Dodge minivans have that as well. Admittedly the Caravan is a pretty high end vehicle, but so is a Tesla.
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After taking these pictures I couldn't get the frunk closed. I had to abort twice and got it the third time. I hate to email them about something so trivial but I guess I'm going to type that up now. I never thought a little dent on a car would be so aggravating/upsetting.
There's an easy solution to this. I just tell friends/relatives that my insurance company told me not to let anyone else drive it!
iKhalid
Member
Since I had mine delivered, I followed the proper procedure, yet I still have the dent.
One thing I noticed, it was always a hassle to close the frunk and it developed a problem where the frunk wasn't releasing 50% of the time, and I had to push the secondary button to have it released until the ranger's visit. Now closing the frunk is so smooth. I guess the way the frunk was rough caused the crease.
I asked a question before if anyone was able to have it fixed at a paintless dent fix shop but looks like nobody did!
One thing I noticed, it was always a hassle to close the frunk and it developed a problem where the frunk wasn't releasing 50% of the time, and I had to push the secondary button to have it released until the ranger's visit. Now closing the frunk is so smooth. I guess the way the frunk was rough caused the crease.
I asked a question before if anyone was able to have it fixed at a paintless dent fix shop but looks like nobody did!
Knobby
Member
What did the Ranger do to make the closing/latching action so smooth? There are two possible concerns being discussed in this thread: excessive weatherstripping interference, and extra stiff latch.
I've stopped using the Frunk, like others have, which is too bad because it's one of the cool features.
BTW my build date/VIN is close to that of the the original posters... someone else mentioned that too. Wonder if it is batch related.
iKhalid
Member
I honestly don't know. All I know is that he has done it really fast and possibly without tools. Could be what you guys have been discussing. It also fixed the latch releasing issue, so I would dig for the fix in the forums. Oh, I remember I asked if he used some type of grease (because I was surprised how smooth it became) but he replied with no.
islandbayy
Active Member
I regularally put silicon spray on my latch. One little squirt once/month and it opens and closes smoothly. Without doing that, it becomes difficult to close and sticks upon opening.
I use my Frunk multiple times/day, and have had my car for over 1 year 3 moths. No frunk dent at the latch. I, however, am developing creases in my frunk lid following the glued in supports from the underside. So instead of a little frunk dent in the front, now I am getting longer creases down the entire tops. When I get a chance to drive to Highland, I will show them. I just havent had a reason to drive 1+ hours their accept for that.
One thought for my issue though, that was brought up, is over-loading the frunk and forcing it closed, While I use the heck out of the frunk, I make sure NOT to over load it, for this VERY reason.
Like others, months ago I just stopped using my frunk. I've opened and closed it exactly once in the last 6 months (car's a year old). Before that, I used it once or twice for luggage, but the rest of the times I opened/closed it were to do the Tesla demo thing to various people, to get the oohs/ahhs reactions to the "look, there's no engine!" thing. I don't think I have The Dent, I've looked and don't see anything, but I fear The Dent is coming if I use the frunk at all, so I don't. Which kind of ruins part of the Model S for me. (You listening, Tesla??????)
Gizmotoy
Active Member
I'm not sure if it's abnormal or not, but I know mine is hard to close, makes a loud pop when opened, and my hood is damaged. It's minor, not quite a crease or a dent, but more like a ripple, but it is damaged.
Zarwin
Member
Aaaannnd, now that I'm obsessing over the hood, I can see a very very light ripple in it around where my right hand would be pressing, separate from the crease. Maybe it was always there, since I can only see it at an angle with a good reflection. Both the crease and ripple are so minor there really is nothing to fix and they aren't noticeable at all, but now I'm pretty much done using the frunk until the difficulty to close is addressed in some way. Since I can feel it flex a little under my hands when pushing closed, the ripple will just get worse if I use it I'm pretty sure. Next tire rotation I'll get them to look at it.
