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Just bought a New 2018 LR RWD from Tesla

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I was browsing for cars last night and I saw a New 2018 Model 3 LR RWD with 117 miles for sale. I jumped on it and paid the $100 ordering fee. Vin is 027XXX.

It is sold as a brand new car with the full 4 year/50,000 mile warranty. I also got a price adjustment on it of $2,470 so I think it's a good deal...?

Is there anything I should look out for with this car? Pick up is at Feb 9.
 
Who are you buying it from, Tesla? Just look the car over carefully inside and out in bright light before you sign the papers. Take pictures of any discrepancies like paint problems, etc. and document that Tesla will fix them. Look at all the info videos on the Tesla site. Download the Tesla App and be ready to pair your phone. This is the best Tesla Model 3 and it's no longer sold. Verify what is included, autopilot ( AP ), enhanced autopilot ( EAP ), full self driving ( FSD ), premium connectivity, etc. Cars built when yours was had extra fees for all the driver assists except premium connectivity ( satellite maps, streaming, etc ) and TACC cruise control were included.

Make sure it's a new title.
 
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Thanks! Yes, I am buying it from Tesla. Also, loan document says it is a new car.

Build is:
  • Long Range Rear-Wheel Drive
  • Red Multi-Coat Paint
  • 18’’ Aero Wheels
  • All Black Premium Interior
  • Autopilot
I'm curious why it sat so long, hope it wasn't a showroom car but most likely it is.
 
Ours is VIN 44xxx, built in July 2018. So I'd wildly guess your 27xxx might be May or so. So that car has a story of some sort. Road test? Returned under the 7-day plan? Damaged and fixed? I find it a little hard to make sense of any of those for something like 21 months. You may never know. But as lolder said, if it looks good, go for it. You have the full warranty.
 
I was browsing for cars last night and I saw a New 2018 Model 3 LR RWD with 117 miles for sale. I jumped on it and paid the $100 ordering fee. Vin is 027XXX.

It is sold as a brand new car with the full 4 year/50,000 mile warranty. I also got a price adjustment on it of $2,470 so I think it's a good deal...?

Is there anything I should look out for with this car? Pick up is at Feb 9.

Nice congrats, is a bit odd a 2018 is selling as new but if it's legit then great find. I have a LR RWD myself, what color is it? Also what rated range are they advertising on it, 310m or 325m?
 
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Thanks guys.

@CharleyBC - I'm also curious as to the story of the car, but couldn't really wait until someone can explain it to me -- I noticed that any existing inventory at tesla.com tend to go away after 10 mins or so. Not sure if it was returned under the 7-day period because this would have been a used car (previously titled?)

@mojoe - this is the red with black interior. Although I love the color, I would have preferred not to pay for the extra cost. They had it advertised as 325 miles.
 
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Thanks guys.

@CharleyBC - I'm also curious as to the story of the car, but couldn't really wait until someone can explain it to me -- I noticed that any existing inventory at tesla.com tend to go away after 10 mins or so. Not sure if it was returned under the 7-day period because this would have been a used car (previously titled?)

@mojoe - this is the red with black interior. Although I love the color, I would have preferred not to pay for the extra cost. They had it advertised as 325 miles.

I agree, stock goes soooo quick on the main site. Nice hope it all works out for you, hit us with updates when you have them
 
Is there anything I should look out for with this car? Pick up is at Feb 9.

They had it advertised as 325 miles.

I would request that it be charged to at least 80% for your pickup. And then when you get there, take the rated miles divided by the % charge (you will need to swap the display options from distance to energy to get both numbers at the same time; do not assume 80%). You cannot do this projection accurately enough for lower states of charge. (Also, make sure it is running at least a late 2019 software (2019.40, etc.) before doing this check...)

I'd expect to see something like 310-315, and if you see anything over 320 I guess I would count yourself lucky. Effectively the battery probably has about 2000 miles on it if it's been sitting for 18 months, unless special steps have been taken.

I'd check the build date too. I'd be a bit surprised after over a year (18 months?) if it still had over 320 miles at a full charge. It's not just the mileage, it's also the time - but would be an interesting situation to check on to see how much you actually see - if loss of capacity is dominated by mileage, maybe you'd actually see 325! To be clear, this vehicle SHOULD have 325 rated miles at 100% - 310 rated miles is only going to be seen if you're running software from early 2019. If you see ~310rmi, running late 2019 software, that means there has been 15 rated miles loss of capacity. There is no ambiguity here AFAIK.

