I have followed everything here from the beginning and must say that I have gradually lost all faith in Hanshow. I am now looking at Teslaoffer harness but is it better put together, are the cables heavier? I plan to connect a subwoofer to it. Unfortunately, I am not an expert in this, but due to a lack of experts who can work on Tesla here in Belgium, I have to rely on myself. The sound system is the only downside to my SR + and would like to fix this. I come from an Audi with B&O and my wife's BMW is Harman Kardon so de diference is huge.
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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)
- Thread starter InfinitySky
- Start date
I think either brand will be fine for activating the 6 speakers. I still would go with Hansshow DIY because it's cheaper. Adding a subwoofer you only need tap to the door woofer for signal. At page 49, #976 @fritzner have a good write up. Buy an amp wiring kit that is recommended by the your amp manufacturer. I have installed sub in all my cars and our Model 3 is pretty easy to wire up an amp because of the power supply in the rear seat. BMW was even easier because the battery is located at the trunk.
Hi there,
I've installed version B yesterday and it just works fine. Fade is not not reversed, subwoofer got enough power (cables dont seem to be reversed) and all speakers are working. Only problem was that my emergency call system (necessary in EU) didn't worked, but the error disappeared after a few minutes.
I've just got problems on reinstalling the rear deck shelf. The red brake light won't come to its original position. Does anybode know on how to properly reinstall this shelf?
Photo is attached. The brake light is currently located in the orange area. Even with force I'm not able to get it into the right position.
I've installed version B yesterday and it just works fine. Fade is not not reversed, subwoofer got enough power (cables dont seem to be reversed) and all speakers are working. Only problem was that my emergency call system (necessary in EU) didn't worked, but the error disappeared after a few minutes.
I've just got problems on reinstalling the rear deck shelf. The red brake light won't come to its original position. Does anybode know on how to properly reinstall this shelf?
Photo is attached. The brake light is currently located in the orange area. Even with force I'm not able to get it into the right position.
For what it's worth, if I were to do it again I would probably still choose to buy Version B. From recent posts it even sounds like Hansshow has corrected the wiring harness (which was never a huge problem, just took longer to install than it should have). Could the sub be stronger ... yes, but I think that would cost significantly more. If you focus on the comments concerning version B I think you'll find most are pretty positive and satisfied with it.
Emcp422
Member
did you see the 4 little clip things in the shelf when you took it out, make sure they slide into their spots correctly when putting the shelf back into the car, mine did something similar when i replaced my shelf and then i realized those have to slide in.
Thank you
They were slided in already. There was a small paint bump, but I managed to get it in there.
After the installation is finished, I found out that the rear door speakers are still fine, but the shelf speakers are reversed. When I tested the system first, they were disconnected as I had the problems with installing the shelf. Also after the rear seats are back in place, the sub is barely to hear so I suspect the sub is also wired wrong, so I will try to fix that tomorrow.
But somehow I believe the door speakers got better now
JBHemlock
Member
My own take on it is that the Hanshow products are more of a work in progress, and as long as you treat them that way, I think they're a reasonable deal. I bought the version E, so this is all based on my experience with that prorduct. The DSP seems nice, though I don't think it's particularly powerful. Ditto the sub. To me, the wiring harness is the main issue. Some folks have received miswired harnesses, and I suspect this has to do with wiring coloration more than anything else - it's easy to miswire a harness when you've got 6 identical purple wires in it. I'm planning on using a multimeter to check all the wires, and swap any that are miswired.
The small gauge unfused power cables, on the other hand, are a bigger issue to me. The power wire running to the sub is completely unfused, and while the sub is fused, I wouldn't trust the 16awg wire to be able to handle a load that would blow the fuse on the sub. I did find an inline fuse on the power wire running to the DSP, but it's on the DSP side of the wire, not on the battery terminal side of the wire. Consider that the power wires hook up to the main battery at the penthouse, which is capable of pushing hundreds of amps through the 12V circuit. If there was a short anywhere in the power wire before it got to the inline fuse or the sub, I'm almost positive it would result in a fire.
