Good Deal? 2014 P85+ with 200k miles for 18k

[Joep85d]

Hi all, looking to join the Tesla family with this opportunity to get a late 2014 p85d with 200k miles on the clock for an incredible price of $18k (Owner bought a model x and just want this out of the garage). It has the tech package with the air suspension option. It’s the cheapest in my area. I have done my fair amount of research (and this forum is the best place to get info on Tesla btw!) and knowing mileage is not a huge factor especially this particular one has the 8 years unlimited mileage on the hv battery and du (till late 2022). It’s a clean car with no accidents but the Exterior and interior are reflecting the mileage on the paint and leather. I am thinking to spend some money to detail it a bit and it should look just as good as other 2014 model s

I will be test driving it tomorrow and will be asking the owner for the service history and I’ll post my experience here.

Just curious if anyone here has experienced a performance model with similar mileage? And how is it holding up for you?

lastly, would you jump on this deal?

thanks!

 

[Kandiru]

The suspension components undergo stress aging, small cracks can lead to fractures, you do not want to experience steering or suspension failure at 90mph.

200k miles is a lot for any suspension and not worth your life IMHO.

 

[Alysashley79]

I have 12/14 build p85d it has 62k on the odo. It’s been a phenomenal car. Only had to replace a couple door handles (at Tesla’s cost)

that being said...I don’t buy the whole “just want it out of my garage” I know it’s hjgh miles. BUT that language alone screams “I’ve got something wrong with me” unless you know how to work on a Tesla yourself. I’d save the $18k and put it towards one with significantly less miles.

 

[Ostrichsak]

My scam sensor is going crazy on this one. RWD 60's from 2013 bring nearly double that. Hell, even as a parts vehicle it's probably worth double that. If this is a legitimate, clean titled 2014 P85D that you can buy for $18k run don't walk to the bank to get the cash. Regardless of the miles. The only thing more amazing than this deal (again, if it's legitimate) is that the first response was that it wasn't worth it. Now THAT is hilarious.

 

[Cheburashka]

If it's really 18K then definitely get it.

Even if it has a few issues it's still super cheap, and the motors and battery are still under warranty and you'll get unlimited free data + supercharging as well.

IMO, this is a no brainer.

 

[random155]

My scam sensor is going crazy on this one. RWD 60's from 2013 bring nearly double that. Hell, even as a parts vehicle it's probably worth double that. If this is a legitimate, clean titled 2014 P85D that you can buy for $18k run don't walk to the bank to get the cash. Regardless of the miles. The only thing more amazing than this deal (again, if it's legitimate) is that the first response was that it wasn't worth it. Now THAT is hilarious.

I know right...? Who the **** bases the decision on buying a car on mileage of suspension components? LOL, clearly no idea what they are talking about. And thats me being nice about it.

 

[PWlakewood]

I would snatch this up in a heartbeat.....where did you say this was located?

 

[AMPd]

The suspension components undergo stress aging, small cracks can lead to fractures, you do not want to experience steering or suspension failure at 90mph.

200k miles is a lot for any suspension and not worth your life IMHO.

Even replacing all the control arms it’s still going to be a fantastic deal. And with 200k miles that’s definitely the first thing I’d replace.

 

[PhilDavid]

The only way I'd buy that is if Rich Rebuilds can look over that car and tell me it is okay.

He'd know exactly what to look for.

 

[David_Cary]

My 2 cents.
The price seems fine to me. Not sure who would pay $30k for a car with just 2 years left on the full warranty.
There have been reports of battery failure at 250k miles or thereabouts. So the car will be worth significantly less in 2 years. You will be potentially worth just parts since the battery (last I heard) was still around $20k. Salvage battery? Sure - do you know how to install and get Tesla to recognize it? Supercharge it? Doubtful. If you have nearby folks that could do it, that does change things. But you are probably looking at $10k for a salvage battery with zero warranty.
That is ignoring the suspension stress issue - that you are spending, I don't know, $2k to fix.
The cosmetic issues that are another $2k.
And all this for the privilege of charging at 60kw. MCU1 failure etc.
You are 18 months from needing LTE also.
And we will just ignore the potential DU failure.
I have a 2015 70D (not selling) and the Blue book is 25k. With reasonable mileage. The P adds a little (but more wear concern - including battery). I suspect my range is the same if not better.
So 18k is fine but not a "run to the bank and don't tell anyone who might buy this car out from under your..." kind of price.
A P85D with 200k miles is not as good as a 85D because the battery has been stressed more - less efficient even if driven the same. More cycles.

 

[Joep85d]

Hi all! thanks for the replies, so let my story continue:
I went for a test drive this morning, and what a BUMMER! (almost cried out loud) It was a P85 PLUS not, D. And it didn't have auto pilot hardware. The seller was genuine though, he was a friend of mine and I have to scold at my friend some time today for such a miscommunication with the + and the D!