You may also want to check that any recall type repairs (charge port, etc.) have been done if applicable. I don't know what they all are, but people who bring cars into service centers report a lot of items being done.

There's a standard checklist around here of things to check, which you'd definitely want to go through for any new purchase but especially this one. Obviously make sure all the panels under the car are attached (bolts, etc.).

Definitely would expect to find something, with a car that has been sitting around this long...
 
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I'd expect to see something like 310-315, and if you see anything over 320 I guess I would count yourself lucky. Effectively the battery probably has about 2000 miles on it if it's been sitting for 18 months, unless special steps have been taken.

Can you explain this further please? Are you saying that even if it's sitting, there is about a 2000 mile wear on the battery?
 
Am I missing something here? If they're passing it off as 'new' they're charging you full price minus the $2,470? That doesn't seem worth it for a car that, regardless if they call it new, by all standards is 2 years model old (they already are selling 2020 models) and the value will be significant less than that of a 2020 model.

I was looking to buy a 2018 'new' Outlander PHEV back in December for my wife and they also were not willing to drop the price much (only a few thousand as well from what I remember). I walked away from the deal.

I feel like the discount needs to be a lot more. Maybe I'm just too unrealistic? lol
 
I was browsing for cars last night and I saw a New 2018 Model 3 LR RWD with 117 miles for sale. I jumped on it and paid the $100 ordering fee. Vin is 027XXX.

It is sold as a brand new car with the full 4 year/50,000 mile warranty. I also got a price adjustment on it of $2,470 so I think it's a good deal...?

Is there anything I should look out for with this car? Pick up is at Feb 9.

I have a 29xxx and here are a few things I missed at the rush delivery showroom.

1. A paint defect/nick on the front left side - lower lip of the bumper, not a huge deal, I didn't have it fixed as I found it during PPF application.

2. Driver side rear triangle glass piece (the small one that people break to snoop in the trunk) had a chip, no big deal, can't see it unless you look.

3. The hidden storage space in the trunk. Early models had it all crumped due to bad shipping practices by the supplier. Mine was meh, but I can live with it as it stores stuff still.

4. The glove compartment is slightly lower on the right side (like 1 degree slant). Sometimes the door will open itself after you open it. The actuator/locking tab is stiff and didn't fully get pushed out by the spring; I usually just give it a tug and the glove box closes and locks.
Have them fix it if this bothers you. I'll probably bring it up before my warranty fails?

5. There was a slashed on the passenger A pillar. Looks like from a tool that they use to scrape off the stickers. Could happen to anyone. Pay attention when you inspect the insides.

6. The battery harness will have a bulletin for replacement. Ask if this is already done.

7. The rear caliper clips are bad from the original supplier. They'll produce a clicking sound when at low speeds. Quick fix in the SC.

Post delivery

Important things to note after 40,000kms (25,000 miles). My car developed a click from the front axle. They replaced the whole thing under warranty. Still have yet to give me the invoice of the work... Cause is unknown and being hidden under the rug.

Horn failed after I went joy riding after the Raptors NBA win. Both replaced under warranty via Mobile Support.

The VIN should give you unlimited premium data package for free since this car was built before the switch over in July 2018.

Happy EVing.
 
Am I missing something here? If they're passing it off as 'new' they're charging you full price minus the $2,470? That doesn't seem worth it for a car that, regardless if they call it new, by all standards is 2 years model old (they already are selling 2020 models) and the value will be significant less than that of a 2020 model.

I was looking to buy a 2018 'new' Outlander PHEV back in December for my wife and they also were not willing to drop the price much (only a few thousand as well from what I remember). I walked away from the deal.

I feel like the discount needs to be a lot more. Maybe I'm just too unrealistic? lol

Ha, not really sure which one of us in unrealistic. I'm after a RWD since I live in California and really don't have a use for AWD and since I can't get them new (at least right now), I decided to go for this one.

They had another one a few days ago that lasted a good 10 mins, it was a 2019 used Model 3 with about 4k miles, gray with 19" wheels. That one went for a few hundred more than what I'm paying.
 
Can you explain this further please? Are you saying that even if it's sitting, there is about a 2000 mile wear on the battery?

