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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

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I’ve tried everything, spent 3 hours trying to get this plug out but still didn’t budge. The tab on the connector gets stuck in the middle and pushing it back up does nothing.
You could leave it inserted and connect the new harness to the Hansshow harness. All the connections pass through at the main computer plug. Then cut away the unneeded wires from the Hansshow harness.
 
I’ve tried everything, spent 3 hours trying to get this plug out but still didn’t budge. The tab on the connector gets stuck in the middle and pushing it back up does nothing.
Try using a metal pick. I have a set with different shapes. It's what I use disconnecting different Connectors. Specially on those hard to reach area. The 90° angled pick is my go to and what I use the most.
 
Just curious, Hannshow's description of the DIY Harness says:

4.For the DIY kit, with the addition of our crossover, the impedance of the audio system is the same as the original car, which is 4 ohms, no damage to the original AMP.

I am wondering if this is true, and if so, how can it be measured? Can anyone confirm this?
 
Just curious, Hannshow's description of the DIY Harness says:



I am wondering if this is true, and if so, how can it be measured? Can anyone confirm this?
Good question. I am curious how adding speakers in parallel while maintaining the same impedance. I guess one could take an ohm meter to the tapped speaker and measure before the harness install and measure again after the install.
 
Disappointed to hear it isn't true. What are the odds then that I ruin the factory amp if I listen between 75% to 85% volume?
My guess, and it is a guess only, but odds probably low. This is assuming oem speakers are 4 ohms and wiring another speaker in parallel creates a 2 ohm load. Just about all modern amps can run 2 ohm loads safely. If you look at amp specs on a car audio supplier site and check their cheapest amps, they mostly if not all, are rated at a 2 ohm load. So if the oem speaker impedance assumption is correct and the oem amp is built to at least similar build quality of most modern amps, then should be ok.
 
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My guess, and it is a guess only, but odds probably low. This is assuming oem speakers are 4 ohms and wiring another speaker in parallel creates a 2 ohm load. Just about all modern amps can run 2 ohm loads safely. If you look at amp specs on a car audio supplier site and check their cheapest amps, they mostly if not all, are rated at a 2 ohm load. So if the oem speaker impedance assumption is correct and the oem amp is built to at least similar build quality of most modern amps, then should be ok.

Thanks! I’ll take your word for it, and the fact that dozens of people in this thread have done it also lol.
 
I own a June 2019 build M3 SR+ and speakers are in-place. Here's my bet... the audio system/output between all versions of Model 3 (during this time) is 100% identical to that of the Premium/Performance models. IMO, if they did not eliminate the speakers from the assembly (which they did not) there is only a slim chance that their supplier seamlessly started making a different audio module for SR/SR+ production.... I would propose that the only difference is software function and the elimination of the cable - they were moving very fast at that time to build sales volume and the big cost reduction was the elimination of the front wheel drive and smaller battery. Certainly a service center could tell us if its the same audio head...(if they would be honest).

The only caveat is whether they are using a supplemental amplifier for the higher trim models - does anyone know that answer?

My plan is the DIY cable only - best bang for buck - and those that like excessive sub sound won't be able to argue anyway as they won't have any hearing in 15 years... (OMG I sound like my Father).
 
I own a June 2019 build M3 SR+ and speakers are in-place. Here's my bet... the audio system/output between all versions of Model 3 (during this time) is 100% identical to that of the Premium/Performance models. IMO, if they did not eliminate the speakers from the assembly (which they did not) there is only a slim chance that their supplier seamlessly started making a different audio module for SR/SR+ production.... I would propose that the only difference is software function and the elimination of the cable - they were moving very fast at that time to build sales volume and the big cost reduction was the elimination of the front wheel drive and smaller battery. Certainly a service center could tell us if its the same audio head...(if they would be honest).

The only caveat is whether they are using a supplemental amplifier for the higher trim models - does anyone know that answer?

My plan is the DIY cable only - best bang for buck - and those that like excessive sub sound won't be able to argue anyway as they won't have any hearing in 15 years... (OMG I sound like my Father).

From what I've heard, there is a seperate amp in the premium interior that runs the rear deck speakers and the subwoofer (see here).

From the others that have installed the DIY Harness, none that I know of have said there is any distortion or issues with installing the harness. The only concern would be long-term damage from a stressed amp, which is hard to predict or know considering the newness of this product and the lack of information on the specs of the amps included.
 
Just finished installing the DIY harness. Install wasn't very easy, but wow, what a huge difference it's made to the sound quality. I turned it up about 60-70% and it sounded great, sounds a lot more full and the tweeters make a huge difference. Also, I ordered in mid-December and can confirm they have fixed the reversed fader issue for the rear speakers. No issues with the door woofers, either. They are working normally!
 
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I have a Tesla M3 SR+. Delivery December 28 2020. The car does not come with the two rear speakers. I got the hansshow DIY kit iand popped open my passenger compartment and there is a missing input for the harness. :( Trying to return it. I've read on other threads that they're coming out with an update.
 
Just finished installing the DIY harness. Install wasn't very easy, but wow, what a huge difference it's made to the sound quality. I turned it up about 60-70% and it sounded great, sounds a lot more full and the tweeters make a huge difference. Also, I ordered in mid-December and can confirm they have fixed the reversed fader issue for the rear speakers. No issues with the door woofers, either. They are working normally!
what year is your Tesla
Just finished installing the DIY harness. Install wasn't very easy, but wow, what a huge difference it's made to the sound quality. I turned it up about 60-70% and it sounded great, sounds a lot more full and the tweeters make a huge difference. Also, I ordered in mid-December and can confirm they have fixed the reversed fader issue for the rear speakers. No issues with the door woofers, either. They are working normally!

when did you take delivery? I have a Tesla 2020 delivery on December 28th 2020 and my car was missing the input connected to the main harness. or did they move that input somewhere else?
 
what year is your Tesla


when did you take delivery? I have a Tesla 2020 delivery on December 28th 2020 and my car was missing the input connected to the main harness. or did they move that input somewhere else?

Congrats on the new ride! I took delivery of my car in December 2019. Yours is a 2021 model, I assume. Hansshow stated they’ll come out with a version of the harness for the 2021 models as the wiring is a little different.