Launch is Imminent

[afadeev]

I have watched the tours and I have seen zero instances of the stainless panel being bolted on. Rather, they are bonded using structural adhesive.

I haven't seen how the panels are attached at all. I haven't seen any pics of videos of that process being documented anywhere. If you know a place, please do share.
It's mostly a point of curiosity for me, since the method of panel attachment is irrelevant for the purpose of this discussion. But it may have interesting maintenance implications.

You replied with:

but support of the body shape isn't one of them.

Is rigidity not support?

Not in the English speaking part of the world.

Rigidity (noun) - the quality or state of being rigid.
Rigid (adjective) -

1. stiff or unyielding; not pliant or flexible; hard: a rigid strip of metal.
2. firmly fixed or set.

Support (noun) -

1. the act or an instance of sustaining, upholding, helping, advocating for, etc.: Without emotional support I would never have made it through. Support for the party is growing among younger voters.
2. something that serves as a foundation, prop, brace, or stay:

One of your body parts can get rigid from the excitement, but it doesn't mean that it supports your body, or is part of its exoskeleton!

 

[jebinc]

I haven't seen how the panels are attached at all. I haven't seen any pics of videos of that process being documented anywhere. If you know a place, please do share.
It's mostly a point of curiosity for me, since the method of panel attachment is irrelevant for the purpose of this discussion. But it may have interesting maintenance implications.

One of your body parts can get rigid from the excitement, but it doesn't mean that it supports your body, or is part of its exoskeleton!

Mine could!

 

[Eric9610]

Yes, in order to get full power you need all of the dedicated hardware. But the CT has a 240V/9.6kW inverter in the bed. Lightning has a 240V/7.2kW inverter in the bed. I can build a cable with 2 male 14-50 plugs on it, plug one into the CT and plug the other end into a 14-50 outlet in my garage (after flipping the main breaker and/or removing the meter so as not to endanger the power company workers) and voila, I can power my house for only the cost of the cable. I need to actually measure my consumption but I am pretty sure I can run my house on 9.6kW. Not sure about 7.2kW.

If you read the details on the ford website the home backup can’t be ran from propwer outlets. It must go through the charger port and requires an 80amp outlet breaker. You will find this will not be as easy as you think…

 

[coleAK]

Yes, in order to get full power you need all of the dedicated hardware. But the CT has a 240V/9.6kW inverter in the bed. Lightning has a 240V/7.2kW inverter in the bed. I can build a cable with 2 male 14-50 plugs on it, plug one into the CT and plug the other end into a 14-50 outlet in my garage (after flipping the main breaker and/or removing the meter so as not to endanger the power company workers) and voila, I can power my house for only the cost of the cable. I need to actually measure my consumption but I am pretty sure I can run my house on 9.6kW. Not sure about 7.2kW.

It dosn’t work close to that way…. Outlets are jus that, one directional
Flow OUT.

The trucks in this scenario are no different then a generator. You will need to have a transfer switch installed on your home, most of these go near your meter. The switch acts as an alternate inflow feed into your home (alternate to the grid that is). So you switch off the grid (and the ability to back flow to the grid) and switch to the alternate power source (lightning or CT). Then you can go to your main breaker panel and switch off everything but the essentials, so you don’t use up the truck battery in a matter of hours.

Looking at $1-2k+ (and the cost of the extension cord you mentioned ($250-500)) of a proactive install before you could use the truck to power your home.

I have one as a back up to my back up battery bank off my solar.

 

[jebinc]

Interesting….

2023 S/W Holiday Update

Next, we will hear he is running for office.... wait for it.... https://x.com/TeslaSoftUpdate/status/1736655366757228746?s=20 My kids will be pissed. What a great way to punish Tesla customers...it's not like people were keeping or buying a D+ subscription just because it was viewable in a...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️]

let's hope nobody you love will be crushed by a Cybertruck who uses the opponents vehicle as crumple zone like a 1990s S-class.
Nowadays most vehicles are very very safe and have an appropriate crumple zone and protect pedestrians as much as they can.... well.... except for the Cybertruck

I would prefer they got crushed by a Cybertruck than an F-150. That would be a much more dignified way to die.

 

[strider]

It dosn’t work close to that way…. Outlets are jus that, one directional
Flow OUT.

The trucks in this scenario are no different then a generator. You will need to have a transfer switch installed on your home, most of these go near your meter. The switch acts as an alternate inflow feed into your home (alternate to the grid that is). So you switch off the grid (and the ability to back flow to the grid) and switch to the alternate power source (lightning or CT). Then you can go to your main breaker panel and switch off everything but the essentials, so you don’t use up the truck battery in a matter of hours.