What I've done is clipped the power terminal ring and removed the line to the sub entirely, leaving only the power wire for the DSP. I spliced an inline fuse holder to the power wire, and then crimped a new terminal ring to that, so I have a fuse right next to the car battery. I bought some 10awg wire and made a new set of power and ground wires for the sub, with an inline fuse right next to the positive terminal ring. Both power wires then are protected by fuses next to the positive terminal ring, so that a short in either line will blow the fuse. I'm going to use a 7.5 amp fuse on the DSP power wire, and a 20 amp fuse in the sub.
I'll take pictures as I install and post them here.
All that said, do I think it's worth it? I'm a pretty handy guy with electronics, so I'm fine with making these changes to the kit. My money, then, got me a good harness that's 95% done, a decent sub and a nice DSP, all for a fairly reasonable price. I'd been planning on building my own system, with wires spliced into the existing speaker wires, so this definitely makes things easier for me, even with the changes I've had to make to the harness. Would I buy the kit again? Probably, yeah. Would I be comfortable installing it as-is? Nope. Not in the least. The power wires give me the willies, and I think everyone who installs one of the powered versions needs to change the power wires in order to be safe.
UPDATE: Good News!
A little backstory. I realized after connecting the harness (ver. A) that the door tweeter and rear-passenger right shelf speaker were noticeably louder. I knew and had a hunch that there was something off.
I ordered a $13 polarity tester at Amazon. I tested all speakers and I was right on the money. The polarity are reversed on both door tweeters and passenger rear-right shelf speaker. I reversed the wirings and when I powered it up to test. The Door woofers came back to life. Right away I could feel the thump. Everything is sorted out now but Hansshow need to do a better job making their harness. Reversed polarity, left and right channel are reversed.
My system is now complete. You can't even tell I have a subwoofer because everything are in sync now. Before reversing the polarity on the tweeters. All of the mids and bass were coming from the trunk. Now, the bass is inside the cabin and not at back.
I have a question. I see the DIY has a box module. I'm assuming it's a crossover? My Ver. A harness doesn't have it. It seems like the door and pillar speakers are tapped in the door woofer. Wouldn't this kill the tweeter without using any crossover?
A little backstory. I realized after connecting the harness (ver. A) that the door tweeter and rear-passenger right shelf speaker were noticeably louder. I knew and had a hunch that there was something off.
I ordered a $13 polarity tester at Amazon. I tested all speakers and I was right on the money. The polarity are reversed on both door tweeters and passenger rear-right shelf speaker. I reversed the wirings and when I powered it up to test. The Door woofers came back to life. Right away I could feel the thump. Everything is sorted out now but Hansshow need to do a better job making their harness. Reversed polarity, left and right channel are reversed.
My system is now complete. You can't even tell I have a subwoofer because everything are in sync now. Before reversing the polarity on the tweeters. All of the mids and bass were coming from the trunk. Now, the bass is inside the cabin and not at back.
I have a question. I see the DIY has a box module. I'm assuming it's a crossover? My Ver. A harness doesn't have it. It seems like the door and pillar speakers are tapped in the door woofer. Wouldn't this kill the tweeter without using any crossover?
If there's a reduction in bass, the wire are reversed. I just fixed mine just posted it couple minutes ago. Hansshow kit are inconsistent. Some didn't see reduction in bass but left and channel are reversed. My Ver. A had reduction of the door woofer performance, which I just sorted out.
RedWhite19
Member
I can’t stress it enough but Tesla is doing a major disservice to its customers by not giving them an option on the audio systems. I paid extra for the red, wheels and white seats but didn’t have an option to pay extra for the audio system? I would’ve gladly paid the 2-3k extra for a better system, it would’ve just gone on my loan. Now, some of us SR+ owners have to look to other avenues to have an update system and most places charge 4-5k for a decent system. The SR+ audio system is just awful, it has no soul, at all. It is my weekend car, where my 3 series is my daily driver and when I listen to my 3 series system compared to the Tesla’s it is night and day.