Gizmotoy
Active Member
I ran out to the car to do a little test. My weather stripping looks exactly like yours, and after jabbing the weather stripping down as you've done, it does seem easier to close. I tried removing the black accent pieces to see if that helped, but it didn't seem to. They weren't even attached to the car. It looks like they're supposed to adhere to the bumper, but mine were just loose and basically fell off when I poked them.
Further, it also looks like my first latch (one closest to the front of the car) is malfunctioning. It's not always returning to the fully closed position. It's getting stuck on something inside the bumper.
Great. More frunk issues.
Can anyone without frunk problems post what their weather striping looks like from that angle?
bollar
Disgruntled Member
Zarwin
Member
Reading through this thread, and this one:
Frunk lid minor damage from normal use | Forums | Tesla Motors
I'm going to guess this is more of an issue with cars manufactured this calendar year. Though not a big sample size, many of the issues seem to be reported on cars with VINs 34XXX and higher. Also, one person on the thread linked above stated:
"I have a Dec. 2012 model and I can confirm that the older Frunk hoods are a LOT more sturdy feeling than the newer ones. I know because on a few occasions I've picked up a loaner while my car was worked on. I was immediately surprised at how flimsy the newer hood felt. The original Frunk hood is a heavier and feels like a typical ICE car's hood."
Perhaps this is where some of the weight reductions came from?
Frunk lid minor damage from normal use | Forums | Tesla Motors
I'm going to guess this is more of an issue with cars manufactured this calendar year. Though not a big sample size, many of the issues seem to be reported on cars with VINs 34XXX and higher. Also, one person on the thread linked above stated:
"I have a Dec. 2012 model and I can confirm that the older Frunk hoods are a LOT more sturdy feeling than the newer ones. I know because on a few occasions I've picked up a loaner while my car was worked on. I was immediately surprised at how flimsy the newer hood felt. The original Frunk hood is a heavier and feels like a typical ICE car's hood."
Perhaps this is where some of the weight reductions came from?
iKhalid
Member
Not using the frunk is not an option for us. We have two children/car seats occupying the back seat and always carry a double stroller in the hatch. If we go grocery shopping, to the mall, on a trip, etc., the extra bags end up in the frunk. We bought the car to replace an SUV knowing that we would have the additional storage space. I should have waited for the Model X like originally planned! We would have all the storage need in the cabin, would have got an additional $2,500 tax credit from Massachusetts and I wouldn't be stuck looking at a frunk dent for 8 years and infinite miles :wink:
Gizmotoy
Active Member
Mine's a November 2013, and there were tons of complaints about dents in the frunk even back then, all the way back to when I ordered in late August. It's not really a new thing, though there may have been changes as well. We know they've attempted a couple fixes for this issue so far (first additional bracing, then the "orange foam").
Attempt at a redesign:
- The hood is attached to the nose cone.
- The latch is at the bottom of the nose cone.
- There is a hinge where the nose cone and hood meet. Can't see from the exterior.
- When the latch is popped the nose cone opens from the bottom and the hood can then be lifted.
- To close you put the hood down and push the nose cone back in place. Similar mechanism to closing the door.
- Dent/crack the nose cone and it's a quick/cheap repair.
...or just have the hood close like the hatch. Haven't heard of one hatch randomly popping open.
- The hood is attached to the nose cone.
- The latch is at the bottom of the nose cone.
- There is a hinge where the nose cone and hood meet. Can't see from the exterior.
- When the latch is popped the nose cone opens from the bottom and the hood can then be lifted.
- To close you put the hood down and push the nose cone back in place. Similar mechanism to closing the door.
- Dent/crack the nose cone and it's a quick/cheap repair.
...or just have the hood close like the hatch. Haven't heard of one hatch randomly popping open.
They are somewhat limited by the regulations. I'm guessing they will have a fix coming but it generally takes them quite a while to get it right (look how long it took for the centre console). And the hatch as opened randomly. It appears the culprit was a leather fob holder.