Looking at $1-2k+ (and the cost of the extension cord you mentioned ($250-500)) of a proactive install before you could use the truck to power your home.

I have one as a back up to my back up battery bank off my solar.

Interesting. I didn't realize that electrons know the gender of the plug that they are flowing through. This must be some new physics. You are exactly correct that the truck will work like a generator. Switching off your main breaker and/or pulling your meter does the same thing as a transfer switch. It's just manual instead of automatic and lacks the physical interlock. I can promise you that once your house is isolated from the grid you can plug a generator into your house using a male-male plug and it will work. The only potential issue (not knowing how the onboard inverter works) is the neutral might float so some devices won't like it but it will definitely work.

I already have 14-50 outlets in my garage for charging. The wiring is sized for 40A of continuous load. All I would need to buy are 2 14-50 plugs and 15' or so of wire.

Bottom line for me is that in the 7 years that we lived in this house, only 1 time have have we lost power for longer than 1 hour and that was because a truck hit the pole at the end of our street. It's simply not worth installing thousands of dollars of equipment for such a rare occurrence. But I do like the fact that I could use my truck as a power bank for those rare occurrences. Is my solution to code? No. But this is an emergency solution and I know how electricity works. If I was in an area that has rolling blackouts or otherwise lost power frequently, I would invest in powerwalls, proper transfer switches, etc.

 

[Eric9610]

Interesting. I didn't realize that electrons know the gender of the plug that they are flowing through. This must be some new physics. You are exactly correct that the truck will work like a generator. Switching off your main breaker and/or pulling your meter does the same thing as a transfer switch. It's just manual instead of automatic and lacks the physical interlock. I can promise you that once your house is isolated from the grid you can plug a generator into your house using a male-male plug and it will work. The only potential issue (not knowing how the onboard inverter works) is the neutral might float so some devices won't like it but it will definitely work.

I already have 14-50 outlets in my garage for charging. The wiring is sized for 40A of continuous load. All I would need to buy are 2 14-50 plugs and 15' or so of wire.

Bottom line for me is that in the 7 years that we lived in this house, only 1 time have have we lost power for longer than 1 hour and that was because a truck hit the pole at the end of our street. It's simply not worth installing thousands of dollars of equipment for such a rare occurrence. But I do like the fact that I could use my truck as a power bank for those rare occurrences. Is my solution to code? No. But this is an emergency solution and I know how electricity works. If I was in an area that has rolling blackouts or otherwise lost power frequently, I would invest in powerwalls, proper transfer switches, etc.

I think the bigger issue your are going to have is an AMP output restriction through the onboard plug. There is a reason both Ford and Tesla will have a kit for this. Just an example the AMP needed on the Ford to power the home is 80amps. Just because it's rated for X Kwh does not mean it will have AMP throughput.

 

[ThomasD]

Some new owners.

 

[coleAK]

Interesting. I didn't realize that electrons know the gender of the plug that they are flowing through. This must be some new physics. You are exactly correct that the truck will work like a generator. Switching off your main breaker and/or pulling your meter does the same thing as a transfer switch. It's just manual instead of automatic and lacks the physical interlock. I can promise you that once your house is isolated from the grid you can plug a generator into your house using a male-male plug and it will work. The only potential issue (not knowing how the onboard inverter works) is the neutral might float so some devices won't like it but it will definitely work.

I already have 14-50 outlets in my garage for charging. The wiring is sized for 40A of continuous load. All I would need to buy are 2 14-50 plugs and 15' or so of wire.

Bottom line for me is that in the 7 years that we lived in this house, only 1 time have have we lost power for longer than 1 hour and that was because a truck hit the pole at the end of our street. It's simply not worth installing thousands of dollars of equipment for such a rare occurrence. But I do like the fact that I could use my truck as a power bank for those rare occurrences. Is my solution to code? No. But this is an emergency solution and I know how electricity works. If I was in an area that has rolling blackouts or otherwise lost power frequently, I would invest in powerwalls, proper transfer switches, etc.

It may “work” in theory. But you are suggesting plugging a 240v 40a power source into an unprotected wiring source? Pretty high risk for fire/shock. If it does work you would likely blow fuses, breakers, and GFIs. I would also say fairly high risk of damaging appliances/wire/outlets/truck. A modern home is more complex than some wire and a 9v battery. Older your home is the more likely it would work. Also most states have code banning this (back feeding). Burn your house down, hurt someone, … your insurance likely worn cover you.

So you are willing to risk life and property (and a $100k truck) over ~$1000 transfer switch?

 

[texas_star_TM3]

Some new owners.

exactly the kind of owner who'd be better served with a Minivan and who definitely will never ever off-road or do truck stuff with that thing - but has $100k+ discretionary income. Lol. I'm sure the kiddos would have a more cushy ride in an EQE SUV and it would be easier to park for mommy at Target.

