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Importance of rear camber arms after lowering?
- Thread starter MaxwellN22
- Start date
All depends on how low the Eibachs settle, how far out of spec the alignment will go with this drop.
Unless you are young and suspension mods are still something that excites you, I would actually recommend avoiding any drop and any aftermarket suspension components. Once you start, the rabbit hole is never ending and it has blenty of ugly and bad along with some limited good.
Unless you are young and suspension mods are still something that excites you, I would actually recommend avoiding any drop and any aftermarket suspension components. Once you start, the rabbit hole is never ending and it has blenty of ugly and bad along with some limited good.
GreenHokie
Member
Adjustable camber arms were/are a must in my case. After lowering my vehicle with MPP coilovers using MPP’s suggested initial settings/heights (which dropped my vehicle by about 1.25”), I had pretty severe negative camber. So, the adjustable arms allowed me to bring my camber back to near neutral. Your results may vary….
I'm somewhere in the middle ha. Still young at heart and wanted some wheels, so some kinda of lowering was needed IMO.
I'm lowered by ~30mm, OEM adjustment options were enough to zero-out rear toe, and I ended up with less than a degree of rear camber.
If one wants to preserve more rear camber, or lowers by more than 1.5", aftermarket rear camber+toe arms will be needed.
So I thought I only wanted a drop for looks... I waited, got coil overs, camber and toe arms just to begin. I thought I was done. Oh boy, I was not. I now have pretty much everything suspension wise that MPP offers.
I've taken it around the Nürburgring a few times. I love the ride and it handled pretty well around the track. Just waiting on a few more parts from them. My wallet hates me.
German roads get ridiculous with the salt they put down but I haven't had any issues. Big reason I spent the money on actual coilovers vs springs for lowering is I've read a bunch of things about how the stock suspension wasn't meant for any other springs and how people eventually had issues with just lowering, so I saved and spent the money upfront for quality and only having to do it once.
It's ultimately your call on what you want to do man. Modding gets addicting.
no kidding. I’ve heavily modded many cars in my life. So I would have to say I’m a recovering addict…. Lol
vogz
Member
I'm winter driving with the MPP coilovers. The damper bodies are stainless steel and therefore more resistant to corrosion than the factory suspension. 2 winters so far, zero issue.
GreenHokie
Member
Yep, not sure about all MPP coilover kits, but their Comfort Adjustable kits have the INOX stainless steel bodies. So, definitely more corrosion resistant than Tesla’s stock suspension and even some other aftermarket coilovers kits.
So, concerns about corrosion should NOT be a reason to deter someone from coilovers…
So, concerns about corrosion should NOT be a reason to deter someone from coilovers…
Ah ok. MPP themselves recommended going to the adjustable ones for winter driving.
I could swallow the price of the Non adjustable ones. I just don't think I can wait the 6-8 weeks.
^Forgot to add, I would be more worried about the front camber since that is barely adjustable if you are lucky. Most M3s have negative camber already on the front/rear -.7 to -1.0 and more. -1.0 is the max negative number for factory. Mine was -1.15...and there was no way to move the upper control arm any further on the either front, it was already maxed from the factory when we loosened the bolts to look. So I'm stuck with the Right -1.15 and Left -.82 from the factory. Which is very close on the right side but still more than we wanted, really would like to match the left stock negative camber.
Toe was negative with the drop/factory. Put some positive toe on the front, fixed the rear and got camber identical on the rear around -1.35 and toe looking good there as well.
The cars drives good, and slightly more quiet now IMO.
With that said, having the ability to get them identical is nice with rear camber arms. The only hassle is the arms are above the wheel and a bit of a drag to get to compared to the toe. But my alignment shop had no issues.
Moral of the story, get some rear camber arms as well like I mention...and hope you front is close enough on camber or you can wiggle the upper mount and loosen the four bolts to get more negative if it is an issue. You have to take the entire frunk tub/plastic off, takes like 5 minutes...but still...not a normal thing alignment shops deal with. I helped my guy since they are a mom/pop and don't mind you jumping around the equipment.
Toe was negative with the drop/factory. Put some positive toe on the front, fixed the rear and got camber identical on the rear around -1.35 and toe looking good there as well.
The cars drives good, and slightly more quiet now IMO.
With that said, having the ability to get them identical is nice with rear camber arms. The only hassle is the arms are above the wheel and a bit of a drag to get to compared to the toe. But my alignment shop had no issues.
Moral of the story, get some rear camber arms as well like I mention...and hope you front is close enough on camber or you can wiggle the upper mount and loosen the four bolts to get more negative if it is an issue. You have to take the entire frunk tub/plastic off, takes like 5 minutes...but still...not a normal thing alignment shops deal with. I helped my guy since they are a mom/pop and don't mind you jumping around the equipment.
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P3D-R
Closed
From doing a ton of Model 3's and Y's I will say that it is hit or miss. I have had a small handful of 3's that don't require rear camber arms with a 3/4 to 1" Drop. They landed around -1.0 to -1.3 rear. However, the vast majority of them had a big delta from left to right of nearly 0.5 to 0.7degs. This can be reduced by adjusting the factory camber where the spring arm connects to the subframe but for the most part I make it mandatory for my clients to get rear camber arms. I'd rather be safe than sorry and not have any regrets when you get the to alignment shop and say "SOB, I should have bought them!!!!"
This is a very old thread! Do you have an alignment printout we can take a look at and see if you need them? The rear camber arms are interchangeable between the Model 3 and Model Y if they are built strong enough for the Y.
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