Gen 3 Wall Connector

[sieler]

Yep, that did it! The “Finish” button didn’t show up on my desktop browser but did on mobile.

Thanks

Re: 'finish' button appearing "on mobile".

Mobile what? App? The only app I know of is the 'Tesla' app, and I can't find anything within it that's related to the charger setup/config.
What app were you referring to? thanks!

 

[sieler]

I just installed it today. The WiFi set up was a bit buggy but worked. Like others, I'm seeing "Partially Configured". It did also update the firmware from 0.8.4 to 0.8.5 so not sure what that is. It'll charge my car, so I'm happy.

@Impaler ... did you ever get it to go to full configured? I ask because mine is also showing "partially configured".
thanks!

 

[Sarias62]

@Impaler ... did you ever get it to go to full configured? I ask because mine is also showing "partially configured".
thanks!

Yes. I think you have to change the default circuit breaker current (60 A) to something else and then change back to 60 A if that is what you are configuring it to. If you just leave it at the default it will continue to show “partially configured”

 

[integlikewhoa]

I have another question for the group ...

If I have a M3 - Tesla says the Wall Charger (TWC) can charge drawing up to 48A; do I need to install the Tesla Wall Charger on a 60A circuit to get the 48A throughput or would a 50A circuit work and also get me the the full 48A throughput? I have received conflicting information from Tesla and various electricians. Some say the 60A circuit is needed to maximize the charge on the Model 3 with the TWC while others INSIST that the 50A circuit is all that is needed ....

Thoughts?

John

Only the long range M3 charges at 48amps and that requires 60amp breaker. If you have a standard range M3 then the car only charges at 32amps and only a 50amp breaker is needed. Limitation is the on board charger in the cars. Some people might say you only need a 50 amp if your model 3 is the short or standard range model and they would be right. But if they say 48amps charging on a 50amp breaker they are wrong.

 

[Janus]

Only the long range M3 charges at 48amps and that requires 60amp breaker. If you have a standard range M3 then the car only charges at 32amps and only a 50amp breaker is needed. Limitation is the on board charger in the cars. Some people might say you only need a 50 amp if your model 3 is the short or standard range model and they would be right. But if they say 48amps charging on a 50amp breaker they are wrong.

The other thing to consider; what's the cost difference between setting up 32A vs 48A charging? Maybe today one has a car that can only charge at 32A, but the next car may go higher. So if the price difference is not too much (which is often the case with a short wiring run), there maybe benefit to "future proofing" the setup.

 

[Fiver]

The other thing to consider; what's the cost difference between setting up 32A vs 48A charging? Maybe today one has a car that can only charge at 32A, but the next car may go higher. So if the price difference is not too much (which is often the case with a short wiring run), there maybe benefit to "future proofing" the setup.

Lots of times it depends on your panel and how much spare power you have available. If you are running a new wire and/or conduit for your installation anyway, at least size that for the biggest power output possible, even if you don't need it right now. Running thicker gauge wire won't hurt an install, (if anything, it will help with voltage drop a bit) and later on you would only need to swap out your breaker if you ever wanted to upsize your charge speeds for your Long Range Cybertruck or 2020 2021 2022 2023 Roadster LR.

Future proof your install as much as you can, as long as it doesn't break the bank.

 

[jjohnson0113]

So this worked - the changing the amperage, exiting, and then setting it back to the proper setting to clear the partially configured erronious messaging. There is caveat. this change can't be made from the home wifi network side or you will get error messaging - forbidden, can't fetch, that kind of thing. Instead, you need to hold the button on the cable end for 5 seconds to get the Tesla built-in Wall Connector wifi SSID to re-broadcast and then connect to that Tesla Wall Connector network and make the required changes from there. I am now "fully configured".

Thanks! I was struggling with that.

 

[qiji405]

Here is the update: Tesla sent me a return label, ask me to send the defective one back, then in one week they sent me a new one and it just working fine.

 

[Gigaron]

I've scanned the barcode and it keeps stating it cant connect to the Tesla network and the IP doesn't work either. I also dont see it as a Wifi network in my settings. Any ideas how to trouble shoot?

Same here. Barcode was a bust for me and I had to select the WiFi using Settings on my iPhone. After that, I opened my browser and connected to http:/:192.168.92.1 and completed the configuration. Like others have mentioned, you do need to change the amperage to something you don’t want and then back to something you do want to make “ Partially configured“ go away.

 

[Phlier]

I asked the electrician what the price difference would be between a 60 amp breaker and 100 amp breaker, including the bigger wiring for the 100 amp breaker. My installation required 60 feet of wire, and copper ain't cheap. The price difference wasn't too bad, though... 100 bucks. I ponied up the hundred bucks extra for the 100 amp installation, in case (when) we add another Tesla. Until then, I can also use the excess capacity to install a mini-split AC system in the garage, too.

A bit of "future proofing" can go a long ways.

 

[Mokuzai]

I asked the electrician what the price difference would be between a 60 amp breaker and 100 amp breaker, including the bigger wiring for the 100 amp breaker. My installation required 60 feet of wire, and copper ain't cheap. The price difference wasn't too bad, though... 100 bucks. I ponied up the hundred bucks extra for the 100 amp installation, in case (when) we add another Tesla. Until then, I can also use the excess capacity to install a mini-split AC system in the garage, too.

A bit of "future proofing" can go a long ways.

You mean you had a 100 amp sub panel installed and are using a 60 amp breaker off of that for your wall connector? A 100amp breaker isn't proper protection on a gen3 connector.

 

[Phlier]

You mean you had a 100 amp sub panel installed and are using a 60 amp breaker off of that for your wall connector? A 100amp breaker isn't proper protection on a gen3 connector.

It's actually a Gen2.

 

[Mokuzai]

It's actually a Gen2.

Alright, well that works. Personally unless I had an older S or X that could actually take 80 amps I'd probably set the dial to 48 amps and put it behind a 60 amp breaker anyway. Unless they go back to dual onboard chargers for future models it is looking like 48 is the max from here on out.