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Issue of having 1 NEMA 14-50 receptacle and 2 EV cars

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I don't have a WC, just a mobile charger which charges at 32A, I don't think the advantage of going to 48A is substantial since I'm charging overnight.
I guess the 40A adapter for $95 is the right one. I thought in case I see a hardwired WC somewhere I could use the 48A adapter to charge the leaf faster.
 
I don't have a WC, just a mobile charger which charges at 32A, I don't think the advantage of going to 48A is substantial since I'm charging overnight.
I guess the 40A adapter for $95 is the right one. I thought in case I see a hardwired WC somewhere I could use the 48A adapter to charge the leaf faster.
What is the max your leaf can accept? I have an old one that tops out at 6.6kW so no need for the higher rated adapter.

I’d personally size the adapter to the leaf and not the evse in your own garage.
 
I have been using the NEMA 14-50 receptacle to charge my Model 3, my wife's Leaf can connect at the same outlet, but the hassle of unplug and re-plug is cumbersome and the outlet is getting loose. ( I need to mention that we don't want to charge simultaneously). Do you guys have any suggestions, like having a double outlet, where both charging cable from Tesla and Leaf are permanently connected ( of course charging only one at the time) or an adapter where charging cables could interchangeably connected to.
We have a Model Y and a Q4 E-tron and charge both using the NeoCharge. It's plugged into a Nema 14-50 outlet on a 50amp breaker. I have the Q4 set at 20amps and the Model Y at 20amps for simultaneous charging on their respective mobile connectors. Works great with no issues.
 
I've use one of these 14-50 splitters since May 2020 (price is still the same $99.99.
Nice handles, no risk of touching "hot" pins by gripping a connector without a handle (I've done that … it more than tingles even though it's only 120V.)
Well made, durable, lives outside (not in direct rain) and gets unplugged and plugged in a couple of times a month.

If the existing outlet is "getting loose" it's quite important to have it fixed. This can be as simple as opening the breaker, testing for voltage (to be sure) and then checking the terminals are securely holding the wires, tightening the outlet in its box and generally "eyeballing" the outlet for signs of heat.

The most common "things went wrong" post I've seen about home charging is loose 14-50 outlets overheating due to high resistance connections at the wire terminals.


51XXOfVMr8L._AC_SL1080_.jpg
 
If you use adapters like the adapter in post #24, please keep the total load from the attached sources to <= 40 amps for a 50 amp breaker.
If you cannot manage the total load to <= 40 amps this type of adapter will likely cause the breaker to overheat or trip. If the breaker fails to trip (yes, this happens) you will have an increased risk of a fire. This type of adapter IMHO, is the least safe alternative to OP's goal in this situation.
Cheap? Yes. Safe? No.

To those that are familiar with electrical codes in your areas: is this type of adapter code compliant?
 
On a side note to this.. I currently have a 14-50 outlet fed off a 50amp circuit. I'd like to put a junction box before the outlet that has a physical switch to send power to either a hardwired HPWC, or to the existing 14-50. 99.9% of the time it would be set to power the HPWC, but once in a blue moon it would be nice to be able to flip the switch and kill the HPWC and instead have power at the 14-50.

I don't want to spend $300 on a smart splitter for an 14-50 outlet I will almost never use... Do I have to go the sub-panel/breakers route on this?
 
On a side note to this.. I currently have a 14-50 outlet fed off a 50amp circuit. I'd like to put a junction box before the outlet that has a physical switch to send power to either a hardwired HPWC, or to the existing 14-50. 99.9% of the time it would be set to power the HPWC, but once in a blue moon it would be nice to be able to flip the switch and kill the HPWC and instead have power at the 14-50.

I don't want to spend $300 on a smart splitter for an 14-50 outlet I will almost never use... Do I have to go the sub-panel/breakers route on this?
Sub-panel is usually the least expensive as it’s a very known entity.

There are some double pole double throw switches out there that would work too.
 
In a perfect world I'd love just a simple A/B switch to send power either one direction or the other. (That or a tri-switch that goes A or B or BOTH OFF)

Without doing much research I'd guess my dream isn't to code, but it sure would be nice.
 
In a perfect world I'd love just a simple A/B switch to send power either one direction or the other. (That or a tri-switch that goes A or B or BOTH OFF)

Without doing much research I'd guess my dream isn't to code, but it sure would be nice.
Not cheap, but they do exist:



Cheaper option if you’re willing to rig something up yourself (someone in the comments mentions doing exactly what you’re trying to do):

Baomain Universal Rotary Changeover Switch SZW26-63/D303.3 660V 63A 3 Position 3 Phase
 
Not cheap, but they do exist:



Cheaper option if you’re willing to rig something up yourself (someone in the comments mentions doing exactly what you’re trying to do):

Baomain Universal Rotary Changeover Switch SZW26-63/D303.3 660V 63A 3 Position 3 Phase
Holy cow option 2 is exactly what I'm looking for! Thanks!
 
Holy cow option 2 is exactly what I'm looking for! Thanks!
That looks like a cool device. But the price looks like "too good to be true" and the brand name looks like "Made by a company not subject to anybody's code requirements or lawsuits after your house burns down".

I know the description says "600V" and "63A", but look at the label in the picture. I can't make out the whole thing, but it's pretty clear that it says "240V/2.5A". I see "63A" further down, but can't make out whatever is in front of it.

61VYT474GgL._SL1200_.jpg
 
That looks like a cool device. But the price looks like "too good to be true" and the brand name looks like "Made by a company not subject to anybody's code requirements or lawsuits after your house burns down".

I know the description says "600V" and "63A", but look at the label in the picture. I can't make out the whole thing, but it's pretty clear that it says "240V/2.5A". I see "63A" further down, but can't make out whatever is in front of it.

