost to upgrade to that model was around 52K. I went back and forth for a few days before deciding to go ahead and upgrade. Can’t recall how much money I lost on the trade in but it was a substantial amount. Not gonna lie...as soon as I drove off the lot in the new car, I started to loathe my decision. I was really upset at myself for weeks after that. So much so I couldn't really enjoy the car. But then I started modding the car and getting compliments from people, which kinda help alleviate the guilt I was feeling. Eventually I fell in love with the car and if I could go back and do it all over again, I definitely would do the same. It turned out to be one of my favorite cars that I've owned.

 

[CAAD]

Don't do it. Theres so much of us on the road now that they look like taxis. With less spent you'll feel better.

 

[kevyli]

I just went from AWD to P3D+ this weekend and it is a pretty drastic difference in acceleration under 50 mph. It feels ungodly fast.

However, I would urge you to look at a used P3D so you don't have to eat the first year depreciation again. I got a fire-sale P3D+ and would not have done the swap for a new one.

 

[MagnusMako]

And you see now the Plaid Powertrain was just announced only for the S/Y/X/Roadster in about a year. Reserving that as my next 'upgrade' if nothing is offered for the AWD.

 

[Glamisduner]

I know.. at the end of the day, its me alone that has to make the decision.
In preparation for whatever decision occurs, I ended up paying off the car yesterday.
If I sell it, at least I don't have to deal with clearing the title, speaking with the lender, all that headache. If I keep it, at least I can save on monthly payments going forward. Still, part of me think its stupid that its 10K+ to spend on a second faster car after JUST buying this car but a part of me also doesn't want to regret every time I step in the car.
Decisions.
I also didn't take into consideration that Tesla doesn't allow all season tires on the 20".

Well, the car was 10k more for P3D- over AWD when I purchased, so I don't think it's silly. And like I said, I keep them until I pay them off, and well you paid it off lol.

Just a second faster is allot, that's roughly 20% more acceleration.

 

[Sutton 3P]

And you see now the Plaid Powertrain was just announced only for the S/Y/X/Roadster in about a year.

Not Y (or 3)

 

[Viking79]

Also note that depending on where you live, the Model 3 Performance will generally cost more than the sticker price difference.

In Iowa i would have to buy a second set of wheels/tires for winter at about $2,000. Also, performance tires don't last as long and require more frequent replacement and they are higher priced. I expect you have to change them twice as often and they cost about $1300/set vs maybe $800 for the 18" tires. If they last 2 years for the 20" and 4 years for the 18", the 20" tires are going to cost $450/year more.

That being said that price is buying a very large amount of added traction, buy what you like. My coworkers make fun of me for always buying the car "I almost want". I am buying Model 3 LR AWD, but of course wanted performance model...

 

[MagnusMako]

Not Y (or 3)

You're right. I jumped the gun on that one thinking the Y was included (sometimes I read too fast). I'm sure there will be improvements of some sort in the next year or two. When I think about it though, by offering Plaid to their top of the line vehicles, it will create more distance between the 3, so it wouldn't seem too unreasonable to offer a 'Ludicrous Mode' for the 3 and then still have enough separation to keep S/X/Roadster attractive because of Plaid.

 

[disapr]

I don't intend for this to be harsh, but did you put this much effort into making the initial decision to get the AWD? And did you drive them both back to back?

The Model 3 Performance is incredible.. Personal teleportation device is probably a better description.

I don't think that it's impossible that Tesla will offer AWD cars an upgrade path to a base 3P car.. IF Tesla offers something like this in the future, it would likely be less expensive overall than swapping cars.

 

[Sutton 3P]

will create more distance between the 3, so it wouldn't seem too unreasonable to offer a 'Ludicrous Mode' for the 3

I was thinking the same thing

I still don’t believe the 3P is tapped out for acceleration at low speed. So far I haven’t been able to get a coherent answer as to what the limit might be.

 

[yerEVan]

Like someone else mentioned here, when I ordered the AWD, and then the delays “forced” me to search for something available near me, and I chose the P3D-, it was an 11k difference that I said, What the Hell. So your 9-12k is kinda the same thing. I would do the same thing over again. Of course i got the 5k back, but i went into it having no clue that EM would offer that. But again, maybe a demo model, or some crazy deal that is not on the site, may make the blow less harsh.