Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[kiNGng3]

Is it the fix for reversed balance? Hansshow said ot’s not

It's polarity or phase. Watch this to understand:

 

[White Walt]

Just finished installing Hansshow Professional with sub and harnesses. The sound is definitely off.

The door chimes are very loud, front centre speaker seems overpowered compared to other and, strangest of all, there is a constant hissing noise even with music off that comes from the front centre speakers. The hissing goes away when I turn on the rear defroster.

Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix? Thanks.

 

[tlr1000]

Just finished installing Hansshow Professional with sub and harnesses. The sound is definitely off.

The door chimes are very loud, front centre speaker seems overpowered compared to other and, strangest of all, there is a constant hissing noise even with music off that comes from the front centre speakers. The hissing goes away when I turn on the rear defroster.

Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix? Thanks.

Did you ask Hansshow if there's a fix for the overly loud chime volume and overpowered centre speaker? My guess is that the loud centre speaker is the one they tapped to drive the other speakers and caused impedance to go down (for example from 4 ohm to 2 ohms) making volume go up and besides an unbalanced sound, the amp channel driving that louder speaker will work harder. As for hissing, that could be a grounding issue - assuming you have a DSP amp. If so, where did you ground it? The general rule of thumb for grounding is at the source unit (in this case probably same grounding spot as ice computer) or the shortest run from your amp.

 

[William_Chan]

Thanks! However, like the version E software, this one is also being detected as a virus by Microsoft Windows Antivirus (Defender). Is this a false detection?

It is not a virus software, just click trust the software and install it. Update the data with the guide, you will like the update.

 

[William_Chan]

How about you be more professional! I know what a LPF is and know how to use the adjustment dials and it's clear from the many posts from above. It still doesn't mean if you set the cutoff to 40Hz it is capable of playing those frequencies. Maybe the new subwoofer file fixed it? I don't know? My opinion is based on the original from factory.

Maybe next time you send products that work right out of the box, William!

Product already solved the issue.
We ship the right setting audio system now.

 

[William_Chan]

Is this kit worth it? It seems like people are having a lot of issues, and I don’t want to be a guinea pig on a $500+ product.

What’s everyone’s thoughts on ordering the DIY kit, and then installing a brand name subwoofer along with it?

Privous issue already been solved already. New shipped no need to do software adjustment.

 

[William_Chan]

My friend was looking at buying this based on the 25% discount but my advice to him was to wait as there seem to be a lot of problems. Things like mixed up balance or fader in at least one review I saw would give me pause and if that part isn't correct there could also be other issues that are harder to notice like polarity. I suppose if you had the patience and skill, you can sort out these issues and start cutting wires and re-soldering them to get everything sorted properly. The other issue that I find questionable is in such a short time they have gone through 4 variations of subwoofers starting with a 10" MDF which got discontinued in a very short time and then replaced with an oval 5x8 which was claimed as improved, which is hard to believe (but not impossible I suppose), that its better than a 10" round for subwoofer duty. Shortly after there was an 8" round in an underseat style enclosure and now they've introduced their 4th sub enclosure. Are they engineering and developing that fast or just rushing things onto the market? I'd wait until the dust settles and also give time to see if there are other players with audio solutions. The advantage of the Hansshow stuff is the bracketing that can bolt up to the car easily but to answer your question either wait or buy name brand sub and get custom bracket made.

It seems like you did not know our product and just get these information others.
Please find any of your friend who have this product and test it yourself, then give us your opinoin. Thank you.

We do not sell 10 inches subwoofer is becuase the goods is heavy and easy to broken during shipping. The audio sound effect is excellent.

Our new version subwoofer volume is small, but it can provide enough bass for client. We can save lots of ship cost, make the price lower so that client can get the goods with a better price. Not like some seller sell some speakers with usd 1800.

For the balance issue, just need to update our software data, problem can be solved. Just like power trunk data upgrade.

Yes, we are always try our best to developing better product for client. For the new version F development, we cost a lot, we design it based on LR plastic subwoofer, but we use a better material to make it, with bose speaker materail and aluminium subwoofer shell, excellent sound effect, which is times better than OEM subwoofer. Even our 8 inches thin subwoofer sound effect is better than OEM subwoofer. You can use a LR car to conpare that.

Anyway, thank you for your concern, let me know if you have any other question.

We are always willing to help you regarding our product.

My friend was looking at buying this based on the 25% discount but my advice to him was to wait as there seem to be a lot of problems. Things like mixed up balance or fader in at least one review I saw would give me pause and if that part isn't correct there could also be other issues that are harder to notice like polarity. I suppose if you had the patience and skill, you can sort out these issues and start cutting wires and re-soldering them to get everything sorted properly. The other issue that I find questionable is in such a short time they have gone through 4 variations of subwoofers starting with a 10" MDF which got discontinued in a very short time and then replaced with an oval 5x8 which was claimed as improved, which is hard to believe (but not impossible I suppose), that its better than a 10" round for subwoofer duty. Shortly after there was an 8" round in an underseat style enclosure and now they've introduced their 4th sub enclosure. Are they engineering and developing that fast or just rushing things onto the market? I'd wait until the dust settles and also give time to see if there are other players with audio solutions. The advantage of the Hansshow stuff is the bracketing that can bolt up to the car easily but to answer your question either wait or buy name brand sub and get custom bracket made.

