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Highland suspension on 2019 Model 3
- Thread starter Guod
- Start date
Dag
Member
Can't see that happening as you need the software to be compatible. And you need to connect the damper actuators, which will no doubt be more than just a supply voltage.
Performance rear springs have a different part number to RWD and dual motor, so seems rates are different.
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What’s the deal with these nuts?
Anyone else who did the install get new ones or just reused the old ones?
There are certain nuts/bolts which are 'one use only' in the service manual. Often they are some sort of locking nut, stretch bolt or essential fastener which would lead to a potentially bad situation if they came off in service.
They aren't expensive, so it makes sense to follow the service advice and replace them. I've reused those nuts and others several times on both of our Model 3s and it's been fine, but then I'm changing suspension parts regularly and constantly checking and re-torqueing nuts and bolts, but I always advise anyone else to renew one-use fasteners and make sure everything is torqued to the correct values.
Some nuts & bolts are torque to yield (TTY), where you torque them to 60NM, then turn +90 degrees. Those are purposely deformed to prevent them from backing out, and thus are not as strong for second time use. Those you should replace.
That is NOT the case with any Model 3 suspension hardware. At all.
If you look at Model 3 suspension torque specs, the reuse vs. replace designation is somewhat random:
They want you to replace the 98 Nm bolt, but reuse the 106 Nm one?
Replace the 56 Nm nut, but reuse 106 Nm one?
Replace the tiny 10mm ABS sensor bracket bolt that is torque 5 Nm?
That makes absolutely zero sense.
More insight here:
I reused all of mine mine, but mostly because I did not have replacements on hand.
That, and I could not make any sense of the reuse vs. replace logic.
Having said that, I am under the car at least 2-3x / year (swapping wheels, and what not), and check torque regularly. Never any surprises.
If in doubt, follow OEM's recommendation and replace the hardware they want you to replace.
YMMV,
a
Firehuntah
Member
Some nuts & bolts are torque to yield (TTY), where you torque them to 60NM, then turn +90 degrees. Those are purposely deformed to prevent them from backing out, and thus are not as strong for second time use. Those you should replace.
That is NOT the case with any Model 3 suspension hardware. At all.
If you look at Model 3 suspension torque specs, the reuse vs. replace designation is somewhat random:
View attachment 1050858
They want you to replace the 98 Nm bolt, but reuse the 106 Nm one?
Replace the 56 Nm nut, but reuse 106 Nm one?
Replace the tiny 10mm ABS sensor bracket bolt that is torque 5 Nm?
That makes absolutely zero sense.
More insight here:
I reused all of mine mine, but mostly because I did not have replacements on hand.
That, and I could not make any sense of the reuse vs. replace logic.
Having said that, I am under the car at least 2-3x / year (swapping wheels, and what not), and check torque regularly. Never any surprises.
If in doubt, follow OEM's recommendation and replace the hardware they want you to replace.
YMMV,
a
It actually does make sense. You simply reuse the bolts/nuts that do not have any threadlocker. The bolts/nuts that do have threadlocker (either nylon rings on the nuts, loctite on the bolts and in some cases oval shaped bolts/nuts as well), you discard and use new ones. The reason for not reusing them is because the threadlocker is not intact anymore and cannot be used anymore after that without risk of them undoing themselves if they were to come loose.
Now I've reused pretty much all suspension bolts/nuts multiple times myself without issues as well, but that doesn't mean that you should. Best practice is to always follow whatever the official manual tells you to. At the very least use some loctite on these particular bolts/nuts yourself. The nuts with the nordlock style rings to secure the ball joints and the bigger ones for the halfshafts however should never be reused. Have had a couple of times already where these rings broke off when trying to reuse. These are definitely one time use only.
Hi guys. I am wondering what parts # would need to be ordered to fix a firm original 2018 RWD Long Range Model 3. I have always felt like the suspension was so bumpy/firm that it was broken and after driving the highland, it feels like Tesla finally fixed the issue.
If Tesla won't fix this issue, then I'll have my guy at my local suspension shop perform the install.
Just need to know which parts to order for the front and back. I also have the original (and defective, no squeaking yet tho) control arms, you guys think they should be replaced too or that can wait for them to fail.
Thanks for the help and have a good one.
If Tesla won't fix this issue, then I'll have my guy at my local suspension shop perform the install.
Just need to know which parts to order for the front and back. I also have the original (and defective, no squeaking yet tho) control arms, you guys think they should be replaced too or that can wait for them to fail.
Thanks for the help and have a good one.
Sorry, but that actually does NOT make sense.
One can easily re-apply Loctite and retighten the bolts. Application of Loctite is part of the assembly instruction on a lot of other vehicle projects.
Nylon rings in nuts used as thread-lockers are designed to be reusable.
Agreed.
Unless you don't.
a
Imho, there are two pieces of information that I thought was important in my decision to replace the Nyloc nuts:
Pro: I save a few bucks.
Con: I'm disregarding the OEM's recommendation without access to the information they used to make it.
Scenario 2: I replace the nyloc nuts.
Pro: If torqued correctly, the Nyloc nut should offer comparable security to the original, given that both have only had their nylon insert deformed once.
Con: I spend a few bucks.
Given the total cost to replace these four nuts was $4.14, there really should be no debate about it, if you value your safety in any amount.
- Nyloc nuts will never be as secure as the first time they were tightened. Tightening the nut will force the Nylon into plastic deformation to provide ample friction against vibration. This is a permanent process. But, whether or not the reduction in friction after reuse is critical or not to the application entirely depends on the factor of safety with this fastener, something only Tesla engineers would know.
- There is no way for shop mechanics to know how many times a nut on a customer's vehicle has been loosened and retightened. Replacing them after each removal is an insurance policy. Of course, if you're the only owner of your vehicle then you probably know how often the nuts have been removed and retightened, so then it becomes your call on how many times a Nyloc nut can be reused before it's unsafe.
- OEM recommends replacement of these nuts. Whether or not they supplement this with a reason is moot. I bet if they did provide a reason, people would still ignore them
.
Pro: I save a few bucks.
Con: I'm disregarding the OEM's recommendation without access to the information they used to make it.
Scenario 2: I replace the nyloc nuts.
Pro: If torqued correctly, the Nyloc nut should offer comparable security to the original, given that both have only had their nylon insert deformed once.
Con: I spend a few bucks.
Given the total cost to replace these four nuts was $4.14, there really should be no debate about it, if you value your safety in any amount.
Highland Dampers for your RWD:
2x 1344465-00-B (REAR DAMPER ASSEMBLY)
1x 1344365-00-B (FRONT DAMPER ASSEMBLY- REAR WHEEL DRIVE- LEFT HAND)
1x 1344365-01-B (FRONT DAMPER ASSEMBLY- REAR WHEEL DRIVE- RIGHT HAND)
Nyloc nuts to be replaced during front damper replacement, per Tesla service manual:
2x 1111145-00-A (Attaches Upper Control Arm to Front Knuckle)
2x 1111543-00-A (Attaches Sway Bar Link to Front Damper Assembly)
Dag
Member
For those curious about prices.
Asked for a quote, dual motor parts.
Asked for a quote, dual motor parts.
Thanks everyone for the information in this thread, I've been following it closely.
I, like M3 2018, have a LR RWD. So the larger, heavier battery, but only a rear motor. I wanted to double check that these would be the "recommended" highland parts for this setup.
Thanks in advance!
Dag
Member
I'm sure they will find a way to reject that future warranty claim lol
"part mismatch" etc
