Has anyone repaired cooling louvers?

[ResHacker]

@ResHacker what is your best guess…which “piece” is reporting back that “louvers fail” signal? Or how the system basicly works? Special signal wire? Weird that both would fail at once…
Otherwise how is your AC? Working fine?

My best guess? I really don't know..As replacement usually solves it, it's probably something with the actuator itself, so I want to take one of them out and inspect it. Second step would be to gather some trace in the LIN communication. The piece is THC control unit. I don't know exactly how it is supposed to work, but I believe there is some request sent by the LIN and after it is sent there should be some confirmation info sent back...which probably is not now or the format is bad. And yes, LIN uses just one signal wire with 12V logic + common GND wire. My AC is working ok even in hot summer days while Supercharging..Just the fans running super loud.

 

[kirkusss]

Something is really strange with this system.
Replaced the one with error (pain in the butt as bumper needs to come 80% off).
Right after, there was no error in the Service menu. Have tried to run the self test and surprise…it came back.
Oh, and it did open and closed during the test…

 

[LonelyMS]

@ResHacker can you clear the errors to observe when exactly do they appear? Eg upon start up of the car, AC, SuC session…

 

[ResHacker]

@ResHacker can you clear the errors to observe when exactly do they appear? Eg upon start up of the car, AC, SuC session…

I tried, but it didn't disappear... It's like a persistent error maybe until there's some communication back..Will try it once more to make sure ..

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Something is really strange with this system.
Replaced the one with error (pain in the butt as bumper needs to come 80% off).
Right after, there was no error in the Service menu. Have tried to run the self test and surprise…it came back.
Oh, and it did open and closed during the test…

It would be great if you can find someone in your area with an S that would let you swap parts to narrow down the problem. Is there an independent shop nearby?

 

[kirkusss]

I will be able to try it in a week when I’ll do the bumper conversion. At this point I have enough actuators and connectors from another harness to replace the one reported failed.
It’s kind of strange that it worked but was reported failed. Going in a road trip tomorrow with lots of supercharging, will see how it goes.

 

[richrootes]

Something is really strange with this system.
Replaced the one with error (pain in the butt as bumper needs to come 80% off).
Right after, there was no error in the Service menu. Have tried to run the self test and surprise…it came back.
Oh, and it did open and closed during the test…

Was the replacement one of the ‘used’ actuators from China?

 

[kirkusss]

Yes. One thing that I also have is that after every rain my park assist is not working and comes back after 2 days. Wonder if there’s any short in my harness.

 

[richrootes]

Yes. One thing that I also have is that after every rain my park assist is not working and comes back after 2 days. Wonder if there’s any short in my harness.

Depends how long that’s been going on for. More likely to be a loose connector or an overly sensitive ultrasonic sensor that doesn’t like having moisture on its surface

 

[LonelyMS]

Im still confuses how can only one 12v and one gnd wire both trigger flaps, which then work, but does return the error?

 

[ResHacker]

Im still confuses how can only one 12v and one gnd wire both trigger flaps, which then work, but does return the error?

It's not only +12V and GND wire, there's also LIN signal wire, which uses the same GND line. And if you're interested, read something about LIN bus here

 

[LonelyMS]

Can you point me in the direction of the location of this LIN wire? Have you tried disconnect it? Any new errors?

 

[ResHacker]

Can you point me in the direction of the location of this LIN wire? Have you tried disconnect it? Any new errors?

So far as I remembrer, the +12 was red, GND black and LIN was some combination of 2 colours - easy to identify on the connector. And yes, I have disconnect all the front fascia on connector under the frunk and apart from the removal of the F22 fuse it didn't trigger any error.

 

[kirkusss]

Damn…the louvers are not opening and I am baking in the car, 500 miles into my 800 miles road trip…
Saw other model S with their louvers well opened…
I wonder if the feedback is related to the physical resistence required during opening and closing.
The new ones have a bit of a friction to them, the one in the car 0…

 

[ResHacker]

Hey guys...I think the problem is SOLVED!!!

