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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)
- Thread starter InfinitySky
- Start date
Version E harness uses 14awg power and ground instead of 16awg. They could have sent you that?
For the error message try the hard reset by disconnecting the 12V and the penthouse battery as per the instructions by Mountain Pass Performance.
It's possible - but it seems to plug into my DSP and work as expected - so I guess it is ok?
Thanks - I'll try a hard reset at some point (I've heard it works, but I didn't know of a good tutorial for doing it).
You must've done this when you tapped the penthouse right?!
Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset | Mountain Pass Performance
No, I didn't. I asked if it was necessary and was told it was not. It was probably bad advice.
I received and finished installing version B today. Install was ok and overall sounds pretty good.
Just a couple of issues worth pointing out.
1. After installing, my rear right passenger door tweeter has some quiet static coming through. It’s only noticeable in a quiet environment. Any ideas on how to fix this would be great!
2. The back 2 speaker fades are still reversed. Will fix that when I have time.
I’m also curious on what subwoofer settings you guys have. I’m still in the process of adjusting it.
Overall the installation did improve sound quality, still looking to adjust some settings in the DSP program. Will update when I manage to fine tune things.
Just a couple of issues worth pointing out.
1. After installing, my rear right passenger door tweeter has some quiet static coming through. It’s only noticeable in a quiet environment. Any ideas on how to fix this would be great!
2. The back 2 speaker fades are still reversed. Will fix that when I have time.
I’m also curious on what subwoofer settings you guys have. I’m still in the process of adjusting it.
Overall the installation did improve sound quality, still looking to adjust some settings in the DSP program. Will update when I manage to fine tune things.
Search through this thread for posts from kingng3 and myself ... I think we've been the two discussing version B issues/settings the most. I posted my DSP settings file a few days ago.
I used the 12v and ground outlets from under the rear seats as they recommended. My car did however sleep overnight last night as my, but I’m assuming it just doesn’t sleep as quickly as it would normally sleep after 10 minutes of inactivity.
So, 7 days ago I installed the Ver. A. I wasn't happy with the performance of the the sub. I have a 10" JL Audio 10W3 on a custom fiberglass enclosure on my previous car. I was looking for enclosure the would fit the sub-trunk. I couldn't find one that would fit, it's either the enclosures is a tad bit taller or it would fit but the sub won't fit inside the enclosure.
This afternoon I installed a 10" Pioneer TS-A2500LB shallow mount pre-loaded enclosure. It's lighter than the Hansshow sub and fits nicely in the sub-trunk. I used a LOC instead of high level speaker input of the amp. I was going to mount the amp and LOC next to the sub but I went this route for cleaner look. I used the factory plastic cover to mount the hardwares.
The bass production is now true. It's sounds tight and compressed. I didn't expect a shallow sub could hit so hard. At 60% volume, the rear view mirror is shaking (I don't listen pass 50%. Only did it to test clipping and distortion). It is now complete and I'm really happy with the outcome. If I would have do it again. I would get just the DIY harness and install my own sub and enclosure.
This afternoon I installed a 10" Pioneer TS-A2500LB shallow mount pre-loaded enclosure. It's lighter than the Hansshow sub and fits nicely in the sub-trunk. I used a LOC instead of high level speaker input of the amp. I was going to mount the amp and LOC next to the sub but I went this route for cleaner look. I used the factory plastic cover to mount the hardwares.
The bass production is now true. It's sounds tight and compressed. I didn't expect a shallow sub could hit so hard. At 60% volume, the rear view mirror is shaking (I don't listen pass 50%. Only did it to test clipping and distortion). It is now complete and I'm really happy with the outcome. If I would have do it again. I would get just the DIY harness and install my own sub and enclosure.
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JBHemlock
Member
You've got 14awg power and ground wires on yours? My version E harness has 16awg. It's one of the prickly points for me about the upgrade, and I ended up buying some heavier wire to run back to the sub.
Currently the Hanshow shows these specs:
8 inches Subwoofer features:
Casing Aluminium Alloy
Dimension 240*325*70
Supply Voltage 11~15 DC
Power output 2Ohm RMS 200W
Power output 2Ohm PMPO 400W
15AMP fuse x 15 volts DC = 225w
A majority of amp manufacturers inflate their numbers. Hanshow may just copy and paste the specs provided by the supplier of the amp.
8 inches Subwoofer features:
Casing Aluminium Alloy
Dimension 240*325*70
Supply Voltage 11~15 DC
Power output 2Ohm RMS 200W
Power output 2Ohm PMPO 400W
15AMP fuse x 15 volts DC = 225w
A majority of amp manufacturers inflate their numbers. Hanshow may just copy and paste the specs provided by the supplier of the amp.
JBHemlock
Member
I suspect it's drawing less than that, honestly. If they shipped harnesses feeding it with a 16awg power wire, I wouldn't expect it to draw more than 10 amps. Though part of me is wondering if they simply assumed that most people would keep the volume turned down enough that it wouldn't draw at capacity...
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