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Lighted Tesla T for nosecone

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Oh I didn't know you got the Reus install. What components did they use? New amp? Equalizer? Can u send me pic of the them? Curious what the specs are.

All of the above. Additional sub, replace stock sub, two amps, crossovers, etc. See this thread.

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I'd like to hear tour system this weekend if possible. I've been curious if it's worth it

I'd be happy to demo it for you. Bring some music you like on a flash drive.
 
Hopefully this diagram clarifies a bit. You should be able to use a standard automotive relay that you can find at any auto parts store. I'm pretty sure the pin numbers are standard on all of these relays.

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Installed the T tonight.. this setup did NOT work. I followed the instructions to a T (no pun).. I even switched 85 and 86 because many online resources show them differently. Let me explain what I did:
I hooked 30 up to the Oznium + Power out.
I hooked 87a up to nothing
I hooked 87 to lighted T + red wire
I hooked 85 to Tesla DRL (Orange with green stripe wire)
I hooked 86 to ground (10mm bolt)
I tried hooking up Oznium - ground out to ground.. and to 86
I tried reversing 85 and 86
I tried hooking up to 87A
I tried reversing 30 and 85
Nothing worked properly... by properly I mean: the T comes on and off with DRL, and is still able to be fully controlled by Oznium.

Any suggestions???

Right now, I just have the oznium controller hooked up to fuse 87, ad it all works fine...

I just want the T to come on and off with the car (without me having to press any buttons), and be able to control it with the Oznium controller if I wish.. is this too much to ask!?!?

HELP!
 
First, the ground for the Oznium output (white wire) must be connected to the black wire for the lighted T. I think that's why it wasn't working. But the way you have this set up even with that connection it will only light up when the headlights are on.

If you want the T to light when the car is powered on you should eliminate the headlight connection to the relay and make it instead with a switched power source. For that you'll have to tap the yellow wire with purple stripe under the driver's side kick panel, as there's no switched connection in the #2 fuse box.
 
First, the ground for the Oznium output (white wire) must be connected to the black wire for the lighted T. I think that's why it wasn't working. But the way you have this set up even with that connection it will only light up when the headlights are on.

If you want the T to light when the car is powered on you should eliminate the headlight connection to the relay and make it instead with a switched power source. For that you'll have to tap the yellow wire with purple stripe under the driver's side kick panel, as there's no switched connection in the #2 fuse box.

I will retry with the Oznium output ground to the lighted t black wire.. I didnt get that from the diagram.. only that they all needed to be grounded.

I am going to use it with the DRL .. which essentially are on whenever the car is on... even if it dims when the headlights come on... I will report back how it works.

I do think 85 and 86 are reversed in the diagram provided as 85 is black given my research online that should be ground <--is that a correct statement??
 
I will retry with the Oznium output ground to the lighted t black wire.. I didnt get that from the diagram.. only that they all needed to be grounded.

I am going to use it with the DRL .. which essentially are on whenever the car is on... even if it dims when the headlights come on... I will report back how it works.

I do think 85 and 86 are reversed in the diagram provided as 85 is black given my research online that should be ground <--is that a correct statement??

I didn't realize the Oznium has an output ground. If this is the case the artsci is right. You'll need that ground going to the T. Also, 85 and 86 should be interchangeable. If docs you've seen say to use ground on 85 then go for that. It really shouldn't matter given the way a relay works.
 
Ok...hooked it up.. works as instructed.. PROBLEM:: there is not enough power from the drl to activate the relay when the drls dim... aka when turn signal is on or when headlights come on... other thoughts to solve for this????
 
Ok...hooked it up.. works as instructed.. PROBLEM:: there is not enough power from the drl to activate the relay when the drls dim... aka when turn signal is on or when headlights come on... other thoughts to solve for this????

How much voltage comes out of the DRL when it is dimmed? We might have to try to find another relay that will activate at a lower voltage.
 
How much voltage comes out of the DRL when it is dimmed? .