I bought version B on Black Friday offer, installed it this weekend and I am very pleased with it. Had to reverse the grey and white wire pairs for the rear shelf speakers. Placed the DSP below the cavity between the front seats, put filt pads under it and secured it to the floor with strong tape so it wouldn't rattle. Sound is very good in my opinion and it works flawlessly with the sound system in the car. Thanks to this discussion thread and experience from others, this turned out to be a relatively easy task
I also ordered the DIY kit. It seems like the issues you are mentioning are happening to people who purchased the other versions. Once I install mine, I will keep you posted. If you happen to install yours before I do, please post in the thread about what you find
For what it's worth, I contacted Hansshow prior to purchasing, and I asked them about some of the issues people are seeing with the DIY kit (namely cut wires and reversed rear shelf speakers). He assured me that this has now been fixed.
Ry3n
Member
I'm curious if anyone has shipping confirmation on the Version F systems? They were supposedly ready on the 10th? No one has mentioned getting one in yet though.
I also ordered the DIY kit. It seems like the issues you are mentioning are happening to people who purchased the other versions. Once I install mine, I will keep you posted. If you happen to install yours before I do, please post in the thread about what you find
For what it's worth, I contacted Hansshow prior to purchasing, and I asked them about some of the issues people are seeing with the DIY kit (namely cut wires and reversed rear shelf speakers). He assured me that this has now been fixed.
Definitely let me know if you install it! I probably won't install mine until the spring, it's a little to cold to be working outside on my car!
This is great information and could help us early version E adopters get our door woofers working as they should.
Can you tell me exactly which wires you reversed polarity on? By reversing polarity on the tweeters, ended up activating your door woofers?
Or am I reading/understanding your post wrong?
Do you have pics of exactly which wires you switched? Or possibly an instructional video/guide?
Looking forward to your reply!
Hi, to answer you questions. The door woofer was still working but underpowered. It was weak and could barely hear or feel it. Now, it's working as it should.
The passenger tweeter. I did it on the foot panel. It's the first picture (20201217_120241.jpg). It's the two wires. Basically just cut and swap the two wires. On the driver side. I swapped the wires on the tweeter wires instead. It's easier this way (20201217_121717.jpg). The picture were taken after I already swapped the wires. I cut and soldered and used Tesa tape. Here's how to remove the tweeter. It's very easy, just pull straight up.
I recommend getting a polarity tester. This is the one I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQ55QHL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know if the door tweeter in yours have reversed polarity or the A-pillar. The tool is very handy and cheap. It will save you time and headache figuring our which speaker(s) are out of phase.
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Thanks for the speedy reply!
Yes my door woofers work but like yours, they are severely underpowered and barely noticeable.
Both my friend and I, who ordered version E, have the same issue. My other friend, ordered version B and didn't suffer the same fate, as his door woofers are unaffected.
So by reversing the two tweeter wires on both sides, fixed the weak door woofer issue? Wow, who would have guessed but koodos to you on figuring that out.
You figure it was much easier accessing and reversing the wires at the connection at the very tweeter vs. pulling off the panels on the side?
I will try your method hopefully this weekend and report back if that solves our door woofer issues also.
Really appreciate your posts and help!
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Yes, it's way easier pulling the tweeter out and swapping the wires there. It's faster than removing the panels and bending over looking for wires in awkward position. Meanwhile while the tweeters were off, might as well add a hot glue to secure it. It should eliminate any future rattle. 20201217_130409.jpg
Yeah, I just swapped wires on the tweeters because it was out of phase and wasn't expecting the door woofers would start working again. I'm so happy the performance is back. I hope this fixes your issue.
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