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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

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So many questions. I have a 2020 with the premium sound system, so it already has functioning rear speakers and subwoofer. Honestly, the sound quality is pretty good overall, especially after putting some damping material on some of the panels.

I have no idea whether these Hansshow offerings would be helpful to me or not, especially given the price. Having access to a single 31-band EQ for the system would be nice, although it would be even nicer to have access to a per-channel parametric EQ that included active crossover adjustments. For example having LPF and HPF on each channel with up to a 48dB/octave Butterworth filter on it, and some true parametric adjustment between those bands.

My biggest issue with the stock system is that it really seems to lack headroom. It doesn’t really start getting loud until the volume control is almost all the way up, and at that point it seems to start audibly compressing dynamics, as though the amplifiers are running out of steam.

No idea whether the Hansshow offering is any better or not. Of course they will say it is, but it would be nice to know why and how.

This isn't the product for you. To get the top 5-10% out of your current system, you'll likely get this kit or go see a professional:
 
So many questions. I have a 2020 with the premium sound system, so it already has functioning rear speakers and subwoofer. Honestly, the sound quality is pretty good overall, especially after putting some damping material on some of the panels.

I have no idea whether these Hansshow offerings would be helpful to me or not, especially given the price. Having access to a single 31-band EQ for the system would be nice, although it would be even nicer to have access to a per-channel parametric EQ that included active crossover adjustments. For example having LPF and HPF on each channel with up to a 48dB/octave Butterworth filter on it, and some true parametric adjustment between those bands.

My biggest issue with the stock system is that it really seems to lack headroom. It doesn’t really start getting loud until the volume control is almost all the way up, and at that point it seems to start audibly compressing dynamics, as though the amplifiers are running out of steam.

No idea whether the Hansshow offering is any better or not. Of course they will say it is, but it would be nice to know why and how.
Do you have any friends near to you who have installed our system. You can try to test that.
If you need only a DSP, we can offer that to you.

Let me know if you have more questions.
 
Thank you for your concern and question.

We provide 8 inches subwoofer instead 5*8 just because the 8 inches bass effect is better than 5*8, 5*8 inches subwoofer do not have any problem. actually, the material cost is higher than 5*8. We help our client upgrade it free.
For the shipment test, we need time to test it.
We never face such a problem in China. In the first batch of shipments to North America, no problem. But a few weeks later, the problem happens randomly. Then we figure out a new version to ship it. That is not easy. We speed lots of time to change the design.

For the trunk canbus, we design the feature like that. Not mean the Canbus function not work. If the client needs a function like seat remind, the trunk can not open in D gear. That is easy for us to make it. Just need to change the data and upgrade it.
Not a problem for us. Problem is that we need to know that function is what client really want.
Because Model X, S trunk can open in D gear. We just want to follow the Tesla rules.
tesla always update it software, which make developing the product in this car become very difficult. We try to add few canbus releted funcion in the car to improve the use stanablilty.
Some of our client do not need the canbus, because they think it is trouble maker. We can make the trunk works without canbus.
Other company can not make it.

And since client need more remind function according to canbus, we add these feature now.
So it is not a technical problem, it is market problem.

For the auido upgrade, the software and signal wire problem already been solved.
You will see more and more good reviews about our product in the future.

You may misunderstand other people.

Each speaker in the car have it special tone purpose, like the subwoofer only output bass sound.
Only whole system in the car works in the same time, the sound effect will be great.
If you only use the central mid speaker. You can only hear the mid tone. That is not product problem. That is normal.

We already adjust the stereo based on general user.
If the client think sound for front left and right speaker is lound or low. They can use the DSP to adjust it himself.

Or if any one have spcial sound behavior like prefer heavy bass or prefer human vocal, we can launch-related data.

Hope I express myself clearly.


You say now that the 8" is better than the 5x8 which makes sense. However, the 10" was represented as great and some [people ordering the 10" ended up with a 5x8 instead. Those people were told the 5x8 was better than the 10" and if that's the case why change to the 8" which is the 3rd subwoofer. Seems anyone receiving the 5x8 is at a disadvantage. You mentioned a "few random problems with shipping damage" which seems like an odd reason to completely re-engineer a subwoofer to a different format rather than just improving the packing materials. Since now you've had 4 subwoofer versions, is there a 5th one coming soon? People will like knowing this to see if they should wait.

With respect to the trunk CANBUS I'm not sure I understand you. Are you saying Hansshow designed it so that it does nothing whether plugged in or not? Comparing functionality to the X and S doesn't make sense as both X and S from the factory do not have foot sensors and the chance of false triggering in D is slim to none. Whereas with a foot-sensor, a non-working CANBUS will still allow the trunk to be accidentally triggered with a parking curb, animal, or running water (like a car wash). These are not issues for the X and S. Also when you say "Other company can not make it" what does that mean? I assume you are talking about your competitor with a working CANBUS solution. Their CANBUS solution works exactly as it should which prevents the trunk from being able to open when in D and if you unplug their CANBUS connection it allows opening in D. Anyways, the power trunk is completely off topic and there is another thread discussing this as well as lots of videos comparing.