61VYT474GgL._SL1200_.jpg

It is pretty common for electrical wiring devices to have an amps rating that is concerned with the max power that it can carry which relates to the size and rating of the upstream breaker. And then there is a what seems to be very large voltage rating that has to do (I think) with the insulation...since over time insulation properties break down with high voltages. This is the 600v rating.
Note when you buy house wiring (i.e. romex) it is for 120 or 240v and some amps based on the copper wire size. But the voltage rating is 600v which far beyond what your house uses. This limitation is probably more concerned with the rating for the insulation (my guess) and not the actual voltage you would be using.

Mike
 
It is pretty common for electrical wiring devices to have an amps rating that is concerned with the max power that it can carry which relates to the size and rating of the upstream breaker. And then there is a what seems to be very large voltage rating that has to do (I think) with the insulation...since over time insulation properties break down with high voltages. This is the 600v rating.
Note when you buy house wiring (i.e. romex) it is for 120 or 240v and some amps based on the copper wire size. But the voltage rating is 600v which far beyond what your house uses. This limitation is probably more concerned with the rating for the insulation (my guess) and not the actual voltage you would be using.

Mike
Um. I'm not an electrician: Electronics engineer, yeah.

But as part of $DAY_JOB, I often got involved in lightning surge testing, which is just what it sounds like. Lightning strikes things, like lightning arrestors on the tops of buildings; then, $DIETY's own surge of current goes down the iron girders of the building into the ground. But there's honking great big moving magnetic fields associated with that surge that cuts through all the other copper wires in the building that induce energy surges onto those wires.

Further, lightning can and does hit good old power poles up and down the street. Yeah, most power poles have a lonely little top wire on top which is meant to intercept a lightning strike before it hits the actual power-carrying stuff. That top wire is periodically connected to a big wire that goes into the ground. But, once again, great big surges of current are going to go down those wires on their way to ground; big magnetic fields couple into everything else, and... yeah.

So, minimal surges (buildings with chicken wire fences built into the walls) have to survive energy surges. The test set I happen to use a lot generates across the terminals, when said terminals are open, a 1 kV, 1.5 us rise time, 50 us fall time pulse; if one short-circuits the terminals, one gets a 500A peak, 8 us rise time, and 20 us fall time. (It's energy, not a fixed voltage; what one actually gets depends upon what's hooked up across the terminals.)

That's a minimal pulse. For stuff on street corners, we crank the energy levels up to 15 kV or so (open circuit), with (at least) one of the test provisios says that, with a certain grade of cheesecloth draped over the contents of a street corner box exposed to a surge like this, "The equipment under test shall not become a fire or fragmentation hazard." Fun stuff.

What this means, though, is that city power is dirty. Contactors opening and closing, lightning strikes, and what-all. The generally low impedances of AC power circuits tends to shunt the maximum voltages seen by a lightning strike in the neighborhood down to vaguely reasonable levels. So, 600 VAC (about 850V pk) is likely enough to keep the wires from breaking down.

Finally: Stuff that gets actually connected to AC power really does have standards that mandate minimum gaps between the city power side and the low-voltage side. That "UL" label one sees on practically anything hooked up to 120 VAC isn't there for the yuks.
 
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I decided to use the Tesla mobile charger connected to the plug permanently, and buy the EVSEadapters.com adapter (Tesla to J1772). It just arrived, I will test it on my 2019 Nissan Leaf SV Plus.

How did this ever work out for you?

I’m still using an old 2015 installed J1772 EVSE in our garage with a J1772 tomTesla adaptor to charge our 2 Tesla Ys.

At our cabin we have a permanently mounted Nissan EVSE with the same adaptor hanging on a 50 amp outlet to charge our teslas. Thet Pit pit max 30:amps (27 MPH) vs 32 (30 MPH) that the Tesla Mobile connector would.

As relatively inexpensive Tesla Mobile connectors are, I just ordered 3 Tesla Mobile connectors and I’m selling 2 mobile Nissan EVSEs and the hard wired Siemens/Eaton on eBay. I should net more for the Nissan EVSEs than the cost of the 3 Tesla Mobile connectors.
 
Um. Get a J-1772 based wall connector with one cable with the reach to get to both cars.

The NEMA 14-50 can handle a steady 40A load, that’s not a problem. But even with a high quality socket, those things’ fundamental technology isn’t really designed for multiple insertions and removals over time, as you’re finding out. A good quality one will last longer, true, but will eventually die. One that stays plugged in will last indefinitely.
This is what we do. Our ChargePoint juices up her PHEV and it takes all of 30 seconds to slap on the adapter and start topping off my Tesla. We can't charge both at the same time but it's pretty rare that we need to. If we are both empty I just charge whichever one we need most urgently and swap over after.
 
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Home EV Charging Installation Made Easy | NeoCharge

Go to "Products" ------ "Smart Splitter"

Load sharing device feeds two loads (one at a time) from a single outlet.

Multiple options available.

Mine works flawlessly. Nice concept.

Device (or similar) discussed somewhere in these forums - couldn't find where - sorry.

Safe, and much less expensive than panel/wiring changes.
Hi - I've been looking at this NeoCharge splitter but cannot for the life of me figure out whether the smart scheduling thing works or not. I have a MYLR but my wife has a Volvo recharge - and for whatever reason, the Volvo is advertised as being able to schedule charging but in reality there's no way to do it. The NeoCharge website says it's in "early access" phase whatever that means, I get emails from them saying it is schedule-able, Amazon reviews seem to indicate that it is also, but their customer service is pretty evasive about it (probably a bad sign).

Have you been able to schedule the NeoCharge to take advantage of time of use rates?