Ok <--no electrical expert here...but ..
When it is just DRL = 13.5
When DRL is dimmed = .08

No typos there...

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I read in this thread: http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/13198-Switched-12v-power-line-to-tap-into?highlight=switched+12v

that you can tap into the power steering fuse.. trying to figure out which one that is and if that will work instead of the DRLs...
 
I hooked up to power steering.. fuse #75 in fuse box 3 (5a). That worked perfectly for what I want--a switched 12v power supply. Now off to buy more tap-a-fuse and solder and install more professionally that the way it is installed now (bubblegum and aluminum foil - lol)
 
I hooked mine up the same way today; oznium wired to per the instructions, with an additional relay wired to fuse #75. It seems to work perfectly. The only issue I had was that the add-a-fuse on #75 is a bit too tall for the cover. I managed to get it snapped on, but there's definitely some extra pressure there. The one other thing I noticed is that the fuse location doesn't match the diagram from the manual. The manual shows #75 on the right side, but in my fuse box it was on the left.
 
I hooked mine up the same way today; oznium wired to per the instructions, with an additional relay wired to fuse #75. It seems to work perfectly. The only issue I had was that the add-a-fuse on #75 is a bit too tall for the cover. I managed to get it snapped on, but there's definitely some extra pressure there. The one other thing I noticed is that the fuse location doesn't match the diagram from the manual. The manual shows #75 on the right side, but in my fuse box it was on the left.

Which manual were you looking at? My printed manual that came with the car never matched the fuse positions. Later manuals they put online got closer...

Also just to confirm your setup: you wired Oznium to always-on power so it remembers its state, then use a relay actuated by switched power on #75 to connect Oznium output to lighted T. Correct?
 
Which manual were you looking at? My printed manual that came with the car never matched the fuse positions. Later manuals they put online got closer...

Also just to confirm your setup: you wired Oznium to always-on power so it remembers its state, then use a relay actuated by switched power on #75 to connect Oznium output to lighted T. Correct?

I looked at the manual from teslamotors.com under my dashboard after I logged in ...

As for the hookup of the lighted T ...

Oznium go constant power as indicated in original instructions. I used the relay (as previously posted) drawing power for the switch (on 85 of the relay) from fuse #75. I agree with the previous post that the fuse is the middle 5a on the left side which is different than the manual shows, and it is too tall with the tap-a-fuse (aka add-a-circuit), but with a pressure, the cover goes back on.

How it works: Oznium control is always powered so it now remembers its last setting. The T comes on (assuming the last setting of the oznium controller was set to on) when the car is on, and turns off when the car turns off.

just what I wanted!!
 
So the one minor issue I've noticed is that if you use Homelink to turn the T on it will end up at a seemingly random brightness. I think this is because it's sort of spamming the "on" signal. I'm going to try repeated quick single clicks when programming Homelink instead of holding the button down like the car suggests. Hopefully the car detects that and sends the shorter signal instead.
 
So the one minor issue I've noticed is that if you use Homelink to turn the T on it will end up at a seemingly random brightness. I think this is because it's sort of spamming the "on" signal. I'm going to try repeated quick single clicks when programming Homelink instead of holding the button down like the car suggests. Hopefully the car detects that and sends the shorter signal instead.

I have not had this issue at all.. My setup is wired like yours, and comes on perfect and bright with homelink. You may just need to reprogram homelink.
 
The DRL's dim when the headlights are on and when the turn signals are on. They are also dim when you set the 'parking lights' on manually. As far as I can tell, the wire that artsci identified as being the headlight wire is actually the 'dim DRL signal' light because when I tap into that wire (I think it was red with white stripe), the lighted T comes on when the headlights are on as well as when the 'parking' lights are on (DRL's on, but dimmed without the headlights on). Either that or I used the wrong wire :) I actually find that the T is not too bright at night when connected to this wire and I'm happy with it.

I changed the 'leave headlights on when exiting the car' feature to ON so that I can actually admire the lighted T when I get out of the car. :)