 

[ThomasD]

The Mom just doesn't seem to be too keen on the Truck. It is my opinion that they won't keep it long term.

 

[jebinc]

The Mom just doesn't seem to be too keen on the Truck. It is my opinion that they won't keep it long term.

My wife wasn't either - wasn't looking forward to all the attention (negative and positive) it will bring.

 

[discodanman45]

My wife wasn't either - wasn't looking forward to all the attention (negative and positive) it will bring.

My wife is ecstatic about the Cybertruck. She gets to take over my MYP from her M3 RWD. She is already looking at license plate holders for the MY.

 

[strider]

I think the bigger issue your are going to have is an AMP output restriction through the onboard plug. There is a reason both Ford and Tesla will have a kit for this. Just an example the AMP needed on the Ford to power the home is 80amps. Just because it's rated for X Kwh does not mean it will have AMP throughput.

Volts x Amps = kW. The Ford has a 7.2kW inverter and the CT has a 9.6kW inverter built in. Therefore the Ford will provide 240V/30A and the CT will provide 240V/40A. It won't run our HVAC but we have a wood stove for the winter and a pool for the summer. Besides, HVAC would run the battery down pretty quickly. I mainly want to be able to keep the fridge/freezer going, some lights (all LEDs), charge our devices, and maybe keep the Internet up (at least as long as the head end was working). Considering how rarely we use power, the onboard inverters will work just fine with a minimum of cost.

It may “work” in theory. But you are suggesting plugging a 240v 40a power source into an unprotected wiring source? Pretty high risk for fire/shock. If it does work you would likely blow fuses, breakers, and GFIs. I would also say fairly high risk of damaging appliances/wire/outlets/truck. A modern home is more complex than some wire and a 9v battery. Older your home is the more likely it would work. Also most states have code banning this (back feeding). Burn your house down, hurt someone, … your insurance likely worn cover you.

So you are willing to risk life and property (and a $100k truck) over ~$1000 transfer switch?

What do you mean unprotected? Everything is going through breakers. I'm not putting jumper cables onto the bus bar. How is this high risk for fire/shock? Throw main breaker along with unnecessary load breakers. Plug in truck. Use electricity. I am pretty sure that the truck will report load so I can activate breakers and monitor current flow in the truck. The only thing a transfer switch gives you is a mechanical interlock so you cannot plug the generator in without first isolating the house. The wiring from the generator plug goes into a breaker in your panel, EXACTLY like the 14-50 plugs I have in my garage for charging. There is no difference in wiring between the 2 implementations. Again, the only thing that a transfer switch gives you is protection from back feeding the grid. Everything else you listed (fire, shock, blowing fuses/breakers, etc) would still happen with a transfer switch. If you're worried about someone flipping the main breaker with power applied, go pull the meter and hide it.

Just to be clear, I am not recommending this to anyone else. I understand how electricity works and I have done enough wiring over the years. I know people are scared of electricity because it is invisible and dangerous but this stuff just really isn't that hard.

 

[coleAK]

Volts x Amps = kW. The Ford has a 7.2kW inverter and the CT has a 9.6kW inverter built in. Therefore the Ford will provide 240V/30A and the CT will provide 240V/40A. It won't run our HVAC but we have a wood stove for the winter and a pool for the summer. Besides, HVAC would run the battery down pretty quickly. I mainly want to be able to keep the fridge/freezer going, some lights (all LEDs), charge our devices, and maybe keep the Internet up (at least as long as the head end was working). Considering how rarely we use power, the onboard inverters will work just fine with a minimum of cost.

What do you mean unprotected? Everything is going through breakers. I'm not putting jumper cables onto the bus bar. How is this high risk for fire/shock? Throw main breaker along with unnecessary load breakers. Plug in truck. Use electricity. I am pretty sure that the truck will report load so I can activate breakers and monitor current flow in the truck. The only thing a transfer switch gives you is a mechanical interlock so you cannot plug the generator in without first isolating the house. The wiring from the generator plug goes into a breaker in your panel, EXACTLY like the 14-50 plugs I have in my garage for charging. There is no difference in wiring between the 2 implementations. Again, the only thing that a transfer switch gives you is protection from back feeding the grid. Everything else you listed (fire, shock, blowing fuses/breakers, etc) would still happen with a transfer switch. If you're worried about someone flipping the main breaker with power applied, go pull the meter and hide it.

Just to be clear, I am not recommending this to anyone else. I understand how electricity works and I have done enough wiring over the years. I know people are scared of electricity because it is invisible and dangerous but this stuff just really isn't that hard.

Well I’m glad I don’t live next door. I guess my electrical engineering training makes me more cautious.