 

[black+white]

Check it out:

Model 3 SR Premium Audio Upgrade | Intelligentized Auto Parts | Hansshow

Version F: 1 DSP with 31 segments, 2 HIFI rear surround speakers, 1 OEM Style Premium Subwoofer,Special design 8 inches OEM style subwoofer, aluminium shell, much better sound effect than LR, DM’s OEM plastic shell subwoofer. With AMP inside.

 

[White Walt]

Did you ask Hansshow if there's a fix for the overly loud chime volume and overpowered centre speaker? My guess is that the loud centre speaker is the one they tapped to drive the other speakers and caused impedance to go down (for example from 4 ohm to 2 ohms) making volume go up and besides an unbalanced sound, the amp channel driving that louder speaker will work harder. As for hissing, that could be a grounding issue - assuming you have a DSP amp. If so, where did you ground it? The general rule of thumb for grounding is at the source unit (in this case probably same grounding spot as ice computer) or the shortest run from your amp.

Thanks for your reply. I did ask Hansshow. They were initially very responsive on Whatssapp but then went dark for a few hours at around 12pm Chinese time. I’m still waiting for any useful guidance from them.

I put the harness ground to the terminal under the rear passenger door. Saw this done in two other YouTube videos. Is there a better ground to use nearer to the OEM amp?

 

[William_Chan]

Thanks for your reply. I did ask Hansshow. They were initially very responsive on Whatssapp but then went dark for a few hours at around 12pm Chinese time. I’m still waiting for any useful guidance from them.

I put the harness ground to the terminal under the rear passenger door. Saw this done in two other YouTube videos. Is there a better ground to use nearer to the OEM amp?

Which group are you in? Please @ me, will chat with you there.

 

[White Walt]

Which group are you in? Please @ me, will chat with you there.

Thanks William. We connected on Whatssap. Looking forward to your help solving this.

 

[Alien8er]

Is it the fix for reversed balance? Hansshow said ot’s not

Swapping the wire did not change the balance. Just the polarity. My videos I have been posting go through fixing the balance and fader in their DSP software. I've seen some posts after this where Hansshow said they have corrected the issue, but I don't know if that means they uploaded new software in the DSP or if that was changing the wire. I wouldn't advise everyone to immediately cut the wire and swap. YMMV. I seemed to have gotten one of the very early harnesses for this version so maybe something was off.

My sub before the swap of the cable was pretty much reversed. When I faded front left it would sound ok, but then I lost the sound from all the other speakers. I wasn't getting a rich bass sound. After the cable swap I noticed that I am not getting as much bass out of the doors as before even if I slide the fader there. Funny enough, I actually have way too much bass now, but that's because I had my gain and bass boost up quite high. I need to tune it better. I wish hansshow would have included tiny knobs like the ones below since the position of the amp/sub in the trunk doesn't let you access those easily!

 

[tlr1000]

Thanks for your reply. I did ask Hansshow. They were initially very responsive on Whatssapp but then went dark for a few hours at around 12pm Chinese time. I’m still waiting for any useful guidance from them.

I put the harness ground to the terminal under the rear passenger door. Saw this done in two other YouTube videos. Is there a better ground to use nearer to the OEM amp?

You may want to make sure the ground is making a good contact. May require removing, cleaning, reattaching. Anyways I see that you have been offered support offline. Be good to share what your findings are as others seem to be having issues as well. Even better if solutions were all kept online here for community knowledge unless your problem is a one-off that doesn't apply to anyone else.

 

[Alien8er]

Did you ask Hansshow if there's a fix for the overly loud chime volume and overpowered centre speaker? My guess is that the loud centre speaker is the one they tapped to drive the other speakers and caused impedance to go down (for example from 4 ohm to 2 ohms) making volume go up and besides an unbalanced sound, the amp channel driving that louder speaker will work harder. As for hissing, that could be a grounding issue - assuming you have a DSP amp. If so, where did you ground it? The general rule of thumb for grounding is at the source unit (in this case probably same grounding spot as ice computer) or the shortest run from your amp.

Hansshow told me they don't touch the center speaker. The tap the front left and right. If I hit mute all on the DSP i only hear the center speaker. It does sound muffled and I tried to explain it as crackly, like someone crumpling paper lightly. That didn't translate well in Chinese lol.

 

[Alien8er]

I put the harness ground to the terminal under the rear passenger door. Saw this done in two other YouTube videos. Is there a better ground to use nearer to the OEM amp?

I put mine next to the 12v terminal and it seems to be functioning fine.

