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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?

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You don't know Hansshow have 2 version ? That's funny. Hansshow have DIY version, that's the version you saw on video they tape together, but not need to cut any wire. Just for pass the tube more easier , customer could do DIY simple. Another version is plug and play version. Just connect the plug directly. Hansshow always emphise the safety for the car. None of any kits need to cut any wire.

The other kit you mentioned was also noted in the video posted above. However that kit is only available to professional installers. It is not offered to consumers as DIY.
 
The other kit you mentioned was also noted in the video posted above. However that kit is only available to professional installers. It is not offered to consumers as DIY.
@tlr1000 @kiNGng3 FYI I think that @Cici.Hung works for Hansshow.

I ordered from Hansshow and I got the DIY kit with the wires that have to be joined, and I actually really appreciated that because it meant it was much easier to fish the cable up to the trunk lid, and then join the cables together after fishing just the wires. That avoids having to fish any big connectors up the lid that is a real pain.

I may have forgotten, but how does TO’s kit accomplish this? Presumably it still requires fishing something up to the trunk lid? Does that not involve connectors that are difficult to fit through the tube/conduit?
 
@tlr1000 @kiNGng3 FYI I think that @Cici.Hung works for Hansshow.

I ordered from Hansshow and I got the DIY kit with the wires that have to be joined, and I actually really appreciated that because it meant it was much easier to fish the cable up to the trunk lid, and then join the cables together after fishing just the wires. That avoids having to fish any big connectors up the lid that is a real pain.

I may have forgotten, but how does TO’s kit accomplish this? Presumably it still requires fishing something up to the trunk lid? Does that not involve connectors that are difficult to fit through the tube/conduit?

TO requires fishing a single wire to the frunk lid that has a small plastic connector attached to it. Surprisingly, less time was spent on the fishing exercise with the TO install than the HS install even though the TO kit has the plastic molex. Even though the HS kit didn't need the plastic connector to be fished, it took considerably more effort and the exact same cable pulling lubricant was used. This could possibly be because the actual wire itself is thinner on TO. With HS it's a thicker bundle of wiring that gets fished up the lid whereas with TO the wiring is much thinner as they have a junction box that is mounted to the inside of the lid. After installing both kits, the TO just seems to be better thought out and easier to install.
 
@tlr1000 @kiNGng3 FYI I think that @Cici.Hung works for Hansshow.

I ordered from Hansshow and I got the DIY kit with the wires that have to be joined, and I actually really appreciated that because it meant it was much easier to fish the cable up to the trunk lid, and then join the cables together after fishing just the wires. That avoids having to fish any big connectors up the lid that is a real pain.

I may have forgotten, but how does TO’s kit accomplish this? Presumably it still requires fishing something up to the trunk lid? Does that not involve connectors that are difficult to fit through the tube/conduit?

CiCi may work at HS? I installed both HS V4 and TO mark2.5. Both are easy but tlr1000 is mentioning potential issues for DIYers.

I think HS has some great things to their kit and TO has some great things to their kit.
 
Do you guys think Tesla will cause the same troubles with the powered liftgate mods like they just did in 2020.32 and the Igenext Boost 50?
Why would they? They're completely different beasts. One is a cheaper version of a Tesla option that causes extra stress to the car and can results in additional warranty claims. The other is a powered lift gate.
One seriously messes around with the can bus to alter the car's performance.
The other just monitors the can bus so the trunk doesn't open when the car is moving.
 
Why would they? They're completely different beasts. One is a cheaper version of a Tesla option that causes extra stress to the car and can results in additional warranty claims. The other is a powered lift gate.
One seriously messes around with the can bus to alter the car's performance.
The other just monitors the can bus so the trunk doesn't open when the car is moving.

