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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

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I don't have the 'new' Hansshow speakers, just the ones that came with my car. I'm a little confused though. I'll wait to clarify with Hansshow later today and will report back.

What I did was to just connect the "full length cabling for 'new' speakers" to the cut ones on the connector. Easier than removing the tape to access where it was cut, and you have more slack to work with.

Edit: Yes, if you can de-pin the connector you should be able to reconnect the new speaker cables to them. I didn't de-pin the connector so I couldn't tell you how difficult it would be to remove the wire stub and connect the new. My guess is that it might not be too difficult because one of mine actually came out when I pulled on it it to strip it.
 
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What I did was to just connect the "full length cabling for 'new' speakers" to the cut ones on the connector. Easier than removing the tape to access where it was cut, and you have more slack to work with.

Edit: Yes, if you can de-pin the connector you should be able to reconnect the new speaker cables to them. I didn't de-pin the connector so I couldn't tell you how difficult it would be to remove the wire stub and connect the new. My guess is that it might not be too difficult because one of mine actually came out when I pulled on it it to strip it.

I note that the cut wires are gray, gray+black, white, and white+black. The four uncut speaker wires are both white and white+black. How did you determine which wires go into which on the connector?
 
I got my version B today. The loom does have the cables cut going into the rear speaker plug - but it also has the full length of cabling for the 'new' speakers that I did not buy. I was initially tricked by the fact that the cut wires were inside the tesa tape, so I didn't actually see them. I guess I can pull out the four cut cables and put in the 'new' speaker cable into the plug itself?

View attachment 613529
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That's what I did. I can confirm to you that white goes to grey and white/black goes to grey/black. Otherwise you will have reversed balance.

FD793337-03AE-4330-9B40-232E2DA80B6C.jpeg


FYI - I heat shrank the final product after reversing the colours
 
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correct me if I am wrong on this but the stock premium audio uses 2 amps to power everything and the partial premium only one, by activating all other speaker with that single amp, wont you be forcing the same the amp to distribute the same amount of power into more outputs, therefore lowering the power to each of them including the door subs, causing the reduction in bass people are experiencing with the DIY cable?
 
correct me if I am wrong on this but the stock premium audio uses 2 amps to power everything and the partial premium only one, by activating all other speaker with that single amp, wont you be forcing the same the amp to distribute the same amount of power into more outputs, therefore lowering the power to each of them including the door subs, causing the reduction in bass people are experiencing with the DIY cable?

On Tesla's webpage it says:

Partial Premium Interior Includes:
  • Upgraded audio – immersive sound
Premium Interior Includes:
  • Premium audio – 14 speakers, 1 subwoofer, 2 amps, and immersive sound
Presumably then the partial premium has a single amp.

Here's some additional info from TeslaTap.com (Audio Systems for the Model 3 – TeslaTap) showing differences between the systems:

model 3 sound.JPG
 
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I'll be honest, I was super excited to activate the rear shelf speakers and ordered Version A of the Hansshow kit but now I'm getting nervous. Not only have I sent two messages requesting the status of my order, which was placed nearly a month ago, and heard nothing back but, it's sounding like I'll need to reconfigure the wiring harness they'll be sending to me... I have a couple of Model 3 owners in the area that were eager to see the results of my purchase but at this point I don't know how I can recommend the product or company. I suppose we'll see if I hear anything by next Monday.

I also ordered Ver. A last Nov. 2. I still haven't heard anything. I whatsapp Cici inquiring my order. I'm just getting caught up reading the thread. It seems like we have more people having problems and it's making me anxious.
 
That's what I did. I can confirm to you that white goes to grey and white/black goes to grey/black. Otherwise you will have reversed balance.

View attachment 613624

FYI - I heat shrank the final product after reversing the colours

I literally just got done soldering my wires back together (which didn't go perfectly as one wire pulled out from the plug taking a third of the wire with it)! But I followed the guidance they gave me to keep the colours the same

Can the balance issue be fixed in the DSP? Probably not ...
 