 

[tlr1000]

It seems like you did not know our product and just get these information others.
Please find any of your friend who have this product and test it yourself, then give us your opinoin. Thank you.

We do not sell 10 inches subwoofer is becuase the goods is heavy and easy to broken during shipping. The audio sound effect is excellent.

Our new version subwoofer volume is small, but it can provide enough bass for client. We can save lots of ship cost, make the price lower so that client can get the goods with a better price. Not like some seller sell some speakers with usd 1800.

For the balance issue, just need to update our software data, problem can be solved. Just like power trunk data upgrade.

Yes, we are always try our best to developing better product for client. For the new version F development, we cost a lot, we design it based on LR plastic subwoofer, but we use a better material to make it, with bose speaker materail and aluminium subwoofer shell, excellent sound effect, which is times better than OEM subwoofer. Even our 8 inches thin subwoofer sound effect is better than OEM subwoofer. You can use a LR car to conpare that.

Anyway, thank you for your concern, let me know if you have any other question.

We are always willing to help you regarding our product.

Thanks for the response. What I know about the Hansshow audio products is based on what members post as problems they've experienced and are still experiencing. Also based on reviews and videos of actual experiences by purchasers.

The discontinued 10" because it broke easily during shipping tells me either the product was designed with a weak point or not enough care was taken for packaging. Lots of companies are able to ship more fragile items without them consistently breaking in transit. The replacement 5x8 was represented as better than the 10" yet it is already discontinued and replaced with an 8" round in a small rectangular box. Was there a problem with the 5x8 and why it was discontinued in such a short time-frame?

I'm glad to see the balance issue fixed. IMHO this should have been tested and working before even going to market. This issue although fixable nevertheless causes problems for buyers in extra wasted time installing and trying to figure out if they've done something incorrectly and worse for those that are paying for an installer's time, this is an extra cost because it wasn't tested before shipping.

Since you've brought up the power trunk that's a perfect example. This was shipped with a CANBUS connector that had no functionality. Even after the first firmware revision, it still didn't work. I know this as I helped install one and wasted quite a bit of time diagnosing why the CANBUS feature did not work. I had thought it was wiring or install but then found that it was because Hansshow didn't even write the proper firmware for this safety feature to work. Has this been fixed now?

At the end of the day, my view is that products should be tested thoroughly before being sold. If that was done, this whole thread would be people just glowing about how much they like the system rather than people sharing problems.

This audio upgrade does look like a good option to improve the SR+ system but I can not recommend it to a friend until all the problems are worked out mentioned by members above. My friend who's planning to buy an upgrade wants me to help install and I certainly don't want to spend a bunch of time diagnosing and correcting design problems until that's all fixed and then I'd be happy to recommend it and help install it.

 

[tlr1000]

Hansshow told me they don't touch the center speaker. The tap the front left and right. If I hit mute all on the DSP i only hear the center speaker. It does sound muffled and I tried to explain it as crackly, like someone crumpling paper lightly. That didn't translate well in Chinese lol.

That's an odd problem then. A crackly speaker can be a sign it's blown but if it is, it doesn't make sense it's louder than the other two speakers. Did they have an answer? Is the centre speaker louder because power has been reduced to left/right? Is there a way to turn the gain up on left/right to the same volume output as the centre? Hopefully, there's no damage to the centre speaker or ice amp as it will probably no longer qualify for warranty.

 

[Chetanh]

So am i right in saying that the 1121 upgrade and switching the sub wires will fix the balance and the bass issues?

Am busy with honeydo list all weekend but should have some time Monday evening to load the new software.

 

[Willberightbac]

I ordered Kit A. All the kit should come with a harness to activate the inactive speakers. Just select no speaker.
Model 3 Premium Audio Upgrade | Intelligentized Auto Parts | Hansshow

Maybe it's just me but I find the sound is be a bit degraded. The 4 speakers give the sound a nice higher sound stage, but there seems to be significant loss of bass from the front door speakers. I hardly notice the sound from the rear speakers.


You do know that "bose" speakers are garbage, right? They're hardly "diamond level" speakers. Consumer level Infinity are better with Focal being the "diamond level" upgrade. Don't believe the hype.


I noticed that too. The signal path seems really strange. The front door speakers aren't powered on until you hookup the plug in the back. There's also a noticeable loss in bass from the front door speakers. Can you give it a listen and tell me if that's in your case? Maybe my unit is defective... I prefer the stock sound since it has a fuller range with more bass.

 

[Willberightbac]

Installed the harness to activate the 6 inactive speakers in the 2019 m3. I definitely noticed a loss of bass from the door speakers. The highs were improved but still no matter how I adjusted the sound, the stock system still sounded noticeably better so I took the harness off and sold it.

I'm thinking about picking up the Version A without the rear speakers option. I'll have someone install this when I get it. I'm hope the install can leave the stock system alone and just have sub/amp going and provide the bass I'm looking for.