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Hansshow audio sr+ harness install
- Thread starter Epico
- Start date
You defintely notice the sound is a bit less front weighted but also seems a bit more immersive as the door speaker and a pillar speakers are now working...it's worth the 50quid...make sure to get a discount from hansshow if you use them. Just what's app them a question and they reply with a 25% off code...or try "ivyhs" that got me 25% off
Fitted this Hansshow DIY kit today to activate all the speakers for my June 2019 model 3. Instructions from them were total pants and all online vids are for LHD cars.
I didn’t plan to but whilst the panels were off I decided to make a few short videos. Hopefully they will help someone
See description on pt1, another YouTuber has made a great video on how to remove the panels.
I didn’t plan to but whilst the panels were off I decided to make a few short videos. Hopefully they will help someone
See description on pt1, another YouTuber has made a great video on how to remove the panels.
MrBadger
Badger out
Rustybkts
Member
That's nothing....I purchased the "Professional version F" version during Black Friday and got 25% off the price. Still very expensive but the standard SR+ system is too "Ford Fiesta" for this old rocker!
Certainly taking nothing from @Shahabbari though as you do need balls to pull a perfectly good car apart!
My kit arrived with an aluminium die cast sub woofer with inbuilt amplifier and a separate Digital Signal Processor amp along with two replacement rear shelf speakers and a wiring loom. They also enclose a few tools to remove the plastic pins and cable pulling devices.
There were no install notes or any paperwork at all in the box so I watched the install video which makes it look far easier than it is!
(8) Hansshow SR Audio Upgrade Version F installation tutorial - YouTube
Despite requesting a RH drive wiring loom, mine was definitely for a LH drive car as the existing amplifier is on the passenger side.
This caused quite a shortening of the wiring loom as the amplifier socket is now on the left of the car and caused the power connections that are connected under the rear seat to be short by about 8". If the loom wasn't so damn long though it would have been far worse as the amplifier connection is over a metre further away on our cars.
The rest of the loom was plenty long enough to reach the boot though.
There were also some adapter cables required where the loom should have had the correct gender phono plugs and I will be writing quite a critique to Hansshow as the wiring loom should be a point to point operation and not leave mountains of loose cable to lose.
Replacing the rear shelf speakers was a right bugger and at the time I wished that the loom connected directly to the original speakers. It does seem to as it breaks in to the existing loom at the rear seats but a separate loom feeds the new speakers direct from the DSP which sits under the centre console at floor level in a slot just big enough for it.
The rear speakers that came out have cardboard cones and look cheap, the new ones are in a solid aluminium spun case and have carbon fibre cones. They certainly look the part and its a pity they are hidden away.
What I will say is that it all worked first time. The sound is quite astounding and has moved the sound from a front weighting to somewhere in the centre of the car and certainly very immersive!
My group du jour is NightWish and their latest CD "Human-II-Nature" is something else. The bass notes were just that with the existing system but now pound away. All other notes are far brighter.
The sub woofer does have a control for amplification and frequency that the video shows situated at the front of the car but only needs setting once so I left it in the boot stuck to the roof and out of the way.
Am I happy with it......yes very much but it did give me the willies installing it.
Certainly taking nothing from @Shahabbari though as you do need balls to pull a perfectly good car apart!
My kit arrived with an aluminium die cast sub woofer with inbuilt amplifier and a separate Digital Signal Processor amp along with two replacement rear shelf speakers and a wiring loom. They also enclose a few tools to remove the plastic pins and cable pulling devices.
There were no install notes or any paperwork at all in the box so I watched the install video which makes it look far easier than it is!
(8) Hansshow SR Audio Upgrade Version F installation tutorial - YouTube
Despite requesting a RH drive wiring loom, mine was definitely for a LH drive car as the existing amplifier is on the passenger side.
This caused quite a shortening of the wiring loom as the amplifier socket is now on the left of the car and caused the power connections that are connected under the rear seat to be short by about 8". If the loom wasn't so damn long though it would have been far worse as the amplifier connection is over a metre further away on our cars.
The rest of the loom was plenty long enough to reach the boot though.
There were also some adapter cables required where the loom should have had the correct gender phono plugs and I will be writing quite a critique to Hansshow as the wiring loom should be a point to point operation and not leave mountains of loose cable to lose.
Replacing the rear shelf speakers was a right bugger and at the time I wished that the loom connected directly to the original speakers. It does seem to as it breaks in to the existing loom at the rear seats but a separate loom feeds the new speakers direct from the DSP which sits under the centre console at floor level in a slot just big enough for it.
The rear speakers that came out have cardboard cones and look cheap, the new ones are in a solid aluminium spun case and have carbon fibre cones. They certainly look the part and its a pity they are hidden away.
What I will say is that it all worked first time. The sound is quite astounding and has moved the sound from a front weighting to somewhere in the centre of the car and certainly very immersive!
My group du jour is NightWish and their latest CD "Human-II-Nature" is something else. The bass notes were just that with the existing system but now pound away. All other notes are far brighter.
The sub woofer does have a control for amplification and frequency that the video shows situated at the front of the car but only needs setting once so I left it in the boot stuck to the roof and out of the way.
Am I happy with it......yes very much but it did give me the willies installing it.