I'm glad to see that you state the signal wire problem has been solved. Seems people are still reporting multiple issues so hopefully these get sorted out soon by something simple like a firmware flash. My point is that these things should be sorted first before delivery rather than after to prevent people wasting time on diagnosing or paying someone to diagnose.

You mention that I "may misunderstand other people" but when they say they have problems such as reversed channels, overly loud chimes, overpowered centre channel, reduced bass at front door speakers, etc., it seems pretty straight forward that they are experiencing real problems. You may have misunderstood what people say about the centre speaker. You mention that the front dash speakers are only meant for mid-tones and this I agree. Obviously these small drivers cannot produce sub-bass so no sub-bass signal would be sent to these drivers. This was not the problem. The reported problem is not frequencies of the drivers, it is the fact the centre speaker is overpowered which means it is relatively louder than the left and right speaker. I assume this is not intentional or normal. The front 3 speakers should be even in output and if anything to preserve stereo effect, the centre may be a tad less but certainly not overpowered sounding.

Hopefully these issues are all fixed soon and when they are I'd happily recommend the system but it doesn't seem like it's quite there yet - al least for me. Certainly I don't want to install one in my friend's car at this point until I'm confident I don't have to spend a lot of additional time trouble-shooting.
 
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Has anyone here had a Hansshow-approved installer do the installation? I have the


I’m not in Vancouver... I’m on the Island. I’ve gone whole-hog and have Version F on the way. I’m planning to have it installed by an installer once Hansshow tells me who that is in Victoria.

They gave me a phone number in Richmond, but I don’t plan to have to go to the mainland when Hansshow has someone in Victoria.

Install Areas | Intelligentized Auto Parts | Hansshow
Hello MexiCanuck, I'm also on Vancouver Island (in Victoria), have ordered Version F, will need an installer (I've decided to do the rear shelf speaker install), and will keep watch here for further information.
 
Hi everyone. Just signed in on TMC to share my experience with the Hansshow professional set (the very first batch from
October). I and a few other French members of a Tesla forum have ordered it and several of us are somewhat unhappy with the result. Here is what we got :

7D981C21-40FD-4790-876F-9AAD711850AD.jpeg

While some songs sound great, other sound very flat. Before the kit, I had found a good setting on equalizer and never touched it again. Now it’s like each song need its own setting - that’s not great.

Do you guys have any DSP config file that we should try ? Does it need a firmware update ?

Also, as I said we ordered the very first batch and got heavy wood sub model, and mine came with the upper fixation broken. Can Hansshow make any exchange for it ?

Thank you for your answers.
 
Hi everyone. Just signed in on TMC to share my experience with the Hansshow professional set (the very first batch from
October). I and a few other French members of a Tesla forum have ordered it and several of us are somewhat unhappy with the result. Here is what we got :

View attachment 611351

While some songs sound great, other sound very flat. Before the kit, I had found a good setting on equalizer and never touched it again. Now it’s like each song need its own setting - that’s not great.

Do you guys have any DSP config file that we should try ? Does it need a firmware update ?

Also, as I said we ordered the very first batch and got heavy wood sub model, and mine came with the upper fixation broken. Can Hansshow make any exchange for it ?

Thank you for your answers.
Did you contact us before?
What is your order number WC-XXXXX, will help you check it.
 
You say now that the 8" is better than the 5x8 which makes sense. However, the 10" was represented as great and some [people ordering the 10" ended up with a 5x8 instead. Those people were told the 5x8 was better than the 10" and if that's the case why change to the 8" which is the 3rd subwoofer. Seems anyone receiving the 5x8 is at a disadvantage. You mentioned a "few random problems with shipping damage" which seems like an odd reason to completely re-engineer a subwoofer to a different format rather than just improving the packing materials. Since now you've had 4 subwoofer versions, is there a 5th one coming soon? People will like knowing this to see if they should wait.

With respect to the trunk CANBUS I'm not sure I understand you. Are you saying Hansshow designed it so that it does nothing whether plugged in or not? Comparing functionality to the X and S doesn't make sense as both X and S from the factory do not have foot sensors and the chance of false triggering in D is slim to none. Whereas with a foot-sensor, a non-working CANBUS will still allow the trunk to be accidentally triggered with a parking curb, animal, or running water (like a car wash). These are not issues for the X and S. Also when you say "Other company can not make it" what does that mean? I assume you are talking about your competitor with a working CANBUS solution. Their CANBUS solution works exactly as it should which prevents the trunk from being able to open when in D and if you unplug their CANBUS connection it allows opening in D. Anyways, the power trunk is completely off topic and there is another thread discussing this as well as lots of videos comparing.

