Good Deal? 2014 P85+ with 200k miles for 18k

[AMPd]

I say buy it, it’s still a good deal, and worst case scenario the car has a catastrophic failure in 2 years you can part it out and make most of the money back.

 

[David_Cary]

I guess you are right. Multiple means more than one.
But I do think context matters. For me, multiple years means at least 3. But, multiple births - yes that includes twins. Context has to do with the maximum number. For births, beyond three is rare. But multiple years - could be 100 (not on warranty of course).

Interesting that a parts car with that many miles would be worth a good deal of money. The battery would seem to not be worth the trouble. DUs not needed for many cars (since few out of warranty - even 2 years from now). And again - mileage would dramatically diminish value.
MCU - not worth the trouble
Seats - too worn to have value.
The body parts aren't that expensive new.
I am surprised that a parts car would be worth "most of the money back" in 2 years. It is $18k plus whatever he puts it to it to make it workable. Most would be 51% I guess even if we generally think of a higher number than that. I am surprised that you could get $10k for example for a dead battery 240k miles, 8 year old P85+. Quite surprised.
I think there are really high salvage values now for modest mileage cars with working batteries. I just don't see the value in parts other than the battery. Especially when the mechanics that can use them probably number 20 in the whole country - outside of body parts and interior pieces.
Just for fun. KBB. No + option available. Good condition. Private party $15k.
P85D - $17.5k

I know, I know, KBB doesn't have great data on Tesla's. But it is better than mine and perhaps other owners who overvalue their own cars.

 

[dbldwn02]

The body parts aren't that expensive new.

Tell that to Stuttgart Auto Body in Denver. $11k to put a rear quarter panel and new bumper on my car. Paint was only $1k of that total. Labor, I'm guessing another $1-2k. It was less than 4 hours. That's about $1k per pound of aluminum!

 

[Ostrichsak]

I just said that I didn't think it was that incredible of a deal. I don't know why you get so upset that P cars depreciate more than other cars.
I brought up salvage as a possibility for replacing the battery. That is a pretty reasonable thing to think about on a P with 200k miles. Can you show me a P with more mileage on the original battery? I haven't heard of any. You do realize that a less efficient car requires more cycles per mile and it also is likely driven harder which will heat the battery (and thus stress) more.

Multiple years on the warranty? I do believe he said Dec 2014 which is 2 years and 3 months. That isn't "multiple years" in my book or anyone elses.

A car that was $150k new that would get crushed by a $100k car new. That has nearly 1,000 cycles on a $20k battery that has 2 years left on its warranty. That $50k is gone. Is a comparable P worth more than a non P? - absolutely. Is a car with 200k miles worth less than a car with 80k miles (my mileage just for fun) - absolutely. How they balance out is in the eye of the beholder.

Because it's an inaccurate statement. You compare an older used car to a new car and somehow that's a definitive comparison? Saying that a non-Performance car will somehow be worth more requires comparing cares of similar year, options and mileage. In this case the Performance car will be worth more 99% of the time. You keep making this statement all over the forum because you bought this baloney from someone else when you bought your non-Performance car and now you're just wishing it into existence with inaccurate statements along the way in some sort of hope that it makes your "investment" not as punitive. During the entire history of passenger vehicles the higher-end and more powerful vehicle is nearly always more desired later on save for a few random outliers across history. In fact, none of the metrics of the used Model S market support your statements about this not being worth buying at $18k which was your initial statement related to the actual topic of this thread before you chose to wander off-topic in yet another attempt to provoke me with the same inaccurate information that I chose to ignore in another thread that had nothing to do with this topic.

You haven't heard of ANY performance cars with over 200k miles? You need to get out more. You continue making definitive statements based on sample sizes of one or two seemingly. The data is out there if you care to find it but something tells me you're just going to keep saying that RWD 60's w/o any options will hold their value the best due to being the entry-level car. Unlike you, I've bought and sold several Model S now to include P and non-P and I can tell you that the P's hold their value better and sell quicker on the used market than comparable non-P cars. It takes longer to sell a 70D or 85D than it does an P85D even at a much higher price tag. None of the data supports your statement.

Now, if you want to say that the brand new cars are becoming better and cheaper when you compare new prices of previous versions you'll get no arguments out of me. In fact, I'm on record numerous times comparing my P85DL+ to a brand new Long Range car and raving about how far the cars have come in such a short period. That's not what you're saying though. If anything, the #'s on the new non-P cars makes the older non-P cars seem even more dated by comparison.

Uhm.... you do know that the warranty has over 2 years remaining and 2 years is multiple years by definition, right? You appear to be one of those rare gems that dissects every single word looking for a reason to start an argument online. I'm another loud wrong post or two away from just adding you to my ignore list since you seem to have nothing positive to add to my life based on your interactions thus far. 8 years on this forum and your posts seem among the least informed I've read. Not sure what you've been doing here for 8 years but it's not contributing to the community based on the things you posted.

