You might also consider milk-plex. It's a lot more opaque that sanded edge plexi but the edges will be graced with really smooth light. (not source-y)
Thanks for the tip. I've ordered a sheet to experiment with.
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You might also consider milk-plex. It's a lot more opaque that sanded edge plexi but the edges will be graced with really smooth light. (not source-y)
Interesting, are you projecting the LEDs inward? From these pics, kind of looks that way.
Masterful work though. Look forward to seeing it when it's complete (even if I can't make TESLIVE).
Tonight I was able to test the two versions I've made up. The version with the mirrored Plexi appears to be the best solution. I sandwiched together two 1/8" pieces with the mirrored sides facing each other. This reflects the LED light evenly throughout the T and makes the light much brighter. I should finish this version by the weekend. As this will be shown first at TESLIVE I won't post photos of the finished version until then.
As an avid DIYer, I would be all over this.
I was wondering -- have you found an easy way to to get access to a switched power source at (or near) the nose cone? And by switched I mean on when the car is on. I'm thinking that would be the easiest as opposed to finding a circuit that is live only when the headlights are on.
Assuming all goes well with the final design, I've been investigating ways to make assembly of this easier for Model S owners with DYI skills or without enough knowledge to do this kind of thing on their own. What I've concluded is that this could be made available in a simple kit form including the Plexi Ts with the LEDs glued in place, a custom printed circuit board that would require some simple soldering on the back side of the nose cone, and the necessary leads for connections to a switched fuse and/or the headlight wiring, so the T would be switched on when the car is started or the headlights are on. The kit would also have an option for installation of the remote control mentioned in an earlier post.
The kits could easily installed by a shop or owners with the requisite skills. Basic steps would be removal of the nosecone (very easy), removal of the stock chrome T (glued in place at the factory with double sided tape, but also easy), drilling of 10 small holes in the nosecone for the LED leads, placement of the Plexi T on the nose cone and the stock chrome T on top (glued with small dabs of Goop), soldering of the LED leads to the PCB, and connection of the power leads from the fuse box or headlamps.
This would require about two hours of work at the most. Although I haven't done the calculations, the kit would be relatively inexpensive, I'm guessing $150 - $200 at the most.
Today I spent some time examining the back of the nose cone and and how it mounts to the nose of the car. The way it's set up will make the installation of the lighted T more complicated than I thought. First, there's a plastic tab with a spring clip on the back side of the nose cone right behind the vertical part of the T. The spring clip snaps into a vertical slot on the aluminum frame for the nose cone and the frame itself will be a barrier for any electronics extending in that direction. What this means is the the plastic tab will have to be removed and part of the aluminum frame behind the nose cone T cut away to provide clearance for the electronics/wiring. This should not be difficult but it will involve more work than I had first thought. And it will mean cutting away a few things that many owners would be reluctant to do, even though they won't be seen and should not effect the reliability of the nose cone attachments.
Just thought everyone should know. This will not deter me -- full speed ahead!