Doug_G, one other "con", at least a potential one, is that if anything catches on that plate frame it's going to rip those grill parts right off leading to an expensive repair.
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I will probably make some changes to refine the mounting, but I think I'll leave that for the spring. It's good enough for now!
Cons - Might slightly obstruct radiator air flow (I doubt this will be a major issue - air can easily flow around it).
I made a separate topic for what I did for my vehicle.
BrianMan's cheap and quick, no-drill front license plate
I was thinking about doing something very similar. Since there is no cable tie at the bottom, does the plate holder flop around vertically, or is something keeping it in check?
Also, do the cable ties sticking through the front of the plate holder prevent the plate from sitting flush against the plate holder?
Doug_G, one other "con", at least a potential one, is that if anything catches on that plate frame it's going to rip those grill parts right off leading to an expensive repair.
Experimenting with mounting ideas, I took the common toilet to flange bolt and filed it down to just fit between the honeycomb openings. I used the larger diameter 5/16" bolt as I found the bolt itself just cleared the opening and made for a nice snug fit with no up/down slop.
I secured the bolt to the honeycomb structure by rotating the bolt 90 degrees which allowed the "ears" on the bolt to overlap the plastic; it seems very secure just finger tight, though I would use a locking nut to keep the bolt from rotating. Believe it or not, the bolts hit the lower corners of the mounting frame nearly perfect. The honeycomb openings are staggered so with a bit of trial and error (2 attempts) I found the right slot openings to mount the bolts to the plate holder.
The length of the bolt is 2 1/4" which is about a 1/4" short of meeting up with the bottom portion of the plastic license plate holder. A longer bolt would permit a sleeve to be placed over the bolt that would backstop the license place holder and allow for a threaded flat nut to secure the front. Lots of different ways to capture and secure the frame to this setup. Leaving it to the group's collective ideas to come up with a "best".
This is on the GP nose cone and probably would work best for those wanting a "permanent" mount that doesn't drill into the nose cone.
Bolts mounted on the honeycomb; bottom of plate holder would attach to these bolts.
(b) Every registration plate shall at all times be securely fastened in a horizontal position to the vehicle for which it is issued so as to prevent the plate from swinging and at a height of not less than 5 inches from the ground, measuring from the bottom of such plate, in a place and position to be clearly visible and shall be maintained in a condition to be clearly legible, free from any materials that would obstruct the visibility of the plate.
The legality is debatable, especially if its not visible when the car is not running. In CA I once got a ticket for not having a front plate while my car was in an airport parking lot for a few days.
Hey, ArtSci. Can you fabricate a transparent nose cone?Could you put the plate *inside* the nose cone? I've seen people with tinted plate covers, so I'm guessing this wouldn't be a problem. Ideally, I'm picturing something where there's a light that illuminates the plate only while the car is on.
I mounted my plate using a Skene mount. It's "hanging" from the lower portion of the nosecone.
Had to remove it to have my paint armor applied and realized that a good feature of this mounting arrangement is that if you decide to remove the plate, the two holes drilled into the lower edge of the nosecone are not visible unless you get on the ground and look up.
Would you mid postig a picture. FYI i checked today on pricing for a "spare" nosecone - with the badging over $500.
Has anyone from California gotten in trouble by mounting a custom license plate on the front? I am tempted to mount a custom plate like this after I get my first Fix It ticket (I hope I will never get one).
Here are some pics I took as I was putting my Skene mount back on after getting paint armor.
View attachment 19248
This was taken from the ground, looking up at the nose cone.
View attachment 19249
Now the brackets are attached with one screw each and double sided foam. During initial install, they are held on by foam first and then the holes are drilled with the bit included with the Skene mount.
View attachment 19250
The license holder is now attached to the bracket. Both the height and angle are adjustable via hex screws.
View attachment 19251
Here is the final result.
When removed, nothing is visible to the casual inspector unless a person lays on the ground and looks up at the.nose cone to view the holes made by the screws.