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...and is 12% less efficient than a wired system (higher electric bill).

To all of you who are mighty worried about losses during wireless charging... from Model X rim selection page:

22" Silver Turbine Wheels
Exchanges about 10-15% range for enhanced handling. Equipped with all-season tires.

There you have it, wireless charging has lower efficiency hit than 22" wheels with say a summer performance tires.
David99 made his own aero-covers and measured 5% efficiency gain on highway.

Anyone complaining about losses and driving on 22" should get his facts straight.

Gimme nice highly efficient rims and tires and home wireless charging.
At superchargers I will happily plug in manually, "thank you kindly".
 
OP can also "kick the can down the road" and have a 100-150A subpanel installed in the garage, and add charging circuits later.

Although, if the interior walls of the garage are sheetrocked and final wiring added later, you'd likely need to use surface mount conduit (ie, EMT - galvanized metal tubing). Some people find that offends their sensibilities. I don't - it's my garage, not a living room.

2016-04-22 08.40.31 (Small).jpg


Wiring now? Decide if you want to park head-in or tail-in. Add two circuits to the car's left rear in each bay (so, rear left for head in, front right for back in). In a two car garage with 2 single-width doors, both cars parked head in, you'd want one outlet/HPWC to the left of each door (looking at the garage from the driveway, that's left rear corner and center post between the doors).

A double-width door will make charging more difficult in one bay. Assuming head-in parking, you'd be dragging the cord from the front or right wall of the garage, vs having it right there on the post.

Now that I think about it, most of the garages I've seen have lots of structure in the walls between doors (often steel posts) - not a lot of room to add an outlet box. You probably need to surface mount the box (but the wires could be run in the wall).

If you want maximum flexibility, run 2ga copper to each location (this will be expensive). You can add breakers and outlets or HPWC later. Have your electrician verify that the terminals on a 50A breaker and outlet can handle wire that big. You'll also want to run an empty conduit (with pull string) between the two locations so you can add the low-voltage data interconnect later that allows 2 HPWC's to load share.

If you have lots of electrical loads (A/C, heat, range/oven), consider upgrading beyond 200A service, just to be safe - it's a lot cheaper to install 320A/400A now than go back and retrofit later).
 
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From what I have seen (in videos) the charging port is on the left side in the rear tail light. Regardless of which side is the driver's side. Is that wrong?
Thank you kindly.

Someone from the UK would be able to answer, but I remember reading that the charging port will be on the same side on the model 3 as on the S and X because of the way superchargers are designed.
 
OP can also "kick the can down the road" and have a 100-150A subpanel installed in the garage, and add charging circuits later.

Although, if the interior walls of the garage are sheetrocked and final wiring added later, you'd likely need to use surface mount conduit (ie, EMT - galvanized metal tubing). Some people find that offends their sensibilities. I don't - it's my garage, not a living room.

View attachment 173420

Wiring now? Decide if you want to park head-in or tail-in. Add two circuits to the car's left rear in each bay (so, rear left for head in, front right for back in). In a two car garage with 2 single-width doors, both cars parked head in, you'd want one outlet/HPWC to the left of each door (looking at the garage from the driveway, that's left rear corner and center post between the doors).

A double-width door will make charging more difficult in one bay. Assuming head-in parking, you'd be dragging the cord from the front or right wall of the garage, vs having it right there on the post.

Now that I think about it, most of the garages I've seen have lots of structure in the walls between doors (often steel posts) - not a lot of room to add an outlet box. You probably need to surface mount the box (but the wires could be run in the wall).

If you want maximum flexibility, run 2ga copper to each location (this will be expensive). You can add breakers and outlets or HPWC later. Have your electrician verify that the terminals on a 50A breaker and outlet can handle wire that big. You'll also want to run an empty conduit (with pull string) between the two locations so you can add the low-voltage data interconnect later that allows 2 HPWC's to load share.

If you have lots of electrical loads (A/C, heat, range/oven), consider upgrading beyond 200A service, just to be safe - it's a lot cheaper to install 320A/400A now than go back and retrofit later).

THANK YOU!

The walls are not up yet (sheetrock) they are still building the road leading up to where our future house will be.

So there's plenty of time for me to make whatever changes or alterations. I know nothing about charging a Tesla and thought now would be a great time to do my research.

My wife pulls in head first,but I always back in. I'm guessing a HPWC on each side of the garage would be perfect.