I’ve put on 3 of my own solar systems (camper, cabin, home) all 90% DIY, just paid an electrician to tie it in to the box on my primary home. The largest is the one on my home: 7.5 kw, hybrid inverter, battery bank, transfer switch, secondary panel.

 

[⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️]

Volts x Amps = kW. The Ford has a 7.2kW inverter and the CT has a 9.6kW inverter built in. Therefore the Ford will provide 240V/30A and the CT will provide 240V/40A. It won't run our HVAC but we have a wood stove for the winter and a pool for the summer. Besides, HVAC would run the battery down pretty quickly. I mainly want to be able to keep the fridge/freezer going, some lights (all LEDs), charge our devices, and maybe keep the Internet up (at least as long as the head end was working). Considering how rarely we use power, the onboard inverters will work just fine with a minimum of cost.

What do you mean unprotected? Everything is going through breakers. I'm not putting jumper cables onto the bus bar. How is this high risk for fire/shock? Throw main breaker along with unnecessary load breakers. Plug in truck. Use electricity. I am pretty sure that the truck will report load so I can activate breakers and monitor current flow in the truck. The only thing a transfer switch gives you is a mechanical interlock so you cannot plug the generator in without first isolating the house. The wiring from the generator plug goes into a breaker in your panel, EXACTLY like the 14-50 plugs I have in my garage for charging. There is no difference in wiring between the 2 implementations. Again, the only thing that a transfer switch gives you is protection from back feeding the grid. Everything else you listed (fire, shock, blowing fuses/breakers, etc) would still happen with a transfer switch. If you're worried about someone flipping the main breaker with power applied, go pull the meter and hide it.

Just to be clear, I am not recommending this to anyone else. I understand how electricity works and I have done enough wiring over the years. I know people are scared of electricity because it is invisible and dangerous but this stuff just really isn't that hard.

Electric HVAC? You could definitely run a gas furnace. I got rid of my generator, but the transfer switch was to code when the house was built in 2007. Alls it was, was a simple lockout device at the panel that made it so you couldn’t turn the 60 amp generating breaker on if the main was in the on position. Probably no more than a $40 part. The generator back fed into a 14-50 outlet. My power went out for a week back in 2021. I just back fed my 1000 Watt inverter into the house to power my gas fireplace blower and electronic thermostat, to stay warm. With 208 volt 40 amp from the CT I could easily heat the whole house and power my two refrigerators and freezer with plenty to spare.

 

[⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️]

It may “work” in theory. But you are suggesting plugging a 240v 40a power source into an unprotected wiring source? Pretty high risk for fire/shock. If it does work you would likely blow fuses, breakers, and GFIs. I would also say fairly high risk of damaging appliances/wire/outlets/truck. A modern home is more complex than some wire and a 9v battery. Older your home is the more likely it would work. Also most states have code banning this (back feeding). Burn your house down, hurt someone, … your insurance likely worn cover you.

So you are willing to risk life and property (and a $100k truck) over ~$1000 transfer switch?

So what in your house, that’s ran on electricity, wouldn’t work without issues if you powered it directly at the CT? Besides stuff that is above the 40 amp capacity?

 

[wws]

Electric HVAC? You could definitely run a gas furnace. I got rid of my generator, but the transfer switch was to code when the house was built in 2007. Alls it was, was a simple lockout device at the panel that made it so you couldn’t turn the 60 amp generating breaker on if the main was in the on position. Probably no more than a $40 part. The generator back fed into a 14-50 outlet. My power went out for a week back in 2021. I just back fed my 1000 Watt inverter into the house to power my gas fireplace blower and electronic thermostat, to stay warm. With 208 volt 40 amp from the CT I could easily heat the whole house and power my two refrigerators and freezer with plenty to spare.

My daughter and son-in-law bought a house a couple years ago that came with a transfer switch panel installed. Apparently about 20 years ago, the neighborhood suffered a week long power outage. So a bunch of the neighbors did a group buy on getting transfer switch panels installed in their homes. The panel has about 8 circuits that can be flipped between the main panel and generator. The generator connection is via a male NEMA L14-30 mounted under the transfer switch panel. Apparently this is a fairly common setup.

The house also came with a portable 5.5 kW generator. It needed a bunch of maintenance - which I did. To test it, I bought a L14-30 adapter for my Tesla UMC from evseadapters, and used it to charge my car for a bit. Interestingly, even though the generator was rated at 5.5 kW, I had to turn the amperage down to about 12 amps before the car would start charging.

I bought them a L14-30 extension cord - since one didn't come with the house. Off the shelf item at a local shop that sells generators and other gas-powered tools.

 

[jebinc]

Saw this on FB, and nearly pissed myself. The poster is really making a kids book!