Since I was there, I might as well give it a good check and see if it is still worth the price tag:
The Goods
- Ex-uber car so that explained the mileage
- Still on the original motor, no milling noise at all during the drive
- Gets around 200 miles at 90% charge
- brakes were replaced last month
- front control arms were replaced last month at the SC, air suspensions are still good
- did a LTE conversion, think it's still on MCU1 since there's only spotify on v.10, no signs of yellowish/bubbling
- full clear protection wrap when the car was new, so the paint are still new except some scratches on the hood and front bumper

The Not So Good
- Instrument Monitor is showing the leaks at the top corners
- The cream leather with white stitchings are turning yellowish
- the driver door and the back door latches are not locking when open
- the panel gaps as usual
- the left side mirror seems to be moving slower than the right side, sign of motor going out?
- condensation at one of the headlights (it's a rainy day)
- the sun roof needs a little push when you click open, not sure if this is normal?

The BAD
- Signs of water leaks at the left sign of the C-Pillar (pictured) and the top trunk area (top left)
It was still wet at the headliner as it was pouring this morning, anyone has an idea how much is it to get the leak fixed?

Other than that the car seems to be very solid still, thought the rear motor S are more prune to problems.

Now is it still seems like a good deal? I haven't done much research on the P85+ as I wasn't expecting one. The steering was a bit too light to my liking especially on hwy, guess the sporty mode should solve that issue?

Lastly, would like to see if anyone can get me a ballpark figure how much am I looking at to fix the above problems, thanks!

 

[Ostrichsak]

My 2 cents.
The price seems fine to me. Not sure who would pay $30k for a car with just 2 years left on the full warranty.
There have been reports of battery failure at 250k miles or thereabouts. So the car will be worth significantly less in 2 years. You will be potentially worth just parts since the battery (last I heard) was still around $20k. Salvage battery? Sure - do you know how to install and get Tesla to recognize it? Supercharge it? Doubtful. If you have nearby folks that could do it, that does change things. But you are probably looking at $10k for a salvage battery with zero warranty.
That is ignoring the suspension stress issue - that you are spending, I don't know, $2k to fix.
The cosmetic issues that are another $2k.
And all this for the privilege of charging at 60kw. MCU1 failure etc.
You are 18 months from needing LTE also.
And we will just ignore the potential DU failure.
I have a 2015 70D (not selling) and the Blue book is 25k. With reasonable mileage. The P adds a little (but more wear concern - including battery). I suspect my range is the same if not better.
So 18k is fine but not a "run to the bank and don't tell anyone who might buy this car out from under your..." kind of price.
A P85D with 200k miles is not as good as a 85D because the battery has been stressed more - less efficient even if driven the same. More cycles.

Ohhh.... I see. You're the type of person who, if I offered this car to for free, you wouldn't take because it didn't have a warranty or unless I actually paid you to take it. This car is worth almost double what they're asking even with the miles and would be the lowest price legitimate deal in America making the 200k a side-note. You don't see the value in that, huh?

He also didn't say a single thing about salvage so I'm not sure how you got off onto those points. The car is still under full Tesla warranty on the battery pack and drive units for multiple years so that pretty much throws those negatives out the window for the near future.

Your final statement pretty much makes the entire opinion void when you say that a car that was $150k new is somehow worth less than a car that was $80k new. Let me guess, you don't own a performance variant Model S currently?

It's a clean title P85D for $18k. I don't care if it has 500k miles that's a killer price.

 

[ohmman]

Moderator note: Title amended to reflect correct model of vehicle.

 

[Ostrichsak]

Hi all! thanks for the replies, so let my story continue:
I went for a test drive this morning, and what a BUMMER! (almost cried out loud) It was a P85 PLUS not, D. And it didn't have auto pilot hardware. The seller was genuine though, he was a friend of mine and I have to scold at my friend some time today for such a miscommunication with the + and the D!

Since I was there, I might as well give it a good check and see if it is still worth the price tag:
The Goods
- Ex-uber car so that explained the mileage
- Still on the original motor, no milling noise at all during the drive
- Gets around 200 miles at 90% charge
- brakes were replaced last month
- front control arms were replaced last month at the SC, air suspensions are still good
- did a LTE conversion, think it's still on MCU1 since there's only spotify on v.10, no signs of yellowish/bubbling
- full clear protection wrap when the car was new, so the paint are still new except some scratches on the hood and front bumper

The Not So Good
- Instrument Monitor is showing the leaks at the top corners
- The cream leather with white stitchings are turning yellowish
- the driver door and the back door latches are not locking when open
- the panel gaps as usual
- the left side mirror seems to be moving slower than the right side, sign of motor going out?
- condensation at one of the headlights (it's a rainy day)
- the sun roof needs a little push when you click open, not sure if this is normal?