Yep, thats my sentiment as well. But with people claiming that service has denied them specific warranty requests due to the HS/TO liftgate mods, Im worried it might be on Tesla's radar
 
Yep, thats my sentiment as well. But with people claiming that service has denied them specific warranty requests due to the HS/TO liftgate mods, Im worried it might be on Tesla's radar
I believe some people have had 12V battery replacements denied. Tesla is completely in their right to do that, they have no idea how much power the lift gate takes. It could have theoretically contributed to the demise of the battery.
But, as long as Tesla doesn't know... you'll be fine. If you ran power directly to the battery disconnected it before taking the car in for 12V service.
 
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I believe some people have had 12V battery replacements denied. Tesla is completely in their right to do that, they have no idea how much power the lift gate takes. It could have theoretically contributed to the demise of the battery.
But, as long as Tesla doesn't know... you'll be fine. If you ran power directly to the battery disconnected it before taking the car in for 12V service.

Seems like dying 12V batteries is pretty common in the Model 3. If it happens, I'll just replace it myself since I also have dashcams wired directly to the 12v also
 
I believe some people have had 12V battery replacements denied. Tesla is completely in their right to do that, they have no idea how much power the lift gate takes. It could have theoretically contributed to the demise of the battery.
But, as long as Tesla doesn't know... you'll be fine. If you ran power directly to the battery disconnected it before taking the car in for 12V service.

@smatthew,

I’ve heard this as well. How about “pulling” the OEM battery, running it to the service center and having them swap/exchange it for you. You drive it home and install? Or would they need proof it came from your Model 3? I have both the Auto Frunk and Trunk (HansShow) on my Sept 2018 and am trying to figure out how to attack this if/when mine goes or hopefully if I get the warning first. OR maybe I open the Frunk, have the Liner pulled out and/or the battery as well and just have Mobile come and drop in the new one, Frunk already open, (if that’s doable with a dead 12v). Prefer NOT to have them involved if there’s a chance of warranty denial. Surmising here.

Ski
 
Denying a 12v battery replacement because something is hooked up to it is pretty disappointing but wouldn't put it past Tesla. Maybe warranty denial would be less likely if the frunk and trunk were connected to VC right or left. If you have a battery issue, move your power connection before going to the SC. Difficult to deny warranty on the battery if your getting power from somewhere other than the battery.
 
Maybe warranty denial would be less likely if the frunk and trunk were connected to VC right or left. If you have a battery issue, move your power connection before going to the SC. Difficult to deny warranty on the battery if your getting power from somewhere other than the battery.

And yet deny they will for this exact scenario back in Oct 2019.
Screenshot_20200831-211857_Photos.jpg

So I had to pay the 97.50 diagnostic fee for them to also deny warranty on the 12V, which would have only cost ~$90 plus a wait of 3+ weeks. I decided to spend even more to get an Ohmmu 12V instead and that arrived in less than 48hrs. Connected all my power trunk/trunk connections directly to that battery and was good to go.
 
And yet deny they will for this exact scenario back in Oct 2019.
View attachment 583038

So I had to pay the 97.50 diagnostic fee for them to also deny warranty on the 12V, which would have only cost ~$90 plus a wait of 3+ weeks. I decided to spend even more to get an Ohmmu 12V instead and that arrived in less than 48hrs. Connected all my power trunk/trunk connections directly to that battery and was good to go.

Thanks for sharing that. I'm a little surprised yet I'm not at the same time. Based on what they wrote, seems they could deny warranty on any accessory that draws power regardless where you tap it. Suppose they could deny a battery related claim whether its a power frunk/trunk, aftermarket powered sub, brighter LEDs, or even a USB hub.
 
The trunk/frunk kits from SmarTesla appear to be re-branded older versions of the Hansshow kits. For the frunk, they use the same rubber bag for water protection whereas the TeslaOffer kits have a waterproof control unit that doesn't require the rubber bag.
 
Looks like the new Model 3 oem power trunk uses the same soft-case as TeslaOffer. Looks really odd where Tesla has trimmed the seal along the glass so I wonder if this could be done on the current cars without negative impact.

oem strut.JPG