Last edited:
Sixer
Member
@shahabbari Thank you so much for making those videos. I bought that kit back in December but then some ass**** went in the back of my car and it’s sat in the garage ever since waiting for a rear light cluster to arrive on the slow boat from China. All other parts are ready to fit to the car.
Anyway thanks again for the video! I will be fitting my harness when I get my car back.
Anyway thanks again for the video! I will be fitting my harness when I get my car back.
Does anyone know if the Version F kit includes the DIY Harness? (to activate the front speakers).
Thinking of getting the DIY kit first and then saving up for the Version F kit but if version F includes the DIY then i’ll just hold off for now.
Also i have the Sept 2020 build so no rear parcel speakers so i’ll have to cut holes. Anyone had any experience with this? Is it easy enough to do?
many thanks
Thinking of getting the DIY kit first and then saving up for the Version F kit but if version F includes the DIY then i’ll just hold off for now.
Also i have the Sept 2020 build so no rear parcel speakers so i’ll have to cut holes. Anyone had any experience with this? Is it easy enough to do?
many thanks
Sixer
Member
The kits are not modular. You buy the DIY kit if you just want to activate existing speakers. The more expensive kits with an amp/sub are a different loom entirely.
Rustybkts
Member
The Version F does work on all the speakers but different from the DIY kit is that I think they are all boosted through the DSP which does most if not all of the extra speakers.
Does your car have speaker grills in the rear parcel shelf? All the F kit does is remove the existing speakers, ignore the existing wiring and replace with new.
I would be surprised if Tesla used a different parcel shelf.
Whatever you do, do not pay the full amount as the 25% or more discount is claimed in a variety of ways and could possibly just be requested.
I have not compared to a LR car but for me the sound is superb now.
Sixer
Member
I fitted mine today. So glad I looked at the above videos. It’s fairly straightforward to install. I was only concerned about the car powering back on during the work and getting an error message that I then couldn’t clear. Luckily I had no problems. I am sure I have got the cabling correct but the drivers side tweeter (the one at head height is not working). Passenger side is fine. Connections all checked and secure. The sound is so much better even with one tweeter not working. Any suggestions to sort the tweeter issue?
Rustybkts
Member
I found when working on the car with it powered down that it only required the slightest tap of the brake pedal to wake up again. Opening doors also caused this.
My car must have been powered up/down at least a dozen times and I expected the worst, especially after tapping in to the supply under the rear seat but all powered up without any errors.
Loving the pounding bass and it moved the sound from a front bias to the centre of the car although more than a little expensive.
One oddity is that the indicator click is more noticeable as it issues from the speakers near my ears now. Is that the same on the LR/P premium system?
My car must have been powered up/down at least a dozen times and I expected the worst, especially after tapping in to the supply under the rear seat but all powered up without any errors.
Loving the pounding bass and it moved the sound from a front bias to the centre of the car although more than a little expensive.
One oddity is that the indicator click is more noticeable as it issues from the speakers near my ears now. Is that the same on the LR/P premium system?
Rustybkts
Member
I thought exactly the same. It's not intrusive but defo louder.Indicators are definitely louder
Rustybkts
Member
My full system has been working for a year now without a problem. Which kit are you using and is your car from Freemont or China?
Through some speculative ebay bidding I've ended up with two wiring harnesses that activate the four unwired front speakers and two rear speakers. Car is MIA early 2020 so all speakers are in place.
One kit is branded from Basenor. The other has no branding. I appreciate this thread discusses the Hansshow kits but many of the installation steps will be the same.
After watching various videos and trying to determine the differences in harness between LHD and RHD I've got a few questions:
1. Is there a connection to the rear speakers on the near side in RHD cars, as well as on the off side? (if not, the annotation on the image is most likely wrong and/or both kits are for LHD cars)
2. Do I need a powered sub to activate the parcel shelf speakers?
3. Any reason why the positioning of the connector annotated by the blue line is so different between the two cables?
Grateful for any tips or confirmation as to which cable will work if either/neither.
One kit is branded from Basenor. The other has no branding. I appreciate this thread discusses the Hansshow kits but many of the installation steps will be the same.
After watching various videos and trying to determine the differences in harness between LHD and RHD I've got a few questions:
1. Is there a connection to the rear speakers on the near side in RHD cars, as well as on the off side? (if not, the annotation on the image is most likely wrong and/or both kits are for LHD cars)
2. Do I need a powered sub to activate the parcel shelf speakers?
3. Any reason why the positioning of the connector annotated by the blue line is so different between the two cables?
Grateful for any tips or confirmation as to which cable will work if either/neither.
Been a long time since I did this (don't even have the car anymore)
Question 1. No the connection to the rear is down the offside
2. No, the speakers work fine with the current system
3. Possibly because the control system/amp is behind the glovebox on rhd cars. I had the issue where they sent me the wrong cable first off so was trying to get a lhd cable in to a rhd car...that did not work...
Thanks for the response.
I'm fairly certain then that both of these harnesses must be for LHD cars then. 99% sure that I've identified the MCU connector correctly in my image, which then given the connector for the rear speakers is on the off side, would not leave enough length to travel to the off side foot well, under the centre console then in to the MCU on the near side.
I'll maybe lay it out in the car to confirm but on both versions I would have expected a longer section of cable from the 'Y' to the MCU.
