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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

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Yes, it's way easier pulling the tweeter out and swapping the wires there. It's faster than removing the panels and bending over looking for wires in awkward position. Meanwhile while the tweeters were off, might as well add a hot glue to secure it. It should eliminate any future rattle. 20201217_130409.jpg


Yeah, I just swapped wires on the tweeters because it was out of phase and wasn't expecting the door woofers would start working again. I'm so happy the performance is back. I hope this fixes your issue.

Out of curiosity, is your version A using the DIY harness with the crossover box? No way a reversed polarity tweeter draws voltage away from the door woofer! I'm just a bit confused this worked. I mean I'm glad it worked for you though!
 
Out of curiosity, is your version A using the DIY harness with the crossover box? No way a reversed polarity tweeter draws voltage away from the door woofer! I'm just a bit confused this worked. I mean I'm glad it worked for you though!

No, my Ver. A didn't have any crossover box. I was wondering why it didn't have. I had the impression that any of the kit will have the same DIY wire harness.

I don't know why the woofer started working again. The door tweeters were really pronounced and overpowering the dash speakers when it was out of phase. Now, it is balanced.
 
Just installed two DIY harnesses. I noticed some things.
  • 2019 Model 3 tweeters (pillar speakers) at the top are working and warning chimes are not super loud.
  • 2020 Model 3 - March build with rear speakers — top tweeters (pillar) are not working and the warning chimes are super loud
  • Both kits did not have the rear speaker wires reversed. They were correct in terms on L and R.
Any way to fix the 2020 one? Everything was plugged in the same way as the 2019 one.

@Cici.Hung can you see if one of your engineers have a solution?
 
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Hi, to answer you questions. The door woofer was still working but underpowered. It was weak and could barely hear or feel it. Now, it's working as it should.


The passenger tweeter. I did it on the foot panel. It's the first picture (20201217_120241.jpg). It's the two wires. Basically just cut and swap the two wires. On the driver side. I swapped the wires on the tweeter wires instead. It's easier this way (20201217_121717.jpg). The picture were taken after I already swapped the wires. I cut and soldered and used Tesa tape. Here's how to remove the tweeter. It's very easy, just pull straight up.


I recommend getting a polarity tester. This is the one I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQ55QHL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know if the door tweeter in yours have reversed polarity or the A-pillar. The tool is very handy and cheap. It will save you time and headache figuring our which speaker(s) are out of phase.

Great post!

Based on your findings I used the polarity pop iPhone app to test. With mine the A-pillar speakers and rear left side shelf seem to have reversed polarity. I would like to change the wires in the Hansshow harness connectors in stead of cutting in the factory wires (already reversed left and right on the rear speakers). Any idea which wires these are? I first thought that the small footwell connector was for the A-pillar speaker, but based on your description thats for the door tweeter. Correct?
 
Great post!

Based on your findings I used the polarity pop iPhone app to test. With mine the A-pillar speakers and rear left side shelf seem to have reversed polarity. I would like to change the wires in the Hansshow harness connectors in stead of cutting in the factory wires (already reversed left and right on the rear speakers). Any idea which wires these are? I first thought that the small footwell connector was for the A-pillar speaker, but based on your description thats for the door tweeter. Correct?

Hi, yes. The two pin connector by the footwell are for the door tweeter. I don't know which wire is for the A-pillar.
 
in theory wrong polarity on one speaker will result in low bass due to cancelation of low frequencies, simple way to try to measure without instruments is to move the balance all the way to the driver position and then all the way to the passenger position, if one sounds fuller, most likely one of the speakers in the dull side is out of phase and is pulling instead of pushing cancelling out the other
 
Update from my version B install: swapped purple wires, no sound from sub. So Hansshow already fixed it, the sad part: sub is not very loud with max gain and 2/3 bass boost. I've increased bass boost to max, now I can hear the bass, but it is not that good. It is now loud enough and it is a good support using netflix and for the most songs, but personally I do not like the sound that much, the bass is not kicking. I had expected more from it. But I will keep it installed.
 