Tell you what, find me some legitimate deals of a P85D for under $30k let alone under $25k let alone under $20k and I'll concede to your statement that $18k for a P85D is somehow a bad deal. We've since found out that it's a non-AP RWD P85 and it's still a solid deal compared to what's on the market. I've said it already (based on data and facts... not conjecture and assumptions) that the floor on Model S's appears to be mid $20's and that's the worst examples possible of these cars often not running, salvage title, wrecked or all of the above. This is due in large part to their value parted out and not just guessing like you've been doing.


We're getting even further off on a tangent now so let me summarize why your posts are obnoxious....

From the same post above you say:

I don't know why you get so upset that P cars depreciate more than other cars.

Then, on the same post you say:

Is a comparable P worth more than a non P? - absolutely.

Do you not understand how those two statements are fundamentally counter to each other? If you can't see how those are opposing statements that you made and you can't discern the definition of the word "multiple" I don't think we're going to get anywhere in this battle of whits.

 

[Ostrichsak]

FWIW, "multiple" is typically defined as "more than one". So I believe this qualifies.View attachment 586090

Thank you. Sad that we have to resort to posting definitions of commonly used words for some who seem to just seek out arguments of the most irrelevant garbage.

 

[Ostrichsak]

I guess you are right. Multiple means more than one.
But I do think context matters. For me, multiple years means at least 3. But, multiple births - yes that includes twins. Context has to do with the maximum number. For births, beyond three is rare. But multiple years - could be 100 (not on warranty of course).

What in the..... ???

 

[gaswalla]

back on topic.. did OP get the car? it's a good deal

 

[demundus]

My 2013 rwd performance with 150k miles is probably worth about 26. I’d say 18 is a steal if you know the guy and questionable if you don’t.

 

[Joep85d]

Thank you everyone for the inputs. I have just made up my mind and go ahead
Now the owner is willing to take the car back to the SC and fix the leaky problem before we deal, or just knock off another $1300 for me to deal with it on my own.

My gut feeling told me I should just let him fix it with the SC, but if I potentially find a more economical way to fix this I can use that savings to get the instrument display replaced from a reeldeal or something.

Anyone had this before and know what the price to fix it?

Thanks

 

[rickyjb]

Thank you everyone for the inputs. I have just made up my mind and go ahead
Now the owner is willing to take the car back to the SC and fix the leaky problem before we deal, or just knock off another $1300 for me to deal with it on my own.

My gut feeling told me I should just let him fix it with the SC, but if I potentially find a more economical way to fix this I can use that savings to get the instrument display replaced from a reeldeal or something.

Anyone had this before and know what the price to fix it?

Thanks

Think i heard it could be caused by blocked rain channels in the roof.

 

[teslick2]

Thank you everyone for the inputs. I have just made up my mind and go ahead
Now the owner is willing to take the car back to the SC and fix the leaky problem before we deal, or just knock off another $1300 for me to deal with it on my own.

My gut feeling told me I should just let him fix it with the SC, but if I potentially find a more economical way to fix this I can use that savings to get the instrument display replaced from a reeldeal or something.

Anyone had this before and know what the price to fix it?

Thanks

Great to hear that you pulled the trigger! $18k is a screaming deal. If I were you, I’d mentally prepare for there to be about $5-7k in repairs at the SC, however much less if you get it done cheaper elsewhere or DIY.

 

[Plasmid_Boy]

Congrats on the great deal.
I love my 2014 P85+. Hope that you will enjoy yours too. As others have said, be prepared for the common repairs and pay attention to motor sounds and fluid leaks while it is still under warranty.

 

[PWlakewood]

Thank you everyone for the inputs. I have just made up my mind and go ahead
Now the owner is willing to take the car back to the SC and fix the leaky problem before we deal, or just knock off another $1300 for me to deal with it on my own.

My gut feeling told me I should just let him fix it with the SC, but if I potentially find a more economical way to fix this I can use that savings to get the instrument display replaced from a reeldeal or something.

Anyone had this before and know what the price to fix it?

Thanks

I would let tesla fix it if it were my purchase.

 

[2101Guy]

congrats and Id def let Tesla fix that leak. FYI, the loaner I have now has similiar water spots. But also, the rubber that runs parallel to the glass sunroof (Yes, this loaner has the sunroof) is totally torn up along those sides

 

[sorka]

The suspension components undergo stress aging, small cracks can lead to fractures, you do not want to experience steering or suspension failure at 90mph.

200k miles is a lot for any suspension and not worth your life IMHO.

My 2008 Prius with 316K miles has the original everything including suspension components. I'm sure it'll be fine for the next 200K miles.

If this car was available in my area for that price right now, I'd buy it as my daughters first car.