Synthax
Member
No resistor required. Bench · Lunars/tesla WikiNo luck so far with Chassis CAN (6). Double checked that I have the polarity right, but even tried swapping CAN lines. Did you need a termination resistor across the CAN connection?
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No resistor required. Bench · Lunars/tesla WikiNo luck so far with Chassis CAN (6). Double checked that I have the polarity right, but even tried swapping CAN lines. Did you need a termination resistor across the CAN connection?
Did you use the IC from the same car as the MCU?I have an MCU1 on the bench. Powers up fine and the touch screen works. I can't get the IC to display. The IC has power, and the wake line is high. I can confirm the LEDs are lit inside the IC (red for 12v, and the 2 green ones for 5v and 3.3v). I've also got the 4-pin ethernet cable connected (the original Tesla cable) between the IC and MCU1. Any else I may be missing? MCU1 is not rooted and is running v11 software (2022.8.10.5). I have nothing else connected to MCU1 or the IC. I haven't tried the brake On Sw line (it's unconnected), but since the MCU1 display is on, assume IC should be too. Has 10 service alerts, but expected with nothing connected. None of the alerts seem to be IC-related (brakes, charging, BMS, etc.)
the "mystery button" is just a reset button, thankfully, so you're good on that front.Thanks all for your suggestions.
I bought MCU1 & IC (Gen-2 2015) as a set from one 2015 car. Still haven't figured out getting IC to display. Using power, CAN chassis 6, Wake line, and Ethernet. Tripple checked all my wiring. IC is powering up and since the IC's green LEDs light, I know the wake line is high.
Before connecting it up, I did try powering up the IC with the wake line at 12v. I also pressed the mystery button which might have been a mistake. It's only accessible when the back is off. It might do something like erasing the flash memory which would be bad. I'm just too curious!
I also have an MCU2-era 2017 wiring harness. The only thing I'm using from it is the Fakra Ethernet cable between the MCU1 and IC. I doubt the wiring changed, but I'll try and ohm it out to be sure the wiring is still correct using the MCU1 to Gen-2 IC connection.
It's also possible the IC is just defective. Both displays have lots of leakages, but that will not stop them from working.
Interesting that MCU1 can get an LTE connection without an antenna attached (one bar). I don't like that and will add a 50-ohm terminator to hopefully kill the signal.
Pretty sure i heard this from someone else as well that there's 3rd antenna in MCU not just mirrors..Interesting that MCU1 can get an LTE connection without an antenna attached (one bar). I don't like that and will add a 50-ohm terminator to hopefully kill the signal.
You must be pretty close to a tower to be getting LTE on a bare MCU. If you're worried about it, you could disconnect the LTE board while you're tinkering. (probably already too late though, its likely it has already received the fastcharge kill signal and will need to be reenabled for DC charging to work with that gateway.
Yes it has, If you power the MCU on the bench and connect a metal wire to the correct place, you will get a stronger signalPretty sure i heard this from someone else as well that there's 3rd antenna in MCU not just mirrors..
Also, quiet possible Tesla purposely did it to have access even if mirrors are disconnected.
After all, our cellphones have internal antennas too, not hard to add one to MCU..
That is a good question. I am trying to access information on Spansion and actually read its contents via the processorWhat sort of hardware are most people using for hardware access to Spansion?
Via JTAG? I’ve been working periodically on getting access to it with U-boot.That is a good question. I am trying to access information on Spansion and actually read its contents via the processor
Lets get it out of the frame. Tools needed? Torx T10 driver. 6mm socket. Deep 7mm socket.I picked up a used (S/X) MCU2 without a screen on the cheap...
Unforunately, this teardown is from an Intel model 3 so its a different board layout.Now where are those memory chips?
It's counter intuitive, but non-volatile memory actually degrades less during writes when they are hot, so actively cooling them actually is not a good thing. They do like to be stored cold, but a heat sink doesn't really help things in this regard that much for storage (given cooling system would be off when car is sleeping, so eventually everything reaches ambient anyways).Yea, memory will be close to the CPU, and if CPU is under the heatsink, so will the memory. Additionally, memory also should also have a heat sink in automotive, but I think Tesla solves this problem with cabin overheat protection. Here, for example, is a Porsche OTA module, notice how all the memory, emmc, and CPU/SoC chips sink to the heat-sink. .
View attachment 914003
The heat-sink is the entire bottom of the enclosure for the ECU:
View attachment 914004
PS> yea, I've moved on to reverse engineering Porsche, very interesting to see how other manufacturers do things as compared to Tesla.
Heatsink is not really considered active cooling. Shared heat sink heats up the EMMC to the same temperature as the rest of the chips (SoC, RAM, couple of others), so the EMMC chips warm up faster than in the Tesla but also don't reach the same highs. Additionally, I'm only starting to dig into this (just picked up my Taycan 3 weeks ago, then drove it home for 9 days to get to know it), but I don't think Porsche is writing much to the OTA module EMMC at runtime, other than during OTA.It's counter intuitive, but non-volatile memory actually degrades less during writes when they are hot, so actively cooling them actually is not a good thing. They do like to be stored cold, but a heat sink doesn't really help things in this regard that much for storage (given cooling system would be off when car is sleeping, so eventually everything reaches ambient anyways).
https://www.eeweb.com/industrial-temperature-and-nand-flash-in-ssd-products/
As such it is not recommended to heat sink the NAND flash portion (video mentions NAND flash running at 25C will have half the life of flash running at 40C), even though heat sinking the controller might make sense if it's a performance bottleneck (which they say usually it is not):
Cabin overheat AFAIK, had nothing to do with the eMMC. Instead it was to address the screens of the original Model S, which was not rated for as high a temp rating as automotive screens (so it fails after a while, the fluid/bubbling problem that affects so many Model S).
The eMMC was failing because they only had 8GB and were writing tons of useless logs to it. By the time they tried to address it, it was too late for most of them (thus the recall). There's little indication temperature had anything to do with it.
I think you need to remove heatsink to find eMMC. But i'm not sure if it is worth upgrading it. The only reason why would you upgrade would be increase in eMMC performance. For example, tesla probably uses v5.0 or even older eMMC versions, but just upgrading chip to 5.1 will should improve performance significantly.I picked up a used MCU2 without a screen on the cheap and am considering setting it up on the bench before I attempt to upgrade my MCU1. Anyone have extra connectors they'd like to sell me? I'm assuming to build a bench setup I'll need....
MINIMUM
a main touchscreen and ribbon cables
a good 12v power supply
power supply connector
MAYBE
instrument cluster screen and cable w connectors
OPTIONAL
bluetooth connector and cable
wifi connector and cable
FOR FUN
has anyone looked into upgrading the MCU2 eMMC? It is 64G right, like the factory upgraded MCU1? Basically, getting someone with a rework station to desolder and resolder new eMMC chip(s)? I am curious as to which replacement chips would work, 128G? 256G?
DIFFICULT
I'll be rooting around (pun intended) the forum to see about finding someone to root the unit and help configure it before I install it. Might need to root my 2022.8.10.11 MCU1 to pull the config file. Not sure what firmware was last on the MCU2 but at least 2020.40.102.2.
Also, I assume that if I do the MCU swap myself I might want to do the following at the same time as I believe thy require config changes:
I've followed this thread since inception but am rereading it now to refresh.
- XM FM Tuner addition (my standard audio car has no current XM and likely no antenna and antenna cabling)
- CCS upgrade
By the way, what are we calling the new iteration of MCU3/Z that has the GPU on the same PCB, MCU3.1? MCU3.5? MCUZ+?