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Fix your door that won't open

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My door stop presenting over the weekend, but I can still hear the switch in the handle operating when the car is off. Also, heard a piece fall to the bottom of the door when I was fidgeting with it. Without opening the door and pulling out the door handle unit, is it possible to diagnosis whether I need to change the microswitch only or the entire unit? I am out of warranty and a $200 fix is a lot more acceptable than a $1000 fix... I think if I go into the service center (San Diego) with this information I could get better service. Thanks for the help!

Sounds like the paddle gear
 
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My door stop presenting over the weekend, but I can still hear the switch in the handle operating when the car is off. Also, heard a piece fall to the bottom of the door when I was fidgeting with it. Without opening the door and pulling out the door handle unit, is it possible to diagnosis whether I need to change the microswitch only or the entire unit? I am out of warranty and a $200 fix is a lot more acceptable than a $1000 fix... I think if I go into the service center (San Diego) with this information I could get better service. Thanks for the help!
Sounds like a broken paddle gear, which is less than a buck.
 
Can I get an opinion on this one: one handle is making a "lump" sound near the beginning of presentment while handle is still quite embedded within the bowels of the door. It presents fully and opens when pulled. Alignment of the handle seems fine, there's space all around the chrome so not hanging up on the body metal. Kind of just makes an extra blip of a sound... Anybody had this and fixed it before it became a problem to forewarn me of what I should expect to find and solve by going at it in one sitting? Thanks
 
My door stop presenting over the weekend, but I can still hear the switch in the handle operating when the car is off. Also, heard a piece fall to the bottom of the door when I was fidgeting with it. Without opening the door and pulling out the door handle unit, is it possible to diagnosis whether I need to change the microswitch only or the entire unit? I am out of warranty and a $200 fix is a lot more acceptable than a $1000 fix... I think if I go into the service center (San Diego) with this information I could get better service. Thanks for the help!
That sure sounds like the gear shattered.
 
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This:
 
I’ve had three rebuilt and one replaced out of warranty, all good will. You may or may or may not receive the same treatment. Just reporting my experience. Clearly, it’s a manufacturing shortcoming that ought to be covered under a recall. Some people are selling stainless versions online. There’s also a DIY option if they want to charge you $900.
 
My door stop presenting over the weekend, but I can still hear the switch in the handle operating when the car is off. Also, heard a piece fall to the bottom of the door when I was fidgeting with it. Without opening the door and pulling out the door handle unit, is it possible to diagnosis whether I need to change the microswitch only or the entire unit? I am out of warranty and a $200 fix is a lot more acceptable than a $1000 fix... I think if I go into the service center (San Diego) with this information I could get better service. Thanks for the help!

Sounds like it actually maybe the $2 part, the pivot gear. You should be able to buy it at your Tesla Service Center, but other people make more robust ones available. It's a pretty easy repair I did it myself. More work to take the door apart then to do the repair itself!
 
Looks like my 3 month old car has the door handle issue. Driver door handle extends too far, and it takes me 2-3 pulls to get it to open. It's been gradually getting worse. Micro switch? Any quick fixes that recalibrate the mechanism, or is this a mechanical failure? Earliest SC appointment is 3 weeks out - I'm afraid the door will stop working completely before then.
 
Looks like my 3 month old car has the door handle issue. Driver door handle extends too far, and it takes me 2-3 pulls to get it to open. It's been gradually getting worse. Micro switch? Any quick fixes that recalibrate the mechanism, or is this a mechanical failure? Earliest SC appointment is 3 weeks out - I'm afraid the door will stop working completely before then.

I don't think you want to be tearing your door apart when it's under warranty. Tesla Service is very tolerant but, that might be pushing it a bit! It does open if you use the inside pull correct? Or is this the driver's door and so you were especially worried about even getting in?

Oops, sorry I see that is the case. It's not terribly difficult to do this, I'm out of warranty and like to play with things so I did one myself. Had Tesla fix the others. The only problem is the front doors are more difficult in that you do have to remove the window. There's a thread somewhere about this it's not difficult to do but time-consuming and a little nerve-wracking. Plus you'd have to order the parts. Probably wouldn't save you much time. I think maybe just roll the window down when it is inside in the garage, open it using the inside handle, and reduce use of the outside one as much as possible until then.
 
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I'm out of warranty and like to play with things so I did one myself. Had Tesla fix the others. The only problem is the front doors are more difficult in that you do have to remove the window.

Shouldn't have to remove the window. I've done all four doors without so.

Pulling chrome trim off door, and undoing the lower window regulator beam bolt... creates enough slack to move window over a bit to get a ratchet box end wrench on the bolts you need to get at.