The BAD
- Signs of water leaks at the left sign of the C-Pillar (pictured) and the top trunk area (top left)
It was still wet at the headliner as it was pouring this morning, anyone has an idea how much is it to get the leak fixed?

Other than that the car seems to be very solid still, thought the rear motor S are more prune to problems.

Now is it still seems like a good deal? I haven't done much research on the P85+ as I wasn't expecting one. The steering was a bit too light to my liking especially on hwy, guess the sporty mode should solve that issue?

Lastly, would like to see if anyone can get me a ballpark figure how much am I looking at to fix the above problems, thanks!View attachment 585763 View attachment 585764

This is an important update and kind of what I figured. I see this a lot where cars seem like too good of a deal to be true and often are. It's either a scam or the seller doesn't know what they're selling but that usually tends to be 3rd party dealerships listing 70D as P100D or similar. The fact that this car isn't AWD and doesn't have AP hardware is a little more in line with the price. I still think that it's not a terrible deal as you'd be hard pressed to find very many Model S in the $20k range right now and most of those are going to be clapped out 60's with miles and damage and/or a salvage/rebuild title. P85 w/$18k still isn't a bad deal at all. Like I said, the basement tends to be mid $20's for any version in any condition these days due to part value. Bonus that it's a P85.

I'm till laughing at the people who say a car isn't worth $18k because the battery pack (IF it fails) is going to cost $20k+ ROFL They admit that just the battery pack alone in this car is worth more than the car on the secondary parts market and then try to say it's a poor deal. Some people....

 

[Ostrichsak]

Moderator note: Title amended to reflect correct model of vehicle.

That's going to confuse those new to the conversation given the discussion prior to this nugget was based purely on the car being a P85D. They're not going to know why so many were talking about P85D's and forming opinions based on given facts at the time which that it was a P85D.

 

[Cheburashka]

I'd probably still buy it. It's not an epic deal but it's still a great deal.

It seems like you'd need to replace the roof seal, which involves taking the sunroof off the car. Try calling Tesla, any service center you can get through, and have them estimate what that job will cost.

 

[ohmman]

That's going to confuse those new to the conversation given the discussion prior to this nugget was based purely on the car being a P85D. They're not going to know why so many were talking about P85D's and forming opinions based on given facts at the time which that it was a P85D.

The first sentence of the first post should clear it up for them.

 

[henderrj]

I have a December 14 85 with 220k miles on it. I did have to have front end suspension and rear hubs replaced. Actually they replaced everything in the rear when they did it. Except for the drive unit, that was replaced under warranty some years ago. No issues of any kind. Still on the original battery. Hoping it dies!

only complaint I have now is that the driver seat is beginning to be a little less supportive. On a 2 hour or more drive I find that I have back pains when I get out. Then again, I am 65! (But in good shape, I promise!) if anyone has any thoughts on updating or replacing that I'd sure be interested.

 

[David_Cary]

Ohhh.... I see. You're the type of person who, if I offered this car to for free, you wouldn't take because it didn't have a warranty or unless I actually paid you to take it. This car is worth almost double what they're asking even with the miles and would be the lowest price legitimate deal in America making the 200k a side-note. You don't see the value in that, huh?

He also didn't say a single thing about salvage so I'm not sure how you got off onto those points. The car is still under full Tesla warranty on the battery pack and drive units for multiple years so that pretty much throws those negatives out the window for the near future.

Your final statement pretty much makes the entire opinion void when you say that a car that was $150k new is somehow worth less than a car that was $80k new. Let me guess, you don't own a performance variant Model S currently?

It's a clean title P85D for $18k. I don't care if it has 500k miles that's a killer price.

I just said that I didn't think it was that incredible of a deal. I don't know why you get so upset that P cars depreciate more than other cars.
I brought up salvage as a possibility for replacing the battery. That is a pretty reasonable thing to think about on a P with 200k miles. Can you show me a P with more mileage on the original battery? I haven't heard of any. You do realize that a less efficient car requires more cycles per mile and it also is likely driven harder which will heat the battery (and thus stress) more.

Multiple years on the warranty? I do believe he said Dec 2014 which is 2 years and 3 months. That isn't "multiple years" in my book or anyone elses.

A car that was $150k new that would get crushed by a $100k car new. That has nearly 1,000 cycles on a $20k battery that has 2 years left on its warranty. That $50k is gone. Is a comparable P worth more than a non P? - absolutely. Is a car with 200k miles worth less than a car with 80k miles (my mileage just for fun) - absolutely. How they balance out is in the eye of the beholder.

 

[ohmman]

Multiple years on the warranty? I do believe he said Dec 2014 which is 2 years and 3 months. That isn't "multiple years" in my book or anyone elses.

FWIW, "multiple" is typically defined as "more than one". So I believe this qualifies.