Update from my version B install: swapped purple wires, no sound from sub. So Hansshow already fixed it, the sad part: sub is not very loud with max gain and 2/3 bass boost. I've increased bass boost to max, now I can hear the bass, but it is not that good. It is now loud enough and it is a good support using netflix and for the most songs, but personally I do not like the sound that much, the bass is not kicking. I had expected more from it. But I will keep it installed.

I found it much better with full bass boost, but it still won't exactly kick ... not sure that's even possible from a shallow 8" sub (I'm not a sub expert).
 
Two weeks now after installing version B. Still running into the issue of loud gps/chimes/overall volume.

It usually happens when i start the car from after sleep, but it'll go away after a few minutes of driving. Anyone else run into anything similar? It's extremely annoying
 
Anyone here use the Tesla Offer diy harness? is it better at all, or at least does it not have the same problems as hansshow?

You picked the right company. Tesla Offer products are so much better! I use their trunk kit and it's awesome. No issues compared to the Hansshow products but sadly Raymond is too slow to bring out his audio package.

I know for a fact the Tesla Offer harness had no polarity or balance issues.
 
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You picked the right company. Tesla Offer products are so much better! I use their trunk kit and it's awesome. No issues compared to the Hansshow products but sadly Raymond is too slow to bring out his audio package.

I know for a fact the Tesla Offer harness had no polarity or balance issues.
Unfortunately I ordered the Hansshow DIY kit, but I'm seriously considering returning it and getting the Tesla Offer one. Just wanted to see if there was any issues with the Tesla Offer one before I go from one bad one to another.
 
Unfortunately I ordered the Hansshow DIY kit, but I'm seriously considering returning it and getting the Tesla Offer one. Just wanted to see if there was any issues with the Tesla Offer one before I go from one bad one to another.

I went with Hansshow mainly because of the crossover box. The TeslaOffer version doesn’t look like it has it. Their website for a while also said that their kit would wire the speakers in parallel and reduce impedance, but looks like they removed that messaging. Hopefully the Hansshow kit doesn’t have any issues (their customer service rep assured me all is fixed), but if it does I’ll return it and grab the TeslaOffer kit.
 
I went with Hansshow mainly because of the crossover box. The TeslaOffer version doesn’t look like it has it. Their website for a while also said that their kit would wire the speakers in parallel and reduce impedance, but looks like they removed that messaging. Hopefully the Hansshow kit doesn’t have any issues (their customer service rep assured me all is fixed), but if it does I’ll return it and grab the TeslaOffer kit.
That is how both of the “DIY” harnesses work, Teslaoffer or Hansshow doesn’t make a difference. Both company’s harnesses wire the extra speakers in parallel to the existing speakers. This lowers the impedance of the load, stressing the OEM amplifier.

I have purchased harnesses from both companies to use the connectors for making the harness I sell. The Teslaoffer harness did not include the bass blockers to filter low frequencies from the tweeters. The Teslaoffer harness connects to the overhead tweeters at the passenger side B-pillar, the Hansshow harness connects to these speakers in the drivers footwell. The Hansshow harness include the bass blocker but have incorrect wiring for the rear speakers.

Best of luck trying to return for a refund to a company in China. This isn’t like Amazon.
 
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That is how both of the “DIY” harnesses work, Teslaoffer or Hansshow doesn’t make a difference. Both company’s harnesses wire the extra speakers in parallel to the existing speakers. This lowers the impedance of the load, stressing the OEM amplifier.

I have purchased harnesses from both companies to use the connectors for making the harness I sell. The Teslaoffer harness did not include the bass blockers to filter low frequencies from the tweeters. The Teslaoffer harness connects to the overhead tweeters at the passenger side B-pillar, the Hansshow harness connects to these speakers in the drivers footwell. The Hansshow harness include the bass blocker but have incorrect wiring for the rear speakers.

Best of luck trying to return for a refund to a company in China. This isn’t like Amazon.
From your experience, is there one you would recommend? The Hansshow rep has assured me that the issues with polarity and balance have been fixed, but was there any other problems you've encountered?