Has anyone repaired cooling louvers?

[LonelyMS]

@ResHacker how long does the whole procedure take? downgrade to correct SW, then toolbox calibration? Hour, two, more?

After you did this, will you upgrade, or already did, to the latest SW, is it still working?

 

[ResHacker]

@ResHacker how long does the whole procedure take? downgrade to correct SW, then toolbox calibration? Hour, two, more?

After you did this, will you upgrade, or already did, to the latest SW, is it still working?

If you have everything prepared (preinstalled laptop, necessary cables)? Well, for installing the cables into the car you need to get to the Instrument cluster, this is maybe 15-20min work with watching youtube instructions. Then downgrade SW itself is like 1 hour, it depends how fast your WiFi connection and http server is. Then the Toolbox procedure itself is just 1min long
I'd strongly recommend to follow the instructions in the downgrade manual from Vegar. Especially to have prepared 3 Fakra (2x male + 1x female to RJ45) cables with LAN coupler. I decided to leave them in the car permanently with easy access from the side of dashboard. Then the third Fakra cable to be able to connect to the diagnostic port under CID which I have also permanently left in the car so I can easily diag it whenever I need after I enter to the Factory mode.
I'll probably stick with this older SW if no problems occurs, I can "upgrade" whenever I want as it is still offering the new SW to me.. And I'm not sure whether it will be possible to downgrade from newer versions than 2022.8.10.12.

 

[Zuikkis]

Someone with MCU2 could try this with Toolbox:

Upgrading early model s

I'm trying to upgrade my early 2013 model s60 to a p85. The reason I'm doing this instead of buying a used p85 is because my 60 is my first car and I don't want to get rid of it. This is a crazy idea I'm cooking up in my head so bear with me here. I have been trying to learn how to reconfigure...

teslamotorsclub.com

The picture is from Loki manual which can be found online.

 

[ResHacker]

I have two possibly interesting findings:
1) when not so hot outside (25°C), precond turned on with setting 21°C, the side louvers opened
2) today connected to AC wallbox, louvers stayed closed, so the claim it cycles after every charging started seems to be no more valid

 

[LonelyMS]

So basicly these louvers open when the car is stationary? Which would make sense, otherwise too much dirt might get inside? And while the car is "moving" the airflow itself might be enough to not open them?

btw, @ResHacker, do you know the reason why yours stopped working? as my car is 2nd hand I dont have much history, but I suspect, as it was from Norway, some snow/ice might be blocking them to open thus making the ECU to "think" they are faulty?

 

[KalJoMoS]

What I have learned is that if you drive in freezing condition, specifically in freezing rain then you will find that the whole front end is covered with thick ice. It’s worth to brake the ice around and on the louvers before you start to charge, even if only AC charging. As @LonelyMS have pointed out this ice is covering every corner on the bumper, outer side of the louvers will get the most accumulation and the ice is blocking the side linkage on the fins.

 

[ResHacker]

So basicly these louvers open when the car is stationary? Which would make sense, otherwise too much dirt might get inside? And while the car is "moving" the airflow itself might be enough to not open them?

btw, @ResHacker, do you know the reason why yours stopped working? as my car is 2nd hand I dont have much history, but I suspect, as it was from Norway, some snow/ice might be blocking them to open thus making the ECU to "think" they are faulty?

I believe, the louvers open whenever it is needed and the cooling power is not sufficient. Nevertheless I have not tested it to see whether they really opens when driving, very high ambient temp, warm battery, AC set on max, etc.
But to be honest, my condensers are very clean instead of radiator which I plan to change soon. Which means, they were mostly closed during its life (or at least during driving).
The reason I'm really not sure about as the fault was already there when I bought the car. I still believe, it's caused by some SW bug as mine were not broken. But it is true that many people here had them mechanically broken or stuck by sand, mud or so. Also the ice blockage might cause them to break as I'm not sure whether there's any kind of such protection limiting its operation while blocked or so.. Such limitation has ie window regulator.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

So basicly these louvers open when the car is stationary? Which would make sense, otherwise too much dirt might get inside? And while the car is "moving" the airflow itself might be enough to not open them?

btw, @ResHacker, do you know the reason why yours stopped working? as my car is 2nd hand I dont have much history, but I suspect, as it was from Norway, some snow/ice might be blocking them to open thus making the ECU to "think" they are faulty?

Actually crap does build up.

 

[ResHacker]

Actually crap does build up.