The home will have two separate AC's,heater,double ovens,etc. I'll ask what is being installed and then inquire about a 320 or 400A. Having the electrician pre-wire from each side of the garage back to the panel shouldn't be a problem. I'd like to just install the two HPWC's after the home is completed on both sides of the garage. Making the install easy due to the pre-wiring.

It's a dual garage with one large door.
 
THANK YOU!

The walls are not up yet (sheetrock) they are still building the road leading up to where our future house will be.

So there's plenty of time for me to make whatever changes or alterations. I know nothing about charging a Tesla and thought now would be a great time to do my research.

My wife pulls in head first,but I always back in. I'm guessing a HPWC on each side of the garage would be perfect.

The home will have two separate AC's,heater,double ovens,etc. I'll ask what is being installed and then inquire about a 320 or 400A. Having the electrician pre-wire from each side of the garage back to the panel shouldn't be a problem. I'd like to just install the two HPWC's after the home is completed on both sides of the garage. Making the install easy due to the pre-wiring.

It's a dual garage with one large door.
As long as you both park so that your driver's side is towards the wall, not the center, then putting a 14-50 or HPWC on either side wall will be fine. You may want to move them front/back away from dead center to be closer to the charge port on driver's rear, but it probably doesn't matter. If you both park like this, single/double door doesn't really matter.

If you install 2 HPWC's but tie together the low voltage data signalling lines (my comment about the separate conduit with a pull string) then they would work together to share 100A, so it would be considered a 100A charge load, not 200A.

This all assumes both cars are ordered with optional, may-not-exist-since-we-don't-know-the-options, high current chargers. But pulling 2 or 3 gauge (copper, not aluminum) to both locations, plus the separate conduit between them for the signalling wires gives you the most flexibility/futureproofing.

3 gauge copper is good enough and a little cheaper. If the runs to the panel are long enough, you'll save some money. 2 gauge is a bit overkill, but sometimes easier to get then 3, and better for longer runs (less voltage drop = slightly faster charging)
 
As long as you both park so that your driver's side is towards the wall, not the center, then putting a 14-50 or HPWC on either side wall will be fine. You may want to move them front/back away from dead center to be closer to the charge port on driver's rear, but it probably doesn't matter. If you both park like this, single/double door doesn't really matter.

If you install 2 HPWC's but tie together the low voltage data signalling lines (my comment about the separate conduit with a pull string) then they would work together to share 100A, so it would be considered a 100A charge load, not 200A.

This all assumes both cars are ordered with optional, may-not-exist-since-we-don't-know-the-options, high current chargers. But pulling 2 or 3 gauge (copper, not aluminum) to both locations, plus the separate conduit between them for the signalling wires gives you the most flexibility/futureproofing.

3 gauge copper is good enough and a little cheaper. If the runs to the panel are long enough, you'll save some money. 2 gauge is a bit overkill, but sometimes easier to get then 3, and better for longer runs (less voltage drop = slightly faster charging)

Got it.... Thank you for correcting me on the 200A. I'll have them do a conduit for signaling as you suggested. Thank you for educating me.
I've wrote down everything to tell the electrician once it's time. :)
 
Exchanges about 10-15% range for enhanced handling


Seriously?! Makes me feel better about preferring smaller wheels. I never was one for fashion.

"thank you kindly".

No need for quotation marks.:)


Wiring now? Decide if you want to park head-in or tail-in.

How long is the standard charger cord, in real world terms? If you place it a few feet away can you charge in both configurations?

Thank you kindly.
 
For the current cars - the UMC (plug-in cable) has a 20' cord; the newest HPWC is available with either an 8.5' or 20' cord.

Not to nit-pick, but the on-line Tesla store says 8.5' or 24' for the HPWC.

If I was going to wire up a new garage, I'd also want lots of "normal" 120V outlets for tools, and a few CAT6 runs to wherever the network / telecom / AV stuff is located. (Just thinking of that because my current garage has a scarcity of the former, and none of the latter.) But all that doesn't have a lot to do with Tesla charging. :)

Bruce.
 
Not to nit-pick, but the on-line Tesla store says 8.5' or 24' for the HPWC.

