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Installed a hitch and wiring harness on my M3

Discussion in 'Model 3' started by xpitxbullx, Jun 15, 2018.

  1. xpitxbullx

    xpitxbullx Member

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    7A2DD8A8-2378-4BF7-8DB2-8DA46E0162F1.jpeg

    Installed an Eco Hitch on my M3. I also wired a 4 prong harness for about $25 in parts. The wiring is also completely hidden. It accelerates like I’m not pulling anything. The trailer has standard bulbs and works fine but I’m going to switch them out for LED.
     
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  2. xpitxbullx

    xpitxbullx Member

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    I wired the harness behind the tail light plugs. 3 wires on one side and 1 on the other. Tesla Model 3 tail lights are 12v. Perfect. I used red quick splice connectors (22g-16g).

    Slot 1 - ground (18g wire)
    Slot 2 - running lights (22g wire)
    Slot 3 - brake/turn indicator (22g wire)
    Slot 4 - empty
    Slot 5 - reverse (not needed for harness)
     
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  3. xpitxbullx

    xpitxbullx Member

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    Tucked away...

    F246E780-6C8F-4FF8-874B-4F37D5A619C5.jpeg

    Called to duty...

    108C9231-C064-4DD9-90E1-AD4FC5B9CD83.jpeg
     
  4. CUBldr97

    CUBldr97 Member

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    looks great... did you put in a spacer between the hitch and the body? what hitch did you use?
     
  5. CUBldr97

    CUBldr97 Member

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  6. Skione65

    Skione65 Member

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    I didn’t really want to get into the fray here after reading the links posted. However since in was initially interested in the EcoHitch being a road biker I will. Now I’m not so sure unless proper measure are taken.

    (1) I feel I would feel safer with the FULL pad barrier between the stop bar mounts and the aluminum frame as opposed to just 8 tiny nylon washers on each of 8 steel studs. I realize there’s a tiny gap now between the steel hitch and the aluminum frame but I’d still be nervous about no barrier and pass through. May be sufficient but who knows and no way to check on a recurring basis to make sure all is well without an hours long breakdown and pull apart of the rear bumper setup.

    (2) As someone mentioned what about the OEM Factory steel studs Tesla has protruding from the aluminum frame/body? According to TorkLift it’s just a very thin coating on the studs that hey says ‘wears away relatively quickly’. I don’t know if there’s any credence to that statement but hopefully someone could tweet Elon/Tesla this issue to make sure afew years down the road we don’t all have some kind of corrosion issues on the bumper end of the vehicle. I haven’t researched the varied steel/aluminum diagram breakdown of the 3 but I know they’re out there.

    Just a few of the issues I thought about while reading the ofrementined links and problems.

    Ski
     
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  7. xpitxbullx

    xpitxbullx Member

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    It’s an Eco Hitch. I used nylon washers supplied with the hitch. I would have preferred a pad.
     
  8. jamnmon66

    jamnmon66 Member

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    I'll be following your lead in a few weeks. Thanks for being the Guinea pig.

    I'm interested to hear if you have any errors due to the higher current load on the brake/tail lights. No idea if this is monitored by the software. I'm sure LED lights on the trailer will reduce the chance of any problems.
     
  9. Tezlanian

    Tezlanian Member

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    Does this void your drive train warranty?
     
  10. Daniel in SD

    Daniel in SD Active Member

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    Yes, but only if it's the cause of the failure.
     
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  11. Randy Spencer

    Randy Spencer Active Member

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    Um, this thread is about the Eco Hitch for the Model 3. The model 3 is made of steel, not aluminum, so the dissimilar metal issue on the article about the Model S is not relevant to the new hitch. They did include the nylon washers, but it should not be of concern on this model.

    This is the first I have read of someone wiring up the hitch but there are otherwise full writeups about this product:

    Torklift Central Stealth EcoHitch for Model 3
    What about the tow hitch?
    Tow hitch bike rack?

    -Randy
     
  12. dhrivnak

    dhrivnak Active Member

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    I assume the very thin washers are to ensure there is no galvanizing corrosion between the Al and Steel. I have seen some bad examples of this on the Roadster and Steel bolts.
     
  13. dhrivnak

    dhrivnak Active Member

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    The rear bumper is definitely Al. I put the washers between the hitch and the bumper.
     
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  14. xpitxbullx

    xpitxbullx Member

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    There is a camera snake on Amazon you can get for $30 to snake up from the hole and inspect for rust damage. Yogoo, I think it’s called. Eliminates wondering if it’s causing corrosion issues and you don’t have to disassemble your bumper. :)
     
  15. CUBldr97

    CUBldr97 Member

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    Randy no, the rear of the model 3 is AL... see image
     

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  16. Randy Spencer

    Randy Spencer Active Member

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    When I took my plates off, all this water flowed out and left what looked like rust between the plates. Made me think it was steel of some sort.

    IMG_1160.jpeg

    Thanks for the info. I just tested with a magnet and I was wrong.

    -Randy
     
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  17. xpitxbullx

    xpitxbullx Member

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    5418372F-3FCA-43B4-9A0E-32C910813230.jpeg

    Finally got the image to upload. Here is the wiring when pulled up from the lower trunk compartment.
     
  18. jamnmon66

    jamnmon66 Member

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    Any problems with this so far? I think I'm going to copy you soon.
     
  19. xpitxbullx

    xpitxbullx Member

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    #19 xpitxbullx, Jul 25, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2018
    CB2AC5D2-0B57-4023-95BB-980C5D77FD4C.jpeg
    No issues at all. Pulls my ATV and trailer like it’s not even there (1050 lbs). I was careful to make secure connections when I wired the harness. Everything is performing perfectly. I’ve recently changed the bulbs on the trailer to LED to reduce the load even thought the incandescent bulbs worked fine while they were still being used.

    I do recommend getting a hitch mount with a d-ring to fasten your safety chains. My previous setup on my Dodge Challenger has the hook rings on the hitch’s main body.
     
  20. jamnmon66

    jamnmon66 Member

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    Very cool. Good tip. Thanks again for posting this.
     
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