Front license plate options?

[dsm363]

I like this option GasDoc. I just spoke to the Chicago SC and they said the factory preferred method in Illinois is to mount middle of the nose cone and to drill holes. Has anyone asked or heard if this kind of work would affect the Tesla repurchase agreement? I assume not if they are the ones recommending/performing the service. However, it seems that a car with a front nose holder from Illinois might be less desirable to a buyer from a state without the requirement.

It wouldn't affect the repurchase price. Someone could always buy a new nose cone. I think it is $250 or so.

 

[mkaps71]

D-Splay Plate Temporary Plate Mount

There are several solutions. Meter maids target your highline vehicles because they believe you can afford the fine if you can afford the car. An excellent solution is http://www.d-splayplate.com. This mount allows you to pop your plate on when you park, thus avoiding those tickets. Holds for when you give to valet. If driving with no plate and stopped specifically for that or called out on it, have handy under seat and you can always pull out and mount stating "forgot to pop it back on after I got a car wash recently." I agree, placing a plate on the nose of your new tesla is like walking around with a piece of spinach in your teeth.

 

[eidco]

I used the idea shown in this YouTube video. It's simple, elegant, safe, non-destructive, and sturdy. It cost me less than 4 dollars for 2 J-bolts.

 

[sublimaze1]

I used the idea shown in this YouTube video. It's simple, elegant, safe, non-destructive, and sturdy. It cost me less than 4 dollars for 2 J-bolts.

Nicely done.

 

[Andrew]

I used the idea shown in this YouTube video. It's simple, elegant, safe, non-destructive, and sturdy. It cost me less than 4 dollars for 2 J-bolts.

I like this idea very muchly! I wonder about using toggle-bolt drywall anchors instead of the bolt/hooks? Then you wouldn't have to cut off the bolts to keep them from sticking out the front too far... Even easier, perhaps?

 

[sublimaze1]

I like this idea very muchly! I wonder about using toggle-bolt drywall anchors instead of the bolt/hooks? Then you wouldn't have to cut off the bolts to keep them from sticking out the front too far... Even easier, perhaps?

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Nicely done (to the second power)

 

[scaesare]

I like this idea very muchly! I wonder about using toggle-bolt drywall anchors instead of the bolt/hooks? Then you wouldn't have to cut off the bolts to keep them from sticking out the front too far... Even easier, perhaps?[

I'd only caution that there are some radiator coils back there somewhere...be careful not to thread the shank back in too far..

 

[sublimaze1]

I still like - and still employ - Brian's post (page 1 or 2) using Zip Ties. Has lasted 11,000 miles for me without incident.

 

[Merrill]

I have had several car that I did not want to put a front plate on and I live in California. Had an XK8 without a front plate for 16years with no ticket. Having said that and having purchased the multi-coat red I decided to plate the front. I did not like the plate installed as the factory would do it right in the middle of the nose cone. So for me the skene brackets were the best answer and the reason is you drill the 2 holes under the lower portion of the plastic nose cone. I wanted the plate to be low on the nose cone and this bracket allows the adjustment up and down as well as tilting. I think it looks very nice and if I decide to not have a plate on the front I can remove it and you will not see the 2 small holes drilled into the underside of the nose cone. Very versatile bracket.

 

[Sunfishsolar.ca]

What about this? Reflective.

 

[sublimaze1]

What about this? Reflective.

Yours to discover.

Unfortunately many of the 50 haven't caught on.

 

[dsm363]

Yeah. I'd love a vinyl decal front plate but likely not legal in every state in the US (definitely not Texas).

 

[ecarfan]

Here is what I did based on a post from another person. At Lowes Hardware I bought two 1/4" x 4" "J hooks". They are zinc plated, not stainless steel, so in harsh climates they will rust but in my mild California climate they'll be fine. I tried to find J hooks at WestMarine, a boating store, but they had nothing. These 4" J hooks are a bit too long (next size down was 3/16'x2 1/2' which is too short) so I cut them down with my Dremel. After inserting the hooks through the grill and the front plate mount I marked the threads with some tape so the end of the threaded part would be flush with the surface of the mounting plate. Cost less than $2.

I think this front plate mounting method is the easiest of all the methods I have seen and is very secure, actually easier to do than the zip ties, moves around less, and will last longer. Of course if you want a method that you can easily remove the front plate, this isn't it. (Note: in the lowermost photo the object attached to the bottom edge of the plate is a Fastrak external transponder)

 

[nakedsushi]

For those living in (southern) California mounting the plate under the nose cone and over the grill, any issues with overheating? In LA where it gets to be 95F+ in the summer, I'm worried about not enough intake to cool off the battery. Am I just paranoid?

 

[dsm363]

For those living in (southern) California mounting the plate under the nose cone and over the grill, any issues with overheating? In LA where it gets to be 95F+ in the summer, I'm worried about not enough intake to cool off the battery. Am I just paranoid?

I drive for over a year with this in Texas and no issues the car reported at least.

 

[tennisman]

I actually have the Skene Design on my Tesla and it looks good - the only two holes drilled are on the underside of the nose cone and are not visible when looking at the car.

 

[BhamBen]

I had my art department print me a copy of my plate on reflective vinyl, laminated and computer cut. works great!

 

[smilepak]

I assume you have the non-autopilot version of the car? This method might cover the auto pilot sensor.

Here is what I did based on a post from another person. At Lowes Hardware I bought two 1/4" x 4" "J hooks". They are zinc plated, not stainless steel, so in harsh climates they will rust but in my mild California climate they'll be fine. I tried to find J hooks at WestMarine, a boating store, but they had nothing. These 4" J hooks are a bit too long (next size down was 3/16'x2 1/2' which is too short) so I cut them down with my Dremel. After inserting the hooks through the grill and the front plate mount I marked the threads with some tape so the end of the threaded part would be flush with the surface of the mounting plate. Cost less than $2.

I think this front plate mounting method is the easiest of all the methods I have seen and is very secure, actually easier to do than the zip ties, moves around less, and will last longer. Of course if you want a method that you can easily remove the front plate, this isn't it. (Note: in the lowermost photo the object attached to the bottom edge of the plate is a Fastrak external transponder)

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[Andyw2100]

I assume you have the non-autopilot version of the car? This method might cover the auto pilot sensor.

You're quoting a post from June of 2014, made months before autopilot was announced and made by a poster who includes in his signature that he took delivery in 2013.

 

[rickgt]

I love this idea... very clever

I had my art department print me a copy of my plate on reflective vinyl, laminated and computer cut. works great!
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So, where do you get the reflective vinyl, and how do you print on it??? while you are answering, did you use just regular laminate?

How is it adhered to the nose cone?

I had my art department print me a copy of my plate on reflective vinyl, laminated and computer cut. works great!
View attachment 88773View attachment 88774