If I was going to wire up a new garage, I'd also want lots of "normal" 120V outlets for tools, and a few CAT6 runs to wherever the network / telecom / AV stuff is located. (Just thinking of that because my current garage has a scarcity of the former, and none of the latter.) But all that doesn't have a lot to do with Tesla charging. :)

Bruce.
I know what you mean. I've been planing and going over the floor plan for weeks thinking of just that. Don't want to go into detail because that's not what this thread is about.
Let's just say there will be no shortage of every type of outlet :)
 
Extra 220v lines to the garage is a good idea but, for the benefit of those with a single feed but multiple EVs, remember that splitting the 220v 40A supply between two simultaneously charging EVs is only a problem in the first several hours of charging when "empty," when each vehicle gets 20A rather than 40A. But the draw declines when half-full. Once the sum of the draws declines below 40A, each EV will charge as fast as it would as a solo. So the overall effect of splitting the 40A will be rarely encountered (both EVs near empty) and then only evident as a longer charging time (maybe two hours) or less than full after eight hours. Same effect if you start charging one EV hours before the other.
 
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Not to nit-pick, but the on-line Tesla store says 8.5' or 24' for the HPWC.
You're right, typo - not paying attention. I was looking at the page when I typed that, too - (that's where I got the UMC length from)

If I was going to wire up a new garage, I'd also want lots of "normal" 120V outlets for tools, and a few CAT6 runs to wherever the network / telecom / AV stuff is located. (Just thinking of that because my current garage has a scarcity of the former, and none of the latter.) But all that doesn't have a lot to do with Tesla charging. :)
Actually, that's why I have a subpanel in the garage (post #22) - highly recommended for anyone who thinks they will have future power needs they didn't plan for. In that panel, I have 3 20A/120V tool circuits, a 20A/120V for a window A/C, 2 15A 120V (modine heater's fan and a dedicated lighting circuit), 50A/240V for the 14-50 welder outlet, and 30A/240V for the lift.
 
Extra 220v lines to the garage is a good idea but, for the benefit of those with a single feed but multiple EVs, remember that splitting the 220v 40A supply between two simultaneously charging EVs is only a problem in the first several hours of charging when "empty," when each vehicle gets 20A rather than 40A. But the draw declines when half-full. Once the sum of the draws declines below 40A, each EV will charge as fast as it would as a solo. So the overall effect of splitting the 40A will be rarely encountered (both EVs near empty) and then only evident as a longer charging time (maybe two hours) or less than full after eight hours. Same effect if you start charging one EV hours before the other.

No, that’s not true. You are confusing two different things. At Superchargers, yes, that is correct, because it can not allow 300+ amps, as the battery is above about 40%. It does not taper the same way with home AC charging because the current is ALREADY much lower. With 40 or even 80 amp charging, it will be above 90% state of charge before it ever start to taper the current down.
 
To all of you who are mighty worried about losses during wireless charging... from Model X rim selection page:



There you have it, wireless charging has lower efficiency hit than 22" wheels with say a summer performance tires.
David99 made his own aero-covers and measured 5% efficiency gain on highway.

Anyone complaining about losses and driving on 22" should get his facts straight.

Gimme nice highly efficient rims and tires and home wireless charging.
At superchargers I will happily plug in manually, "thank you kindly".

I brought up the losses because I thought it was good information for people on the forum. If you want to take a 12% hit for the convenience of not plugging in, go for it. 12% for most people is not a big difference on charging costs for the year.

For me, I'd rather not add to the losses that are already inherent in the charging system. Besides, I strung our wire to the ceiling attached to a tool balancer and it literally takes 3 seconds to plug in.. not really an inconvenience. However, I do understand the draw to wireless--I used to have a wireless charging phone and it was great.
 
No, that’s not true. You are confusing two different things. At Superchargers, yes, that is correct, because it can not allow 300+ amps, as the battery is above about 40%. It does not taper the same way with home AC charging because the current is ALREADY much lower. With 40 or even 80 amp charging, it will be above 90% state of charge before it ever start to taper the current down.

We charge to 85% and never see it drop below 40 amps.. so I would agree with Rocky here.
 
There's no shortage of solar companies in my area. You know,I never even thought about solar! My wife and I will be doing so research on that tonight for sure.

Thank you for your input and excellent job on the install by you and your son.
There are a ton of us on here with solar panels. I just had my system install about a month and a half ago and I'm in your general area. So all of my research and calculations were done fairly recently. Ask if you have any questions.