Yes you can swap the input and output channels

Ok...I hope my soldering was adequate. I was very disappointed when one of the short cut wires pulled out of the plug, leaving me with two-thirds of the bare wires exposed. I just soldered directly to those and will hope for the best....
 
For what it is worth, the after sales folks at Hansshow are certain I do not need to change from what I did, which was to match the colours and solder them together. They say I have a different version of the harness than you and it is not necessary....
 
For what it is worth, the after sales folks at Hansshow are certain I do not need to change from what I did, which was to match the colours and solder them together. They say I have a different version of the harness than you and it is not necessary....

Sure, we both have version B's. Test your fade and balance. That may very well be true because we don't know how consistent there products are from one person to another.
 
Sure, we both have version B's. Test your fade and balance. That may very well be true because we don't know how consistent there products are from one person to another.

Exactly. I was going to post that the only way to be sure is trial and error (connect one speaker at a time)- no point in even trying to figure out the grey vs white pairs because we don't know if they are consistent. Also, I don't think it is possible to swap using the version B DSP (but I could be wrong ... I just didn't see any way of doing that with the software).
 
Are the cables really lhd/rhd specific? I have no experience, but I'm pretty sure there would be no difference. There are really 3 main connection points to the factory wiring: at the amp (passenger footwell), for the front speakers (left side door + passenger footwell - same area as amp), for the rear speakers (right passenger seat). I can't see why they would move any of these for lhd. Opening up these areas is really pretty easy if you have the right tools (which are inexpensive). I started by opening everything up first (to get over the worries) and then starting the install.

So there is a difference...

The rear shelf connector is on the right hand side of the car
The blue cable connection by the door is on the left hand side
The what I assuming is the amp is tucked up behind the glove box on the left hand side as well...I think that is the only think that maybe different. It's effectively had to swap because the steering rack gets in the way.
 
So there is a difference...

The rear shelf connector is on the right hand side of the car
The blue cable connection by the door is on the left hand side
The what I assuming is the amp is tucked up behind the glove box on the left hand side as well...I think that is the only think that maybe different. It's effectively had to swap because the steering rack gets in the way.

hmmm ... I don't think the amp will be on the left hand side as that would require Tesla to run a lot of different wiring from lhd (something they would avoid due to costs). I don't see how the steering rack would be in the way of the amp which is tucked all the way on the side of the footwell away from where the rack goes. Keep us posted!
 
I also ordered Ver. A last Nov. 2. I still haven't heard anything. I whatsapp Cici inquiring my order. I'm just getting caught up reading the thread. It seems like we have more people having problems and it's making me anxious.
Absolutely agree. This thread has brought up a lot of questions. At this point, I'm not even sure what I'm going to receive from Hansshow let alone when it's going to arrive. Questionable products and non-existent customer service seems like a recipe for disaster.
 
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Absolutely agree. This thread has brought up a lot of questions. At this point, I'm not even sure what I'm going to receive from Hansshow let alone when it's going to arrive. Questionable products and non-existent customer service seems like a recipe for disaster.

in fairness to Hansshow, they have followed up and answered every question I sent them, so my experience with their customer service has been good. I agree they were very sloppy in not getting the wiring harness right (the sub phase, right/left speakers, etc.).
 
hmmm ... I don't think the amp will be on the left hand side as that would require Tesla to run a lot of different wiring from lhd (something they would avoid due to costs). I don't see how the steering rack would be in the way of the amp which is tucked all the way on the side of the footwell away from where the rack goes. Keep us posted!

if you watch some of hansshow's videos they install the harness in a rhd 3. I forget which side the amp is on, though.
 
if you watch some of hansshow's videos they install the harness in a rhd 3. I forget which side the amp is on, though.

That maybe explains why I was expecting to find the amp in the center console, lol! I did watch a lot of their videos and came away thinking it was in the center of the car. Would make sense if it was a rhd car in the video with the amp on right side.