 

[ResHacker]

Damn... I'm so happy today..Guess what, was on the V2 Supercharger today and the side louvers opened even it was not very hot outside and the fans were loud but not like before...so my resolution to this is: if you have seen the louvers to be opened, but they don't open when they should = servos are ok, but the behavior not..so then it is needed the Toolbox louvers calibration or the angle fix routine to be executed. Then the fault doesn't disappear immediately, but first time after when the ECU wants to use them it should work and the fault will disappear. That's probably the reason I still have those radiator faults as the rad shutters were not switched so far. Hope it helps you guys

 

[richrootes]

Damn... I'm so happy today..Guess what, was on the V2 Supercharger today and the side louvers opened even it was not very hot outside and the fans were loud but not like before...so my resolution to this is: if you have seen the louvers to be opened, but they don't open when they should = servos are ok, but the behavior not..so then it is needed the Toolbox louvers calibration or the angle fix routine to be executed. Then the fault doesn't disappear immediately, but first time after when the ECU wants to use them it should work and the fault will disappear. That's probably the reason I still have those radiator faults as the rad shutters were not switched so far. Hope it helps you guys

Very pleased for you!

It‘s a shame that this is not included in the standard ‘service’ page - I have no clue how to get access to Toolbox on my car to carry out the calibration

Do you need the OBD2 connector etc?

 

[ResHacker]

Very pleased for you!

It‘s a shame that this is not included in the standard ‘service’ page - I have no clue how to get access to Toolbox on my car to carry out the calibration

Do you need the OBD2 connector etc?

Thanks! Yes, it's a shame, maybe in the future there might this function included, who knows.. I still don't have on MCU1 Thermal test for example. No, you don't need any OBD at all even it should be possible to enter Factory with tools like Loki or T-Can which I think uses OBD. I needed just two ethernet ports, one is behind the Instrument cluster an another one next to the OBD under Central info display.
Well, there're basically 2 possible ways, how to have this done.The first is to directly ask Tesla to perform this operation. And if one SC is not willing to do it, then try out another one.

Another quite difficult DIY way (which I like most):
1) You have to be on MCU1
2) SW must be on 2022.8.10.5 or older version which still allows you to go to Factory mode and open diagnostic port. How to downgrade is explained here and it is working. I'm in contact with that guy who created the todo list and he was very helpful.
3) Then you have to prepare laptop with Toolbox. I have asked one guy from MHH auto forum who did it for just 50USD but maybe I can do it myself now as I have the files, will have to test it on another PC.
4) Connect the laptop via LAN to the car, enter the Factory mode and run the Toolbox. It's basically explained in this article, but for me the command mentioned there didn't work. I have another working sequence of the commands.

If anyone here wants to proceed same as me, I'll for sure lead him step by step, what is needed to do. Just ask me in PM.

 

[richrootes]

Thanks! Yes, it's a shame, maybe in the future there might this function included, who knows.. I still don't have on MCU1 Thermal test for example. No, you don't need any OBD at all even it should be possible to enter Factory with tools like Loki or T-Can which I think uses OBD. I needed just two ethernet ports, one is behind the Instrument cluster an another one next to the OBD under Central info display.
Well, there're basically 2 possible ways, how to have this done.The first is to directly ask Tesla to perform this operation. And if one SC is not willing to do it, then try out another one.

Another quite difficult DIY way (which I like most):
1) You have to be on MCU1
2) SW must be on 2022.8.10.5 or older version which still allows you to go to Factory mode and open diagnostic port. How to downgrade is explained here and it is working. I'm in contact with that guy who created the todo list and he was very helpful.
3) Then you have to prepare laptop with Toolbox. I have asked one guy from MHH auto forum who did it for just 50USD but maybe I can do it myself now as I have the files, will have to test it on another PC.
4) Connect the laptop via LAN to the car, enter the Factory mode and run the Toolbox. It's basically explained in this article, but for me the command mentioned there didn't work. I have another working sequence of the commands.

If anyone here wants to proceed same as me, I'll for sure lead him step by step, what is needed to do. Just ask me in PM.

I’m out of luck then - I upgraded to MCU2

I’ve been asking Tesla about the condenser shutters not opening during charging since before my warranty ran out, but they always said they were fine - of course service mode didn’t exist back then, so one couldn’t argue

I suspected throwing parts at the issue wasn’t going to help, maybe I was right

Ah well

 

[ResHacker]

I’m out of luck then - I upgraded to MCU2

I’ve been asking Tesla about the condenser shutters not opening during charging since before my warranty ran out, but they always said they were fine - of course service mode didn’t exist back then, so one couldn’t argue

I suspected throwing parts at the issue wasn’t going to help, maybe I was right

Ah well

How about MCU2 I really don't know, I have just read it is not possible now, but not sure at all.. I'd not give up anyway Because for me to deal with Tesla is much bigger pain.. You can try it once again as you're out of warranty now so they might be more helpful
Yes, they usually try to just throw new parts on such issues which is the most profitable and also easy option for them, but maybe if you show them you know something about the problem and will argue, they might try to use Toolbox first and run the calibration... Just my guess..