The battery will drain 1% per day according to Tesla (sometimes it can be a little more). Don't know how long it has been sitting, but let's assume 18 months. 18*30*3.1rmi = 1674 rated miles. So I rounded up to 2000 rated miles. It would have this battery cycling even if it were plugged in all the time (which it probably wasn't, anyway). Obviously the depth of cycling is much reduced if it were plugged in, but the same number of miles would come off. But it wasn't left plugged in so it doesn't matter.

It's possible that the car was allowed to discharge to near zero at some point (it needs to be near 0%, not near 20%) and then it went into a battery conserving mode and the total number may actually be a lot lower. But then you also have a battery that was left at near zero SoC for a significant period of time, and it's not clear that that would be better.

Just something to look at. Any new car like this could be a great deal at the right price. You just have to accurately assess the condition of the vehicle. For a vehicle this age, you should treat it as a used car and inspect it with a fine-toothed comb.

The VIN should give you unlimited premium data package for free since this car was built before the switch over in July 2018.

I thought this was based on order date, not build date. Though I am not sure.
 
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The battery will drain 1% per day according to Tesla (sometimes it can be a little more). Don't know how long it has been sitting, but let's assume 18 months. 18*30*3.1rmi = 1674 rated miles. So I rounded up to 2000 rated miles.

It's possible that the car was allowed to discharge to near zero at some point (it needs to be near 0%, not near 20%) and then it went into a battery conserving mode and the total number may actually be a lot lower. But then you also have a battery that was left at near zero SoC for a significant period of time, and it's not clear that that would be better.

Just something to look at. Any new car like this could be a great deal at the right price. You just have to assess the condition of the vehicle.



I thought this was based on order date, not build date. Though I am not sure.

Haha, they're so busy to miss so many little issues with their cars. I doubt they'll be on top of this ball (hopefully).
 
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The battery will drain 1% per day according to Tesla (sometimes it can be a little more). Don't know how long it has been sitting, but let's assume 18 months. 18*30*3.1rmi = 1674 rated miles. So I rounded up to 2000 rated miles. It would have this battery cycling even if it were plugged in all the time (which it probably wasn't, anyway). Obviously the depth of cycling is much reduced if it were plugged in, but the same number of miles would come off. But it wasn't left plugged in so it doesn't matter.

It's possible that the car was allowed to discharge to near zero at some point (it needs to be near 0%, not near 20%) and then it went into a battery conserving mode and the total number may actually be a lot lower. But then you also have a battery that was left at near zero SoC for a significant period of time, and it's not clear that that would be better.

Just something to look at. Any new car like this could be a great deal at the right price. You just have to accurately assess the condition of the vehicle. For a vehicle this age, you should treat it as a used car and inspect it with a fine-toothed comb.



I thought this was based on order date, not build date. Though I am not sure.

I’m a little confused too honestly. Mine has free unlimited connectivity and has shown as such from pickup. No free SC unfortunately though, but it’s not like the price break I got wasn’t enough on its own!
 
I’m a little confused too honestly. Mine has free unlimited connectivity and has shown as such from pickup.

Yours was probably not sold to you as new, though, right? Vehicles ordered as new prior to whatever the date was I believe have connectivity carry over (unlike free supercharging which is not transferable).

In any case, I don't know all the ins and outs but they are knowable. And I would not put any stock in what the website says in any case. My account shows pay-per-use Supercharging, and I have free unlimited Supercharging (there is no Supercharging history on my charging screen, and I bought the vehicle with FUSC). My brother has free unlimited Supercharging and he keeps getting charged for it, and having to work with Tesla to get it corrected, even though his account actually shows free unlimited Supercharging.

None of what the website, etc., says matters. All that matters is the actual conditions under which the vehicle was purchased.
 
Yours was probably not sold to you as new, though, right? Vehicles ordered as new prior to whatever the date was I believe have connectivity carry over (unlike free supercharging which is not transferable).

In any case, I don't know all the ins and outs but they are knowable. And I would not put any stock in what the website says in any case. My account shows pay-per-use Supercharging, and I have free unlimited Supercharging (there is no Supercharging history on my charging screen). My brother has free unlimited Supercharging and he keeps getting charged for it, and having to work with Tesla to get it corrected, even though his account actually shows free unlimited Supercharging.

None of what the website, etc., says matters. All that matters is the actual conditions under which the vehicle was purchased.
Was sold as new.