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Found Some HEPA filters for the Model 3: way cheaper

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just calling something a HEPA filter doesn't mean it achieves HEPA filter performance / specs. I would also be VERY worried about additional workload on AC unit with restricting airflow (the sponge sealing around the filter is nuts... I'd rather have air bypass if the filter gets too clogged vs. the sponge sealing not allowing that and the blower having to work even harder).

Filters are cheap - the AC compressor/blower isn't. Same reason why at home you probably shouldn't run the most restrictive AC filter you can buy on your furnance....
 
Filters are cheap - the AC compressor/blower isn't. Same reason why at home you probably shouldn't run the most restrictive AC filter you can buy on your furnance....

I think that's fine, especially if it's from the vendor of the filter box that was installed with your HVAC... but I do agree that it should be replaced on time and not stretched to 2 or 3 times it's life...
 
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I had my cabin filters replaced as part of a Tesla mobile service call. Charge was $70 ($34 for the filters and $36 for the labor). After 18 months, my old filters were really filthy so glad I replaced. I don’t find $70 objectionable at all. I watched the technician do the replacement and it took him about 12 minutes but he knew exactly what to do, where to pull on certain parts, how to reinstall, etc., etc. Also, he’s more flexible than I am and that flexibility was indeed tested. I can’t imagine any money-saving option I’d employ to avoid this $70.
 
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I know since TeslaRaj has done a video on the Hepa filters the price has still stayed the same at 100 bucks from Abstract Ocean but I found these on Amazon and so far so good...
I made a video on this:

If you dont want to see it and skip right to the filters, here they are...
XTechnor Tesla Model 3 Air Filter HEPA 2 Pack : https://amzn.to/2u8NuXZ
Do you think there is a difference between stock filters without the frunk filter, and the new filters (again without the frunk filter) in regards to airflow?
 
So...

Frunk Filter + Stock Filter - airflow was normal
Frunk Filter + HEPA Filter - airflow was below normal (significantly, based on your video)
No Frunk Filter only HEPA Filter - airflow was normal

I definitely believe your statements, as it seems well proven. But what is interesting is that there is no difference between HEPA and non-HEPA, but when you add the Frunk, only the HEPA combo is significantly different.

I guess it’s just more noticeable, and without Frunk Filter, it may be less flow with HEPA but not really noticeable.

I’m curious because i may very well do this as a) my filters stink, and haven’t cleaned them yet, and b) instead of getting stock filters, i will probably go with your recommendation.

Thanks for the video, it was very helpful.
 
yerEvan... yea from what I can tell based on the paper test in the video.. the hepa and frunk filter was just too much work load on the fan, but the added perk is you literally smell no gas fumes from other cars. I had to take out the frunk filter just because it would not heat the car up enough to feel comfortable lol. I would manually have to adjust the fan to higher speed and over time this probably isn't good for the fan motor. After now driving with these hepa filters for 2 days, I can say the smell is better, but I still smell a hint of outside fumes from other cars, especially at a stop light when cars floor it in front of you on a green light. These are better than the stock ones by overall they reduce the internal smell of the car. When put into re-circulation mode, the car smells so good. Thank you for liking my video and youtube channel. Hope this helps!
 
Filters are cheap - the AC compressor/blower isn't. Same reason why at home you probably shouldn't run the most restrictive AC filter you can buy on your furnance....

It doesn't really work like that.

The AC compressor runs when it wants, either to maintain the battery, cabin, or some combination of both. Virtually all modern HVAC systems used temperature sensors on the evaporator cores to adjust the compressor schedule, meaning a an airflow restriction would cause the core temp to lower and the compressor to throttle down, all else being equal.

The blower motor is not a positive displacement pump, which means it's going to spin whether or not airflow is present. The motor isn't going to be pushing any harder if there is a restriction. There is simply no mechanism for either component you mentioned to give a crap whether or not the filter is clogged. OEMs have been using cabin air filters for decades now, and I can't recall a situation where a clogged filter is ever caused a compressor or blower issue.

That would be like a blown rear tail lamp causing your engine to fail.
 
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Common misconceptions:
- A blower motor works "harder" when air is restricted.
- A vacuum motor works "harder" when suction is restricted (it actually consumes less energy)
- Adjusting the climate control set temperature to an extreme such that it says "HI" or "LO" in the display will heat or cool your car faster

The only "bad" that comes from restricted air flows is that you /might/ freeze up the evaporator - but this is very far fetched as most vehicles have temperature sensing bulbs on the evaporator to prevent this.
 
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I can't understand why people spend $40,000+ on a car then try to save a few bucks per year on things like filters.

These filters cost more than the Tesla OEM filters. They claim to have HEPA level of air particle filtration plus some activated charcoal to neutralize gaseous odors. I haven’t researched them yet so I’m not sure if they have really been tested to meet the HEPA standard or if they just claim it is a HEPA filter. The Model 3 was not designed to have HEPA filters installed so air flow may be an issue.
 
Common misconceptions:
- A blower motor works "harder" when air is restricted.
- A vacuum motor works "harder" when suction is restricted (it actually consumes less energy)
- Adjusting the climate control set temperature to an extreme such that it says "HI" or "LO" in the display will heat or cool your car faster

The only "bad" that comes from restricted air flows is that you /might/ freeze up the evaporator - but this is very far fetched as most vehicles have temperature sensing bulbs on the evaporator to prevent this.


talk to any HVAC technician about installing extremely restrictive furnace air filters at home. if there's no downside - heck - let me throw a HEPA grade filter in there...
 
talk to any HVAC technician about installing extremely restrictive furnace air filters at home. if there's no downside - heck - let me throw a HEPA grade filter in there...

You're talking apples and oranges. Nobody on this forum has a 100,000 BTU gas burner living under their dash. Without any kind of temperature sensor on the expensive heat exchanger that can overheat, crack, and melt. This has absolutely nothing to do with anything in the car.

And no, you won't kill your furnace blower motor will that way either. You might need a whole new furnace.
 
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And no, you can't kill your heater core either. The whole point of "PTC" heating elements is they adjust resistance rapidly to maintain a certain temperature. You could have no airflow at all through the heater core and current would dial back rapidly to almost nothing once the PTC stones got up to temperature.

The risk of excessive restriction is the fan may not be able to move enough air to keep you comfortable. That is it.
 
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