Yep, so I believe them to open also during the drive. But anyway, they look much better then the radiator which is constantly "open" to any dust After 8 years in central European weather it's almost on the end of its life and must be replaced.

 

[LonelyMS]

I am waiting for information from tesla service if they can only do the calibration for me...otherwise I will seek alternatives, I dont feel like doing it myself at this point.

I think I figured out the best method of triggering the flap open/close cycle (beside the F22 which is 100%). After the car sits a while with the A/C off and the temp inside and outside is rather "high", like over 25°, just start the A/C from the app and the flaps should cycle.

 

[ResHacker]

I am waiting for information from tesla service if they can only do the calibration for me...otherwise I will seek alternatives, I dont feel like doing it myself at this point.

I think I figured out the best method of triggering the flap open/close cycle (beside the F22 which is 100%). After the car sits a while with the A/C off and the temp inside and outside is rather "high", like over 25°, just start the A/C from the app and the flaps should cycle.

Ok, good luck, also curious whether Tesla is willing to do it.
Well, I might try it even I thing those conditions will trigger only the outer louvers. I was thinking about it for a while and also going through the related Tesla patent describing it and I think the radiator louvers are generally open all the time as during the summer they let the air go through the radiator and maybe they close just when temp goes down (maybe it's connected with the 4-way valve logic) to prevent to cool the water loop even it's possible to bridge it... In that point I'm really not sure, why the radiator louvers are there in the system. Maybe if they closes it also might make the drag coefficient better?

 

[EXOTIC1]

Bumping this up
……. 2017 Tesla P100D
My car blows ice cold for 30-45 mins and then out of nowhere it feels like the AC is off even though it’s still blowing ( feels like fan air only ) then after a few mins will blow cool again ……..,
Remote diagnosis from Tesla replace front left and right louvre.
Funny thing is they are both working L and R . I can see them opening and closing at different times.

Does this seem correct ? Car goes in Aug 12
Cost estimate $989
My take I think it’s just low on coolant
No error codes……
Thx in advance e on any help

 

[tldickerson]

I think their blowing smoke up your a$$.

 

[EXOTIC1]

I think their blowing smoke up your a$$.

I’m starting to think so as well. I think it may just be low on coolant.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Did you check the service page, notifications?

 

[EXOTIC1]

Did you check the service page, notifications?

Yes….
Didn’t see any notifications listed

 

[richrootes]

Yes….
Didn’t see any notifications listed

Did they quote an actual proper part name or number?

If no errors are present when you are in the proper service page menu, then I’d say there are no parts that need replacing

On the other hand, I thought the car alerted you when low on coolant or refrigerant

 

[EXOTIC1]

Did they quote an actual proper part name or number?

If no errors are present when you are in the proper service page menu, then I’d say there are no parts that need replacing

On the other hand, I thought the car alerted you when low on coolant or refrigerant

I received this notice/invoice and appointment for Aug
Remote diagnosis

 

[EXOTIC1]

I still think it just needs a recharge or added coolant…….. do you get a notices for this in messages?
Thx

 

[richrootes]

I still think it just needs a recharge or added coolant…….. do you get a notices for this in messages?
Thx

From the list of fault codes:

Signal Name
Shown to Customer Debug Text
User Message
Signal Name
Shown to Customer Debug Text
User Message
THC_u0005_cabinHVACLimited_PT
True
THC_u0005_cabinHVACLimited_PT
Vehicle Systems Being Cooled: Air Conditioning is Reduced
THC_w0105_coolantBottleLowLevel
True
THC_w0105_coolantBottleLowLevel
Vehicle Coolant is Low: Contact Tesla Service
THC_w0148_refrigerantLow
True
THC_w0148_refrigerantLow
Air Conditioning Needs Service:: Cabin A/C Performance Limited
Chime / Notification Behavior
• Behavior Name: CENTER_DISPLAY_NO_CHIME_NOTIFICATION
• Shown on Cluster: False
• Sound Repeated: False
• Sound Name: ALERT_SOUND_NONE
• Icon Type: ALERT_ICON_NOTIFICATION
Chime / Notification Behavior
• Behavior Name: CLUSTER_SINGLE_CHIME
• Shown on Cluster: False
• Sound Repeated: False
• Sound Name: ALERT_SOUND_CHIME
• Icon Type: ALERT_ICON_WARNING
Chime / Notification Behavior
• Behavior Name: CLUSTER_NO_CHIME
• Shown on Cluster: False
• Sound Repeated: False
• Sound Name: ALERT_SOUND_NONE
• Icon Type: ALERT_ICON_WARNING