I'm glad to see that you state the signal wire problem has been solved. Seems people are still reporting multiple issues so hopefully these get sorted out soon by something simple like a firmware flash. My point is that these things should be sorted first before delivery rather than after to prevent people wasting time on diagnosing or paying someone to diagnose.

You mention that I "may misunderstand other people" but when they say they have problems such as reversed channels, overly loud chimes, overpowered centre channel, reduced bass at front door speakers, etc., it seems pretty straight forward that they are experiencing real problems. You may have misunderstood what people say about the centre speaker. You mention that the front dash speakers are only meant for mid-tones and this I agree. Obviously these small drivers cannot produce sub-bass so no sub-bass signal would be sent to these drivers. This was not the problem. The reported problem is not frequencies of the drivers, it is the fact the centre speaker is overpowered which means it is relatively louder than the left and right speaker. I assume this is not intentional or normal. The front 3 speakers should be even in output and if anything to preserve stereo effect, the centre may be a tad less but certainly not overpowered sounding.

Hopefully these issues are all fixed soon and when they are I'd happily recommend the system but it doesn't seem like it's quite there yet - al least for me. Certainly I don't want to install one in my friend's car at this point until I'm confident I don't have to spend a lot of additional time trouble-shooting.

We already developed the best subwoofer for Model 3. OEM style aluminum shell subwoofer.
It is good enough for the client. Much better than OEM subwoofer. The bass speaker is special design, we add a proper
amp inside the subwoofer. Compare to some seller just only change the OEM subwoofer bass speaker,
but not change the amp, which can only improve bass sound a little (which can not provide enough power to the bass speaker). Ours do not have this problem. Ours works great.
You will know when some of your friends get the Version F audio system.


For the canbus, the first version mainly for slove the kick sensor problem.
The presently version. We have the warning information that you metioned.

For the speaker volume. We set a proper style, that can fit on the majority of client.
For some professional people like you, if you have your own style and do not like the default setting, you can use your laptop to set it.
Use our DSP or Screen EQ can make it easier.

Any other questions?
 
The more I listen to my diy harness, the more I think those who have noticed a lack of bass after the install might be on to something. From listening to songs I know well, there are definitely times when I feel like the bass is missing. But then there are times when the bass sounds fine. I'm wondering if they have the polarity wrong on one of the door woofers that is cancelling out the other and the reason it sometimes sounds ok is when that particular song only has bass on one channel. That's my theory.

It also feels like the chimes and other sounds seem louder. I'm toying with undoing the harness and making some measurements with my spl meter to see if this is the case.

Has anyone run a frequency sweep before and after the install?
I have definitely noticed a lack of bass since installing my DYI harness. I also reached out to Hanshow because my rear speakers are swapped left is right, right is left. I have yet to hear back. I love having the extra speakers, but feel the overall fullness is gone.
 
I have definitely noticed a lack of bass since installing my DYI harness. I also reached out to Hanshow because my rear speakers are swapped left is right, right is left. I have yet to hear back. I love having the extra speakers, but feel the overall fullness is gone.
Please @ me in the group, we will solve your swapped problem.
And for the lack of bass problem, you need a subwoofer, the subwoofer can make your fullness feel back and better than before.
 
Please @ me in the group, we will solve your swapped problem.
And for the lack of bass problem, you need a subwoofer, the subwoofer can make your fullness feel back and better than before.
William, @you in which group? I was happy with the bass in the existing set up of the car and figured that if I could activate the other speakers for $80, an hours worth of work, and keep the same sound; it was worth it. It seems like, and this is only based on your response, you designed the DYI harness to decrease the bass to have me spend $600 or $700 and upgrade to the more expensive option.
 
William, @you in which group? I was happy with the bass in the existing set up of the car and figured that if I could activate the other speakers for $80, an hours worth of work, and keep the same sound; it was worth it. It seems like, and this is only based on your response, you designed the DYI harness to decrease the bass to have me spend $600 or $700 and upgrade to the more expensive option.
DIY cable only have the function to activate the 6 speakers. We do not make the bass sound weak on purpose.
Different products have different functions and user experiences.
 
Hi William, @William_Chan

I just bought the version B speaker upgrade yesterday. I was wondering if the issues have been fixed (reverse sound, lack of bass from sub). Once I get it, is it just install and all good or do I have to do a firmware update for the dsp?

Thanks!
They posted the software and DSP update for version B. It is here: https://github.com/Hansshow/Model-3-SR-Audio-Upgrade-Version-B-DSP-software. I'm interested to know the answer to the other part of your question ... my Version B should arrive today.