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Is there any efficient method of getting to a P model?

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I made the huge mistake of buying a 2022 LR Y with the 20" induction wheels.

The performance model would have been only a couple thousand more.

Is there any efficient method of trading in to a performance model without getting completely cratered by transaction costs?
 
Unless you really want track mode (which is a legitimate want), adding acceleration boost will get you very close to the performance model with slightly better ride quality and range due to the smaller wheels.
I used to have a Porsche Carrera S (cabriolet) that had the same 0-60 as a booster LR and it was not fast.

4.2 second 0-60 is nowhere close to 3.5 second 0-60.

I feel like just 10 years ago a 3.5 second car would have costs hundreds of thousands of dollars.

The only reason i have LR is because i never wanted the Y. I wanted a CT and the Tesla salesperson convinced me that the LR would have less depreciation and would be easier for me to sell/trade-in when the CT is out but I'm definitely regretting not getting a P now.

Especially since after you get the 20" induction and the boost, the same price is the same.
 
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Unless you really want track mode (which is a legitimate want)
Which the Model Y doesn't even have yet!

But really, just sell your Y on Carvana/Vroom/etc. You will make a good chunk back, they're worth a lot. Or, if you see a fairly new Performance model on one of those websites, trade to them and you won't get hit with tax as badly if your state works like that.
 
I made the huge mistake of buying a 2022 LR Y with the 20" induction wheels.

The performance model would have been only a couple thousand more.

Is there any efficient method of trading in to a performance model without getting completely cratered by transaction costs?
Yes. Impatient morons are paying well above retail for LR’s while Performance models can be had at MSRP with a very short wait.

You could probably make the swap for close to the same price.
 
Because LR has more than enough acceleration for most of us?

I am awaiting LR delivery in June. Have zero interest in a P. If I could, I would get a SR as I don't need the range either.
But it's the same price. Why would you willingly pay the same price for something to get less (performance) in return.

I could understand if te LR was like 10k cheaper or got more range, but it's literally the same price and also you literally only get like 10 more miles of range.
 
But it's the same price. Why would you willingly pay the same price for something to get less (performance) in return.

I could understand if te LR was like 10k cheaper or got more range, but it's literally the same price and also you literally only get like 10 more miles or range.
Not sure where you are looking but its $5,000 less in the US for a LR vs a P.

For that price, I get 15 less miles in range (not that I care), and a faster 0 to 60 time which I do not care about even a little bit.
 
Not sure where you are looking but its $5,000 less in the US for a LR vs a P.

For that price, I get 15 less miles in range (not that I care), and a faster 0 to 60 time which I do not care about even a little bit.
This is true but as i said, i made the mistake of buying the 20" induction wheels which are 2000 extra and are free with the performance. If i buy the acceleration boost for $2000. Then I'm at a 1000 price difference.

So yes, if you don't buy the wheels and don't buy acceleration boost you save $5k by buying a LR. As i said in my post these are all my mistakes.

But even if you can live with the Gemini wheels. $5k is still pennies compared to the price of the car in order to get performance that would have been in supercars just <10 years ago
 
Thread was answered in post #2. There is zilch one can do to close the gap. I'm not sure how one mistakes ordering a LR vs a P, I can only assume it wasn't that important to begin with. Just get AB, test it for a few hours. Return the purchase within 24 hours... if you're not happy. That's a helluva lot cheaper than the losses incurred in selling and buying again.
 
This is true but as i said, i made the mistake of buying the 20" induction wheels which are 2000 extra and are free with the performance. If i buy the acceleration boost for $2000. Then I'm at a 1000 price difference.

So yes, if you don't buy the wheels and don't buy acceleration boost you save $5k by buying a LR. As i said in my post these are all my mistakes.

But even if you can live with the Gemini wheels. $5k is still pennies compared to the price of the car in order to get performance that would have been in supercars just <10 years ago
Just FYI, its not really supercar performance. Yes the 0 to 60 is nice, but it cheats to get there and once you get above 60 the power really drops off. It only traps at about 115 in the quarter mile. That is hardly supercar performance.
 
Why would anyone want a LR over a P?
Because that low profile tires don't work for everyone. And price difference wasn't always $5k. And until December MYP didn't come with all seasons. Possibly higher insurance costs. LR is fast enough and at least on paper has higher range. Somewhat better ride. It is not always about the money, but $5k is still $5k. It is apparently nothing for you, but many of us aren't in the habit of spending more than we need to just because slightly more gets you a better 0-60 number.